ZS-A1, 3D Printed Symmetric Wireless Mouse Guide

This is based on the Sensei. There doesn’t seem to be a wireless one. If you’d like to try the shape first then check it out on Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/474276-test-shape-zs-a1-mouse-mod-shape-test-sensei-based

First, you'll need to know how to take apart your G305. I made a video on it some time ago, and besides the baffling choice to do it over a piece of cardboard, it mostly holds up. Take a look at it if you have never done it or need a refresher, and remember to handle the small wires carefully, they will "break" if you so much as look at them wrong.

https://youtu.be/YmcaNkwdEiI

Patience

Basic troubleshooting steps

-G305

-3D Printer or Printed pieces

-Etsy Shop for files and prints: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZoroSeerus

-Etsy shop file direct link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1463856418/zs-a1-3d-printed-symmetric-wireless

-Screwdriver

-Tape

-AAA Battery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CN7J2S3/ 

-675 Batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRWCSRS

Cables I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

Battery I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QW531W2

-There are likely multiple combinations of chargers and batteries that work. These are the ones I use. The battery matters less than the connector since they'll only vary in weight and battery life. If you get a different battery make sure it's 1.5v.

Video demonstration of rechargeability:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPNx4j_xXlk

A preamble, this is meant to be a reasonably simple print and assembly job, but of course I think that, I made it. That being said, I highly encourage you read the entire post before moving forward at all with this.

Some aspects of this design are a little stranger than they need to be. This is because I had shelved this over a year ago, but finally got back around to it. I was really into the overhang that holds the mouse buttons and back piece in place.

I have some advice for printing this below, but conversely, I’m not your print troubleshooting assistant. Don’t take it personally. That being said, if you do believe you have questions that I don’t cover specific to this set of prints in particular, shoot me a message somewhere and I’ll do my best to respond with any insight I might have.

-tldr; Refrain from questions about bed adhesion, prints being brittle, general/broad stuff, etc.

You don’t need a top of the line Voron with dialed in print and filament profiles (see below), but on the other hand some tuning certainly won’t hurt things. I’d recommend the basics of course, and if you want a resource to run through them and significantly more then I’d say to check out Ellis’s guide or Teaching Tech’s calibration site:

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/

I’ve printed my drafts and test mice with Arachne perimeter generation since it’s frequently the default now. If you have issues with them you could try classic, but I would look to the XY / hole compensation settings.

It wouldn’t necessarily change that much, but I didn’t design this to be as light as possible from the get go. As a result, I consider it between “aggressively-fine” to “a bit of a chonk” weight-wise. I expect most people to print it in PLA and use a AAA battery (rechargeable or not), but also have a battery holder for a 675 button cell battery option. I’ve also printed this in ABS which is another option to save a few grams as long as you’ve got adequate filtration. Below is a chart with all of the mass info and combinations.

Not all of my prints are perfect. Here’s an example from my Prusa Mini. The two mouse buttons printed slightly differently causing them to sit unevenly. I’ve since reprinted them. You can also sand or file down the corners if it’s obviously not flat/square in the area you screw down into place.

It’s a bit of a heartbreaker but.. I do recommend using supports. I know, I know, big sad. Of course I’ll provide some images of how I’ve sliced them along with 3MFs that have painted on supports, but the specifics of your support settings will be case-by-case. I’m partial to Snug supports with a 0.24–0.25mm top layer distance for example, but have found that Tree/Organics are also pretty useful, especially for the Bottom piece with the big middle overhang. That being said, due to.. questionable workflow.. I’ve done a ton of draft prints without any support on that part. It’s doable, but it isn’t particularly pretty. And remember ALWAYS wear eye protection when removing supports. The plastic is wild, and you never know what it’s gonna do.

The Bottom piece can benefit from printing outer walls first in order to hide the lines that show up from the internal geometry. It’s possible that the screw holes print sub-optimally with this setting though, so if you experience this check the options below for alternatives. Also, I’d move the seam to the back or paint it elsewhere as well, but this is pretty minor.

I’m posting three versions for the Bottom piece, which only differ on how the screw holes are modeled.

• S(tyle)1 — using thin bridges leading up to the holes. I’m considering this the default version. These should work fine, but If you’re skeptical use the cut tool in your slicer and test a small section first. Printing external walls first can make these print a little worse in my experience, hence multiple options.
• S(tyle)2 — sacrificial bridging version, which has a 0.2mm extrusion covering the hole. Just screw or poke through this. This is the first alternate option and I recommend it over the next option.
• S(tyle)3 — normal overhangs with a screw hole. Support these however you see fit, or gamble at seeing if they print reasonably without any (they probably won’t). The only annoyance with this is that I quite like how tree supports handle the other areas of the Bottom piece, but not so much the screw holes, hence it being the lowest of the options.

This is my first implementation of this idea, but I think it’s worked out reasonably enough. For more details and an example of this check out Maker’s Muse’s video on it:

https://youtu.be/9-6tIkTrcwA

The Back can be a more challenging to print than you’d expect since it has such little contact area with the build plate. I’d print it slowly and add a brim or at least ears on the underside of it.

Here's an example of printing too quickly even with brim ears.

Like previous designs, I’ve chosen to actuate the switches by way of screws. This helps adjust the feel for different preferences and account for small tolerance variations that can arise from printer to printer. Make sure to “tap” the screw holes. Make sure they go in straight. Don’t go crazy and severely overtighten them as you’re screwing into plastic. For the adjustable 4 start somewhere around 1/2 way screwed in and adjust to your preference.

(The Bottom piece shown here is slightly outdated. There are less columns on the final version)

For the Side Button PCB Holder use gloves or something when screwing it into the bottom. I know that probably sounds silly, but you need to push down and hold it in place once the Side Button PCB is in there, and it’s sharp. Trust me on this.

The main thing is to make sure the On / Off switch doesn’t fall off during this. They’re really finnicky. The Side Buttons should be installed, but I’ve removed them so it’s slightly easier to see.

Next prepare either holder with your battery of choice. Again, careful with the wires, they’re very fragile where the wire connects to the terminals.

The screw under the bridge is annoying to get. Technically you don’t need to use it, but I would.

Use two long screws to secure the Mouse Buttons. I designed a bit of slack into them so that you can move them slightly in all directions in case your print isn’t perfect in the squared area. If you overtighten these your mouse buttons will likely raise more than you want in the front area.

For the Back piece snap the front into place first, then align the back column before flipping it over and screw it into place.

That’s pretty much all there is to it. Toss some feet on it and get to it.

I understand that not everyone likes the texture of 3D Printed Mice, as such I’ve included grip templates so you can cut some from a roll. I would probably cut some of them down, as they’re flat projections of curved surfaces, but how much you use is all preference.

Additionally, a weirder option you can experiment with is fuzzy skin. This was just my first pass at it so it’s possible I’d take to it over time or with different settings but it doesn’t seem to be for me. I’m alright with the flat finish.

Check out Teaching Tech’s video that covers using modifiers for fuzzy skin on specific areas: https://youtu.be/o-NYbUFzxLw?t=503