You Stole My Heart Dress for Absolute Beginners

This tutorial is for complete beginners. For a condensed version, which is meant for the experienced seamstress, please go here: https://www.instructables.com/id/You-Stole-My-Heart-Dress-for-the-Experienced-Sewer/

This Instructable is very long. The reason for this is because it is very detailed, so a beginner sewer can follow along. I recommend opening this so that all steps are on one page.

This instructable shows you how to:

• Draft a basic bodice pattern
• Alter said pattern for the heart cut out
• Calculate the additional fabric needed to create box pleats
• Fold said box pleats
• Iron reams flat
• Install an invisible zipper

and a few other things.

For this dress, the only skills you need are:

• The ability to sew in a relatively straight line
• The ability to Iron things flat
• The ability to unpick stitches with a seam ripper

Terms you need to know before starting

1. Seam Allowance
2. Hem
3. Iron Seams Flat ( Also known as pressing seams open)
4. Top Stitching
5. Overlocking the edge (Also known as Overcasting the edge)
6. Unpicking the stitches

You will need:

• A T-shirt that fits you closely, but does not stretch much to accommodate your body. Make sure you like the way the armpit area fits for you! That's the most important part!
• Safety pins
• Measuring tape
• Ruler
• Pattern paper or newspaper + tape
• Pins
• Markers (multiple colors help)
• Scissors

Please look at the picture. Here is the Key:

A - Top of T-shirt collar to apex of breasts. (Usually the nipple line)

B - Breast Circumfrence (Around the fullest part of breasts)

C- Natural waist (Around the smallest part of waist)

D- Hips (Around the largest part of your hips)

Put on your T-shirt, and mark where your natural waist is with safety pins

Step A

-Pick one side to pin flat, and pin the edges of shirt down

-Fold the shirt in half, and mark the halfway point with pins, as shown

Step B

- Pin the sleeve back too

Grab a sheet of pattern paper, and create a straight line on one side, using a ruler. This will be your reference line from now on.

* we do this, because the lines on the edges of pattern paper are not always exactly straight

Step A

- Fold your shirt under, at the line for where you marked your waist

Step B

- Line up the center pins on the shirt with the line on the pattern paper

Step C

- Trace all sides of the shirt, except the bottom, where you folded

Step D

- Don't forget to trace the front neckline too!

Step A

- Mark the bottom of the shirt at the center line (Shown as X)

-Remove the shirt. See how we left the bottom blank?

Step B

- Draw a straight line where we marked the X (We only care about the center marking right now)

-Exend or shorten the side as needed

Make the lines smooth.

Here is where your measurements come in!

Take Measurement A.

-Mark where that hits on your pattern paper,

-Then draw a straight line across, toward the armpit area.

Here comes some math. Don't worry, it's pretty simple!

1) Take Measurement B, and divide it by 4. Then add 1/8. This is where you will make the bust marking

(B ÷ 4) + 0.125 = Bust marking

An example: My bust measurement is 31.5 inches., so B = 31.5

( [31.5] ÷ 4) + 0.125 = 8 inches

2) Place your bust marking onto the pattern (on the horizontal line you just created)

** adding the 1/8 inch to your measurement adds a total of 1/2 inch of extra space, to allow for breathing room!**

Repeat the previous step, except using measurement C

1) Take Measurement C, and divide it by 4. Then add 1/8. This is where you will make the waist marking

(C ÷ 4) + 0.125 = Waist Marking

An example: My waist measurement is 27 inches., so C = 27

( [27] ÷ 4) + 0.125 = 6.875 inches

2) Place your waist marking onto the pattern (on the horizontal bottom line)

** adding the 1/8 inch to your measurement adds a total of 1/2 inch of extra space, to allow for breathing room!**

Draw a smooth line, connecting the Bust and waist markings

Extend the armpit area as needed

I wanted to make the neckline larger, so I expanded it by 1 inch. (Shown in purple)

-If you choose to do this too, don't forget to adjust the back neckline too!

Step A

- Add seam allowance. I prefer 5/8 inch seam allowance, but do whatever you are comfortable with!

Step B

-Cut out along seam allowance lines

Step A

- Grab a fresh sheet of pattern paper

-Draw a straight line on one side (Again, this will be your reference line)

Step B

-Line up the pattern piece you just created with the reference line

Step A

-Trace around the pattern piece

Step B

- Cut out

-Label it

Now you have the Back Bodice Piece! Do not forget to label it.

Step A

-Grab that original pattern you created

Step B

- Cut out the front neckline, on the seam allowance

Now you have the Front bodice! Woohoo!! Again, Do not forget to label it.

1) Measure the armpit area

2) Multiply it by 2

3) Add 4 inches

Example:

1) Armpit area = 8 inches

2) 8 X 2 = 16 inches

3) 16 + 4 = 20 inches is my measurement

NEXT:

make a rectangle of [measurement X 3.25 inches]

Example: my measurement is 20 inches

I will make a rectangle of 20 X 3.25 inches

Step A

- Take the Back Bodice piece

- Re-draw the seam allowances

Step B, C, D

- Measure the space that you will be able to use for the heart

Step A

- Draw out half a heart, keeping in mind the measurements you took

Step B

- Test heart out, to ensure you like the way it looks

This is trial and error. Keep re-drawing until you get a heart you like!

Step A

- Position heart on the bodice piece in a way you like it

- Make sure to line up the edges

Step B

- Trace it

Step A

- Add the seam allowance to the inside of the heart (Shown in purple)

Step B

- Cut it out!

Step A

- Get a new piece of paper

- Lay the pattern piece on top

Step B

-Trace it, and extend the bottom most line further to the right

Extend the Heart's point down to the waistline

Add seam allowance to the upper portion of the bodice piece, as shown.

Cut out the pattern! This is your Official Bodice Back. Label it, and write down that you will need to cut 4 of them!

Here comes some more math! This math is a little tricky, but you can do it!

I am doing 3 inch box pleats

How to calculate how much to add for your box pleats

1) Width of pleat X 2 = How much fabric to add for every 1 pleat

2) Added Pleat fabric X # of pleats you want = how much extra you will add to waist measurement

Example: My Pleats will be 3 inches in width, with 6 pleats over all

1) [3] X 2 = 6 inches

2) [6 inches] X [6] = 36 inches I will add 36 inches over all, to accommodate for the pleats

Now what?

Take your waist measurement, and add the extra amount needed to create pleats

Example: My waist is 27 inches, I need to add 36 inches, to accommodate my box pleats

27 + 36 = 63 inches The width I will need to make the skirt is 63 inches wide

Now, add your seam allowance

Take the width you just calculated, and add seam allowances X 2

Example: I use 5/8 inch seam allowance, and my skirt width before adding seam allowance is 63 inches

( [5/8] X 2) + [63] = 64.25 My over all skirt width, including seam allowance, will be 64.25 inches!

Please see picture

Calculating the over all skirt length

-Measure the length you want your skirt, starting from the natural waist

- Figure out how large you want the hem to be

(Hem X 2) + Skirt length + Seam allowance

Example: I want my skirt to be 22 inches long, with a 1 inch hem, and my seam allowance is 5/8 inch

([1 inch] X 2) + [22 inch] + [0.625 inch] = 24 and 5/8 inches long!

I am multiplying the hem length by 2, because we will be doing a double fold hem.

So, I will be cutting my skirt out as a 64.25 inch X 24 and 5/8 inch rectangle!

Bodice front = Cut 2 on fold

Bodice back = Cut 4

Not shown:

- Skirt rectangle piece = cut 1

- Sleeve Rectangle Piece = cut 2

Alright! We are finally finished with drafting the pattern! Now lets get to sewing!

Supplies needed to sew the dress are:

• Non-stretch, medium weight fabric
• Invisible zipper
• Shank buttons (The buttons with the nubs, instead of holes)
• Trimming
• Pins
• Thread
• Fabric Scissors
• Chalk

Not shown, but still needed:

• Hand sewing needles
• Ruler
• Sewing machine
• The pattern pieces you created
• Iron
• Zipper Foot

Step A

- Draw out the skirt rectangle

Step B

- Cut it out

Step A

- Trace 2 front bodice pieces on fold. This means fold your fabric so that the nice side is on the inside. Then, line up the edge of the pattern piece with the fold on the fabric.

Step B

- Cut them out. When you do, cut through both layers of fabric at once!

Step C

- This is what each piece should look like afterwards

Step A

- Fold the fabric, so that the right sides are facing each other

- Trace the back bodice piece twice

Step B

-Cut them out. Cut through both layers of fabric!

Now you should have 4 back bodice pieces

1) Fold the fabric so it is doubled

2) Draw out your Sleeve Rectangle

3) Cut it out, cutting through both layers of fabric. You are not cutting on the fold

Zigzag the edges of ALL the Pieces you have cut out.

This prevents the fabric from fraying. If you do not finish the edges somehow, your dress will fall apart

1) Grab 2 back bodice pieces, and line them up with right sides together

2) Sew the Collar and the heart- line together (Shown in white)

3) Baste from the collar down to the heart (Shown in blue)

NOTES:

- Do not sew the shoulders. I realize in my photo that the shoulders are sewn, but Do not sew the shoulders. It was a mistake

- How to baste: Turn your stitches to the longest setting possible, and sew along! Don't forget to set the length back to normal after, though

1) Grab 2 back bodice pieces, and line them up with right sides together

2) Sew the Collar, down to the heart, and the heart- line together (Shown in white). NO basting on this one

NOTES:

- Do not sew the shoulders. I realize in my photo that the shoulders are sewn, but Do not sew the shoulders. It was a mistake

Now, both the sides are sewn! (Again, The shoulders should not be sewn!)

-Note the difference between a normal stitch VS a Basting stitch

Clip the curves of:

• The neckline
• The heart

When you don't clip curves, it creates really bad puckering, because the fabric cannot bend right. Clipping the curves prevents puckering

Step A

-Fold both sides right side out

- Be sure to poke the corners out really well

Step B

- Iron both sides flat

Step A

- Cut out 4 rectangles, with dimensions of 0.5 X 3 inches

Step B

- Fold the strips in half, and sew.

- Zigzag the edges too

Step C

- Flip the tubes inside out, and Iron

Step A

- Seam rip the basting stitches you made

Step B

- Fold the button strip over, so it looks like the breast cancer symbol

Step A

- Pin it in the place you like

Step B

- Make sure your buttons will fit through it

Step A

- Cut the end to make it straight

Step B

- Zigzag the end, to prevent fraying

Step A

- Repeat steps 42- 44 for the remaining loops

- Pin all the loops in place, making sure the loops are straight, and they are equidistant to each other

Step B

- Sew a line to secure them

Top stitch around the heart

Top stitch around the other half of the heart, so that it mirrors the left side.

Step A

- Mark where to place the buttons

Step B

- Sew the buttons on where you made the markings

Now, Iron everything flat again.

Overlock the edges so that both the pieces of fabric are sewn together. This way, we can now treat the back bodice piece as one single piece.

Step A

- Take the two front bodice pieces and line the neckline together

- Sew along the neckline

Step B

- Clip the curve

Iron flat again

Overlock the edges together. We will now consider it to be one piece.

Pin down the heart's point, to keep it stable

1) Line up the two torso pieces, right sides together.

2) Sew with a normal stitch where the white lines are

3) Sew with a basting stitch where the blue line is

Look at the pictures. When I say Iron the seams flat, I mean Iron the open, so they lay flat with he rest of the garment.

This is what it looks like once you iron the seams flat. Ironing the seams flat makes the seams less bulky.

Unpin the bottom of the heart, and slip your arms through the armholes. Make them larger if need be, and redo the zigzag on the edges. Then, re-pin the heart's point back together.

Take out the rectangles you cut out earlier. (The ones where you had to measure the armpit of the pattern)

Iron the rectangles in half longways

Step A

- Lay the bodice piece right side out

- Pin the rectangle along the outside of the bodice piece arm hole

- Make sure to leave at least a 1 inch flap on each end

Step B

- Make sure The edges are lined up

1) Sew the two flappy bits together

2) Trim edges

3) Over lock the edges

Clip the curve of the armpit

Now, repeat steps 61- 63 for the other side and Iron

Tack down the heart's bottom point. Now you can remove the pins.

Take your seam ripper and remove the basting stitches

The next 11 steps will show you how

Step A

Mark the pleat length (Mine is 3 inches) and mark the halfway point

Step B

Place a pin in point 1

Step C

Fold fabric over to the right

Step D

Place a pin at marking 2

Step E

fold fabric to the left

Step F

Pin it down securely

Step G

place a pin at marking 3

Step H

fold fabric to the left

Step I

place another pin at marking 2

Step J

fold fabric to the right

Step K

pin it down securely, and you're finished with one pleat!

Step A

- Grab the torso, and have it right side out

Step B

- Pin The skirt onto the torso, right sides together, making sure both sides of the skirt are even.

Step A

-Mark a line on the skirt, so it is even with the seam allowance on the torso

- Cut the skirt along that line, and re do the zigzag stitch, so the fabric doesn't fray

Step B

- Iron the seam flat

Mark the seam allowance on the right side, going down about 18 inches

Step A

Do you notice how the zipper teeth are folded, and how you can bend them so they face the other side? We want to Iron the zipper so that the zipper faces the other side.

I have found a great video. This is the video I learned from. You do not need a special invisible zipper foot to sew this type of zipper, Here is this woman's video. It really is fantastic!

Step A

-Line up the bottom of the zipper teeth with the line you drew on your dress

Step B

- Pin the zipper all the way down

Step A

- Sew right inside the crease on the zipper. The crease is right next to the zipper teeth

Step B

- Stop sewing when you get to the zipper stop

Now, Repeat steps for the other side of the zipper

Now, starting from where you left off at the zipper area, sew down to the bottom of the skirt. Make sure there are no gaps in the seam between the zipper, and the rest of the skirt

Iron the seam flat

Hem the skirt!

Sew the trim onto the arm holes and the waistline.

Congratulations!! Your Dress is now finished!!

How to put on dress:

1) Undo back buttons

2) Unzip the zipper

3) Slip the dress over your head

4) Redo the buttons before you zip up

5) Zip up your beautiful dress

Please link to pictures of your dress in the comments. I love to see people's creations.

Have any questions? Comment them, and I will respond as soon as I can!