Wooden Spatula

This spatula is a great intermediate woodworking project! Completely food-safe and makes a wonderful gift or unique kitchen piece.

• European beech, 2" x 3" x 15"
• Polystyrene foam (optional)
• double sided tape
• band saw
• table saw
• drill press (optional)
• sander
• rasp
• files
• 80, 150, 220 sandpaper

Begin by sketching various spatula designs. Consider what is important to have an ergonomic handle? Easy use? Be sure to include a handle angled up from the flat end of the spatula, so that it can dip into a pan easily. If you have access to a drill press, consider adding a hole in the handle so that it can be hung.

When you know how you want your spatula to look, sketch it to scale. Make sure to have clearly defined both your top and side view. It can be helpful to first outline two boxes the size of your piece of wood from the top and the side (I suggest 2" x 3" x 15"), and then sketch your spatula inside it. Once you have the sketch, cut out the two views.

Optional: if you are new to woodworking, it might be helpful to first make a foam model of your spatula, to get an idea of the process of cutting it. Using your two orthographic cut outs, trace each view onto the corresponding sides of a foam block the same size as your wood. If you choose to skip this step, continue on with steps 4-8, using wood instead of foam.

On a bandsaw, cut the rough silhouette of your spatula top view. Saving the cut-offs, use double-sided tape to reattach them to your spatula form, and flip to the side view. With the cut-offs secure, you can easily clamp down the block and cut the silhouette of the side view as well. Save all cut-offs.

If you choose to include a hole for hanging, first clamp your piece, with cutoffs attached for security, to the table of a drill press. Attach the correct drill bit for the size of your hole, align your piece, and drill carefully.

On a belt sander or circle sander, begin to refine your piece. At this stage, cut-offs can be discarded.

When your spatula is the right shape, but not fully smoothed out, move to finer tools. A rough rasp is a good place to start. Then, files of a few different sizes will help refine your piece, and 80, 150, and 220 sandpaper will get it to a finished smoothness.

It's time for your spatula to get a food-grade finish! This step is only applicable to wood; if you are working with foam, you can now trace your orthographics onto wood and get started on your final piece. I prefer to use mineral oil with some beeswax added, but any food-grade finish will do. Make sure to do 2-3 coats, letting each coat dry in between.