Wooden Ring With Veneer Core

I started off learning how to make wooden rings, like many others, by trying to learn the art of bentwood rings using veneer. In the process, I discovered that on the whole, I preferred working with solid wood blanks and adding a veneer core for additional strength, and as a way to compliment the aesthetic of the overall look.

In this instructable, I will show you my typical approach for making a lathe-turned wooden ring and adding a veneer core. NOTE: I'm only adding the basics in terms of working with veneer. For in-depth instructions, there are some super useful videos on Instructables, like this one.

Note: for this instructable, I assume that you are familiar with using a lathe and other power tools noted. I will, however, list some alternative tools that can be used in some instances (see the 'Supplies' section), e.g., using a Dremel or drill press as an alternative to a lathe.

Please follow your normal safety measures. Always safety in the workshop!

• Your choice of wood to use as a ring blank. I typically used a 4 x 4 x 2 cm square.
• Your choice of veneer. Note that thick veneer is typically more difficult to roll without it cracking.
• Cyanoacrylate (thin/easily spreadable superglue)
• Raw linseed oil/mineral oil
• Beeswax
  
  Tools
• Lathe (alternatively, a Dremel or drill press)
• Drill press (alt., Dremel)
• Scroll saw (alt. hand saw)

For this ring, I used a piece of swamp kauri (4 x 4 x 2 cm). Once you have cut the blank (I used a scroll saw, but a sharp hand saw will also work just fine), mark the center and drill a hole in the middle. The size of the hole will depend on the final size you want the ring to be. I used a size 20 spade bit, which is a rather large hole, but remember that you will be adding the veneer core, which will make the hole-size smaller but also allow you to finesse the final size using sandpaper. Consider the thickness of your veneer before drilling the hole and to what degree it may affect your final ring size.

Now it's time to put your blank on the lathe to turn the basic ring shape. Don't turn the ring all the way down to its intended final size. Simply turn the blank until you have a perfectly rounded shape. The reason for doing this is because you want to have a sturdy blank to work with when you put in the veneer core. If the ring is too thin, you may end up cracking it during this stage.

Once you've finished turning the blank, remove it from the lathe. IMPORTANT: small pieces turned on a lathe can get very hot. You can avoid this to some degree by making sure your lathe chisels are sharp-sharp. I typically give my blanks at least 30 minutes to cool down before starting the veneer core insertion process. It's pretty annoying when you accidentally add too much pressure gluing the veneer and the ring blank cracks. Gutted.

Cut a small strip of veneer, a bit wider than what you want your final ring to be, about 15 cm in length. If you are new to using veneer, longer/additional strips can be useful if the first (second, third, fourth) attempt fails. For this ring, I used veneer from another New Zealand native called rimu.

You want to soften the veneer before forming it, otherwise it will peel apart/crack. To do so, I boil water in the kettle and add my veneer and boiled water (completely covering the veneer) in a microwave-safe container. I then put the lid on the container leaving some open cracks for steam to escape and chuck it in the microwave on high for 4 minutes. NOTE: you are going to need a former (dowel, socket, anything round) to immediately roll the veneer when it comes out of the microwave so have this ready!

Be careful when you take the container out of the microwave because the water/steam will be HOT! Use a pair of tongs to remove the veneer, immediately take your former and start rolling the veneer around it. I used a custom dowel turned out of ash for this purpose, but you can use a multitude of objects, even a pen. TIP: when you roll the veneer, try to support the end of it using your thumbs; this will help to avoid it from cracking/splitting. Once you have rolled the veneer around your former, carefully slip the ring blank over it. You can now carefully mold the veneer inside the ring blank so that it sits snugly against in the inner circumference. Leave the ring core to dry.

Note: if you find you are having trouble fitting the entire piece of veneer you cut inside the ring blank, cut a piece off to help make it fit but make sure you have enough to cover the entire inside diameter of the ring blank.

Once the veneer has dried, carefully remove it from the ring blank. Coat the inside of the ring blank with a thin layer of superglue and, using your former/fingers, secure the core to the inside diameter of the ring blank. Be patient here; you want to avoid leaving gaps between the veneer and the inside of the ring blank. Don't use too much superglue, either, because it will bleed through the veneer and onto your fingers and create the potential for a piece of veneer to get stuck to them, which will likely tear if you try to pull your fingers off. It may also bleed onto your former and cause the ring to get stuck on it. Ask me how I know. Once you are happy with the veneer being set snug inside the ring blank, take it off the former and let it dry properly. Don't leave it on the former; it may get stuck!

Once the superglue is dry, put the ring blank back on the lathe and begin turning it down to size. Don't turn it down to the final size yet, but you want to get close to what 'final size' might be for you. Once you've done so, you can start fine tuning the final size using sandpaper.

Because my lathe requires a manual pulley-system switch for different speeds, I take the ring off the lathe here and put it on the drill press. You want to go at a slower speed in this phase, working through a range of grits, which at a higher speed will leave scratch marks in the wood. I usually work through the following grits: 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, and 600.

Once you have the ring down to the desired width, also sand down the veneer core to where you want it, texture/size wise. Depending on the type of veneer, this is usually 220/320 for me. Now that your basic ring is essentially done, take a small paintbrush/toothbrush/microfibre cloth, wet the ring, and clean off any dust/microparticles. NOTE: again, let the ring cool before doing this. Depending on the amount of sanding you did, the ring may be warm/hot, and adding cold water could cause a crack. Let the ring dry.

Once the ring is dry, it's time to oil that baby and watch those colors pop! I typically use raw linseed oil but mineral oil also works. Soak/cover the entire ring in oil and let it rest overnight, allowing the oil to permeate the wood. The next morning, when most of the oil has soaked into the wood, use a soft cloth to wipe away any remaining oil.

Next, we are going to seal the ring. This process is done on the lathe. Because I use cyanoacrylate/superglue to do this, I typically do the outside of the ring first because I don't want to risk getting it stuck on the lathe dowel.

Put the ring on the lathe and using a slow speed (or you risk getting superglue thrown back at you), add the glue in thin layers using a paper towel (the stuff you use in the kitchen to clean up spills). After about ten layers, I let it all dry. Then I take a 600/800 grit sandpaper and hand polish the layers until no dips/streaks are left. NOTE: do not wet polish until the glue is entirely dry. When cyanoacrylate meets water it will turn white and that stuff is nigh impossible to get rid of.

Once you have a smooth and shiny surface, put the ring back on the lathe and repeat the above process with ten more layers. Following on, and making sure the outside coatings are dry, now also do the inside of the ring using the same layering process as above but apply the glue using a paper towel by hand. Be careful not to use too much glue or, you guessed it, fingers may get stuck. For the inside of the ring, I typically use no more that three coats of glue, and keep each coat as thin as possible.

Note: for the final polish (by hand, for the inside and outside of the ring), I use a micro mesh pad (1500 grit).

Once you have polished the glue layers down, put the ring back on the lathe (making sure the glue inside is dry!). To give it a final polish, I use my own blend made of organic beeswax and raw linseed oil. Any good beeswax polish should do the trick. You can also use jeweller's paste. Set your lathe to its lowest speed (or chuck the ring back on the drill press). NOTE: keep the cloth well clear of any spinning parts if you are using a lathe, or any other tool with rotating parts.

Put a small amount of beeswax polish on a soft cloth and hold it lightly against the ring. Let the lathe/drill press do the effort. Once the ring is up to a nice sheen, let it sit for a few minutes. Use a clean piece of cloth to remove any excess polish.

Voila. Your ring is finished!

Using a solid piece of wood to make a sturdy ring can definitely be a bit of a tedious process, especially if you are making it for the first few times. Once you get used to it, however, it can be something that you integrate with other projects because you can do steps and leave it (as when oiling overnight or leaving it to cool down between steps to avoid cracking) while working on other things. I'm all about multitasking so that works really well for me. The other advantage is that using a solid piece of wood allows you a lot more variety, such as the swamp kauri I used for this ring. I also really enjoy the process of watching the wood change from the raw blank to the finished ring because I'm a wood nut.

I hope this instructable has helped you if you've ever wanted to make your own ring, or a ring for someone else. Happy creating, and stay safe.