Wood Mallet With Copper Inlays

This is how I make custom mallets. These mallets included dyed handles and copper inlay. You can choose not to dye the handles and substitute the copper for wood. This mallet design is very comfy and looks amazing. You can make them from nice exotic woods or use a more tame looking domestic. Either way these are a great way to expand your skills while building something you can use in your shop everyday and be proud to show off to your friends.

3x15x1 inch piece of wood for the head. 1.5x12x1 inch piece for the handle. Glue and any finish will do but I use a low maintenance oil that is easy to reapply when needed.

Draw and cut your handle to shape on your bandsaw. I have a template to keep all of mine consistent but you can trace a handle you like or draw one based on a hatchet or hammer you like. I cut close to the line and then I use double sided tape and adhere the template to the wood blank. I then take it to the router table where I have a template bit. A template bit will have a bearing that will ride against the template while the cutter matches the edge of the bearing and cuts the piece to the same shape as the template. Next I change the bit in the router table to a 1.25 inch roundover. I route the edge in a couple passes so not to overload the router and to reduce burning. This will make the handle very comfy in the hand. Last step is to layout the kerfs for the wedges. I layout a line 1/8 in from the side of the tenon and about 1/4 inch from the shoulders. I will drill a 1/4 inch hold at the inner corner of the those intersecting lines and then cut the kerf on the bandsaw.

The dying process is a little different than just staining. I mix my own dye with water or alcohol. Either works but the alcohol dries very fast. I dye the handle and let it dry. I then sand with 320 to knock back the dye but it leaves the deeper penetrating dye dark. This is really easy to see on figured woods like curly maple. I then put another light coat on to darken. You can do layers of dye with this process. I then put 3-4 coats of shellac on the handle to seal it in.

Making the heads is pretty simple. I cut two peices to 5 inches by 3 inches. The inner pieces I cut a 1/8 inch to 0 taper in them to create a tapered mortise. Make sure the thicker ends match up at the bottom. I will glue the middle pieces to the first outside piece and use the handle to establish my spacing. Make sure the lower portion fit snug to the handle tenon. Then glue the other outside piece to the top of the stack. Be careful that the pieces don't slide while clamping. I hace used salt to keep the pieces from sliding with really good results. Clamp it up and leave overnight. Once dry you can cut off the excess on the ends with the bandsaw and sand them smooth.

I was able to source copper strips that were exactly 1/8 inch or .125 inches. My saw blade is exactly .126 inches which is enough room for some epoxy. This step can be substituted with wood instead of copper. Simply mill strips down to .125 inches. I cut the kerfs on the table saw 5/8 inches deep. This isn't crucial but you want to make sure it's the same all around. I line up the blade of the saw with the glue seems. This kind of keeps you from looking at the seems and focus on the inlays. The copper is a softer metal and can be cut with a hacksaw or even a woodworking bandsaw with a metal cutting blade installed. Once the copper is cut to length and the kerfs are cut I used 2 part epoxy to glue them in. I glue the 2 longer pieces in and then cut the shorter pieces to length and glue them in. I used green painters tape to hold them in place and it worked perfectly. Once dry I take them to the disc sander to sand the copper flush to the face. Take your time. It can get hot.

Now that the head is assemble and the inlays are glued in and dry. I draw and arch on the faces. I come back about 1/4-3/8 of an inch at the sides and create an arch with a thin strip of wood. Again this isn't crucial as long as it is consistent. I cut to the line on the bandsaw and then use my disc sander to smooth the face. The next step sounds sketchy but carbide WILL cut soft metals like copper and brass. I use the same roundover bit from the handle round over every side except the left and right sides of the face. I did not feel the router struggle through the metal at all. Once the edges are routed sand through the grits, 120, 220, 320 and 400.

The wedges can be cut on the bandsaw pretty easily. I use wood from the handle or head since it is milled to the same thickness. The wedges should be shorter than the height of the head which is 3 inches on these. I add glue to both sides of the tenon while inserted into the head and then add glue into the kerfs where the wedges will go. I add a little glue to the wedges and insert them into the kerfs. I then hammer them home paying close attention the the mallet head and handle making sure it stays seated right against the shoulders. Hammer the wedges at the same rate so they go in evenly. Let it dry overnight and the use a flush cut saw and trim the wedges and any excess off. finish sanding anything you haven't sanded yet and sand the top where you cut the wedges off.

For the finish I used shellac since these woods are known to be oily. For most other woods I would use an oil finish that is easy to apply. Buff any excess oil off and you're done. Now you have a beautiful mallet that you can use in your shop and brag to everyone that you made your very own mallet.