Wireless XTRFY M42 Mod (G305)

These are the orientations that I print the pieces in. Remember to use supports on the rechargeable battery holder. Typically I use eSun PLA+ so I don't know about other filament types.

I've printed this on an Ender 3, Prusa Mini, and Artillery Genius. I print with pretty close to the supplied 0.2mm Standard profiles so I'm not going to post my full profiles, but I would enable "print thin walls".

You need to cut the front screw holes so I would work under the assumption that this is not reversible unless you keep it together a new way once they're cut.

Supplies: Patience

Basic troubleshooting steps

-XTRFY M42

-G305

-3D Printer or Printed pieces

-STL Files Link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/986506880/xtrfy-m42-w...

-Etsy Shop for prints: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZoroSeerus

-Screwdriver

-Flush cutters / cutting instrument

-Tape

-AAA Battery

Cables I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

Battery I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

-There are likely multiple combinations of chargers and batteries that work. These are the ones I use. The battery matters less than the connector since they'll only vary in weight and battery life. If you get a different battery make sure it's 1.5v. Video demonstration of rechargeability:

There are a lot of cuts to be made. Do it and look at the images. My advice is to cut less and test the fit and use trial and error.

Be very careful. Wear eye protection. I use flush cutters but I'm sure there are more effective methods.

Be careful with the ends of the battery wires. You can tear them off in which case you'll have to resolder the connection. You'll note I tore the connection and had to resolder at the end of the red wire, hence why it's so short.

If you're using the rechargeable battery then plug in the magnetic micro-usb charging tip. Orientation for the battery and their holders are shown in the photos. Unplug everything and put the battery into position. I haven't had any issues with it moving around but feel free to use some tape to 100% secure it down.

The screwholes for the stock bottom plate are pictured here. You'll need to peel off the feet to get at 'em.

Put the PCB in the printed plate. Make sure your On/Off Switch doesn't fall off. Do the three PCB screws in the Middle Left, Right, and Back.

Cut the pins off the bottom. The flatter this bottom is the better. You'll note mine still isn't totally flat since the solder under the wires still persists. You can try to sand it down or something but this worked fine for me.

Slide the side buttons switches down and into place.

Screw the M1/2 switches in. Don't overtighten it. Look at it from the side and make sure it's as flat as you can make it.

Slide down the side buttons and screw them in.

Make sure the side buttons don't move out of place while putting it together. Recall you cut some of their support so they're a little loose until the top and bottom are fully connected.

Slide the front down in it's slot. Mine sort of clicks so I assume yours will to.

I need to push in the left side (to the right) to get it into place. Then after that I push the right side out a bit too, almost as if you're stretching it over the right mouse switch and area. It sounds strange, but play around with it and I think you'll get what I mean.

Do the two long screws now. Like all of the others, don't overtighten them.

You'll need to pop off the back to charge it. I tried many orientations, but couldn't get the battery to fit inside and be chargeable from the bottom like usual. It's a bit annoying, but the backs all pop off quite easily and I've included a minor dip in the back you should be able to put your nail or something in to pop them off with little effort.

Just remember the charger is magnetic so make sure it doesn't try to yoink your battery when you remove it!