Wireless Vaxee Outset AX Mod (G305)

These are the orientations that I print the pieces in. Remember to use supports on the rechargeable battery holder but keep them from inside it. Play around with it in your slicer. I'll have a section about the scroll wheel later as it's quite particular. Typically I use eSun PLA+ so I don't know about other filament types.

I've printed this on an Ender 3, Prusa Mini, and Artillery Genius. I print with pretty close to the supplied 0.2mm Standard profiles so I'm not going to post my full profiles, but I would enable "print thin walls". You need to cut plenty so I would work under the assumption that this is not reversible unless you keep it together a new way once they're cut.

I am including STEPs and F3Ds for all of the pieces beside the Baseplate. This is so you can easily subtract small amounts (0.1-0.2mm) for better fits as needed for any variation from printer to printer. Here's a video illustrating these edits:

Supplies: Patience

Basic troubleshooting skills

-Outset

-G305

-3D Printer or Printed pieces

-STL Files Link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1068481609/wireless-v...

-Etsy Shop for prints: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZoroSeerus

-Screwdriver

-Flush cutters / cutting instrument

-Tape

-AAA Battery

-Deburring tool is useful but not completely necessary

Cables I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

Battery I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

-There are likely multiple combinations of chargers and batteries that work. These are the ones I use. The battery matters less than the connector since they'll only vary in weight and battery life. If you get a different battery make sure it's 1.5v. Video demonstration of rechargeability:

The cuts are highlighted. I mostly just used flush cutters. Wear eye protection. It can be helpful to thin the front a bit as the fit is quite tight. I don't have a dremel, so I didn't do that.

This is basically the same as my NP01s scroll wheel. I've re-sized it for the Outset but the idea is the same. As a reminder, this printed wheel is very finicky and your mileage may vary. Use the G305 one if you don't want to bother. You'll need to sand the area surrounding the scroll wheel if you do so or it rubs slightly.

If you use the G305 wheel you'll have to sand or use a deburring tool because it'll rub the sides.

This mod requires soldering. You'll need to put on a 13mm encoder. I usually try to make these work with no soldering, but the scroll wheel is completely untenable at the stock height. I am not experienced enough to detail the steps to do so. My assumption is anyone that actually wants to go forth with this and is comfortable soldering on a new encoder will already know how to do so. I typically go to mouseclub.co for components. You don't have to of course, but if you do, you can use the code "zoro" for 10% off your order https://mouseclub.co/collections/encoders

I print it in two parts to avoid any supports. You just slide the second end in and twist to lock it in place. Generally these small, detailed prints are a bit annoying with a stock 0.4mm nozzle on FDM printers, so here are the alterations I made to my print profile to make it work for me. You will likely need to experiment with your settings, and I can't offer you much advice so please if you're having issues do some research as to what people with your printer might do. The provided profile is from my Prusa Mini, so it's an example of how I approach this print on a Bowden setup as I expect it'll be a bit easier with a direct drive setup.

Once printed, slot the second piece in and twist it in place so that it doesn't move. There is now a third piece that sits in the right wheel well to reach the scroll click button since we've soldered on a taller encoder.

Be careful with the ends of the battery wires. You can tear them off in which case you'll have to resolder the connection.

If you're using the rechargeable battery then plug in the magnetic micro-usb charging tip. Orientation for the battery and their holders are shown in the photos. Unplug everything and put the battery into position. I haven't had any issues with it moving around but feel free to use some tape to 100% secure it down. I have an updated version of this now which uses 3 of the PCB screws to hold the pieces together..

Put the clips into their places. They can rotate initially. Put the top on the baseplate and rotate the clips into place. Screw them down once you have.

For the top piece that holds the switches lineup the two screw posts and use PCB screws to secure it. Use the same screws for the mouse buttons.

There are four screw holes for the PCB to start. Use PCB screws for them.

Put each scroll's respective piece on before the mouse switch holders.

Screw in the switch holders next.

Angle the front down at the front and raised at the back. Push down at the front, then pull back, and finally push down at the back. You may need to shimmy it side to side. The fit is tight, but manageable. Play with it. Flip it over and do the three holes using the pictured screws.