Wireless Glorious Model D Mod (G305)

by ZoroSeerus in Circuits > Electronics

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Wireless Glorious Model D Mod (G305)

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These are the orientations that I print the pieces in. Use supports on the front clips for the baseplate. I don't use supports with the battery holder, a brim can be helpful given the small contact area with the build plate. Typically I use eSun PLA+ so I don't know about other filament types.

I've printed this on an Ender 3, Prusa Mini, and Artillery Genius. I print with pretty close to the supplied 0.2mm Standard profiles so I'm not going to post my full profiles, but I would enable "print thin walls".

You will need to make plenty of cuts on the top shell. It could be reversible, but I wouldn't go into it with the assumption that you can. The DPI button will not work.

I've added aluminum tape to the side buttons on mine to make the click feel better. The side buttons are nothing to brag about but passable. If pre-travel on your side buttons bothers you immensely then this mod isn't for you or you'll have to take further steps to address it.

This mod requires soldering. You will need to put replace the stock G305 encoder with a 13mm tall one. I am not experienced enough to provide solid instructions on this. I'd recommend checking out YouTube. Here's a video from ents on how to:

Supplies

Supplies: Patience

Basic troubleshooting steps

-Glorious Model D

-G305

-3D Printer or Printed pieces

-STL Files Link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1014677990/glorious-m...

-Etsy Shop for prints: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZoroSeerus

-Screwdriver

-Flush cutters / cutting instrument

-Tape

-AAA Battery

-13mm Encoder

Cables I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

Battery I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

-There are likely multiple combinations of chargers and batteries that work. These are the ones I use. The battery matters less than the connector since they'll only vary in weight and battery life. If you get a different battery make sure it's 1.5v. Video demonstration of rechargeability:

Necessary Cuts

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There are a lot of cuts to be made. Do it and look at the images. My advice is to cut less and test the fit and use trial and error.

Be very careful. Wear eye protection. I use flush cutters but I'm sure there are more effective methods.

Setting Up the Battery

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Be careful with the ends of the battery wires. You can tear them off in which case you'll have to resolder the connection.

If you're using the rechargeable battery then plug in the magnetic micro-usb charging tip. Orientation for the battery and their holders are shown in the photos. Unplug everything and put the battery into position. I haven't had any issues with it moving around but feel free to use some tape to 100% secure it down. I have an updated version of this now which uses 3 of the PCB screws to hold the pieces together.

Putting the PCB Into Place

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There are 3 screwholes for the PCB. One is under where the battery holder sits.

Switches

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Cut the pins off the bottom. The flatter this bottom is the better. You'll note mine still isn't totally flat since the solder under the wires still persists. You can try to sand it down or something but this worked fine for me. You'll need to cut parts of the switch PCBs off so they fit. Just like cutting the top shell be very careful. Wear eye protection. I use flush cutters but I'm sure there are more effective methods.

Slide the side buttons switches up and into place.

Scroll Wheel

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Slide the printed piece onto the thicker end of the scroll wheel. You will need to use the Glorious scroll wheel.

As you can see the scroll wheel is still a bit low even with the 13mm encoder. This is furthered slightly by the M1/2 sitting slightly higher as well.

Putting It Together

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Make sure to clean off the supports well as the fit will be scuffed with any remnants. Slide the top shell under the top of the clips and back.

There are two screwholes in the back. Use the long screws from the bottom of the G305.