Wireless Foot Pedals: Type With Morse Code!

This controller retrofits a wireless keyboard to use as two foot pedals/buttons. Using code that runs natively on your computer (file download required), it reads the Z and X keys as . and - respectively in Morse code and converts it into text. Beyond text, the code can input other keys, such as the function keys, space bar, or the windows button. The foot pedals are constructed from wood and other durable materials to ensure longevity. Batteries are not included.

Supplies/tools required:

• Foam core
• Exacto-Knife
• 1/2 in thick wood
• Logitech wireless keyboard combo (Logitech K345 Keyboard and Mouse Combo)
• 4+ Foam bullets (Nerf, Adventure Force, etc.)
• Copper tape
• Electrical tape
• Hot Glue
• Alligator clips
• AAA Batteries (2)

• (Optional) 3D printer & PLA filament

Usb-a adapter may be required based on the computer of choice

1. Use only the keyboard for these upcoming steps.
2. Flip the keyboard to its backside, and unscrew every Phillips head screw.
3. Two are hidden inside the top rubber bumpers, so pry them off with a flat-head screwdriver and unscrew these Phillips head screws.
4. Separate the front and back plate of the keyboard with the help of a flat-head screwdriver.
5. Separate excess parts so only the back plate is present.
6. Unscrew all screws (labeled in image above) with a second smaller Phillips head screwdriver.
7. Carefully remove the wire panel from the keyboard chip.
8. Remove the plastic piece connected to the on/off switch.
9. Take out the keyboard chip and battery connections needed for the next steps.

Remove the back plate from the mouse to reveal the wireless receiver used for both the mouse and keyboard. Plug it into your computer with usb-a directly or use a usb-a adapter.

1. Cut two 7x4 inch pieces of foam core.
2. Create two pieces a as shown in the image above, with dimensions and glue them together.
3. Add this piece to the top left of one piece of foam core, with the pointy edges pointed toward the sky.
4. Add the keyboard chip, as shown in image 3, with the battery wire connections on the bottom side and to the right.
5. If the circuit still remains insecure, hold it down with some electrical tape.
6. Connect two AAA batteries together with Electrical tape.
7. On one piece of 7x4 foam core, project the area of the batteries and Logitech USB receiver, and cut these projections out of the foam core.
8. Add each of the battery connections to the newly created battery cavity, with the positive (red) wire closer to the circuit than the negative (black).
9. The metallic connections should be inserted into the foam core itself so they remain stationary.
10. Finally, add the second piece of 7x4 foam core to the bottom of the first one with the cuts done in previous steps.

These next few steps require fine precision, and may take a few tries to complete.

1. Completely cover the bottom left section of the foam core (when viewed top-down) with electrical tape.
2. As shown above there are three points of connection that have to be used for this project.
3. Cut three pieces of copper tape which are no wider than the inputs on the circuit itself.
4. These should be long enough to reach the foam core's edge in one piece.
5. You can cut the copper tape so it is only thin at the circuit area and expands wider for the alligator clips, but try not to let each piece of copper tape be in contact with one another! If each is relatively close, segregate each tape piece with electrical tape on top of both sides.

Although the Wireless hub is technically finished, I would recommend adding an outer casing out of wood, more foam core, or a 3D print.

A 3D print is available, which may ease creating the wireless hub.

1. After printing the model with infill, wrap electrical tape around area A (with its infill removed).
2. Insert the keyboard chip into area B, with the battery wires sticking out of area C.
3. Attach all the 3D printed pieces onto a singular foam core piece.
4. Separate part Ba and part Bb two AAA battery lengths away from one another, adding extra distance to consider the spring.
5. Insert the battery connections into the designated cavities for part Ba and part Bb.
6. If still loose, hold the connections down with electrical tape.
7. Cut and attach three pieces of copper tape (in the same points of input listed in step 3) no wider than the inputs on the circuit itself. These should be long enough to reach area A's edge in one singular piece.
8. You can cut the copper tape so it is only thin at the circuit area, and expands wider for the alligator clips, but try not to let each piece of copper tape to be in contact with one another! If each is relatively close, segregate each tape piece with electrical tape on top of both sides.

1. Out of 1/2 inch thick wood, cut a 4x10 piece of wood, and a 3x3.5 in piece respectively.
2. Sand any shape edges in the wood with sandpaper.
3. Hot glue a 2x4 piece of foam core in a position as shown above onto the 3x3.5 inch piece of wood, with copper tape on the side facing away the wood.
4. Around the shorter sides of the wood, hot glue foam bullets onto the wood without the rubber tip (cut off the rubber tip completely. Remember that the left side should have a 1-inch cavity where foam bullet is absent.
5. On the 4x10 piece of wood, add a less than 1-inch wide copper tape that stretches from the middle to beyond the right long side of the wood, with a foam core extension on the right side, held to the wood by hot glue.
6. Finally, hot glue the 3x3.5 in piece onto the 4x10 piece via the foam bullets, making sure the foam is not in direct contact with the copper tape (this will make the circuit fail, not good!).

Your finished piece should look like the bottom right-most image, besides the additional tape and paper clips I added for accessibility.

1. Out of 1/2 inch thick wood, cut a 4x10 piece of wood and a 3x3.5 inch piece, respectively.
2. Sand any shape edges in the wood with sandpaper.
3. Hot glue a 2x4 piece of foam core in a position as shown above onto the 3x3.5 in piece of wood, with copper tape on the side facing away from the wood.
4. Around the shorter sides of the wood, hot glue foam bullets onto the wood without the rubber tip (cut off the rubber tip entirely). Remember that the right side should have a 1-inch cavity where foam bullet is absent.
5. On the 4x10 piece of wood, add a less than 1-inch wide copper tape that stretches from the middle to beyond the left long side of the wood, with a foam core extension on the left side, held to the wood by hot glue.
6. Finally, hot glue the 3x3.5 in piece onto the 4x10 piece via the foam bullets, making sure the foam is not in direct contact with the copper tape.

Your finished piece should look like the bottom right-most image, besides the additional tape and paper clips I added for accessibility.

1. Connect the alligator clips as shown above. The ground wire alligator clip has two separate alligator clips attached to it that separate into each foot pedal respectively. Separate the wires from each other so they do not falsely connect!

Amazing! You've finished the creation of this device! However, there is a software component to this device as well.

• Download this GitHub Program (may not work on Mac devices)

• Extract the Zip File and run MorseCodeGUI.

• Other settings can be changed (such as input delay), but you must use the two-key option with the dot being x and the dash being z, respectively for the device to function properly. To use one foot pedal, use the one-key option, and choose either the x or z key.

• To turn off the program, open the hidden icons on Windows and right-click the MorseCodeGUI icon, where a prompt for "Quit" will appear. Left-click it to stop the program.

Now, you are ready to use this device for your computer needs!

Morse code reference sheet (print it!)

Comment below!