Wireless Finalmouse Air58 Guide - G305

These are the orientations that I print the pieces in. Remember to use supports on the rechargeable battery holder. Typically I use eSun PLA+ so I don't know about other filament types.

I've printed this on an Ender 3 and Prusa Mini.I print with pretty close to the supplied 0.2mm Standard profiles so I'm not going to post my full profiles, but I would enable "print thin walls".

There are many different baseplate variations in case you want holes or not, or wish to solder on a taller encoder. The scroll wheel will be a bit lower than usual otherwise. I find it to be perfectly usable, but it's different so you'll need to prepare for that. This was much more pronounced in my older versions of this mod. The mouse in these photos has a 13mm encoder soldered onto it. 10mm is stock so if you're confused use that one. The difference between "G305" or "Stock" labelled ones is minor, but the stock scroll wheel is fatter than the G305 one, and as such it can move laterally. It's not a huge deal but if you lost your old scroll, or prefer the G305 one then you can print the ones labelled accordingly for a slightly nicer fit.

You will need to cut bits off of your Finalmouse. It's reversible, but if this bothers you then this mod isn't for you.

Here are all of the parts laid out and labelled. Choose between which scroll wheel and battery holder you'll be using.

Here are the rods you cut. Match this picture.

Trim the bottom splines off of the m1/2 switches.

Be careful with the ends of the battery wires. You can tear them off in which case you'll have to resolder the connection.

If you're using the rechargeable battery then plug in the magnetic micro-usb charging tip. Orientation for the battery and their holders are shown in the photos. Unplug everything and put the battery into position.

For the rechargeable battery you'll want to tape the connection to the open end. I also typically add a piece of tape around the holder reaching under the pcb. The holder is small and thin like this so it can fit in all of the mice I've made mods for. For example, if it were longer and fully surrounded the battery, it would run into the internal wall and not fit.

Screw in the PCB. I typically just do three screws and ignore the one by the battery holder.

Now plug in the rest of the connectors and slide the switch holders over the top of the switches. The little square indent indicates the backside. You can also tape them down if that helps keep them in place better. The pieces are very small and any variation in the prints will likely leave them loose or ill-fitted.

If you're using the stock scroll wheel or a taller encoder then slide in a slab to cover the distance between your right scroll arm and scroll click. If you leave this out then you can't scroll click and the scroll won't be supported on the right side.

Push the side button PCB down and to the back.

This is the part with the most variance. Align it at the front by the clips and push down and forward to slot it into place. I usually do it one side at a time beginning with the right. I'm sure left first works just fine but that's how I prefer to do it. Once it's in place then flip it over and screw in the back two screws.

Do not be surprised if you knock something out of place your first time doing this. Just remove the top, see if something looks moved, and try again.

If it won't close then you didn't cut enough, or something else is out of alignment or in the way.