Wingback Armchair Full Build and Upholstery | Whitehorn Studio Woodworking

This project came about as I have always had an interest in woodworking and wanted to combine this with a new interest in upholstery. This was the first time I had attempted to make an armchair from start to finish.

This is a project involving multiple different skills and if you have not done many of them before it can take a while to get each step right. Persevere with it and you will have a great chair to relax in for years to come along with some new skills. If you like this guide consider subscribing to Whitehorn Studio Woodworking.

Wood

• 6x1(150mmX25mm) For the wings
• 5x1(125mmX25mm) for the Armrests
• 2x1(50mmX25mm) for the arm structure
• For the base I used chipboard from an old wardrobe, this should be cut to the size you want your armchair to be
• For the rest of the wood I cut 4x1(100mmX25mm) into strips, 3 or 4 strips is fine, these do not need to be exact - These are for the back supports and optionally the arm structure, make the sides and top of the back wider, between 2"(50mm) and 3"(75mm)
• Wooden legs - Choose the style you prefer (I used leg plates screwed to the bottom of the chair to easily screw the legs into

Foam

NOTE: The foam density should be based on your preference

• 1 sheet 70"x20" @ 2 inch thick High density
• 1 block 20"x20" @ 3 inch thick Medium density
• 2 sheets 70"x20" @ half inch thick Low density
• High density foam for the back, this is a very firm back, you may prefer medium density
• I also used high density on the tops of the arms which gets covered in low density foam
• Medium density foam for seat cushion, again you may prefer a high density firm seat
• Low density foam is used to cover the arms and the front

Fabric

This one is totally your choice on fabric type/color but I suggest a hard wearing fabric if the chair will be used regularly. I would get 7 meters of your chosen fabric, better to have some leftover than not enough.

Other Supplies

6mm Furniture Board

Upholstery Base Lining (Cambric)

Upholstery Spray Adhesive

Webbing for the Seat

23 Buttons and Button Thread

A long Needle

Wadding

Piping Cord

Zipper for the Cushion

Back Tack

Metal Tack Strip

Leg plates (optional)

Tools Used

Mitre Saw

Bandsaw or Jigsaw

Screwdriver/Drill

25mm Holesaw

Rubber Mallet

Nailer/Stapler gun

Supplies:

6x1(150mmX25mm)

1. Freehand sketch the arm shape you would like and then cut out 2 arm fronts using 6x1 and a jigsaw or bandsaw. The arms should have a notch so that they sit on the sides of the base (see image)
2. Using any wood available cut 4 pieces to build the base, that back piece should have a curve at the back to align with the curve your chair will have. The sides of the base should have a notch so that they sit on the back (see image). Make the base have a good depth for when people sit in it and the webbing expands. Make a slant front front to back and also make the back narrower than the front to make a more comfortable seating position.
3. Nail through the front into the sides.
4. Nail through the bottom of the back into the sides.
5. Nail through the sides into the arm fronts. Leave a gap of 1" between the arm fronts and chair front

Supplies:

5x1(125mmX25mm)

2x1(50mmX25mm)

1. Cut two pieces from your 5x1 that are the length of the sides you cut for the base, these should be tapered from front to back, the front of these should be slightly less than the arm fronts
2. Cut 2 pieces of 2x1 to support the arm tops you just cut, these should sit on the back of the base and your arm tops should be level on top
3. Nail through the base into the 2x1
4. Nail through the front into the arm tops and through the arm tops into the 2x1 at the back

Supplies:

2x1(50mmx25mm)

Any offcuts for triangle supports

1. Cut a piece of 2x1 to go at the back, sitting on the back piece of the base.
2. Nail this from the underside.
3. Cut 2 triangle supports, this will give the base much more structure.
4. Screw the supports to the 2x1 and the side of the base.
5. Cut 2 more support pieces to go at the front, between the arms and front of base.
6. Screw in these supports from the back of the arm front,
7. Using your 2x1 cut 4 pieces with length matching the distance between your arm fronts and the 2x1 at the back.
8. Screw in the bottom one about 2" above your base side, this gap is a requirement to allow you to pull the fabric through later on.
9. Screw in the top pieces so that they just start to curve with your arm front.

Supplies:

2x1(50mmX25mm)

6mm Furniture Board

Offcuts

NOTE: This step is optional but adds a nice curve to the front of the arms and the front of the chair.

1. Cut some small blocks to build the box and angled sections of the front of the arms.
2. Nail these all together and cover with 6mm furniture board
3. Cut 4 door stop style pieces of wood, thickness depends on how much curve you want.
4. Nail these to the front of the base.
5. Also add an extra piece of 2x1 to each of the arm structures, this time angled towards the inside of the arm fronts.
6. Screw these to the arm front and the back upright 2x1

Supplies:

6x1(150mmX25mm)

3x1(75mmX25mm)

2x1(50mmX25mm)

NOTE: You will notice in the next step that I shortened the height of the back of the chair.

1. Take a piece of 3x1 and cut a curved piece(No.1 in the image) to go in between the sides of the base. The front of this should be just behind the 2x1 you added previously to structure the base.
2. Nail this in from the sides of the base sides
3. Take a piece of 6x1 and cut a curved piece (No.2 in the image). This curve should match the curve at the bottom of the base.
4. Screw this in from the side of the 2x1 that is supporting the arm tops.
5. Take your 3x1 and cut 2 lengths for the height you want for the back of the chair.
6. Cut 2 spacer blocks (shown in the image) and screw these into the arm sides.
7. Screw your back sides into these spacer blocks. This should have an angle backwards for a comfortable back support.
8. Take a piece of 6x1 for the top of the chair back and cut with curved front and back to match the other pieces.
9. Screw this in through the outside of the 2 back sides.

Supplies:

6x1(150mmX25mm)

1. Take your 6x1 and freehand sketch the wing shape, this should go to the top of your back piece but allow a 1" gap at the bottom for foam/fabric. Not shown from the back but highlighted in the pictures, on the back of the wings are small pieces of wood that overhang the wings, these are then screwed into the back sides.
2. Take your 6x1 and cut into 5 strips that fit between the top of the back and No.2 from the previous step. The first piece should be centered and screwed into the very back of No.2. The rest of the pieces should be evenly spaced and screwed in from the bottom of No.2 if possible, otherwise screw down into No.2 and also screw down through the top of the back.
3. Check you are happy with both the curve of the back and the angle before proceeding.

Supplies:

Webbing

2x1(50mmX25mm)(Added 2 pieces to the arm structure)

1. Staple the webbing on one end, stretch over to the other side (you want to get a good stretch on the webbing. I would suggest an 85% stretch) and staple it.
2. Cut the webbing roll about an inch past where you staples, fold over this inch and staple again to give extra strength.

I went with 4 strips across and 3 front to back, you should have about a 2 inch gap between strips.

Make sure you weave the strips under-over each other and alternate each one.

Notice here I added 2 pieces to the structure of the arms, this was to align to the bottom of the arms.

Supplies:

6mm Furniture Boards

1. Take your 6mm furniture board and cut to size for the inside of the arms, it should fold over the top of the arm and go to the bottom of the arm structure.
2. Staple this down along all sides. Remember to leave that gap between the bottom and the webbing to pull the fabric to the outside later.

Supplies:

Cambric

1. Cut 2 pieces of your cambric to size to cover the back and seat. The seat part can overlap the front "door steps" you added previously.

Supplies:

High Density Foam

Spray Adhesive

1. Take your high density foam sheet and cut 2 pieces to cover the arm rests. These should go from the top inside of the chair all the way around to the underside of the arm rests and make sure to cover the back of the arm rests.
2. Use your spray adhesive to stick this down and apply pressure all over.

Supplies:

Low Density Foam

Spray Adhesive

1. Take your low density foam and cut to size to completely wrap the armrests from inside to out(minus the bottom) ensuring you have enough to cover the front also, again make sure the back of the armrests are covered. This can be done in one piece or 2 but make sure to glue the joints together.
2. Use your spray adhesive on the chair and the back of the foam and apply pressure all over.

This provides a nice soft armrest with the low density foam on top of the high density foam.

Supplies:

High Density Foam

Spray Adhesive

1. Take your high density foam, or if you prefer a softer seat then go for medium density foam. Cut a piece that matches the shape of your back but is wider than the back as the back foam so that the wing foam edges, once added can be pressed together. Cut the foam longer than the chair back as this should curve over the top of the chair and under the top of the back.
2. Spray the cambric and the back of the foam and apply pressure all over
3. Staple the top to the under side of the back.

Supplies:

High Density Foam

Low Density Foam

Spray Adhesive

1. Take your high density foam sheet and cut 2 pieces to wrap the wings, this should go tight against the foam on the chair back and also wrap under the wing, around the side and over the top, with all sides being stapled at the back.
2. Spray the wings and back of the foam with spray adhesive and apply pressure all over.
3. Staple the foam to the back of the wings.
4. Take a holesaw and cut 25mm holes in the places you want buttons. I went for a diamond tufting design. Remember not to go too low as the seat cushion would cover those.
5. Where any of your 25mm holes meet your back supports you will need to drill a small hole through the back support. This is to allow the button thread to pass through in a later step.
6. I also added a piece of half inch low density foam to the front of the chair, attached with spray adhesive.

Supplies:

Wadding - The wadding here adds a subtle softness but also protects the fabric from rubbing against the foam and wearing out faster.

Spray Adhesive

1. Lightly spray the foam on the seat back and wings with spray adhesive and drape your wadding over the seat and cut around the wings so that it completely covers the front of the wings and seat back. It should go around the back edge slightly.
2. Poke a screwdriver through the back of the chair and through the 25mm holes to come out the front of the wadding.
3. Carefully cut the wadding between the wings and the seat back to allow fabric to be pulled in between. If you want 2 lines down the bottom of the back(as seen in my next step) then cut these into the foam and wadding now.

Supplies:

Fabric

Buttons

Button Thread

Long Needle

Here you will need to calculate the fabric piece size you need. If you went with diamond tufting you will need to measure the width of the back(without the wings) and add the depth of the foam(2") times the number of holes, plus overhang to staple to the back.

e.g. I have 4 holes across and my foam is 2" thick, if the width of my seat back is 20" I would add 20" + 8"(4x2") + 6"(3" overhang each side) = 34" wide. Do the same calculation for top to bottom size.

The tufting process is one that takes a bit of practice and would be an instructable in itself, therefore it is best learnt by following a video tutorial, of which there are many available on youtube.

The basic process is to mark out your fabric with the same pattern as your button holes, keeping in mind the distances between holes will be different based on foam depth. Then you will thread a needle with a button and thread, push the needle through the front of the fabric, through the 25mm hole and out the back of the chair, pull the button tight and staple the twine to the back supports, fold twine over and staple multiple times.

After tufting is complete you will need to staple all around the edge of the fabric to the back of the chair.

Supplies:

Fabric

1. The hard part (tufting) is out the way now so just measure the front of your wings and allow a couple inches for overlap each side and cut your fabric.
2. Drape it over the front of the wing, pull tightly over the edge and staple to the back.
3. Push the fabric between the wing and the back and pull through from the back, staple to the back of the wing.

The fabric does not need to cover the full back of the wing.

Supplies:

3" Foam Block

Wadding

Fabric

Zipper

1. Firstly cut a piece of fabric to go under the cushion. This will also come down the front of the chair and slightly under. Cut just wider than you need so you can fold the sides in.
2. Staple to the back, pull tightly forwards, fold under the chair and staple underneath to the front of the base.
3. Pull the sides through the gaps and staple from the outside of the arm structure.
4. There is many great videos on sewing cushions with zips on youtube. Based on the size you want the cushion to fit snuggly into your chair you will need to measure 4 pieces of fabric for the sides of the cushion and 2 pieces for the top and bottom. Remember to add seam allowance.
5. Sew the back piece with the zip and then sew all these pieces together.
6. Wrap your foam block in wadding for a softer feel and to prevent fast wearing of the fabric.
7. Stuff your block into the cushion cover.

Supplies:

Fabric

NOTE: See the next step for a picture of the back of the arms

1. Cut a piece of fabric that will cover the front of the arm.
2. Using upholstery chalk, outline the shape of the arm and cut about half inch outside this line for seam allowance.
3. Cut a second piece of fabric that will cover all the way from the inside of the chair, up over the arm rest and around to where the underside of the arm rest meets the side of the chair. It should also be wide enough to cover from the very back of the arm rest to a few inches over the front.
4. Using upholstery chalk, outline the shape of the arm and again leaving seam allowance cut along the line.
5. Sew these 2 pieces together and you have your arm cover.
6. Repeat for the other arm.

Supplies:

Your choice of padding for the back of the chair

6mm Furniture Board

Leg Plates and Furniture Legs

1. Screw the leg plates into the bottom of the chair and screw the legs in, this makes it easier to cover the lower parts of the back and side in fibre/foam/wadding.
2. Next you have options, you can use the half inch foam sheets or a few layers of wadding or some wool fibre. This is just to provide a soft back to the chair. Whichever option you go with you need to fully cover the back of the chair and the sides.
3. The easiest way to cover the back of the wings is to first staple some of the 6mm furniture board to them.
4. Once ready spray the back and sides in sections and apply pressure to the chosen backing.

Supplies:

Fabric

Piping Cord

Cardboard Back Tack

Metal Tack Strip

Cambric

1. For the piping you will need to cut a piece of fabric the length of the area you want to cover and 2" wide
2. Place your piping cord in the middle of the fabric, fold the fabric over and, with your sewing machine, sew as close to the piping cord as possible so that it does not move around inside the fabric.
3. Place the prepared piping on the chair and staple it on, keeping the staples close together so there is no movement in the piping.
4. Next measure out 3 pieces of fabric, one for the back and 2 for the sides, remember to increase measurement for seam allowance where the back and sides meet. Leave about 2 inches at the bottom of the back and sides. Leave about half inch at the front of the sides and along the wing outline. Leave about an inch at the top of the sides.
5. Sew the back and sides together.
6. With the fabric draped over the front of the chair, standing at the back, place the top of the back, face down, along the top edge against your piping.
7. Overlay with the cardboard back tack and staple down. Let your fabric hang down the back of the chair.
8. From the edge of your back tack, down the wings to where it meets the arm, staple your metal tack strip right up against the piping.
9. Put the half inch allowance you left earlier into the metal tack strip and fold it over. Use a clean rubber mallet to flatten it down.
10. Repeat the same steps with cardboard back tack at the top of the sides and metal tack strip down the front of the sides.
11. Fold the remainder of the fabric under the chair and staple to the underside.
12. Cut a piece of cambric the size of the bottom of your chair, adding an inch all around.
13. Fold an edge under itself and staple down, repeat all around to seal the bottom of the chair.

Supplies:

You and your newly built chair

Thanks for taking the time to read my very first Instructable, I hope you enjoyed it and learned something about the furniture build process and what goes into building and upholstering a piece of furniture. I will have more videos/tutorials like this in 2023, to keep up to date please subscribe to my youtube channel Whitehorn Studio Woodworking