Wicked Fast Dremel & Router Bit Organizers Using Dadoes (Instead of Holes)

With router and Dremel bits, I often don't know what I need until I see it.

After several iterations of drilling holes in wood, I began looking for a solution that would:

• be faster to make
• have a much higher density

After several bad ideas over the course of several months, I had an epiphany: Intersecting dadoes are perfect for keeping cylinders upright.

The idea: Find the perfect dado width. It would need to be just smaller than the shank diameter, yet large enough that the intersection of 2 dadoes would accommodate the shank. A shank can then fit in the intersection, but not the dadoes that make up that intersection.

The Benefits:

• Speed
• Density
• Organizational bliss

The Speed: Wayyyyy faster than I anticipated. In ~25 minutes, I was able to:

• Drill 63 holes for the 1/2" shank tray
• Drill 216 holes for the 1/4" shank tray
• Drill 384 holes for the 1/8" shank tray
• Change blade setups between trays
• Sand off the tearout in the grooves of each board

In this case, drill = cut a dado, and holes = intersections.

In this Instructable, I'll give you:

• All specific dimensions for making organizer trays for 1/2", 1/4", and 1/8" shank trays
• Ideas of how to achieve those dimensions using various blade setups.

Note: This is not a prototype. I do many prototypes, but the prototypes for this project were made over a year ago. What I'm showing you here is the tweaked, final project after a year of using the prototypes.

See the video!

I'm pretty stinking excited about this project. It presented a few opportunities for various fun tests. The video contains those tests as well as a walk-through of making these organizer trays.

Note: I used Baltic Birch, but recommend you just use a 2x6 to avoid the glue-up.

Parts:

1. Part of a 2x6

Yeah that's all. I went fancier in the video, but a chunk of 2x4 or 2x6 is a great place to start (and end for that matter). It's the perfect thickness and you can avoid having to glue up layers.

Tools:

• Oshlun 8" Dado Stack
• Freud Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood Blade (I love this blade, but don't use it for ripping)
• Measuring tape tape (millimeters)
• Measuring tape tape (inches)
• Magical roll of sticky sandpaper

Then of course, a table saw + crosscut sled!

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Here are my findings. (See picture w/ table for more details.)

Set Up Your Crosscut Sled

Measuring tape tape is extremely valuable for cuts like this. I don't care to zero the tape to the blade, but rather, just stick it on and use it as an incremental guide.

When I say "spacing" I really mean "intervals"

I realize "spacing" may refer to the distance between two dadoes. But, I'm referring to the cut increments. So, if the spacing/increment is 1", you'd make cuts at something like 2", 3", 4", 5", 6", etc. (Therefore, the distance between the dadoes will be less.)

Tray for 1/8" Shanks

• Use a standard thin kerf 3/32" saw blade. Easy, right?
• Spacing: 1/2" or 1 cm. (I did 1 cm on accident and it worked well)
• Depth of dado: 0.5"

Tray for 1/4" Shanks

• Use the same standard thin kerf 3/32" saw blade.
• Plus, make an extra cut at +1/16".
• Spacing: 1/2"
• Depth of dado: 0.6" - 0.75"

Example cut+extra sequence:

• 2"
• 2 1/16" (increment +1/16")
• 2 1/2"
• 2 9/16" (increment +1/16")
• 3"
• 3 1/16" (increment +1/16")
• 3 1/2"
• 3 9/16" (increment +1/16")
• ...

Tray for 1/2" Shanks

• Use a dado stack: both wings + one 1/8" chipper
• Spacing: 7/8" - 1"
• Depth of dado: 0.75"

TIP: Reduce the amount of tearout by using a blade with alternating bevel teeth. See picture.

It's hard to believe it, but you're almost done.

Bust out some columns for a little tray to hold various parts that don't fit in the holes.

Clean up tearout. Old faux wood blinds and a roll of sticky sandpaper make a quick stick sander that's perfect for this.

You know what to do now. Go have fun. If you make this, drop a note or post a picture!

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