Water Cooling System for Raise3D Pro2 Printers Made Using Hand-tools,Table Saw and Drill Press (unofficial Open-source Design),

Goal:

a) To reduce failed prints due to jammed extruders, and improve printing speed

b) To replace the slip-on, air-cooled heatsink provided by Raise3D for their Pro2 extruders with a slip-on water cooled version that I designed myself (open-source plans included). Water cooling is used in order to prevent problems such as heat-creep which ultimately leads to filament jams and failed prints.

c) To explain my design choices and demonstrate how I fabricated my heat-sink using simpler shop tools like hand tools, drill press, and table-saw (no milling) to machine my aluminum heat-sink from a block of raw aluminum. Copper could be used (my non-ferrous blade can cut copper), but copper is more expensive, harder to get, and in many cases, overkill.

Introduction:

I work at a University helping 3rd and 4th year physics students with their applied physics projects.

We have a Raise3D Pro2 which is a large and lovely enclosed dual extruder 3D printer, but the Raise3D Pro2 often has annoying jams due to heat-creep. During long prints, excess heat travels past the heat-break, and can soften or melt filament, which increases back-pressure, and can lead to clogs/jams/failed prints.

The Raise3D Pro2 extruders use small slip-on air-cooled aluminum heatsinks that use a large central cooling fan to cool down both the heat sinks for the left and right extruders. Unfortunately the design of the extruder-mount impedes air flow from this central cooling fan, especially on the left-extruder, resulting in more frequent clogs on the left extruder.

I saw an image on the Raise3D pro2 forums for a water cooling attachment designed by Paul Yarnall that replaces the main cooling fan and the air-cooled heat-heat sinks used in the Raise3D Pro2 with a water cooled system. I liked the idea of fewer jams and faster printing and decided to design my own version that can be made in a home shop from either aluminum or copper. Copper has the best thermal conductivity of any metal found in a workshop, being twice as good as Aluminum, but Aluminum is much cheaper, and easier to get a hold of, and more corrosion resistant. Copper may be preferred though if working with higher temperature filaments or higher production speeds are needed.

This Instructable is for my own open-source design for a water cooling system for the Raise3D Pro2, and it has NOT been endorsed by Raise3D or by Paul Yarnall (yet). I hope you like it.

P.S: If you like this instructable, then please vote for me in the metal working contest.

The water cooling system I built can be made without using a mill or lathe. I used the following supplies

Power tools:

a) Drill press (make sure to level the drill press prior to use, we use a table mounted drill press)

b) Hand drill

c) Table saw (We use a Dewalt DWE7480 portable table saw with 5/8" Arbor and able to use a 10" blade)

ACCESSORIES FOR TABLE SAW:

c.1) Full Saw-sled (You build these yourself, I made both a full saw sled, and a half saw-sled)

• Mikesaurus has a good instructable on how to build a full-sled saw-sled here https://www.instructables.com/Easy-Table-Saw-Sled/
• Scrap Wood City has a good video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_5Ub37F9hM
• Celal Unal also has good videos at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQvV7-4QFiM

(BUILD THIS SLED FROM WOODSMITH IF YOU CAN: More complex, but seems worth it in long run)

• Here are a great series of plans from woodsmith https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/table-saw-sleds/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLRlO0Dc-3U This includes adding rail systems that can have measuring tapes added onboard, and clamping systems so nobody needs to drill into the saw-sled to clamp stuff on.

Remember, if you do not have a clamping system, then you need to drill into your saw sled to anchor stuff or use C-clamps)

c.2) Non-ferrous metal cutting saw blade. In my case I used an

• Oshlun SBNF-100100 10" 100-tooth TCG saw blade for 5/8" arbour for use with Aluminum and non-ferrrous metals (like copper). Here is a link on Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Oshlun-SBNF-100100-10-Inch-Aluminum-Ferrous/dp/B0012YMVBE/ref=asc_df_B0012YMVBE/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293024427005&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13651383256048775960&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001564&hvtargid=pla-434836537642&th=1

This tool had quickly become my favourite shop tool. I love using metal cutting saw blades. Find one compatible with your table saw.

*NOTE: There are some saws that have a safety feature that detects human skin touching the blade, and instantly stops the blade. Do not cut aluminum using those types of saws without first disabling that safety feature.

c.3) Saw Fence (my table saw comes with a telescoping fence with a measuring tape built in. This is super useful)

c.4) Shop Vac (My table saw has a connection point for a vacuum hose. We attach it to our shop's vacuum system, also useable for cleaning up the metal chips generated)

c.5) Broom / Brush / Dustpan (for cleaning stuff up, especially dust)

c.6) Lubricant for aluminum cutting blade (ex: Spray on lubricants, or saw-wax, WD-40, silicone spray lubricant)

c.7) C-Clamps (minimum of three, ideally 4) These are used to hold the piece in place and to hold stop blocks in position

c.8) Wood blocks (Minimum of 2) Position them as needed and then clamp them in place.

c.9) Ear protection (It's a loud power tool that cuts through stuff)

c.10) Full face mask (chips in your face or eyes are not fun)

c.11) Dust mask (chips in your lungs are worse. Aluminum dust used in his makeup killed the actor who played the Tin-man from Wizard of Oz)

Accessories for Drill Press

a.1) Screw down clamp

(I recommend something like a Kant-Twist Quick acting clamp, with 1/4-20 mounting bolts https://www.penntoolco.com/kant-twist-quick-acting-clamp-standard-copper-plated-jaws-6-jaw-opening-k060tq/

This works much better than a vise clamp, and lets us position the part more quickly and precisely. Ours has been modified by screwing it down to a flat plate with a single 1/4-20 bolt in the middle. This allows us to attach it to the drill press more easily, by feeding that central bolts into the slots on the drill press table and then tightening the nut to clamp the base of the clamp in place.

Marking tools:

1) Pocket Scribe with diamond or Tungsten Carbide tip https://www.amazon.ca/General-Tools-Instruments-88CM-Tungsten/dp/B00004T7S1/ref=sr_1_19?crid=QF4IRFN7DNNS&keywords=scribe&qid=1651013032&s=hi&sprefix=scribe%2Ctools%2C104&sr=1-19

(This is good for both marking the surface, and making a starter indentation on SOFT METALS like copper or Aluminum. DO NOT HIT HARD, AND DO NOT USE METAL HAMMER)

2) Center Punch ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Marking-and-Starter-Kit-3-Piece-33/100507475 )

This is used to make indentations on the surface that lets drill-bits stay centered.

3) Soft mallet or Wood Block (Used to knock on the back of the pocket scribe to make a very light but very precise indentation, and used to help knock the pieces into position.)

4) Hammer (Strike the center punch to make a surface indentation for positioning drill bits).

5) Masking tape (Used to make visible drill collars that let us know when we have drilled deep enough into our blocks)

6) Black sharpie (used to mark surfaces)

7) Pencil (always have a pencil for marking stuff. I like mechanical pencils)

Measuring Tools

8) Stainless Steel Metal ruler with adjustable square and level https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Peahefy-Stainless-Steel-Angle-Ruler-Adjustable-Angle-Ruler-300mm-Adjustable-Combination-Square-Angle-Ruler-45-90-Degree-with-Bubble-Level/PRD15NF3MAA4NVS

9) Measuring Tape

10) Digital Vernier Calipers (THESE THINGS ROCK)

11) Flat bar (I use a 12" long piece of 1/8" aluminum. The goal is to be able to hold it against the (STOPPED) saw blade and use it as a reference when setting the location of stop blocks that will be used for positioning the metal being cut. Anything flat enough and long enough will do.

Drill Bits and Taps:

(NOTE: I prefer to get drills with 135 degree chisel points, which is a common standard for the tips of drill bits. They wander around less than drills which have 115 degree tips.)

12) #3 Center drill (has a 0.109" diameter tip and 1/4" body diameter)

13) #36 drill bit (Drill bit diameter = 0.1065") This is the tap-drill for a 6-32 threaded hole.

14) Small shank extended 6-32 tap https://www.shars.com/6-32-h3-2-flute-spiral-point-plug-tap-small-shank-extension-6-oal (DO NOT USE A STANDARD 6-32 TAP. THIS HOLE IS TOO DEEP AND NEEDS A SMALL SHANK EXTENDED 6-32 TAP, OR THE TAP WILL STICK AND SNAP)

15) #29 drill bit (has a 0.1360" diameter) This is the tap drill for 8-32 tapped holes.

16) **OPTIONAL** 8-32 Tap (If you do not trust your precision then instead of making 10-24 tapped holes, you can make 8-32 tapped holes)

17) #25 (diameter 0.1495") or 5/32 (diameter 0.1563")drill bit (These are the tap-drills for 10-24 tapped holes)

18) 1/4" drill bit

19) Size Q drill bit (0.332" diameter) (Tap drill for the 1/8-27 NPT tapped hole)

20) 1/8-27 NPT TAP (used to tap the threads for the 1/8-27 FNPT holes for the connectors)

21) 6mm drill bit (for drilling hole for extruder heat break)

OTHER TOOLS

23) #2 Philips head screw driver for screws

23) Set of assorted Allan keys (imperial)

24) File for deburring edges (use a file with larger scales or grooves to minimize clogging. You just want to break/clean up rough edges after cuts)

25) Paper towel or napkin to wipe surfaces

RAW MATERIALS: (Makes 2 heat sinks)

(Note: Due to precision and tolerancing issues, people may prefer to use 8-32 tapped channels instead of 10-24 tapped channels. The wider channels should allow for more fluid flow and heat transfer, but it may be considered more difficult to make. Using thinner channels makes it easier for lower precision designs that are easier to build. Larger channels can carry away more heat, but because tolerances are tighter, it is easier to accidentally drill through the wall and make leaks.)

26) 22mm x 25mm x 42mm Block of aluminum or copper : QTY =2 (1 per heatsink) (Aluminum is cheaper and more corrosion resistant, but copper has nearly twice the thermal conductivity. Aluminum is good enough for most of us, but copper may be better for faster printing or higher filament temperatures or thicker filaments. (RECOMMEND TO CUT FROM 1"x1"x1-3/4" piece of barstock,). Paul Yarnall made his heat-sinks from copper (which you can purchase from him).

For small lots of raw metals try ordering from Metals Supermarket.www.metalsupermarkets.com These are used to make both the left, and right heat-sinks.

27) 6-32 x 1-1/4" pan-head Philips screw : QTY = 2 (One per heat sink)

28) 1" wide x 1/16" thick aluminum oxide tape x 1-3/4" : QTY = 2 (one per heat sink (Optional: Used to hold the silicone insulator, and make a gap). https://www.mcmaster.com/87575K84/ . You can skip the tape if you want.

29) E3D water cooling kit : QTY 1 (cools both heat sinks at once) https://spool3d.ca/e3d-water-cooler-assembly/ Please fill with de-ionized water to reduce fouling. This kit includes connectors, 8mmOD/4mmID silicone tubing, 4mmOD/2mmID Nylon tubing, water recirculation pump, water reservoir, and cooling fan.

30) Loctite 246 medium strength high temperature thread locker (medium strength, and thread bond can be broken by using hand tools)

31) 1/8-27 MNPT to 4mm OD Tube press-fit tube connector : QTY = 4 (2 per heat-sink) https://www.mcmaster.com/7610N112/ These connect the water recirculation pump to the heat sinks through the 4mm OD nylon tubes.

32) 10-24 x 1/8" 18-8SS stainless steel setscrew driven by hex allan key, : QTY = 6( 3 per heatsink) https://www.mcmaster.com/92311A235/ These are the plugs that will be used with the LOCTITE to plug the channels and prevent leaks.

///**** OPTIONAL****///

If you have less confidence in your abilities to precisely position and drill the holes, then instead of using wider 10-24 drilled channels (drilled out using a #25 (0.1460" diameter) drill bit to make the channels, you can instead use 8-32 drilled channels using a #29 (0.1360" diameter drill) and tapping using 8-32 tapped holes in your channels.

33) 8-32 x 1/8" 18-8SS stainless steel setscrew driven by hex allan key, : QTY = 2-6 (1-3 per heat sink)

POWER SUPPLY:

34) A 12V 3A DC power supply. (Used for both the water cooling system pump and water cooling system fan). The Raise3D Pro2 cannot supply enough power to run both the cooling pump and cooling fan at the same time.

35) power bar (connect both the Raise3D pro2 and the 12VDC power supply for the cooling system to the power bar to turn everything on at once)

DRAWING PLANS

36) Copy of plans for making the part (please forgive my GD&T, I'm trying to get better). The drawing is provided under a Creative Commons license and is free to reproduce or modify. The design IS NOT ENDORSED BY RAISE3D, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Plans were drawn up using Solidworks. Study them prior to doing anything. The dimensions are given in mm because the dimensions of the heatsink were initially measured in mm.

I have added some tolerances, which people should be able to maintain. Pay attention to the water channels. If everything is done to exact tolerances, then the expected wall thickness at the thinnest points will only be 0.043" / 1.1mm. If you go outside the tolerances, there is a chance that you will either make a leak-point through a wall, or that you will have too little contact space for the 10-24x1/8 setscrews to be able to block water leaks.

Try to stay within tolerances given, and try to understand WHY we have positioned things the way we have in this heatsink

(EX: The holes for the 1/8-27 MNPT fittings are offset some distance apart, but if they were spaced closer together, then there would be no space to attach the fittings without them bumping into each-other)

This is the original extruder for a Raise3D Pro2 (see figure 1).

The heat sink is held on using a small setscrew. Loosening the setscrew allows the heatsink to be removed/replaced.

There is a diagram included that shows the space constraint envelope that the cooling fins of the raise3D Pro2 must fit within. Any heatsink we make MUST fit within the envelope shown in the diagram.

Get your barstock. Ideally a 1"x1" block of aluminum or copper longer than 43mm (1-3/4" or longer) should be used for each heatsink, but use whatever fits your budget. In my case I had a leftover 1"x1-1/2"x6" slab of aluminum that I cut my pieces from.

I recommend Metals Supermarket as a supplier for small lots of metal in a wide variety of sizes. forms, and alloys.

You will need to cut this down into a 22mm x 25mm x 42mm (with tolerances this means that the piece fits within a space envelope of (L=42mm-43mm) x (W = 22mm-22.5mm) x (H=25mm-25.5mm).

If you do not yet understand about tolerances, then please read up about them. They are the essential way of describing how measurements are "good enough to use"

Aluminum is cheaper and easier to get and works well enough for most applications. My current heat sink is made from Aluminum. Aluminum is also soft enough to mark with a scribe (or your Vernier caliper, but minimize doing abusing your Vernier caliper or your machining instructor will get mad at you)..

DANGER: A wood-cutting sawblade cannot safely or cleanly cut Aluminum.. Change the sawblade to the Aluminum cutting blade. In our case, because we are using a Dewalt DWE7480 portable table saw with 5/8" Arbor (the mounting hole in the middle of the saw is 5/8" diameter). This table saw can use blades that are maximum 10" across. My project made use of an Oshlun SBNF-100100 10" 100-tooth TCG saw blade for 5/8" arbour for use with Aluminum and non-ferrrous metals. It works great on Aluminum, and would also work well on copper.

If you have a different table saw, then please select the sort of Aluminum/non ferrous cutting blade that your saw is made to work with (pay attention to arbor and blade diameter).

The aluminum cutting saw makes some very smooth cuts in the aluminum barstock, but the piece may have also been roughly chopped off using a saw, and may need facing to clean up a rough side. The aluminum/non-ferrous saw blade faces surfaces nicely..

To get the piece to a length L with smooth sides on both ends, we will cut off a piece with L= 43.5mm-44mm and then flip the piece smooth the other end and bring L to within our tolerance of L = 42mm-43mm. After the first cut has been made, we will use a shim of acceptable thickness to space the piece out from the stop block so the 2nd side can be faced, and the length brought to within our required tolerances. EX: If the piece length was 43.5mm after the first cut then using a shim 1mm thick should bring the piece to a final length of 42.5mm. Using a shim is easier than re-positioning the stop block.

We will flip the piece, shim it, clamp it into place, then make our final cut to face the other side of the workpiece and bring L to within tolerance.

Always remember that at this level of precision, be sure to clear out dust and chips as well as you can. The piece can also get hot when being cut, so after making the cut, let the piece cool down before measuring the length of the piece.

TOOLS:

a) saw-sled,

b) the table saw with aluminum cutting blade,

c) vernier calipers,

d) Shims (either thin metal pieces like washers, or a piece of paper that can be folded to fractions of a mm in thickness)

e) Some form of stop block. In this picture I have a small rectangular block of aluminum I use as a stopper. In an earlier build, I used a block of wood and I screwed it (temporarily) to the top of the saw sled to make a stop block.

f) Sharpie-black marker to mark the surface. and your primary datum corner. (where datums A/B/C converge).

g) clamp to hold down the aluminum barstock, and the stopper. I used two F-Clamps.

h) Flat metal strip to use as reference distance from the saw.

i) spray on lubricant for the saw blade

j) file to break sharp corners.

k) brush or vacuum to clear away chips or dust (this is a suprisingly large source of tolerance error)

l) blocks of wood to hold down piece

*WARNING: DO NOT USE FINGERS TO HOLD DOWN WORKPIECE WHEN SAW IS RUNNING. FINGERS CAN GET LOST OR BURNT.

STEPS:

Step #A: Setup

1. Make sure the saw is OFF.
2. clear away any chips or dust and put the saw-sled onto the table saw
3. Vacuum or brush away any chips or dust on the saw sled

Step #B: Spacing and setting stop block at 43.5mm- 44mm

1. Raise the saw blade high-enough to cut through the aluminum bar-stock.
2. Open the Vernier Calipers to 44mm and lock jaws in place..
3. Place the metal strip against the teeth of the saw blade for use as a reference surface to measure distance between saw-blade and stop block. Space stop block roughly 44mm from the reference surface. NOTE: a bit of extra distance is OK, because we can always trim a piece that is slightly too long
4. clamp the stop block into position
5. Use Vernier calipers to remeasure distance between the stop-block and the reference surface to ensure the stop-block did not shift while being clamped. CLAMPED stop block should still be 43.5mm - 44mm from the saw blade. Reposition and re-clamp stop-block if it shifted out of our tolerances.

Step #C: Cut barstock to 43.5mm - 44mm (if the piece was already square, you can try and cut to within 42mm - 43mm and skip step #4)

1. If the edges of the barstock have large burrs/jagged edges from bad cuts, then use a file to deburr the edges/corners of the piece so it can fit more flush against the stop-block.
2. Place barstock against the stop block so it touches. DO NOT KNOCK STOPPER OUT OF ALIGNMENT.
3. Clamp barstock in place. Make sure the clamp is NOT in the way of the cutting blade
4. If using the lubricant, spray the lubricant on the teeth of the saw blade
5. Make sure your fingers are out of the way. Use hearing and eye protection
6. Turn saw ON and make the cut to trim the length L. NOTE: The piece has a tendency to float upwards unless clamped down. I use a block of wood to push down the piece while cutting.
7. Turn OFF the saw loosen the clamp on the barstock allow it to cool (or cool it by dunking it in water), and deburr/smooth the edges/corners of the workpiece with the file..
8. Inspect the length of the barstock with Vernier Calipers
9. DO NOT MOVE THE STOPPER OR ITS CLAMP UNLESS NEEDED)
10. brush away or vacuum away any metals dust or chips.
11. There may be metal pieces embedded between the teeth of the saw. Clear these embedded pieces out from the teeth of the saw blade

Step #D: Facing the other side of the cut-off piece of barstock to get L= 42mm-43mm in length

1. Measure the length of the piece, and inspect it to see how square it is. Using a saw sled ensures that the side that was just cut should be very square. The other side may not be as square. If it needs cutting/squaring/smoothing, then mark the side to be cut with the black sharpie
2. Clear away dust or chips
3. If the piece is longer than 43mm, or if the piece needs to be squared on the other side then obtain a shim of required thickness. Washers work well if large amounts of length need to be removed. Folded paper works well if thin shims are needed (simply fold the paper as many times as needed to get a shim of desired thickness)
4. The rough end that needs to cleaned up should be oriented towards the saw-blade.
5. Put shim between the stopper and the workpiece so that the smoothed face pinches the shim against the stop-block. This offsets the workpiece into the saw blade by the thickness of the shim. Ex: If the shim is 1mm thick, the saw will cut 1mm from the other end of the piece. If using paper shims, make sure that the paper is folded/stacked very flat.
6. Clamp the barstock in place
7. Make the cut. NOTE: The piece has a tendency to float upwards unless clamped down. I use a block of wood to push down the piece while cutting.
8. Clear away any dust or chips
9. Turn the saw OFF, unclamp the piece and verify that it is both square-enough, and that the piece is within the L = 42mm-43mm tolerance. If the piece is too long, then use a slightly thicker shim and try making another cut. Stay between L = 42mm and L = 43 mm (it's good enough)
10. Clear away any dust or chips.
11. There may be metal pieces embedded between the teeth of the saw. Clear these embedded pieces out from the teeth of the saw blade

My original barstock was 1-1/2" x 1" (38mm x 25.4mm) cold rolled aluminum. The ideal barstock dimensions would have been 1"x1" cold rolled aluminum or copper. Our piece was cut to have length L = 42mm-43mm, and now we will trim the width to W = 22mm-22.5mm. Cold rolled metal stock has very smooth parallel sides and often measure within 0.005"/0.0127mm tolerances. This is why we only need to face one (1) side of our workpiece to get the part within our required dimensions.

In my case I am trimming down from W = 1-1/2" down to W = 22mm-22.5mm

It is recommended to make a first/heavy cut to get the piece down to 23+mm, then use light cuts using thin shims to get the part down from W=23+mm down to our specified width of W = 22mm-22.5mm

Tools: Use the same tools as in step #5

TOOLS:

a) saw-sled,

b) table saw with aluminum cutting blade,

c) Vernier calipers,

d) Shims (either thin metal pieces like washers, or a piece of paper that can be folded to fractions of a mm in thickness)

e) Some form of stop block. In this picture I have a small rectangular block of aluminum I use as a stopper. In an earlier build, I used a block of wood and I screwed it (temporarily) to the top of the saw sled to make a stop block.

f) Sharpie-black marker to mark the surface. and your primary datum corner. (where datums A/B/C converge).

g) clamp to hold down aluminum barstock, and stopper. I used two F-Clamps.

h) Flat metal strip to use as reference distance from the saw.

i) spray on lubricant for the saw blade

j) file to break sharp corners.

k) brush or vacuum to clear away chips or dust (dust/chips are a suprisingly large source of tolerance error)

*WARNING: DO NOT USE FINGERS TO HOLD DOWN WORKPIECE WHEN SAW IS RUNNING. FINGERS CAN GET LOST OR BURNT.

STEPS:

Step #A: Setup

1. Make sure the saw is OFF. and clear away any chips or dust on the saw bed.
2. Put the saw-sled onto the table saw
3. Sweep away/vacuum away any wood chips

Step #B: Spacing and setting stop block distance to W=23.5mm- 24mm (ROUGH CUT DISTANCE)

1. Raise saw blade high-enough to cut through the aluminum bar-stock.
2. Open jaws of Vernier Calipers to 23 mm and lock..
3. Place the metal strip against the teeth of the saw blade and use it as a refence surface to space the stop block 23 mm from the teeth of the saw blade (a bit of extra is OK, because we can always trim a piece that is slightly too long)
4. clamp stopper in position
5. Remeasure distance of stopper to reference surface using the Vernier calipers to verify that the stop block did not shift during clamping. Distance of stop block should be 23+mm from the saw blade after clamping, and if out of tolerances, then reposition the stop-block and re-clamp.

Step #C: Cut workpiece width down to W = 23+mm (even to 22mm- 22.5mm if you have the confidence)

For the cold-rolled aluminum piece, both sides were already square, flat and parallel.

1. If the edges of the barstock have large burrs/jagged edges from bad cuts, then use a file to deburr the edges/corners of the piece so it can fit more flush against the stopper.
2. Place the barstock against the stopper so it touches. DO NOT KNOCK THE STOPPER OUT OF ALIGNMENT. MAKE SURE TO AVOID TRIMMING LENGTH, OR YOU HAVE TO CUT A NEW PIECE.
3. Clamp barstock in place. Make sure the clamp is NOT in the way of the cutting blade
4. If using the lubricant, spray the lubricant on the teeth of saw blade
5. Make sure your fingers are out of the way. Use hearing and eye protection
6. Turn the saw ON and make the cut to trim the width W. NOTE: The piece has a tendency to float upwards unless clamped down. I use a block of wood to push down the piece while cutting.
7. Turn OFF the saw loosen the clamp on the barstock and let the part cool
8. Deburr the edges and corners with the file AND MARK THE SIDE THAT WAS JUST CUT USING THE BLACK SHARPIE (this is a safety tactic to avoid accidentally trimming height by accident)
9. Inspect workpiece with Vernier calipers
10. DO NOT MOVE THE STOPPER OR ITS CLAMP UNLESS NEEDED)
11. There may be metal pieces embedded between the teeth of the saw. Clear these embedded pieces out from the teeth of the saw blade

Step #D: Use shims to get width cut to W = 22mm-22.5mm in length

1. Measure the WIDTH of piece, and inspect it to see how square it is. Using a saw sled ensures that the side that was just cut should be very square (parallelism within 0.2mm)
2. Clear away dust or chips
3. If the width is wider than 22.5mm, or if the piece needs to be squared, then obtain an appropriate shim. Washers work well if large amounts of length need to be removed. Folded paper works well if thin shims are needed (simply fold the paper as many times as needed.)
4. The side marked with the sharpie should be oriented towards the saw blade.
5. Put the shim between the stopper and the smoothed end of the piece against the shim so it presses against the stopper. If using paper shims, make sure that the paper is folded/stacked very flat.
6. Clamp the piece in place
7. Make the cut. NOTE: The piece has a tendency to float upwards unless clamped down. I use a block of wood to push down the piece while cutting.
8. Clear away any dust or chips
9. Turn saw OFF, unclamp piece and verify that it is both square-enough, and that it is within the width of W=22mm-22.5mm tolerance. If piece is too wide, then use thicker shim and try making another cut. Stay between W=22mm and W=22.5 mm (it's good enough)
10. Clear away any dust or chips.
11. There may be metal pieces embedded between the teeth of the saw. Clear these embedded pieces out from the teeth of the saw blade

In my case, the barstock was 1'x1-1/2" cold-rolled aluminum barstock. This means that the height was already 25.4mm. This is within my tolerance for height of (H = 25mm-25.4mm). I didn't need to do anything.

If you are using some other barstock with different height dimension greater than 25.4mm, then here are the required steps (same as Step #6)

It is recommended to make a first/heavy cut to get the piece HEIGHT down to H = 26+mm, then use light cuts using thin shims to get the part down from H=26+mm down to our specified height of H = 25mm-25.5mm

Tools: Use the same tools as in step #5

Now we use the following tools

a) saw-sled,

b) the table saw with aluminum cutting blade,

c) vernier calipers,

d) Shims (either thin metal pieces like washers, or a piece of paper that can be folded to fractions of a mm in thickness)

e) Some form of stop block. In this picture I have a small rectangular block of aluminum I use as a stopper. In an earlier build, I used a block of wood and I screwed it (temporarily) to the top of the saw sled to make a stop block.

f) Sharpie-black marker to mark the surface. and your primary datum corner. (where datums A/B/C converge).

g) clamp to hold down the aluminum barstock, and the stopper. I used two F-Clamps.

h) Flat metal strip to use as reference distance from the saw.

i) spray on lubricant for the saw blade

j) file to break sharp corners.

k) brush or vacuum to clear away chips or dust (dust/chips are a suprisingly large source of tolerance error)

*WARNING: DO NOT USE FINGERS TO HOLD DOWN WORKPIECE WHEN SAW IS RUNNING. FINGERS CAN GET LOST OR BURNT.

Step #A: Setup

1. Make sure the saw is OFF. and clear away any chips or dust on the saw bed.
2. Put the saw-sled onto the table saw
3. Sweep away/vacuum away any wood chips

Step #B: Spacing and setting the stop block at 26+mm

1. Raise the saw blade high-enough to cut through the aluminum bar-stock.
2. Set the Vernier Calipers to be open to 23 mm.
3. Place the metal strip against the teeth of the saw blade and use it as a refence surface to space the stop block 26 mm from the teeth of the saw blade (a bit of extra is OK, because we can always trim a piece that is slightly too long)
4. clamp the stopper into position
5. Use the vernier calipers to measure again that the NOW CLAMPED stop block is 26+mm from the saw blade (it can sometimes wiggle out of tolerance after being clamped, this is why it needs to be double checked)

Step #C: Cut the barstock width down to W = 26+mm (even to 25mm- 25.5mm if you have the confidence)

In this case, both sides were already cold rolled, so both are square, flat and parallel.

1. If the edges of the barstock have large burrs/jagged edges from bad cuts, then use a file to deburr the edges/corners of the piece so it can fit more flush against the stopper.
2. Place the barstock against the stopper so it touches. DO NOT KNOCK THE STOPPER OUT OF ALIGNMENT. MAKE SURE TO AVOID TRIMMING LENGTH, OR YOU HAVE TO CUT A NEW PIECE.
3. Clamp the barstock in place. Make sure the clamp is NOT in the way of the cutting blade
4. If using the lubricant, spray the lubricant on the teeth of the saw blade
5. Make sure your fingers are out of the way. Use hearing and eye protection
6. Turn the saw ON and make the cut to trim the height H. NOTE: The piece has a tendency to float upwards unless clamped down. I use a block of wood to push down the piece while cutting.
7. Turn OFF the saw loosen the clamp on the barstock and let the part cool
8. Deburr the edges and corners with the file AND MARK THE SIDE THAT WAS JUST CUT USING THE BLACK SHARPIE (this is a safety tactic to avoid accidentally trimming the width by accident)
9. Inspect the barstock with Vernier Calipers
10. DO NOT MOVE THE STOPPER OR ITS CLAMP UNLESS NEEDED)
11. There may be metal pieces embedded between the teeth of the saw. Clear these embedded pieces out from the teeth of the saw blade

Step #D: Use shims to get the height cut to H = 25mm-25.5mm in length

1. Measure the HEIGHT of the piece, and inspect it to see how square it is. Using a saw sled ensures that the side that was just cut should be very square (parallelism within 0.2mm)
2. Clear away dust or chips
3. If the height is higher than H=25.5mm, or if the piece needs to be squared, then obtain an appropriate shim. Washers work well if large amounts of length need to be removed. Folded paper works well if thin shims are needed (simply fold the paper as many times as needed, but keep the paper shim as flat as possible.)
4. The side marked with the sharpie should be oriented towards the saw blade.
5. Put the shim between the stopper and the smoothed end of the piece against the shim so it presses against the stopper. If using paper shims, make sure that the paper is folded/stacked very flat.
6. Clamp the piece in place
7. Make the cut. NOTE: The piece has a tendency to float upwards unless clamped down. I use a block of wood to push down the piece while cutting.
8. Clear away any dust or chips
9. Turn the saw OFF, unclamp the piece and verify that it is both square-enough, and that it is within the height of H=25mm-25.5mm tolerance. If the piece is too wide, then use a thicker shim and try making another cut. Stay between H=25mm and H=25.5 mm (it's good enough)
10. Clear away any dust or chips.
11. There may be metal pieces embedded between the teeth of the saw. Clear these embedded pieces out from the teeth of the saw blade
12. 
    

At this point you have a square piece of aluminum that fits within the L/W/H envelope of

L = 42mm-43mm

W = 22mm - 22.5mm

H = 25mm - 25.5mm

The most critical power tool for this project is not the saw, it's the drill press. Levelling the drill press means that it is possible to level the bed of the drill press and so holes can be drilled straight and parallel downwards

Tools needed:

a) Drill press

b) Steel ruler and level

c) shims (I used steel washers and thin steel sheets)

d) Wrench or Allan keys to loosen the drill press table so it can be levelled as well.

Steps to level drill press column:

a) Lower the column of the drill press

b) Put the level against the drill press column and look at the bubble.

c) If the column of the drill press is not level, then shim the bottom of the drill press until the level shows the drill press column is level. Some drill press designs may have adjustable screws for changing the levels of the base.

Once the drill press column has been levelled, you can reliably assume that it will go straight up and down.

Steps to level drill press table:

d) Once the drill press column is level, put the level on the table of the drill press.

e) If the table is not level, then locate the screws that hold the drill press table at it's current level, loosen them, and adjust the level angle of the table until the level shows it is flat.

f) Once the table is level, re-tighten those screws so the table is now fixed in position.

Now the drill press is level. and the drill press table is level.

We will be marking a single corner as the datum reference. All hole positions will be located relative to this datum point. Mark this corner with a sharpie, and make all holes relative to this single datum point

A 3D printer feeds filament into a heated chamber where it melts and is pushed out the nozzle. If the heat from the heater travels too far past the heat-break, then the filament will melt or soften prematurely, requiring extra effort to push, and it may form plugs and blockages stopping filament from being fed into the nozzle.

The heat break is a tube in the extruder of the 3D printer that is supposed to limit the flow of heat from the heater block to the rest of the 3D printer. They often have a narrow part that reduces heat transfer from the heater block to the rest of the 3D printer. Often heat breaks have active cooling systems like a cooling fins and fan based cooling, or water cooling.

For this project, we are making water cooled heat-sinks that uses a flow of cooling water inside of internal channels to cool the heat-break more effectively than the air cooled heat sinks that were being used before.

The water cooling loop is made by drilling channels into the block, and then either screwing tube attachments to the block, or inserting threaded set screws into the holes to block leak-paths.

Hole #1: is the 6mm mounting hole (same diameter as the one holding the original heatsink onto the heat break)

Hole #2: This hole is for part of the water channel that gets blocked with a setscrew.

Holes #3 & #4: These two holes make most of the water loop, and their leak points get blocked with setscrews

Holes #5 & #6: These are the 1/8-27 NPFT holes drilled into the block where the hose connectors will be attached.

Hole #7: This is the hole for the #6 setscrew that fixes the heatsink into place on the heatbreak.

Hole #1 is the hole where this heatsink will be mounted onto the 6mm OD heat break. The heat break is the tube that connect the heater block to the 3D printer, and it is supposed to prevent heat-flow from the heat block to the filament

The mark of success for this project is

a) The heat sink fits within the required space envelope.

b) The assembled heat sink does not leak.

TOOLS USED:

a) Vernier Calipers

b) fine tipped carbide scribe

c) wood block or rubber mallet to tap on the carbide scribe

d) Center punch

e) hammer

f) Copy of the plans

To mark out the location of hole #1,

1) we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #1 (marking a line at X= 11mm, Y = 9mm)

2) We then used a carbide scribe as a precise punch to make a small but precise centering hole (or more precisely a centering indentation). In our case the carbide scribe had a ceramic magnet on the top, so we could not hit it with a metal hammer. Instead we recommend using a block of wood, or a rubber mallet to tap the scribe into the aluminum block to make the precise centering hole.

3) There is a small centering hole for locating hole #1, but it needs to be larger. Take a center punch, put it in the centering hole, and hit it with a hammer to enlarge the centering hole for hole #1

Now that we have made the centering hole for hole #1 We will drill out a thru hole through the workpiece using a 6mm drill bit.Hole should be at Xcoord = 11mm +- 0.3mm Ycoord = 9mm +- 0.3mm

TOOLS USED:

a) a levelled drill press with levelled drilling platform and drill chuck key.

b) Clamping system (ex: vise). In this case we use a Kant-Twist Quick acting clamp that has been connected to the drill press platform.

c) Brush to remove chips

d) #2 or #3 center drill

e) 6mm drill bit.

f) Cutting fluid

g) countersink (82dg or 90 dg) to manually deburr hole

h) eye and ear protection

Steps

1) MAKE SURE DRILL IS OFF. Clear all chips and dust from the surface of the drill press platform

2) Load the center drill into the drill chuck

3) Put the clamping system onto the drill platform and start positioning the workpiece

4) Position the piece for drilling by manually lowering the center drill bit into the centering hole for hole #1

5) Clamp the piece into position

6) Raise the drill bit, add some cutting fluid over the centering hole

7) TURN DRILL ON. Drill a centering hole in the piece. If using a #3 center drill, then only drill down to make a hole smaller than 6mm in diameter.

8) TURN OFF DRILL.

9) Change the drill bit to 6mm drill bit and re-center the drill bit with the hole

10) Put some cutting fluid on 6mm drill bit and hole in workpiece

11) DO NOT TRY TO DRILL THROUGH PIECE IN ONE GO. Instead peck-drill into the piece so that chips are cleared out regularly. If necessary use more cutting fluid.

12) once drilled though, unclamp the piece, clean up the piece and the platform, and use the countersink to manually deburr the edges of the hole on both sides. Just manually and gently deburr the edges of the hole.

13) To check the hole position, we insert the drill bit into the hole, and use it as a measuring dowel. Use this formula to check if the hole is in the correct pace.

D = drill diameter (which is the same as hole diameter)

Xcoord = x-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

Ycoord = y-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

x = Xcoord + D/2

y = Ycoord + D/2

EX: In this case, given D = 6mm, D/2 = 3mm

& given Xcoord = 11mm+-0.3 & Ycoord = 9mm +-0.3

By inserting the drill into the hole and using the vernier calipers to measure from the datum surfaces to the outside of the drill, we should measure

x=14+-0.3mm = (Xcoord = 11mm+-0.3) + ((D=6mm)/2),

y = 12 +-0.3mm) = (Ycoord = 9mm+-0.3) +((D=6mm)/2)

Hole #2 connects the two sides of the water cooling loop that wrap around the heat break.

(*FATAL) If Hole #2 is out of its positional and cylindricity tolerances. then the drill will cut into the walls of the 6mm hole, or the side walls, and this will destroy the piece (because it will be leaky).

(*EXTRA WORK) If Hole #2 is made too deep and goes out the other side, then it will have to be tapped and plugged on both ends instead of one, which is an additional potential source of leaks (avoid this problem).

This is why it needs to be both within depth tolerances, and within positional tolerances and cylindricity tolerances.

Use the same steps as hole positioning for hole #1.

The mark of success for this project is

a) The heat sink fits within the required space envelope.

b) The assembled heat sink does not leak.

TOOLS USED:

a) Vernier Calipers

b) fine tipped carbide scribe

c) wood block or rubber mallet to tap on the carbide scribe

d) Center punch

e) hammer

f) Copy of the plans

To mark out the location of hole #2,

1) we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #2 (marking a line at Y= 3mm+-0.3, Z = 3.5mm+-0.3). If necessary.

2) We then used a carbide scribe as a precise punch to make a small but precise centering hole (or more precisely a centering indentation). In our case the carbide scribe had a ceramic magnet on the top, so we could not hit it with a metal hammer. Instead we recommend using a block of wood, or a rubber mallet to tap the scribe into the aluminum block to make the precise centering hole.

3) There is a small centering hole for locating hole #2, but it needs to be larger. Take a center punch, put it in the centering hole, and hit it with a hammer to enlarge the centering hole for hole #2

Now that we have made the centering hole for hole #2 We will drill a centering hole using a #2 center drill and a 19.5+-0.5mm deep hole using a #25 drill bit. Hole position for Hole #2 should be Ycoord = 3mm +- 0.3mm Zcoord = 3.5mm +- 0.3mm

TOOLS USED:

a) a levelled drill press with levelled drilling platform and drill chuck key.

b) Clamping system (ex: vise). In this case we use a Kant-Twist Quick acting clamp that has been connected to the drill press platform.

c) Brush to remove chips

d) #2 center drill

e) #25 drill bit (diameter 0.1495" = 3.7973mm).

f) Cutting fluid

g) electric tape to mark drill depth.

h) eye and ear protection

i) manal drill (optional)

Steps

1) MAKE SURE DRILL IS OFF. Clear all chips and dust from the surface of the drill press platform

2) Set the vernier calipers to a length of 19mm, put the #25 drill bit next to it, and now wrap some tape onto the drill bit to mark a depth of 19mm on the #25 drill bit.

3) Load the #2center drill into the drill chuck

4) Put the clamping system onto the drill platform and start positioning the workpiece

5) Position the piece for drilling by manually lowering the center drill bit into the centering hole for hole #2.

5) Clamp the piece firmly in position

6) Raise the drill bit, add some cutting fluid over the centering hole

7) TURN DRILL ON. Drill a centering hole in the piece. just the tip and a little countersink, but kept the center hole diameter under 0.1495" (3.7973mm).

8) TURN OFF DRILL.

9) Change the drill bit to the #25 drill bit marked with the tape at 19mm depth. Verify the drill bit is still centered with the hole.

10) Put some cutting fluid on the #25 drill bit and center hole

11) DO NOT TRY TO DRILL TO DEPTH IN ONE GO. Instead peck-drill into the piece so that chips are cleared out regularly. If necessary use more cutting fluid. Peck drill until the piece of tape (our depth stop touches the surface of the piece).

12) Remove the piece from the clamp, clear away chips from the drilling platform and the surface of the piece, and clear out any chips from the hole (use water if needed).

13) To check the hole depth use the depth measuring end of the vernier caliper to measure the depth of Hole #2 (should be 19.5mm +- 0.5mm in depth)

14) If the hole depth is UNDER TOLERANCE (below 19mm in depth), then put the #25 drill bit back in the drill chuck, and VERY GENTLY drill out the hole until the depth of Hole #2 is between 19mm to 20mm. (CLEAN OUT THE hole regularly and remove from clamping, clean out the hole and recheck the depth as needed. You can even use a manual drill if desired since the hole will already locate the drill.

15) Once drilled to depth we verify the position of hole #2. To check the hole position, we insert the #25 drill bit into hole #2, and use it as a measuring dowel. Use this formula to check if the hole is in the correct pace.

D = drill diameter (which is the same as hole diameter)

Ycoord = x-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

Zcoord = y-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

y = Ycoord + D/2

z = Zcoord + D/2

EX: In this case, given D = 0.1495"=3.7973mm , D/2 = 1.8987mm

& given Ycoord = 3mm+-0.3 & Zcoord = 3.5mm +-0.3

By inserting the drill into the hole and using the vernier calipers to measure from the datum surfaces to the outside of the drill, we should measure

y=4.90+-0.3mm = (Ycoord = 3mm+-0.3) + ((D=3.7973mm)/2),

z = 5.40 +-0.3mm) = (Zcoord = 3.5mm+-0.3) +((D=3.7973mm)/2)

We will skip tapping Hole #2 until all of the holes #3/#4/#5/#6 have been drilled

Holes #3 & #4 are part of the water cooling channel. They drill down into the channel left by hole #2

Hole #7 is used to allow a setscrew to be threaded up to the heatbreak inserted into hole #1 so the heatsink stays in position.

(*FATAL) If Holes #3 or #4 are out of positional and cylindricity tolerances. then the drill will cut into the walls of the 6mm hole, or the side walls, and this will destroy the piece (because it will be leaky). If they go all the way through the piece, then it can't be plugged with a setscrew, because there will not be enough depth it insert setscrews without blocking the water channel made by hole #2.

(*FATAL) If hole #7 is out of positional or cylindricity tolerances, then it could cut into the walls of the water cooling channels and make leak points.

This is why it needs to be both within depth tolerances, and within positional tolerances and cylindricity tolerances.

Use the same steps as hole positioning for hole #1 and hole #2.

The mark of success for this project is

a) The heat sink fits within the required space envelope.

b) The assembled heat sink does not leak.

TOOLS USED:

a) Vernier Calipers

b) fine tipped carbide scribe

c) wood block or rubber mallet to tap on the carbide scribe

d) Center punch

e) hammer

f) Copy of the plans

To mark out the location of holes #3 & #4 & #7,

1) HOLE #3: we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #3 (marking a line at Xcoord= 5mm+-0.3, Z = 3.5mm+-0.3).

2) HOLE #4: we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #4 (marking a line at Xcoord= 17mm+-0.3, Z = 3.5mm+-0.3).

3) HOLE #7: we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #7 (marking a line at Xcoord= 11mm+-0.3, Z = 2.5mm+-0.3).

4) We then used a carbide scribe as a precise punch to make small but precise centering holes (or more precisely centering indentations). In our case the carbide scribe had a ceramic magnet on the top, so we could not hit it with a metal hammer. Instead we recommend using a block of wood, or a rubber mallet to tap the scribe into the aluminum block to make the precise centering holes for Hole #3, Hole #4, & Hole #7.

3) There are now small centering holes for locating holes #3, #4, #7, but they need to be larger. Take a center punch, put it in the centering holed, and hit it with a hammer to enlarge the centering holes for holes #3, #4, & #7

Now that we will drill holes #3, & #4.

GOAL: Drill holes #3 & #4 until they merge with the channel from hole #2

Using our previously made centering indentations for holes #3 & #4, we will drill a centering holes using a #2 center drill and 39mm+-0.5mm deep holes using a #25 drill bit.

• Hole position for Hole #3 should be Xcoord3 = 5mm +- 0.3mm Zcoord3 = 3.5mm +- 0.3mm.
• Hole position for Hole #3 should be Xcoord3 = 17mm +- 0.3mm Zcoord3 = 3.5mm +- 0.3mm.

TOOLS USED:

a) a levelled drill press with levelled drilling platform and drill chuck key.

b) Clamping system (ex: vise). In this case we use a Kant-Twist Quick acting clamp that has been connected to the drill press platform.

c) Brush to remove chips

d) #2 center drill

e) #25 drill bit (diameter 0.1495" = 3.7973mm).

f) Cutting fluid

g) electric tape to mark drill depth.

h) eye and ear protection

i) manal drill (optional)

k) toothpick longer than 30mm

Steps

1) MAKE SURE DRILL IS OFF. Clear all chips and dust from the surface of the drill press platform

2) Set the vernier calipers to a length of 38mm, put the #25 drill bit next to it, and now wrap some tape onto the drill bit to mark a depth of 38mm on the #25 drill bit.

3) Load the #2 center drill into the drill chuck

4) Put the clamping system onto the drill platform and start positioning the workpiece

5) Position the piece for drilling by manually lowering the center drill bit into the centering hole for hole #3.

5) Clamp the piece firmly in position

6) Raise the drill bit, add some cutting fluid over the centering hole

7) TURN DRILL ON. Drill a centering hole in the piece. just the tip and a little countersink, but kept the center hole diameter under 0.1495" (3.7973mm).

8) TURN OFF DRILL.

9) Change the drill bit to the #25 drill bit marked with the tape at 39mm depth. Verify the drill bit is still centered with the hole.

10) Put some cutting fluid on the #25 drill bit and center hole. Put the toothpick into hole #2

11) DO NOT TRY TO DRILL TO DEPTH IN ONE GO. Instead peck-drill into the piece so that chips are cleared out regularly. If necessary use more cutting fluid. Peck drill until the piece of tape (our depth stop touches the surface of the piece). Now keep going slowly until the #25 drill bit breaks through into Hole #2 and the toothpick starts wiggling.

12) Remove the piece from the clamp, clear away any chips from the drill platform, the piece, and from hole #2 and #3.

13) Looking down hole #2, verify by eye that the channel for Hole #3 meets up with the channel for Hole #2 by seeing if a #25 drill bit is pushed into hole #3, that it can reach the center of Hole #2.

14) if necessary, clean up the sides of hole #2 by using the #25 drill bit to clean the sides of hole #2.

15) repeat steps 3 to steps 14 for hole #4

16) Remove the piece from the clamp, clear away chips from the drilling platform and the surface of the piece, and clear out any chips from the hole (use water if needed).

17) 15) Once drilled to depth we verify the position of holes #3 & #4. To check the hole position, first we check to see if there are any breaks in the sides of the walls, then we insert the #25 drill bit into holes #3 & #4, and use it as a measuring dowel. Use this formula to check if the hole is in the correct pace.

D = drill diameter (which is the same as hole diameter)

Xcoord = x-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

Zcoord = y-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

X = Ycoord + D/2

Z = Zcoord + D/2

EX: In this case, given D = 0.1495"=3.7973mm , D/2 = 1.8987mm

& given Xcoord3 = 5mm+-0.3 & Zcoord3 = 3.5mm +-0.3

& given Xcoord4 = 17mm+-0.3 & Zcoord4 = 3.5mm +-0.3

By inserting the drill into the hole and using the vernier calipers to measure from the datum surfaces to the outside of the drill,

For Hole #3: we should measure

Y3=6.90+-0.3mm = (Ycoord = 5mm+-0.3) + ((D=3.7973mm)/2),

Z3 = 5.40 +-0.3mm) = (Zcoord = 3.5mm+-0.3) +((D=3.7973mm)/2)

For Hole #4: we should measure

Y4=18.90+-0.3mm = (Ycoord = 17mm+-0.3) + ((D=3.7973mm)/2),

Z4 = 5.40 +-0.3mm) = (Zcoord = 3.5mm+-0.3) +((D=3.7973mm)/2)

We will skip tapping and plugging Holes #3 & #4 until all of the holes #3/#4/#5/#6 have been drilled

Holes #5 & #6 are the holes that serve as the inlets and outlets for the water flow in the heat sink. The 1/8-27 MNPT connectors fit into these holes to allow water flow from the heatsink to the water recirculation pumps. Hole #5 connects to the channel drilled by hole #3, and hole #6 connects to the channel drilled by hole #4.

(*FATAL) If Holes #5 or #6 are out of positional and cylindricity tolerances. then the drill will cut into the walls of HOLE #7 and make a leak-point, or the side walls, and this will destroy the piece (because it will be leaky). If they go all the way through the piece, then it can't be plugged with a setscrew, because there will not be enough depth it insert setscrews without blocking the water channels. If it is too close the the surface where hole#3 & Hole #4 are made, there may not be enough space for a setscrew to plug the water channels out of holes #3 & #4.

This is why it needs to be both within depth tolerances, and within positional tolerances and cylindricity tolerances.

Use the same steps as hole positioning for hole #1 and hole #2.

The mark of success for this project is

a) The heat sink fits within the required space envelope.

b) The assembled heat sink does not leak.

TOOLS USED:

a) Vernier Calipers

b) fine tipped carbide scribe

c) wood block or rubber mallet to tap on the carbide scribe

d) Center punch

e) hammer

f) Copy of the plans

To mark out the location of holes #5 & #6,

1) HOLE #5: we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #5 (marking a line at Xcoord5= 5mm+-0.3, Y5 = 25mm+-0.3).

2) HOLE #6: we used the vernier calipers to scribe/scratch coordinate lines for hole #6 (marking a line at Xcoord6= 17mm+-0.3, Y6 = 33mm+-0.3).

4) We then used a carbide scribe as a precise punch to make small but precise centering holes (or more precisely centering indentations). In our case the carbide scribe had a ceramic magnet on the top, so we could not hit it with a metal hammer. Instead we recommend using a block of wood, or a rubber mallet to tap the scribe into the aluminum block to make the precise centering holes for Hole #5, Hole #6.

3) There are now small centering holes for locating holes #5, #6, but they need to be larger. Take a center punch, put it in the centering holed, and hit it with a hammer to enlarge the centering holes for holes #5, & #6

Now we will drill holes #5, & #6.

GOAL:

• Drill holes #5 until it reaches the channel from hole #3
• Drill holes #6 until it reaches the channel from hole #4
• The holes have enough space to allow the 1/8"-27 mnpt fittings to both be screwed into the piece.

Using our previously made centering indentations for holes #5 & #6, we will

• drill a centering holes using a #3 center drill
• switch drill bit and use a size Q drill bit (D = 0.332" = 8.433mm to reach the depth of 19.5mm +-0.5mm

• Hole position for Hole #5 should be Xcoord5 = 6mm +- 0.3mm, Ycoord3 = 25mm +- 0.3mm.
• Hole position for Hole #6 should be Xcoord6 = 16mm +- 0.3mm, Ycoord3 = 33mm +- 0.3mm.

TOOLS USED:

a) a levelled drill press with levelled drilling platform and drill chuck key.

b) Clamping system (ex: vise). In this case we use a Kant-Twist Quick acting clamp that has been connected to the drill press platform.

c) Brush to remove chips

d) #3 center drill

e) Size Q drill bit (makes the tap hole for 1/8-27" tap.) (Diameter = 0.332" = 8.433mm)

f) Cutting fluid

g) electric tape to mark drill depth.

h) eye and ear protection

i) manual drill (optional)

j) #25 drill bit (optional: to clean up holes #3 & #4)

Steps

1) MAKE SURE DRILL IS OFF. Clear all chips and dust from the surface of the drill press platform

2) Set the vernier calipers to a length of 19mm, put the Q drill bit (or 3/16" drill bit) next to it, and now wrap some tape onto the drill bit to mark a depth of 19mm on this drill bit. The goal is to connect holes #5 & 6 with channels from holes #3 & #4, without drilling into the channel from hole #7.

3) Load the #3 center drill into the drill chuck

4) Put the clamping system onto the drill platform and start positioning the workpiece for hole #5

5) Position the piece for drilling by manually lowering the center drill bit into the centering hole for hole #5.

6) Clamp the piece firmly in position

7) Raise the drill bit, add some cutting fluid over the centering hole

8) TURN DRILL ON. peck drill a centering hole in the piece. In this case, drill until the flutes on the #3 center drill has entered the workpiece (roughly 16mm)

9) TURN OFF DRILL.

10) Change the drill bit to the size Q drill bit marked with the tape at 19mm depth. Verify the drill bit is still centered with the hole.

11) Put some cutting fluid on the bit and center hole.

12) DO NOT TRY TO DRILL TO DEPTH IN ONE GO. Instead peck-drill into the piece so that chips are cleared out regularly. If necessary use more cutting fluid. Peck drill until the piece of tape (our depth stop touches the surface of the piece).

13) Remove the piece from the clamp, clear away any chips from the drill platform, the piece, and from any of the holes.

14) Looking down hole #5, verify by eye that the channel for Hole #5 meets up with the channel for Hole #3. It should be very obvious that the two channels are connected. DO NOT GO TOO DEEP, OR HOLE #7 WILL BECOME A LEAK POINT. If hole is not deep enough to connect Hole #5 to Hole #3, use hand drill to manually increase depth to necessary depth of 19.5mm +-0.5mm

15) The tape used as drill stops on the size Q-drill are likely to have shifted slightly during use. Please repeat steps #2, for putting the tape stop on the Size Q drill bit at 19mm.

16) Clear any chips from the piece or from the drill press platform, locate hole #6 and clamp the piece down.

17) Repeat steps #3 - #13 for hole #6.

18) Looking down hole #6, verify by eye that the channel for Hole #6 meets up with the channel for Hole #4. It should be very obvious that the two channels are connected. DO NOT GO TOO DEEP, OR HOLE #7 WILL BECOME A LEAK POINT. If hole is not deep enough to connect Hole #6 to Hole #4, use hand drill to manually increase depth to necessary depth of 19.5mm +-0.5mm

19) If necessary, clean up the sides of holes #3 & #4 by using a #25 drill bit.

20) Once drilled to depth we verify the position of holes #5 & #6. To check the hole position, first we check to see if there are any breaks in the sides of the walls, then we insert the size Q drill bit into holes #5 & #6, and use it as a measuring dowel. Use this formula to check if the hole is in the correct pace.

D = drill diameter (which is the same as hole diameter)

Xcoord = x-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

Ycoord = y-coordinate of hole center as measured from datum

X = Ycoord + D/2

Y = Ycoord + D/2

EX: In this case, given D = 0.332"=8.433mm , D/2 = 4.163mm

& given Xcoord5 = 6mm+-0.3 & Ycoord5 = 25mm +-0.3

& given Xcoord6 = 16mm+-0.3 & Zcoord6 = 33mm +-0.3

By inserting the drill into the hole and using the vernier calipers to measure from the datum surfaces to the outside of the drill,

For Hole #5: we should measure

X5=10.2+-0.3mm = (Xcoord = 6mm+-0.3) + ((D=8.433mm)/2),

Y5 = 29.2 +-0.3mm) = (Ycoord = 25mm+-0.3) +((D=8.433mm)/2)

For Hole #6: we should measure

X6=20.2+-0.3mm = (Xcoord = 16mm+-0.3) + ((D=8.433mm)/2),

Y6 = 37.2 +-0.3mm) = (Ycoord = 33mm+-0.3) +((D=8.433mm)/2)

The distance between holes #5 & #6 is

D = SQRT[(Xcoord6-Xcoord5)^2 + (Ycoord6-Ycoord5)^2 ] =

= SQRT[ (20.2 - 10.2)^2 + (37.2 - 29.2)^2 ]

= SQRT[ (10^2 + 8^2)] = 12.8 mm

This distance is important, because the 1/8-27MNPT to 4mmOD pipe adapter (McMaster Carr 7610n112 has a corner-corner diameter of 11.55mm. If the distance between holes #5 & #6 are too close, then these fittings cannot be screwed together into the workpiece.

We will skip tapping and plugging Holes #5 & #6 until all of the holes #3/#4/#5/#6 have been drilled and

Now that we have made the centering hole for hole #7 We will drill a centering hole using a #2 center drill and eithr a #35 drill bit, or a more commonly available 7/64" drill bit. We will drill this hole down to hole #1.

Hole position for Hole #2 should be Ycoord = 3mm +- 0.3mm Zcoord = 3.5mm +- 0.3mm

TOOLS USED:

a) a levelled drill press with levelled drilling platform and drill chuck key.

b) Clamping system (ex: vise). In this case we use a Kant-Twist Quick acting clamp that has been connected to the drill press platform.

c) Brush to remove chips

d) #2 center drill

e) #35 drill bit (diameter 0.11" = 2.794mm) or 7/64" drill bit D= 0.1094" = 2.778mm)

f) Cutting fluid

g) electric tape to mark drill depth.

h) eye and ear protection

i) manual drill (optional)

j) 6mm drill bit (to clean up Hole #1)

Steps

1) MAKE SURE DRILL IS OFF. Clear all chips and dust from the surface of the drill press platform

2) Set the vernier calipers to a length of 32mm, put the #35 drill bit next to it, and now wrap some tape onto the drill bit to mark a depth of 32mm on the #35 drill bit.

3) Load the #2 center drill into the drill chuck

4) Put the clamping system onto the drill platform and start positioning the workpiece for hole #7

5) Position the piece for drilling by manually lowering the center drill bit into the centering hole for hole #7.

5) Clamp the piece firmly in position

6) Raise the drill bit, add some cutting fluid over the centering hole

7) TURN DRILL ON. Drill a centering hole in the piece. just the tip and a little countersink, but kept the center hole diameter under 0.1" (2.54mm).

8) TURN OFF DRILL.

9) Change the drill bit to the #35 drill bit marked with the tape at 32mm depth. Verify the drill bit is still centered with the hole.

10) Put some cutting fluid on the #35 drill bit and center hole

11) DO NOT TRY TO DRILL TO DEPTH IN ONE GO. Instead peck-drill into the piece so that chips are cleared out regularly. If necessary use more cutting fluid. Peck drill until you drill into hole #1 (The tape is a useful secondary reference) (our depth stop touches the surface of the piece). REMEMBER, THIS IS A THIN DRILL BIT AND CAN SNAP MORE EASILY THAN THICKER DRILL BITS. BE CAREFUL.

12) Remove the piece from the clamp, clear away chips from the drilling platform and the surface of the piece, and clear out any chips from the hole (use water if needed). Verify that Hole #7 reaches hole #2. Also verify that Hole #7 does not cut into channels from holes #3, #4, #5, #6

13) if necessary, clean up hole #1 using a 6mm drill bit.

We will skip tapping Hole #7 until all of the holes #3/#4/#5/#6 have been drilled, and we have removed the cut-out block

The piece has a block that needs to be cut out. I prefer to remove this block from the piece after it has been drilled, because it is easier to clamp the piece for precise drilling when it has a rectangular shape, than when it has an odd L-shape.

Care MUST BE TAKEN at this point, to ensure that the piece will not be destroyed with cuts into the vital water channels that can cause leaks, while also ensuring that the piece gets shaped to the proper dimensions.

It is perfectly acceptable to use a drill and hand saw to create initial cuts and remove some initial material prior to using the circular saw. If you only want to do this part by using a hand held saw I do not blame you. You can drill out a large chunk of the block with a drill bit if you are so inclined. Whatever makes this easiest for you.

Tools:

a) Table saw with copper-non-ferrous metal cutting blade & saw stop. Saw stop is mounted on LEFT SIDE of sawblade.

b) black marker/sharpie

c) wood blocks (I used a piece of 2x3 with squared sides, 4" in length, and a piece of 2x2 with squared sides that was 6" in length)

d) vernier calipers

e) cutting fluid

f) hand saw

g) file

h) #8 wood screw (robertson flat-head)

i) 5/32" drill bit

j) #3 center drill

k) C-clamps or F-clamps (x2)

l) paper for use as shims

Steps

1) Read the dimensions and mark out the area to be cut with the black marker. This will prevent you from accidentally flipping the piece the wrong way and cutting into your water channels by accident. Then use the vernier calipers, or a scribe to mark out the outline of the block to be cut out from the piece.

2) (OPTIONAL) If you feel you need cut out the section by hand, then mark-out the areas you intend to cut out, and then carefully use the hand saw and the cutting fluid to cut out your section. Use the file to clean the piece, and to help bring the piece to within tolerance

3) We are going to make a fixture hole in the section that we are going to cut out, and use that to fix the piece into position as we cut out the section We will mark out a hole at the location 7mmx7mm from the end corner. This gives the fixture strong clamping, while also keeping the fixturing screw far from the cutting tool. The fixture ALSO HELPS US KEEP OUR FINGERS FAR FROM THE SAW BLADE.

Use the vernier caliper to scribe the center of this hole, followed by making an indentation using the scribe and the punch like we did for all of the other holes.

4) Once the hole has been marked and indented, drill out the fixturing hole. Use a #3 drill to drill a center hole and a countersink, then use the 5/32 drill bit to drill out the fixturing hole.

5) Now make a wood block jig for making the first cut into the piece. This is Jig1.

Jig1 has three (3) roles

i) Allow us to push the piece against the blade without putting our fingers at risk

ii) Allow us to push the piece over the blade while sliding smoothly over both the table saw platform, and against the saw stop, keeping the piece flush with both surfaces

iii) Prevent the piece from rotating while it is being cut, or being pushed upwards.

In this case we used a piece of scrap 2x3, and a piece of 2x2 to make a jig to push the piece against the saw and used the f-clamps to hold the piece against the saw-stop, so we could drill together a jig that holds the piece flat against the saw-stop and table saw platform.

IMPORTANT: In the case of Jig1,

• datum surface A rests against the saw stop
• datum surface C rests against the floor.
• datum surface B is oriented 180 degrees AWAY from the 2x3 (it is not touching the 2x3) Datum surface B will be the 1st surface that gets cut into by the saw.

DO NOT SCREW UP THE ORIENTATION. We make this the first cut to avoid having heavy cutting forces bend the thinnest part of the work piece. The datum surfaces are THE REFERENCES ON HOW TO ORIENT THE PIECE.

JIG1 assembly steps

a) Verify the wood blocks have squared surfaces

• Verify that the surfaces on the 2x3 are square relative to each-other.
• Verify that the surfaces on the 2x2 are square relative to each-other.

If the surfaces of the wood blocks are not perpendicular to each other (verify using a square) then square the surfaces using the table saw and the saw-sled, or select wood blocks with more squared surfaces

b) Treat the saw stop as if it will be on the LEFT SIDE of the saw blade. It does NOT need to be attached to the table saw during this moment.. Clamp the 2x3 lengthwise against the saw stop, so the 3" wide surface is flush with the floor and the 2" wide surface is flush against the saw stop.

c) place the piece against the clamped 2x3 so that

• Datum surface A is against the saw-stop
• Datum surface C rests against the floor
• Datum surface B must be oriented 180 degrees AWAY from the 2x3 so that it is the first surface to push against the saw blade.

d) Now place the 2x2 wood block against both the piece and the 2x3. The 2x2 square face of the 2x2 touches the floor. another side will touch the

so it can be cut, place the 2x2 block against both the piece and the 2x3and clamp the piece and 2x2 wood block to the saw stop

c) tap the piece with either a block of wood or a soft mallet until it is flush against the floor and both wood blocks

d) screw the 2x2 wood block to the 2x3 wood block (use 2 screws minimum)

e) screw the piece into the 2x3 block with a #8 screw using the fixturing hole.

f) remove the clamps

In my case, the piece was leaning down a bit, so I added a fixturing point where I could clamp it flush against the 2x3 and with a c-clamp and make a more even cut into the piece.

6) Now that the jig has been made, we will make our first cut on the saw. Raise the saw so that it is 17.5mm up from the platform. We can increment it up after our first cut. but for now keep it below 18mm. You can use the vernier calipers to get a rough height of the saw, then make a test cut into a scrap piece of wood to know the final depth.

7) Now set the saw stop approximately 7.5mm from the LEFT SIDE OF THE SAW BLADE. The dewalt saw I use has a tape measure line. In my case I also used the vernier calipers.

I put the saw-stop against the blade, then put down the vernier calipers onto the saw table platform so the bottom of the gauge was placed against the teeth of the blade, and the depth stop of the vernier calipers was against the saw stop. I then zero the vernier calipers by pressing the "ZERO" button. Now I moved the saw stop 7.5mm from the blade and LOCKED THE SAW STOP IN POSITION.

8) Now oil the blade with some cutting fluid

9) Turn the saw ON, and make the first cut. Do it twice. It is OK that you are cutting into the wooden jig.

10) TURN SAW OFF. Clean up the chips from the piece and the table saw.

11) Measure the cut. If the cut is below 18mm adjust the blade up slightly and make a cut for depth on a piece of scrap wood to verify it is at 18mm +1mm. If the distance from the saw stop is out of the required tolerance of 7.0+-0.2 then either adjust the position of the saw stop, or shim the piece using flat pieces of paper. Make the 2nd cut to get the piece within tolerance.

12) Once the 1st cut is within tolerances, remove the piece from the jig, and reconfigure the jig to make Jig2 for the 2nd cut.

Jig2 has the following orientation/characteristics

IMPORTANT: In the case of Jig2,

• datum surface A is oriented 180 degrees from the floor
• datum surface C rests against the saw-stop.
• datum surface B is oriented 180 degrees AWAY from the 2x3 (it is not touching the 2x3) Datum surface B will be the 1st surface that gets cut into by the saw.

a) Remove the screw holding the piece to the jig, and remove the 2x2 from the 2x3.

b) Treat the saw stop as if it will be on the left side of the saw blade. Clamp the 2x3 against the saw stop, so the 3" wide surface is flush with the floor and the 2" wide surface is flush against the saw stop.

c) place the piece against the clamped 2x3 so that

• Datum surface A is 180 degrees from the floor
• Datum surface C rests against the saw stop
• Datum surface B is oriented 180 degrees AWAY from the 2x3 so that it is the first surface to push against the saw blade.

d) Now place the 2x2 wood block against both the piece and the 2x3. The 2x2 square face of the 2x2 touches the floor. another side will touch the piece, and the third side touches the 2x3 wide surface of the 2x3. Clamp the 2x2 against the piece so both the 2x2 and the work-piece are clamped against the saw-stop.

e) tap the piece with either a block of wood or a soft mallet until it is flush against the floor and both wood blocks

d) screw the 2x2 wood block to the 2x3 wood block (use 2 screws minimum)

e) screw the piece into the 2x3 block with a #8 screw using the fixturing hole.

f) if necessary, place a block of wood against datum surface A and screw it in piece against the rest of the jig to keep the piece from bouncing upwards during cuts.

g) remove the clamps

13) Jig2 is now complete and The piece is now set for a 2nd cut.

14) We will set the height of the saw blade at 17.5mm high

15) We will set the saw-stop as being 17.5mm FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SAW BLADE. Lock the saw stop into position.

16) Now oil the blade with some cutting fluid

17) Turn the saw ON, and make the first cut. Do it twice. It is OK that you are cutting into the wooden jig.

18) TURN SAW OFF.

19) Measure the cut. If the cut is below 18mm adjust the blade up slightly and make a cut for depth on a piece of scrap wood to verify it is at 18mm +1mm. If the distance from the saw stop is out of the required tolerance of 7.0+-0.2 then either adjust the position of the saw stop, or shim the piece using flat pieces of paper. Make the 2nd cut to get the piece within tolerance. If you are not comfortable making additional cuts, then skip to hand filing.

20) Remove the piece from the jig. If the piece is out of tolerance (not enough material removed) then get a hand file and file away at the surfaces until they are within tolerances (I had to do that. It's easy enough to do, and won't take too long).

21) If the piece is out of tolerance (TOO MUCH MATERIAL REMOVED) verify that it does not have any obvious leak points. It may still be good, just with walls a bit thinner than designer comfort level.

22) Use a file and smooth away any rough burrs.

23) clean up the table saw

24) clean out any chips inside the piece.

We will now tap all the holes. We clamped the piece in place and tapped holes #2,#3, #4 (10-24 tap), holes #5 & #6 (1/8-27 NPT pipe tap), and Hole #7 (6-32 using extended length 6-32 tap).

Materials:

a) Clamp

b) cutting oil/tapping fluid

c) brush to clear chips

d) paper towel to clear chips

e) 10-24 standard tap

f) 1/8-27 tapered pipe tap

g) 6-32 extension tap (this is not the standard tap that is included in most tap and die sets. Those cannot tap deep enough to get through the full length of hole #7. DO NOT USE STANDARD 6-32 tap)

h) vernier calipers

i) hand drill

Steps:

a) Load the 10-24 into the drill

b) Clamp the piece so that Hole #1 can be tapped. Put some cutting fluid on the tap, and tap Hole #1 to a depth of between 5-8mm in depth with the 10-24 tap. Remember to peck-tap (go in a small amount, then reverse the drill bit and pull out the chips, wipe them away then go back in until the proper depth has been reached).

Clean up all chips.

c) Clamp the piece so that Holes #2 & #3 can be tapped. Put some cutting fluid on the tap, and tap Hole #2 to a depth of between 5-8mm in depth with the 10-24 tap. Remember to peck-tap (go in a small amount, then reverse the drill bit and pull out the chips, wipe them away then go back in until the proper depth has been reached). Repeat the process with hole #3.

Clean up all chips

d) Replace the tap in the drill with the 1/8-27 tapered pipe tap.

e) Clamp the piece so that Holes #5 & #6 can be tapped. Put some cutting fluid on the tap, and tap Hole #5. The 1/8-27 tap should feed into the piece until only 6-7 threads on the tap are visible outside the piece.

DO NOT GO DEEPER. THIS TAP IS TAPERED AND WILL MAKE THE HOLE TOO WIDE TO BE LEAKPROOF.

Remember to peck-tap (go in a small amount, then reverse the drill bit and pull out the chips, wipe them away then go back in until the proper depth has been reached). Repeat the process with hole #6.

Clean up all chips.

f) Replace the tap in the drill with the 6-32 extended tap. YOU CANNOT USE A STANDARD 6-32 TAP INCLUDED IN MOST TAP AND DIE KITS. THEY WILL NOT TAP HOLES DEEP ENOUGH FOR THIS PURPOSE.

g) Clamp the piece so that Holes #7 can be tapped. Put some cutting fluid on the tap, and tap Hole #7 all the way though (the tap should feed deep enough into hole #7 that the tap will touch the other side of hole #1).

Clean up all chips.

h) Remove the piece from the clamp, and wash out all chips from inside all the holes and let the piece dry.

The 1/8"-27 MNPT to 4mm tube adapters are fitted into the tapped holes #5 & #6. To keep the setscrews from popping out we use a high-temperature threadlocker (Loctite 246) to glue the setscrews in place and keep them from vibrating out over time. Loctite 246 is strong enough to serve as a thread sealant and glue the setscrews in place, but it is still possible to use hand-tools to undo screws that used Loctite 246.

Materials:

1) Loctite 246

2) 1/8-27 MNPT to 4mm tube press fit adapters. McMaster Carr 7610N112 (QTY = 2): Universal-Thread Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting for Air and Water, Stainless Steel, Straight, for 4mm OD, 1/8 Pipe Size

3) pipe cleaner

4) paper towels

5) rubber gloves to keep loctite 246 off your hands

6) Adjustable wrench

Steps:

a) Wash out any chips from the workpiece and put on the gloves

b) apply some loctite 246 to both the inside of holes #5, & #6, and also to the threads of both 1/8-27 tube fittings.

(Try to avoid dripping too much loctite into the hole and covering the holes. This may insulate the heatsink and reducing the thermal conductivity)

c) thread the fittings into the holes until tight. Use wrench.

d) wipe away the excess loctite 246

e) Use the pipe cleaner to clean out the water channels.

(PLEASE NOTE: THE LOCTITE 246 NEEDS 24 HOURS TO REACH TO THE PEAK STRENGTH)

The 10-24 x 1/8" setscrews are fitted into holes #2,#3,#4 to serve as plugs to prevent water leakage. To keep the setscrews from popping out we use a high-temperature threadlocker (Loctite 246) to glue the setscrews in place and keep them from vibrating out over time. Loctite 246 is strong enough to serve as a thread sealant and glue the setscrews in place, but it is still possible to use hand-tools to undo screws that used Loctite 246.

Materials:

1) Loctite 246

2) 10-24 x 1/8" long setscrews

3) paper towels

4) rubber gloves to keep loctite 246 off your hands

5) Allan Key

Steps:

a) Wash out any chips from the workpiece and put on the gloves

b) apply some loctite 246 to both the inside of holes #2, #3, & #4, and also to the threads of the 10-24 x 1/8" setscrews.

(Try to avoid dripping too much loctite into the hole and covering the holes. This may insulate the heatsink and reducing the thermal conductivity)

c) thread the fittings into the holes until flush with the surface by using the allan key.

d) wipe away the excess loctite 246

e) Use the pipe cleaner to clean out the water channels.

(PLEASE NOTE: THE LOCTITE 246 NEEDS 24 HOURS TO REACH TO THE PEAK STRENGTH)

Now we test to see if the assembly is watertight.

E3D water cooling Kit includes:

- 1x 12V Reservoir-Pump

- 1x 12V Radiator-Fan

- 2 x Cables with Molex connectors

- 1 x Silicone tubing (OD: 8 mm; ID: 5 mm) 1.2 m

- 1 x Nylon tubing (OD: 4 mm) 1.2 m

- 1 x Fixings Kit

- 2 x Tubing adaptors

- 2 x Collets + Collet Clips

Additional tools:

1) exacto blade for cutting lengths of tube

2) the two fully assembled workpieces with fittings

3) water, to test water cooled fittings. Do not use coolant yet.

4) 12VDC power supply for the water cooling pump, and possibly for the cooling fans

Steps:

In this case, we didn't connect the cooling fan.

a) Cut two (2) 3-4" length of 8mm OD-5mmID silicone tube

b) Cut three (3) 5-6" length of the 4mm OD nylon tube (the hard tube)

c) Connect the two silicone tubes from the pump to the each of the two (2) tubing adaptors (the fitting that is a hose barb on one end for the 8mm silicone tubing, and a connector for the 4mm OD nylon tube to fit into)

d) Connect one 4mm nylon tube between both of the two (2) workpieces. Fit the 4mm nylon tubes completely deep into the fittings, because it will be a leak-point otherwise if it is inserted, but not yet FULLY inserted.

e) Connect the other two 4mm OD nylon tubes to the remaining connector pieces on the workpieces. Make sure they are FULLY INSERTED.

f) Connect the other ends of the 4mm nylon tubes to the adaptors on the ends of the 8mmOD silicone tubes. Make sure the nylon tubes are FULLY INSERTED.

g) Connect the power supply to the pump, set it to 12 VDC, and turn the power supply on.

h) Verify that the water is circulating around, and that it doesn't leak from the connectors.

*NOTE: In this case there were three (3) issues of note

1) There was a leak from one of the connectors attached to a workpiece. In this case it was because the nylon fitting was NOT YET fully inserted.

2) There was some excess loctite inside the workpieces. It was flushed out while the pump was operating, and needed to be cleaned off the inside of the water reservoir of the pump.

3) The water loop had been assembled to test one of the workpieces, and the water was left over the summer before we made the 2nd piece. During this time there was some biofouling where some yeast or scum grew in the tank. Add some biocide like alcohol to the cooling liquid if left alone long-term, or drain the tank.

We cannot use the Raise3D Pro2 to power the water cooling system.

Both the cooling fan and our pump use 12 VDC power. Unfortunately the control board on our Raise3D Pro2 CANNOT source enough amps of current to power our water recirculation pump and our water cooling fan. This means that even if we make a spliced cable to the Raise3D heater control board(*3), we would be unable to use that connection to draw enough current to power our external cooling equipment.

For this setup I have a 12VDC power supply wired to both the pump and the water cooling fan, and plugged into the same powerbar that feeds power to my Raise3D pro2 printer.

NOTE1: The main cooling fan has to be disconnected from the heater control board, but the left & right cooling skirt fans have to stay

NOTE2: I had previously damaged my heater block heaters so I had to replace them. If your heater blocks were already connected properly, then simply unplug the main cooling fan from the board and remove the fan. Do not rewire the heater cartridge wiring or the thermocouple wiring unless needed. Most people can simply replace the previous heatsinks with the new heatsinks without needed to replace wire connections to anything except the main cooling fan.

NOTE3: The connectors for the fans on the Raise3D pro2 heater control board are JST-XH 2.5mm connectors. If you want to connect to them use JST-XH extension cables from digikey (Digikey part-number 1528-5497-ND).

We also cannot add the water cooled heatsinks unless we remove the left and right cooling skirts in order to get at the mounting collars.

Tools:

a) Allan Key set included with the Raise3D pro2

b) Wire cutters (for cutting the twist ties holding cables together

c) this flat screwdriver (for unscrewing the wires connected to terminal blocks that need changing)

d) zip ties (3) to replace the zip-ties that we cut.

Steps:

a) Remove the filament from both the left and right extruders

b) TURN POWER OFF, UNPLUG IF DESIRED!!!!! (I've shorted the 10A fuse on the Raise3D pro2 control board by dropping the extruder control board after it has been removed while the power was on and causing a short. The main board uses 10A and 15A automotive blade fuses in case you blow a fuse. Do not blow a fuse by working on the wiring while the power is on.).

b) Remove both left and right fan skirts. Unscrew them both so you can access the collars that attach the left and right heater blocks onto the 3D printer. Save all your screws and pieces.

c) unscrew the screws that hold the main cooling fan attached the the 3D printer. pull off

• the grate
• The fan
• the fan holder that the fan was mounted on.

Once the fan holder is removed you can see the mechanism that raises and lowers the two extruders.

d) Loosen the collars on both the left and right extruders so that they can be withdrawn from the 3D printers.

e) Locate the connection on the control board where the main cooling fan is located. Unplug that connector. In my case I undid the screws connecting the filament drivers so I could access the board and change the cables for the left extruder heater and left extruder thermocouple in addition to removing the fan connector. Lifting this part off made it easier to remove the cable for the front cooling fan.

f) remove the cabling for the main cooling fan. If the cables are zip tied together, then remove the zip ties, remove the fan cable, and re-zip tie the cable assembly for ease of management.

Now we are in assembly mode.

In my case I had to attach a new heat block with thermocouple and heater cartridge after breaking the thermocouple while extracting it from a used (covered in melted plastic) heater block. You can keep using tyour previous heat-block/thermocouple/heater-cartridge/wiring. Simply loosen the setscrew holding on the previous air cooled heatsink, and replace it with the water cooled heatsink.

Materials:

a) Raise3D Pro2 heat-block (with 0.4mm brass nozzle and heat break for standard 1.75mm filament)

b) Raise3D Pro2 silicone sock (to help insulate the heater)

c) Raise3D pro2 Heater cartridge

d) Raise3D Pro2 thermocouple

e) Our liquid cooled heat-sink

f) 6-32 x 3/16" setscrews (x2)

g) OPTIONAL: 1/16" thick alumina oxide tape (cut into 1/2 wide sections x2) Mcmaster carr 87575K84

h) Optional: Kapton tape.

Tools:

i) Allan Keys (1/16" allan key for the 6-32 screws)

j) Allan Key (1.4mm for the setscrews in the heater block)

Tutorial:

The following link is the Raise3D guide to changing the heating block in their 3D printers. Read through it before this tutorial to have a general understanding of how to change a heat-block in a Raise3D pro2 3D printer..

https://support.raise3d.com/Pro2-Series/replacing-thermocouple-and-heating-rod-4-93.html

Steps:

1) Make sure the silicone sock is removed from the heat-block

2) Loosen the setscrew on the air-cooled heatsink with the 1.4mm allan key and slip it off (keep it for later in case this doesn't work out)

3) Fit the heat-brake through the 6mm hole in the water cooled heatsink, until the bottom of the 6mm portion of the heatbrake is flush with the bottom of the heatsink. Remember, the water cooling fittings must be facing UP./ away from the heating block), and be in front. Add a small drop of loctite to the setscrew and Insert the first #6-32 x 3/16" screw into the heatsink, until it fixes the heatsink to the heatbrake. .

3) 3D printing is messy. The filaments melt and get all over the heater block. To keep 3D printer filament from going down the 6-32 hole on the heatsink and making it difficult to change/adjust the heatsink, we plug the 6-32 hole in the heatsink with a 2nd setscrew to keep out melted filament. Put a drop of loctite on the 2nd 6-32x3/16" setscrew and fit it so it is flush with the hole. Now melted filament cannot ooze into the 6-32 hole on the heatsink.

4) You have completed the steps for connecting the water cooled heat-sink onto the heaterblock.

5) Fit the throat of the left heat-break back into the left extruder's collar, and tighten. Fit the throat of the right heat-break back into the right extruder's collar, and tighten using the allan key.

6) gently try and wiggle the heatsinks. They should not wiggle around.

7) Reattach the silicone socks onto the heat breaks.

The cooling fan and cooling pump need to be wired up to a 12VDC power supply and put on a mounting. I used a 12VDC wall wart powerr supply capable of supplying 3Amps that I spliced in to power both the fan and the pump simultaneously.

Materials: (these are included in the E3D cooling pump kit)

a) E3D cooling pump

b) E3D cooling fan

c) 8mmOD / 5mmID silicone tubing

d) tube adapters (5mm hose barb to 4mm tube)

e) pump mounting clips

Materials (Extra bits required)

f) Wood for making the mounting

g) 12VDC wall wart capable of supplying min 3@ (minimum 36 watt 12VDC power supply) (Available everywhere). Make sure the cable is at least 48" long.

h) soldering iron/solder/flux

i) red and black heat-shrink tubing (I like marine heat-shrink tubing with the glue)

j) Digital multimeter

k) zip-ties

l) knife for cutting off extra from zip-tie

Instructions:

a) Take the wall-wart, make sure it is unplugged, and cut off the end of the power connector cable. Make sure that at least 45" of cable is still attached to the wall-wart.

b) separate the ends of the cable and use the digital multimeter to find the +12VDC cable, and the GND cable on the wall wart. Identify the 12VDC cable as RED, and the GND as BLACK.

c) Slip a length of RED heat-shrink tubing on the +12 VDC cable of the wall-wart, and a length of BLACK heat-shrink tubing on the GND cable of the wall-wart.

d) Expose some of the copper at the ends of the RED wires of both the cooling fan and the cooling pump. (Note the pump has a white wire. I ignored it)

e) Twist the exposed ends of the RED wires of both the cooling pump and the cooling fan together with the 12VDC wire of the wall-wart. Apply some flux, wrap some solder wire around the twisted splice, and solder all three wires together.

f) when the solder joint has cooled, slip the RED heat-shrink tube up over the solder joint, and heat up the heat-shrink with the soldering iron.

g) Slip a length of BLACK heat-shrink tubing on the GND cable of the wall-wart.

h) Expose some of the copper at the ends of the BLACK wires of both the cooling fan and the cooling pump.

i) Twist the exposed ends of the BLACK wires of both the cooling pump and the cooling fan together with the GND wire of the wall-wart. Apply some flux, wrap some solder wire around the twisted splice, and solder all three wires together.

j) when the solder joint has cooled, slip the BLACK heat-shrink tube up over the solder joint, and heat up the heat-shrink with the soldering iron. Now when the wall-wart is plugged in, it will power both the cooling fan and the cooling pump at the same time.

k) Build a wooden mount for mounting both the cooling pump and the fan. Use you own judgement for placement of pump and fan.

l) cut silicone tubing and attach the fan to the pump INLET.

j) cut tubing and connect the other fan connection to an adaptor (5mm hose barb to 4mm tube).

k) use twist ties to secure tubing to the hose barbs of the fan. Cut off excess zip tie bits using the knife,

l) cut a final length of silicone tubing and connect PUMP outlet to an adaptor (5mm hose barb to 4mm tube).

Prior to levelling the bed, we will attach the water cooling loop. This is to prevent heat-creep when levelling the printer bed. The water cooling loop cools both heatsinks at the same time.

Materials:

a) E3D water cooling kit (or any appropriate substitute) https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/e3d-water-cooling-kit?variant=7498713956388 with mounting and 12VDC power supply from previous step

b) TUBE #1 : 8" of 4mm OD /2.7mm ID nylon tubing (QTY = 1)

c) TUBE #2 & TUBE #3: Assumed 32" (*) length of 4mm OD / 2.7mm ID Nylon tubing (QTY = 2)

*: The lengths of TUBE #2 & TUBE #3 are measured based on where the cooling fan & cooling pump will be located.

d) small twist ties (min qty = 5 - 10)

e) transparent clear cooling liquid with microbicide (otherwise you get gross yeasts growing in the cooling reservoir. EWW). https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_1408&item_id=200667

f) Knife for cutting tubing and zip-ties

STEPS

1) Find a good mounting place for the cooling fan and cooling pump that does not interfere with opening the doors to change filaments, or make it difficult to remove/ attach the cover. Anchor the cooling pump and cooling fan in this location. If necessary, make a small mounting stand for them.

Make sure the cooling pump is EMPTY and the pump and cooling fan are UNPLUGGED. I wired up a 12 VDC@3A wall-wart to power my cooling fan and cooling pump simultaneously.

2) cut an 8" length of 4mm OD nylon tubing (TUBE #1) and feed it into connectors on both heat sinks (both the Right and left heatsink should be connected by this tube). Push TUBE#1 in all of the way into both fittings or coolant will leak.

4) Cut two lengths of the same 4mm OD nylon tubing that can reach from the cooling system to the heat sinks no matter where the 3D printer heads are located. I used two (2) 32" lengths, and ran them parallel to my bowden tubes.. Connect TUBE#2 from water cooler pump outlet to the RIGHT heatsink,

Connect TUBE #3 from the LEFT heatsink, to the cooling fan.

5) Use the zip ties to keep the tubes from flopping about. loosely zip tubes together so they do not flop around too much. See the attached pictures

6) Fill the pump with the cooling fluid (DO NOT USE COLOURED COOLING LIQUID, IT IS AN EXTRA MESS IF IT SPILLS). Note, my cooling pump system is plugged into the same power bar that the printer is plugged into, so when I turn on this power bar, it turns on my printer. In my case I spliced in a 12VDC power supply into both the fan and the pump at the same time. The pump is so quiet (compared to the fans in the Raise3D Pro2) that you have to touch the pump to feel the vibrations it makes when it is on.

7) Turn pump on and let it run for 10 minutes to see if any leaks occur.

8) If no leaks, then turn on extruder to 250oC for 10 minutes and see if the heatsinks leak at the elevated temperature.

9) If no leaks, then you can level the print bed and the nozzles.

Now we will level the print bed. Simply follow the Raise3D pro2 bed levelling and nozzle levelling instructions given here.

https://support.raise3d.com/Pro2-Series/bed-leveling-calibration-4-225.html

here is a youtube video on the subject.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf_sV6OUGlQ

Now you can print a test model.

If you feel the pump, the liquid is only slightly warm even after printing for over an hour at 235oC.

Now that the cooling system was designed, built, installed and tested, the final step is to figure out a good scientific method of determining how much of a speed improvement I can achieve with this new cooling system.

I am currently unsure how to get started and would love any advice on what steps I can take to test the ways I can improve the print speed.

Special thanks to Paul Yarnall for providing the inspiration for this project by posting his water cooling system on the Raise3D Pro2 forums.

The design and tools used should work for both aluminum and copper heatsinks.

Please feel free to add constructive criticism on any part of my project. I welcome both positive and instructive-negative feedback. Just be nice.