Walnut Wall Clock, With a Splash of Geek
by kludge77 in Circuits > Clocks
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Walnut Wall Clock, With a Splash of Geek
This is a turned walnut wall clock with an inset CD.
For this project you will need some materials:
A blank that measures, 10" square by 3/4 thick. (This can very depending on how think an outer ring you want)
A CD (I microwaved mine for 3 seconds)
Super Glue
Clock moment (Klockit.com has great prices)
Tools:
Lathe with at least a 10" swing
Turning tools
Table saw or hand saw
3/8 drill bit
Bench chisel
hand drill
forstener bit
Lets get started....
For this project you will need some materials:
A blank that measures, 10" square by 3/4 thick. (This can very depending on how think an outer ring you want)
A CD (I microwaved mine for 3 seconds)
Super Glue
Clock moment (Klockit.com has great prices)
Tools:
Lathe with at least a 10" swing
Turning tools
Table saw or hand saw
3/8 drill bit
Bench chisel
hand drill
forstener bit
Lets get started....
Preparing the Clock Blank
I didn't have a 10" square blank, but I did have a 5" wide walnut board.
I cut down two pieces to 10" long on my table saw. You could also do this on a miter saw, radial arm saw or even with a hand saw.
I then jointed one edge of each 5" board to give me a clean glue joint. Again I used my table saw, but a jointer, router or even a hand place can clean up an edge to give you a gap free glue joint)
I applied glue and clamped the boards in place. I waited 4 hours for the glue to dry before attempting to turn.
I cut down two pieces to 10" long on my table saw. You could also do this on a miter saw, radial arm saw or even with a hand saw.
I then jointed one edge of each 5" board to give me a clean glue joint. Again I used my table saw, but a jointer, router or even a hand place can clean up an edge to give you a gap free glue joint)
I applied glue and clamped the boards in place. I waited 4 hours for the glue to dry before attempting to turn.
Cutting Corners
I cut the corners off at the band saw.
On a 10" square blank this will add a lot a stability to the turning, allowing you to turn at higher speed and cutting quite a bit of time roughing the blank to round.
I then centered the blank on my 3" faceplate and secured it with 4 wood screws
On a 10" square blank this will add a lot a stability to the turning, allowing you to turn at higher speed and cutting quite a bit of time roughing the blank to round.
I then centered the blank on my 3" faceplate and secured it with 4 wood screws
Turning the Clock
Rough turned the clock until it is round and spinning true.
I used a bowl gouge, but a roughing gouge could also be used.
Clean up the edge and add a profile detail it you like. I went with about a40 degree chamfer on the back and a round over on the front edge.
Then flatten the front with your scraper or bowl gouge and sand the project. I went up to 400 grit.
I used a bowl gouge, but a roughing gouge could also be used.
Clean up the edge and add a profile detail it you like. I went with about a40 degree chamfer on the back and a round over on the front edge.
Then flatten the front with your scraper or bowl gouge and sand the project. I went up to 400 grit.
Adding the Recess
Cut a recess in the front that will hold the CD flush with the clock face. I used my square nose scraper for this. A parting tool or skew on it's side would work as well.
A CD is about 4 5/8" wide so if you start with a 4 1/2 circle and widen as you go you can get a tight fit. Stop your lathe and check frequently.
Lastly drill a 3/8 hole all the way through your clock. This is where the movement will go.
A CD is about 4 5/8" wide so if you start with a 4 1/2 circle and widen as you go you can get a tight fit. Stop your lathe and check frequently.
Lastly drill a 3/8 hole all the way through your clock. This is where the movement will go.
Recess for Clock Movement
The clock movement I bought was about 3/4 thick. That means that my wall clock would have sat 1 1/2" off the wall. I didn't like the look of that at all.
So I cut a 5/8 pocket into the back of my clock for it to recess. If you get a smaller movement with a longer shaft, you can skip this step.
I used a sharpie to outline the movement and forstner bit to remove most of the waste.
The rest was cleaned up with a bench chisel.
So I cut a 5/8 pocket into the back of my clock for it to recess. If you get a smaller movement with a longer shaft, you can skip this step.
I used a sharpie to outline the movement and forstner bit to remove most of the waste.
The rest was cleaned up with a bench chisel.
Finishing the Clock
You're almost done!
I then attached my microwaved CD with 4 drops of medium CA (any superglue would work) and let it sit for 15 minutes
I then assembled the clock movement from the manufactures directions and added the hands.
Lastly I put a coat of wipe on polyurethane on the walnut.
Hung and enjoyed.
Here is a video I made of the process
I then attached my microwaved CD with 4 drops of medium CA (any superglue would work) and let it sit for 15 minutes
I then assembled the clock movement from the manufactures directions and added the hands.
Lastly I put a coat of wipe on polyurethane on the walnut.
Hung and enjoyed.
Here is a video I made of the process