Wall Mounted Blanket Ladder

Since getting settled in our new home, my wife and I have been creating things to make our home more cozy and practical while adding to the early farmhouse vibe (we bought an early 1900's farm home). One thing we wanted / needed was a place to store our throw blankets, and we really liked the look of ladders leaning against a wall. Unfortunately we don't have a lot of floor space, so the leaning ladder was out.

Thus this project! Instead of finding / making a ladder, I created a wall mounted ladder-like storage rack for blankets that has a rustic vibe, is super functional, but doesn't take up any floor space. Through this instructable, I'll be sharing the materials, tools, plans, and methods I used to create it, happy making!

To create this blanket holder, I used the following materials:

• 1" x 8" x 8' (nominal) pine board
• 1" x 6" x 5' (nominal) pine board (I used scraps I had)
• Stain (color of choice, I used honey), or paint and brushes / rags
• Sealer (if stained....I used satin polyurethane) & brushes / rags
• Paste Finishing Wax & steel wool / rags
• Wood Glue
• 1" self tapping pocket screws
• Drywall Screws & Anchors

I also used the following tools:

• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Miter Saw
• Scroll Saw
• Handheld Router
• Roundover Router Bits
• Standard pocket hold Kreg Jig
• Electric Palm Sander / Sand Paper
• Drill Press / Handheld Drill
• Countersink drill bit / plug cutter
• Clamps

I have hyperlinks for the supplies and tools I used placed throughout the steps of this instructable below.

Before beginning to construct this project, I drafted a model in the Onshape CAD program to plan it all out. If you're interested in learning more about Onshape, check out this instructable I put together a while back, as well as these guiding tutorial videos on my youtube channel.

I considered a lot of different options in the design, ranging from straight side rails to slanted ones that would better mimic a ladder leaning against the wall to the layout of the hanger rails. I considered having the bars inline, but I worried the blankets would overlap too much. I also considered staggering the bars (1st set in, 2nd set out, 3rd in, 4th out) but decided it would be too difficult to get the blankets in place. Creating models in CAD let me visualize all of these options before getting into fabrication. In the end, I decided to go with straight side rails and tiered hanging rails, as well as rails that run across the back to fix the hanger to the wall.

I then used Onshape to create a technical drawing that included key measurements and a cut list based on my final 3D model to make fabricating easier.

Once the cut list was put together, it was time to start fabricating! I first ripped the 1" x 6" x 5' piece of pine to make two ~1" x 1.875" x 5' that would be used for the four hanging rails and two mounting rails.

Then using a miter saw, I cut the 1" x 8" x 8' piece of pine to make the two 1" x 8" x 46" pieces for the two side rails. 8' is the nominal width, the actual width is ~7.25".

Also using a miter saw, I cut the 1.875" wide boards into six pieces that are 18" in length. There will be some scrap left over, set it aside as we will be using it in a later step.

Next, I began to add some detail by created rounded corners and edges. First using a scroll saw, I cut the outer corners off of the side rails. I drew one corner, then used the scrap as a template for the other. Once one piece was cut, I traced it onto the second side rail to mirror it. You could do this same type of cut using a bandsaw, or a handheld jig saw, or even a coping saw, but I love the Rockwell blade runner. I think it's technically a scroll saw but I find it to be far more durable and more capable as its more like a jigsaw mounted upside down to a table. I highly reccomend it for any DIYer!

Once the corners were cut, I used an oscillating spindle sander to smooth them out. This could have been done by hand, or even using a template / router table instead.

Next, I used a handheld router to put rounded edges on all the exposed corners (not the edges that will be touching the wall during installation). On the side rails and mounting rails, I used a 1/4" roundover bit to put a smaller rounded edge. On the hanging rails, I used a 5/16" roundover bit to put a larger rounded edge on the four corners of each rail. This will create a gentle and smooth area for the blankets to drape over.

We're not quite ready to assemble just yet, that will come in a later step. Now it's just time to get the pieces ready to be assembled by creating the different types of joints we will use. I decided to combine a few different methods of joinery to fit the appearance I was going for, as well as to support the functionality of the hanger.

The hanger will be fixed to the wall using two mounting rails that span across the back. I started by drilling four pilot holes (two in each rail) using a 3/8" countersinking bit. I then used a standard pocket hole kreg jig to create pocket holes on the back of the mounting rails which will later be used to join them to the side rails. Once assembled, these pocket holes will be against the wall and completely hidden.

I didn't want to use pocket screws anywhere else, or anywhere near the blankets as I didn't want any edges to catch the fabric. Instead, I decided to use screws covered with plugs. This will allow for the hanging rails to be easily attached using screws, then the screws will be covered using plugs without creating any exposed edges or joints that the blankets could catch on. To assist with layout and positioning, I first marked one side rail using the measurements from my CAD drawing, then placed little templates I made to mark the spots for the pilot holes. Once marked, I drilled holes in the side rail using the same countersinking bit from earlier. When one rail was done, I used it to mark the second by laying the two side rails on top of each other. These holes will be plugged after assembly.

An alternative method with a similar result would have been using dowel pins between the hanging rails and side rails. Alternatively, dado joints could also have been created between the rail pieces. In the end I went with screws and plugs because of the resources I had available, ease of use, and also because I thought the plugs would add a slightly more industrial / rustic look when finished.

Before assembly, its super important to sand your pieces thoroughly! This is something I often skipped, or only partially did when I was a total novice, but it really adds difficulty in later steps and makes a lesser quality product. Sanding not only smooths the wood which makes a nicer finish, it also prepares the wood to take on a stain or paint more evenly which you will appreciate in the long run. Additionally, this project will be holding soft and fuzzy blankets so creating a smooth surface was even more important than in other types of furniture / shelf-like projects.

Starting with 120 grit sand paper and a handheld palm sander, every single surface and edge was sanded. This grit should do a good job at removing major dents, imperfections, and manufacturing marks. I then sanded everything again using 220 grit paper to create an even smoother finish. You could go to a higher grit, but its mostly likely not necessary for most paint, stain, and polyurethane applications.

For the rounded edges, I took the time to go over everything by hand sanding. This is tedious, but I find I can get a much higher detail and cleaner result when I can feel the material, as well as keep a better eye on it during sanding.

In addition to self tapping pocket screws, every joint also has some wood glue to ensure a strong bond. In reality, the screws are really just holding the parts together while the glue dries. If attached well, the glue will create an incredibly strong bond once dry.

Using clamps to assist in stabilizing everything, I was able to glue / screw the hanging rails to one side rail loosely using self tapping screws, then the other side rail. Once both rails were loosely fixed, I went around and snugged all the screws making sure everything was straight and square. No need to over tighten, you will risk cracking your material or stripping the screw holes.

After the hanging rails were attached, I installed the mounting rails using the pocket holes to the top / back and bottom / back edges of the side rails. I mounted these rails after the hanging rails because the placement is less crucial and the pocket holes are more forgiving than the countersunk holes we created earlier.

Once assembled, I created plugs using the piece of scrap pine we set aside earlier and a plug cutting bit. The plugs can be installed into the countersunk holes using a dab of wood glue.

Lastly, it's important to go and sand all of the joints / assembly areas to remove any excess glue that may have dripped during the assembly process. Attempting to stain over glue will not work, and you will have light patches where you missed sanding! I used my handheld palm sander for larger surfaces, then folded sandpaper to sand corners and edges by hand.

There are countless ways to finish a project, and really it comes down to personal preference as to which you should choose. For this project, I used the same stain / poly method as some of the other furniture I made so this blanket hanger would match.

Using the honey color of Varathane interior wood stain (Home Depot's brand) and a rag, I applied an even coat of stain to all sides of the hanger, including the back. Even though it's not visible, evenly staining and finishing wood is important to seal it properly. Overall, I have been less than impressed with the Varathane product line and prefer Minwax products, but the interior color stain seems to work ok. No need to over do it, putting too much stain on will just leave uneven marks across your project. Apply as many light even coats as you would like until you are satisfied with the color!

I haven't had good results using the Varathane polyurethane or poly + stain combo, even when using a pre-stain conditioner, so I used Minwax Satin Polyurethane to seal my hanger after the stain had dried (about 12 hours). Using a stain brush, I applied one even coat, the a second after the first dried on the all sides. After the second coat dried, I lightly sanded the outer sides (not the back) using a fine scrubbing pad. After wiping off the dust, I applied another coat of poly using a brush. I repeated this sanding / coating method two more times until there were five coats on the outer sides of the project (including the two original coats). I didn't do this on the back as it was already sealed from the first two coats, and would be hidden during installation. Applying more coats of polyurethane gives you a more durable and professional appearing finish. As this hanger is going to be used daily, I wanted to protect the wear and tear parts of it thoroughly.

Once the final coat of poly has dried fully, I applied a finishing wax using steel wool to create a moisture resistant and smooth finish. Like waxing a car, there's no need to over apply or put on a super thick coat of wax as you're going to end up buffing most of it off. Once a light and even coat is applied, use a rag to buff the wax to remove any excess and to create a smooth final finish.

Once an ideal location is found, I used a stud finder to find studs I could mount the hanger to. Ideally, something this large would be at least partially fixed to studs as it's going to get pulled on frequently when a blanked is hung / removed. I lined the left side of my hanger up with a stud so two of the four mounting holes went into studs using 3" drywall screws. 

For the other side and remaining two holes, I used my favorite twist and lock drywall anchors to attach the hanger to the wall. These come with silver screws, but I instead used black drywall screws to fix to the anchors so both sides would match. I decided not plug the mounting holes after installation, but instead left them open for a more rustic look.

Once installed, its time to enjoy! I fold my blankets in thirds to hang them easily over the hanger rails. I thought folding the blankets in half was a bit too wide for my wall, and folding in quarters makes the blanket too thick. The distance between the rails also varies a bit to allow for different thickness blankets. You can modify my dimensions to suit your blankets better, but I have my thinner / lighter blankets at the top, then the heavier ones at the bottom.

Personally, I find that the cheaper, simpler, and more functional projects like this one tend to be my favorite. I hope you've enjoyed reading, and also that the guides, tips, and designs shared assist you in your own projects! Thanks for reading and happy making!