WRX/STI Hatchback Key Fob V2

This began as a passion project involving a die cast car turned into a key fob for my 2011 Subaru WRX, which turned into a lieu of requests to make it available for other WRX Hatchback owners. The fob is almost fully functional, except for the panic button, which I am working on an update to this design to include it.

If you happen to run across this and haven't gotten a Fob Kit, or have any questions, you can reach out to Orvil.tarango360@gmail.com

Provided in the WRX/STI Hatchback Fob Kit V2:

• 1/64 Scale Diecast Shell
• Battery Insert (3D Printed)
• Mock PCB (3D Printed)
• Base Assembly (3D Printed)
• Buttons (3D Printed)
• 1/64 Scale Wheels (11mm Diameter)
• Eye Hook Pin Screw
• Key Ring
• M2x6 Hex Screw
• 1.5mm Hex Key

Not included:

• Wire Cutters
• Super Glue
• Ruler
• Small Flat Head or similar small prying tool
• Possible: Sand paper (No lower than 80 grit)

Optional:

• Subaru Key Fob (Not affiliated, its just where I bought my spare)

To begin:

• Take out all of the contents from your Fob Kit.
• You're going to want to get the wire cutters and super glue for the wheels.
• Take the battery out of the fob you're going to use

If you are going to paint the shell or do any modifications to it, I would suggest you finish assembling the fob and making sure it works properly before doing so.

Remove the wheels from the original chassis and with the wire cutters, snip them down the middle. With the axle through the wheel, measure about 6mm or a 1/4in of exposed axle.

Before you slide the axle through the designated holes in the 3d printed assembly, coat the axle rod on the end going into the assembly with super glue. Once pushed in, use the provided hex key to push the axle all the way in until the wheel is snug against the assembly, but has enough play for the wheel to spin freely.

Once inserted, put a drop of superglue in the holes (shown above) of the assembly where the rods are exposed. You can use a toothpick or super glue with a brush to push in the glue deeper.

When all of the wheels are complete, set the base assembly aside and allow the glue to dry at least thirty minutes to an hour before continuing.

Note: If you have third party wheels with a separate axle like these (not affiliated), you will need to glue the axle into the wheels, and then cut off the excess axle so that it can be glued into the 3d printed assembly.

If you haven't already, now is the time to disassemble your OEM fob and remove the PCB (Printed Circuit Board), battery, and wire connector.

Warning: Be careful when removing the wire connector to avoid bending it. I found it best to pop out the prongs first, and then pulling it out from the insert it's in with a flat head or a thin prying tool.

The battery insert provided is laid out exactly like the OEM fob and will be assembled the same way.

Place the wire connector into the insert pushing in from the middle to avoid bending it. Once it's in far enough, place the prongs into their respective place where they will make contact with the battery. You can use the battery to make sure the wire connector is sitting flush.

Place the battery in with negative facing the open side (visible to you) and set the Battery Insert aside.

Before this step, even if the glue has dried, handle the wheels carefully to avoid breaking the super glue if less than 24 hours after the glue was applied.

With the buttons in their respective holes, place the PCB button-side down, tucking in the rear (narrower) side first before laying the rest flat. The PCB should be parallel with the base of the assembly.

To assemble; begin by placing the windshield into the shell in its respective place.

With the windshield placed flush into the shell, take the battery insert with battery facing outwards (exposed) and tuck it between the screw post and rear of the shell. The prongs should line up with the opening [license plate slot] in the rear.

The Base Assembly should've been completed in the previous step with the PCB inserted into the Base ready for assembly.

Take the die cast shell assembled with the battery insert and hold it upside down as to not drop the insert (although it should fit snug enough to not fall easily) and bring it towards the Base Assembly connecting the rear of the Base Assembly inserting first. The rear of the Base Assembly has a notch that fits perfectly into the license plate opening at the rear. This is where you will join the two parts, bringing the base into the shell clamshell-style.

Important Note: The base with the PCB should fit snug into the shell but not forced. If it feels like the PCB is going to break, take it out and observe for excess board, past the circuitry (Example shown in photo). If excess found (more than 24mm or .95in) sand down the edges of the PCB, but be VERY careful with the circuitry, distinguishable by extruded, different colored lines.

Once you have the parts assembled, use the provided M2x6mm hex screw (the one in the ziplock bag) and the 1.5mm hex key to secure the assembly into the shell.

Provided is an eye hook pin screw and key ring that you may install into the license plate notch to use as a key ring.

I personally like the minimalist look of carrying the die cast fob without a keychain, its up to you how you use it!

Once everything is assembled and ready, go to your car and make sure it works!

Disclaimer: You now have a DIECAST key fob, so the signal will be weaker than the OEM plastic fob. Meaning you have to be much closer [15-25ft] to the car for the signal to actually reach. So far this has not been an issue, but it can be inconvenient if you happen to forget to lock your car and are halfway through the parking lot.

Congratulations, you now have a unique addition to your car, make it yours! There are many ways to customize and change the style just like you would with your car.