WOESH: Metro Juggle

The Metro Juggle is an accessible circus machine designed for people with reduced mobility or coordination. It involves two participants: one stands or sits at the front of the base, and the other at the back. They alternately push the pipes towards each other, requiring coordination and timing. This rhythmic interaction creates an engaging performance.

The Metro Juggle promotes cooperation and communication while sharpening motor skills. The colorful ends of the pipes help participants quickly identify which pipe to push. To provide a better understanding of how the Metro Juggle works, we have created a video that further explains its use.

To ensure we proceed correctly, we'll start by accessing the files on this Google Drive:(https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_LsoQwOzRg6QFm2Y3hA_GO0OoACUjFOh?usp=sharing). In the "CAD-files" folder, you'll find a STEP file of the entire assembly. This file will help us keep track of each part of the build as we progress.

In the next steps, we'll prepare our 3D print and laser-cut files. Expect to spend at least 14 hours on 3D printing, using approximately 650g of filament. Printing these components at home will be significantly cheaper than using a Fablab's machines or a 3D printing service. Additionally, you can anticipate about 90 minutes of laser cutting.

For this project, we will need to 3D print some files in PETG (you can also use PCTG or ASA if preferred). These files are located in the "3D-prints" folder. The cutting tools can be printed with standard settings on your 3D printer, as they are only used to guide you while using the bandsaw. However, to ensure the stability of the device, we need to pay extra attention to the strength settings of the other parts. The specific settings to adjust are illustrated in the picture above.

Dont forget to 3D-print the Lock and the C-clips in the folders.

Next, we will also need to 3D-print some TPU parts for our PVC clamps. These files will require support and 100% infill. Any additional necessary information is illustrated in the picture above.

For the box and other crucial parts of the assembly, we will need to cut some pieces from a 12mm wooden slab. There are two ways to do this. If you have a laser cutter capable of cutting through 12mm plywood, we recommend using it for precise cuts. If not, you can either etch the pattern onto the wood with a laser cutter or, as a last resort, print the templates on paper and trace the lines with a bandsaw.

Laser files and templates can be found in the folder "Lasercutter".

For the padding on the poles, we are going to lasercut a pattern out of a yoga mat. Alternatively, this pattern can also be cut regularly with a cutterknife.

This file can also be found in the folder "Lasercutting".

This step we are cutting the PVC pipes to length:

2x Diameter 50 mm PVC 320mm

2x Diameter 50 mm PVC 1500mm

1x Diameter 40 mm PVC 526mm

Next use the 3D printed tools to cut the slits in the pvc tubes fot the C-clips as shown below. For the placement of the slits, refer to the technical drawing in the "Technical drawings"-folder.

At this point in time, all preparations have been made and with all 3D- printed, lasercut and storebought components we should be ready to assemble. please check with the image above wether you have every component.

For this step we will need:

• 4 3D-printed lock pieces
• 2 triangular sidepanels
• 4 wood screws

We will assemble and attach the locks to the two side panels of our box. First, place the inner ring on top of the outer ring. Next, align the outermost diameter of the locks with the curve at the point of the triangle. Clamp the locks onto the side panel and secure them in place with two 3.5x20 screws. Repeat this process for the other side panel. You should end up with two identical pieces.

For this step we will need:

• 2 (Corner-) Clamps
• 2 Sidepanels
• 2 rectangular panels
• 1 Bottom panel
• 20 nails 30mm

First, we start by clamping the bottom panel to the two rectangular panels so the indents face away from the bottom panel. Now we attach them to each other with five nails evenly spread over the length of the rectangular panel, into the side of the bottom panel.

Repeat this step for the other side.

Put the three panels we just conjoined on their side and place the triangular side panel in the middle of the construction. This action is illustated above. Make sure the bottom of the box is aligned with the edge of the side panel. Attach the side panel to the other piece with five nails: one in each of the rectangular panels and three evenly spread in the bottom panel.

Repeat this step for the other side.

In the next steps we are going to assemble the joint that will hold both ends of the PVC cantilever.

This will require:

• 12 3D-printed parts
• 4 wooden parts
• 32 screws 4x25

For this step, we will need the glue gun. Plug it in, load a glue stick in the back, and let it warm up in a place where the dripping glue will not cause any damage.

For this step, we need: PETG clamp, PETG bolt knob, TPU protector, M8 nut, and the M8 bolt.

We will begin the assembly of the PVC clamp. Start by inserting the TPU protector into the designated holes. (This step can be left out, but you risk damaging the PVC over time.) Next, insert the M8 hex nut into the rectangular-shaped hole. Push the nut down until you can see all the threads through the hole on the side. Now, insert the bolt into the nut.

If everything is in place, use hot glue to fill the top sides of the hole for the hex nut and the TPU protector to lock them in place effectively.

Lastly, insert the bolt into the knob and add hot glue on top to keep it in place.

The result should look like the image above.

Assembly of Hinge

1. Preparation:

- Ensure the wooden connector pieces have their pre-cut holes. If they do not, you can drill them using a 2.5mm drill bit, the printable guide, and a center punch.

- Once the holes are in place, use the counterbore to add a chamfer to the outside of the connector pieces.

2. Attaching the 3D Prints

- Screw the 3D prints to one of the connector pieces as illustrated in the image below. Ensure both clamps have the bolt facing the same way; this will affect the ease of assembly when finished.

- Confirm that the prints are mounted properly to the connector pieces (this means no gap between print and wood; do not use excessive force).

3. Partial Screw Placement:

- Partially put in the screws on the other side so the points just peek out. This makes alignment with the piece we just made easier.

- Place the second connector on the other side of the prints and fully screw the screws into the plastic. In total, there should be four screws in each 3D printed part (except for the TPU prints).

4. Final Touches:

- Add the handles to the bolts with a drop of superglue for easy handling.

Now, you should have two assembled hinge constructions, looking like the second illustration below.

For this step we will need:

• 2 cutout of yoga mat
• 2x PVC dia.50 1500mm
• Superglue

The final addition is a yoga mat serving as a handle or shock absorber for the PVC tube. Any PVC yoga mat with a thickness between 5 and 15mm can be cut with a laser cutter. Please administer some tests to dial in the settings of your laser cutter for PVC foam. If you wish to avoid this process, you can print the guide on an A3 sheet of paper and use a cutter knife to cut out the shape for the handles.

This should Complete every part of the device. In the next step, we will set it up for use

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DlR_6lfsQ4&ab_channel=Aimyl