Vulcanus V2 Reprap 3D Printer

Hi,
Now I'am 17 and here is my new 3D-Printer called Vulcanus V2. This printer based on corexy and has the option to use a dual bowden extruder. The buildvolume is 170*300*250mm. So it can print big parts like multicoper parts. It also has a 32-Bit electronic and diy heatbed so it is optimised for materials, which needs a heated bed. But my main goal was to build a professionell opensource 3D-Printer.

(If you can't see the interactive 3D model above, its probably because
you're not using a WebGL-enabled browser, or you're using the Instructables Mobile app)

Extrusions

I bought my aluminium extrusions from SMT-Montagetechnik, it is cheaper, when you buy 20x1m and cut them at home for your perfect lenght. Here are the sizes for the extrusions:

Nuts and Screws

The cheapest shop in germany, which I found out, to buy screws in VA!!! is Kleinteileversand, but this online shop has only screws greater than M5, so you have to buy the other screws/nuts from your local hardwarestore (in my case Hornbach)

Linear Motion

For the Linear Motion, I use 12mm smooth rods for the X/Y-Movement and 16mm smooth rods for the Z-Axis, so I got a really rigid linear motion system.

For the Vulcanus V2, I used a DIY 32-bit electronic, which works pretty well. I'am using Nema 17 Motors and an E3D V6 Hotend. Here are all the electronic parts which are needed for the Vulcanus V2:

To have a better view to the 3D-Model, please download my Fusion 360 File. There you can also export all the OBJ-Files for your 3D-Printing software and see where they are located in the printer.

You can print all parts with 20% Infill at 0.3mm Layer High

##If you have problems with getting the part, feel free to contact me##

At first you have to cut a M5 tread in the extrusions, so you can use the M5x10mm screws to join the extrusions together. To make your own T-Slot nuts, you have to grid the "normal" M5 hexnuts

For this step you need:

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I made a picture gallery, where you can see how to build up the main frame with out any problem. Because it is very hard to explain, where you have to drill the holes for the connection between the extrusions, you can download the Fusion 360 File, where you can see in detail where the parts have too be :-)

For this step you need:

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-At first you have to insert two M4x30mm Screws to the "X-end screw" printed part. After that put a washer on one screw. Than add one 624 and one F624 to that screw. For the other screw, you have to add first a self-locking nut and than the F624/624 Bearing. After that add the washer. You have to make this step two times.

- Finally, you take the 12x530mm smooth rod and connect them to the "X-end screw" printed part by using the "X-end nut" and 24x M3x30mm Screw + 24x Hex M3 Nut.

For this step you need:

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-At first you have to join the "Motor" and the "Idler" to the 12x400mm smooth rods. Then you build in the Idlers like in the previous step. You build the Idlers as seen on the pictures (M4x45mm Screws, selfloking nut, F624 Bearing, 624 Bearing, selflocking nut, "Idler nut" printed part, M4 hex nut)

For this step you need:

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This is one of the easiest steps :-)

You simply have to insert the X/Y Axis to the main frame, by using M5x10mm Screw and the modified hex nuts

For this step you need:

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You connect the Nema 17 Motors to the "Motor printed part by using 8x M3x6mm Screws. After that you can mount the pulley to the motor shaft

For this step you need:

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-At first you have to insert two M3 Hex Nuts for the "Belt-Tensioner" in the "X-Carriage nut/screw". After that you can attach the belts to the "X-Carriage nut/screw". Then you have to screw the "X-Carriage nut/screw" together, by using six M3x30mm screws + nuts. After taht you can attach the belt to the X/Y Axis. If you don't know how to connect the belts this could help : COREXY

For this step you need:

#########################################################

-At first you have to connect the Nema 17 Motor to the "Z-Motor" printed part by using four M3x10mm Screws. After that you take the 16x440mm smoot rods and join them to the "Z-Axis Holder nut/screw" printed part. You can connect the parts by using 16x M3x30mm Screws and 16x M3 Nut.

For this step you need:

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-At first you have to put the LMK16LUU into the "Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts. Then you fix the LMK16LUU with eight M4x16mm srcrews. After that you insert the 292mm Extrusions to the Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts. You fix them with four M5x10mm screws.

For this step you need:

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-At first you have to put the lead screw nut into the "Z Axis Nut" printed parts. Then you fix the lead screw nut with four M4x16mm srcrews. After that you insert the lead screw to the nut. After that you join the lead screw to the motor by using the 5x8mm axis coupler.

For this step you need all of the aluminium plates. For the dimensiions please look at my Fusion 360 File, where you can see the exact dimensions. You connect all the plates with M4x6mm screws to the aluminium extrusions.

At first you have to connect the 300mm extrusions with the aluminium plates by using M5x10mm Screws. After that you screw the table to the Z-Axis with eight M5x10mm screws.

I'am using a geared bowden extruder, because of two reasons. First: a geared extruder has so much more torge than a direct drive. Second: I want to reduce the weight of the X-Carriage, so I can print faster with less "ghost-lines".

I installed the extruder with an angle bracket and four screws.

You can download the Extruder from RichRap's Thingiverse Page

For this printer I'am using the Original E3D V6 All Metall Hotend because I want to print more ABS, but when you only want to print PLA, you can buy a Hotend from Aliexpress is better, because it has a PTFE Inliner, which is perfect for PLA prints. Because so many people ask me in the Vulcanus V1 for a Dual Extruder, I designed a dual bowden Hotend X-Carriage. So you have the option to use a dual extruder.

To mount the E3D V6 to the X-Carriage, you take the "Hotend clamp" printed part, connect it with your E3D V6 and screw it with three M3x30mm screws together. You can install the wires trough the "cable channel" next to the "bowden channel". You have a better view of the wire-channel, by looking at my Fusion File.

I made a DIY Heated-bed, because the MK... heated beds are to weak. Often they have less than 100W Power and didn't reach 100°C. So I build my own out of an old transformator coil. Which can heat up to 100°C in less than 10 Minutes, which is really fast for me.

At frist you have to mesure your diameter of your wire in my case 0.7mm. After that, you should metioned about how much power your heated bed should generate. I made a heated bed with 240W, so I need 13m of the wire. Then, you made a bed of nails, for the wire. After that, you fix your wires with kapton tape. To fix the wires to the aluminium plate, you have glue a layer of kapton tape to the aluminium plate, then you can fix the the wires to the aluminium plate by using another layer of kapton. Don't forget to insert the termistor in your bed. Finaly, you have to connect the wires with thicker wires for the electronics. For this step I'am using a wire connector out of pertinax.

To connect the heated bed to the Z-Table, I use three M3x30mm screws with three screws. You connect them to the table by cutting a M3 thread inside the extrusions.

For this step you need:

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-At first you have to desolder the mosfets from your ramps 1.4 (in my case IRF3205 Mosfets). You build up your own mosfet PCB, because the mosfets needs at least a 5v Gate Voltage and the Arduino Due has a 3.3V Logic Voltage. So these Mosfet are not compatible. To solve this problem, I made a PCB with optocouplers. See pictures and PDF to see how I build it.

After that you have to remove the 5V Pin, CAN TX, CAN RX and the DAC1 Pin from the Ramps 1.4. Also you have to cut the 5V Line at the bottom left of the Ramps 1.4, because the DUE operates with 3,3V and 5V will damage the Arduino. See pictures where the pins are located.

Also I had problems with my TMC2100 motordrivers, because I have killed some of these by simply moving the axis. I think this happened because of induction current. To prevent this, you can simply solder 2 fast Diodes on every coil of the motor. See on the pictures/PDF how I installed the Diodes.

After these hacks, your Ramps 1.4 should work fine with the Arduino Due and the TMC2100

This is one of the easiest steps :-). You just have to connect the green wire with one of the black wires. You can do that with a brigde at your connector, or you can open your ATX solder the black and green wire together and desolder all wires you didn't need.

You only need the Black, Yellow and Red wires.

Yellow has a voltage of 12V which you use for the RAMPS 1.4 and my "Mosfet PCB"

RED has a voltage of 5V which you use for power the Orange PC.

Black is Ground

I mounted the electronics on a sheet of wood at the left site of my printer, Under the sheet you can Install you Powersuppy.

Endstops:

X-Axis: You have to glue your Endstop inside the "X-Carriage-Top" printed part.

Y-Axis: You can use one zip tie, to connect the Endstop to the Y-Axis smooth rod.

Z-Axis: You can use the printed part "Z Endstop" to connect the Endstop to the Z-Axis smooth rod

At first you have to take a look at my Fusion 360 File for the dimensions of the aluminium plate. So you know the dimensions, where you have to cut the Alumnium. After that you add the LCD to the Alumnium plate, you make a "LCD-PCB" behind the LCD, because there you can adjust the contrast of the LCD. Also you have to intall the Encoder and the "Back-Button".

Once you have screw the Alumnium-Front plate to the Frame, you can remove the safety foil from the alumnium plates.

Hint: Test the LCD before you connect the front-plate with the frame !

Then you have to open Marlin4Due Firmware. And go under RAmps4Due pins.h . There you can see where you have to install the wires from the LCD to the hacked-Ramps 1.4.

"

.......

#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#ifdef NEWPANEL

#ifdef PANEL_ONE

#define LCD_PINS_RS 32

#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 47

#define LCD_PINS_D4 45

#define LCD_PINS_D5 43

#define LCD_PINS_D6 41

#define LCD_PINS_D7 39

#else

#define LCD_PINS_RS 32

#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 47

#define LCD_PINS_D4 45

#define LCD_PINS_D5 43

#define LCD_PINS_D6 41

#define LCD_PINS_D7 39

#endif

........

"

You can also use your costom pins, by simply changing the pin number.

I'am using Marlin4Due from Wurstnase for my Printer, because it has a great support for hacked RAMPS 1.4 Electronics. You simply have to choose Ramps4Due at the configuration.h.

At fist you have to set the Baudrate to 115200, because I hade problems with 250000 with the OrangePi:

#define BAUDRATE 115200

Then you have to choose you Motherboard:

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS4DUE

#endif

After that chose your Termistor, because I am using an E3D V6 Hotend, you can use Termistor Typ 5:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

Then you have to enable CoreXY Movement

#define COREXY

and configurate the Endstops:

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false #define DISABLE_Z false

After that you have to set your Limits/Homedirections:

#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1

#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. #define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// @section machine

// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)

#define X_MIN_POS 0

#define Y_MIN_POS 0

#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_POS 300

#define Y_MAX_POS 180

#define Z_MAX_POS 250

Now you are nearly finished with the configuration. At last you have to enable the Panel One:

// PanelOne from T3P3 (via RAMPS 1.4 AUX2/AUX3)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/PanelOne

#define PANEL_ONE

Now you are finish and you can upload the Firmware to your Arduino

The Orange Pi is a mini Computer with a 1.6GHz-Quadcore Prozessor and 1GB RAM, which only cost 16€ in Total. Here I will show you, how to install Ubuntu and the Repetier-Server on an Orange Pi PC.

At first you have to download Loboris image for the Orange Pi PC called"OrangePI-PC_Ubuntu_Vivid_Mate.img.xz"

from GoogleDrive

After that you have to unzip the .xz File, for that step you can use for example 7Zip

After you have extracted the image, you can burn it to a SD-card, by using the Win32-Diskimager

Once you have burned the image to the SD-Card, insert it to the Orangepi and start it. Now Ubuntu should ask you for an Password which is "orangepi".

Then you have to open the Terminal and enter "sudo fs_resize" and then "sudo reboot".

Aftter the reboot, you have to oben the Terminal and enter "wget http://download.repetier.com/files/server/debian-

armhf/Repetier-Server-0.65.0-Linux.deb

Once the download is completed, you type in "sudo dpkg -i Repetier-Server-0.65.0-Linux.deb"

Now you server should allready run. To get access to the Server you should need to know the ip-address of your Orange-Pi. So you type into your terminal "sudo ifconfig" and you should see your ip-addresse unter eth0, if you are using a wire connection like me :-)

So you Type into your browser from your main computer "Your IP:3344". And you should see the RepetierServer webpage.

But you also want to shutdown you server, so you have to create a XML-File (extcommands.xml) in the database subdirection /var/lib/Repetier-Server/database .

Then you copy this Text from RepetierServer under Adavanced Setup , Into the extcommands.xml. Now you should be able to shutdown and reboot the server from the web-domain.

Be glad, you made your own Vulcanus V2 3D-Printer. :-)