Vintage Laser-Cut Leather US Mail Bag
by fractalsuar in Craft > Leather
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Vintage Laser-Cut Leather US Mail Bag
Created my own version of a vintage leather US Mail Bag. This is a laser-cut and hand-stitched bag that will hold a 15.6" laptop. It has plenty of pockets to keep essential items organized. Pattern to laser-cut or hand-stitch your very own bag is available in my Etsy shop ProfesoraLeather (https://www.etsy.com/shop/ProfesoraLeather) Created with 5-6 oz vegetable-tanned leather and hand-stitched with strong waxed polyester thread. It's a beautiful bag that will last a lifetime.
The pieces to assemble this bag were cut with a laser. Using a laser not only cuts the pieces but also cuts all the holes for stitching. For this reason, stitching the bag is more like lacing than actual stitching. Lasering also gives you the flexibility to be creative and add engravings like the US Mail logo on the front of the bag.
All pieces for this bag were cut on a table-top laser, ie Glowforge.
This tutorial begins after leather is cut and dyed and does not go over how to attach rivets or sew using a saddle stitch.
Bag Dimensions
16" x 11" x 5"
Supplies
Glowforge Table-Top Laser used to cut all pieces- https://glowforge.us/f/YPEFQACW
Appx 15 sq ft of Vegetable-Tanned Leather 5-6oz https://tandyleather.com/collections/leather/produ...
Leather Skiver - https://smile.amazon.com/Skiver-3025-00-Replacemen...
Waxed Polyester Thread- like Ritza Tiget Thread .8 - 1.0 mm https://www.etsy.com/listing/273458016/tiger-threa...
Needles - https://smile.amazon.com/Hekisn-Professional-Large...
Copper Rivets and Setter- https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MFNW9DC?pf_...
End Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/KNIPEX-68-01-160-Cutters/...
Maul or Hammer - https://smile.amazon.com/AIBER-Leathercraft-Wooden...
2- 1" D-Rings https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074M8Z9LS/ref...
2- 1" Conway Buckles https://smile.amazon.com/Springfield-Leather-Compa...
1- 1" Roller Buckle https://smile.amazon.com/Multi-Pack-Stainless-Buck...
2- Sam Browne Buttons https://smile.amazon.com/outstanding-5x7x7mm-Brown...
2- 1" Heavy Duty Swivel Clasp Hooks https://smile.amazon.com/Mandala-Crafts-Lobster-Ba...
1- 1" Leather Strap https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B084FYCV7Q/ref...
Skive Edges
In order to minimize bulk when stitching it is best to skive each edge that has stitching holes. A skiver has a very sharp razor blade and it shaves the leather as you pull it towards yourself. Be careful not to take off too much. Removing about half of the thickness of the leather should be enough. Skiving is easiest done on a hard surface like a piece of glass or stone. You can also cut down on bulk by using a thinner leather for interior pockets.
Assembling the Gusset
The gusset gives the bag its depth. This bag uses a 3-piece gusset that is both riveted and stitched using a saddle stitch. First attach the pieces together using 3 rivets on both sides then sew both above and below the rivets on both sides.
Inner Pocket Assembly
The inner pocket consists of 4 pieces. The business card pocket and the pen holder are attached to the smaller pocket first using 4 rivets and saddle stitched. Then saddle stitch the smaller pocket on to the larger pocket. If using a snap to keep back pocket closed you can attach it now.
Attach Hardware
Attach the buckle to the front piece. If using a snap to keep back inside pocket closed it should be attached now. One half to the inside of the back and the other half to the front on the larger inside back pocket.
Attach Front to the Gusset
The front and the inner front pocket are saddle stitched to the gusset inside-out. It will be flipped when they are attached. A thin piece of leather is sewn inbetween the pieces acting as piping. This piping relieves stress between the pieces after it is flipped. Use binder clips to hold the pieces together as you sew, Be careful around the corners. This is the easiest place to skip a hole.
When finished sewing all the way around turn the piece inside-out.
Attach the Back
Attach the back, the outside back pocket and the back inner pocket using a saddle stitch. Hold pieces together with a binder clip. Sew all the way around. Again, be careful in the corners and a pair of needle nose pliers can help pull the needles through the holes.
Back Reinforcement
Sew the back reinforcement piece of leather to the back of the bag. Stitch the set of holes on the bottom.
Attach the Flap
Attach the 2 sides straps to the back with 2 rivets then sew 2 lines across the back of the bag.
Flap Continued
Attach the middle rivet to the back of the bag. Attach 2 sam browne buttons to the front of the bag. Attach the 2 d-rings to the back of the bag using the d-ring strap and reinforcement piece. Rivet then sew them on. Lastly, rivet the handle to the 2 remaining holes. At this point you can also rivet on the front closure strap to the flap.
Shoulder Strap and Pad
Punch approximately six holes, 2 inches apart on both ends of a 1" x 60-70" heavy weight strap. Sew the 2 pieces of the shoulder pad together using a saddle stitch. Slide the shoulder pad through the strap before attaching the conway buckles. Attach 2 conway buckles and trigger snaps to the ends of the strap as shown in the pictures.