USB Steampunk Stick
by Admiral Aaron Ravensdale in Circuits > USB
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USB Steampunk Stick
Hi all,
Today I will show how you built a simple and cheap but well looking USB Memory Stick.
You will find here so many instructions for USB Sticks that I will only show you my and give you a short overview over the steps and parts.
Also don't miss to visit my website with more great projects under Steampunk-Design.
The first picture shows all the parts you need for this project.
Sorry for my bad English so I only try to describe the single pars.
Two copper pipes (15.0 mm inside) which you use to fit heater core.
3mm brass tube
0.6mm brass wire
one gear wheel
four M1 brass nuts
LED
Micromesh from an Air Mass Senor of a car
I missed it on the picture you also need an end cap for cooper tubes as a dust cap for the connector
and finally a small USB Stick not bigger than 15mm (width)
Today I will show how you built a simple and cheap but well looking USB Memory Stick.
You will find here so many instructions for USB Sticks that I will only show you my and give you a short overview over the steps and parts.
Also don't miss to visit my website with more great projects under Steampunk-Design.
The first picture shows all the parts you need for this project.
Sorry for my bad English so I only try to describe the single pars.
Two copper pipes (15.0 mm inside) which you use to fit heater core.
3mm brass tube
0.6mm brass wire
one gear wheel
four M1 brass nuts
LED
Micromesh from an Air Mass Senor of a car
I missed it on the picture you also need an end cap for cooper tubes as a dust cap for the connector
and finally a small USB Stick not bigger than 15mm (width)
Remove Old Case and Built It New
Open carefully the case from the USB Stick and remove it.
Paint a nice window on the both copper tubes.
Be sure that both windows have the same size!!!
Otherwise they don’t fit to each other when you solder the tubes together.
I use two copper tubes because it's easier to cut the window with a cutting wheel into the open end.
When you use a long tube you must start in the middle and this is more difficulty.
Then I drill some 5mm holes in the opposite of the window and 2mm holes in the side.
Paint a nice window on the both copper tubes.
Be sure that both windows have the same size!!!
Otherwise they don’t fit to each other when you solder the tubes together.
I use two copper tubes because it's easier to cut the window with a cutting wheel into the open end.
When you use a long tube you must start in the middle and this is more difficulty.
Then I drill some 5mm holes in the opposite of the window and 2mm holes in the side.
Soldering
Bend the brass pipes put the nuts on and fit it into the holes.
If you like some extras winding the brass wire around a screwdriver and stick it after winding on the brass pipe.
After put all the small things on the right place I fixed all with a bench vice.
Then I solder it together with a gas pencil torch.
Then I bender the Micromesh round and stick it into the tube.
You can use the current LED or supersede the old from the stick trough a new one.
I prepare for the LED a special circuit.
If the red LED goes off (read/write) the big blue one goes on.
So the stick makes a nice lightshow.
After a final check of all I solder the clock gear on the end to close the tube.
For a dust cap on the connector I use end cap there I glued a rubber ring inside.
If you like some extras winding the brass wire around a screwdriver and stick it after winding on the brass pipe.
After put all the small things on the right place I fixed all with a bench vice.
Then I solder it together with a gas pencil torch.
Then I bender the Micromesh round and stick it into the tube.
You can use the current LED or supersede the old from the stick trough a new one.
I prepare for the LED a special circuit.
If the red LED goes off (read/write) the big blue one goes on.
So the stick makes a nice lightshow.
After a final check of all I solder the clock gear on the end to close the tube.
For a dust cap on the connector I use end cap there I glued a rubber ring inside.