USB-Power-Distribution

For our exhibitions we need a bunch of 5V power supply for our LED-Stuff. The easiest way is using USB, albeit slightly borderline regarding power specs. In general we want line power as far away as possibel from the visitors for safety reasons. So we start with a transformer from line power to 24 Volt (or 12V, such that we can even use mobile car power or battery power systems), and then go from there to 5V with a DC-DC-Converter. Of course you can also adapt the design files to go e.g. directly from line power to 5V with a transfomer. Of course its nee to look also nice.

Design files can be found at: https://github.com/JanThar/USB_Powersupply

We use a bit of 4mm poplar, 3 Speakon-Connectors, 10 USB-A female connectors, a bit of wiring and a DC-DC converter. Then some M3 screws and nuts, salt crystels, moss (but thats just for decoration) and glue.

The system is pretty straight forward, first lasercut the svg design file out of 4mm poplar, then 3D print a bunch of USB connectors (back and front parts). Optional are vent openings (red in the svg, and corresponding 3D-printed covers). After printing, USB-A female sockets for PCBs are inserted. They have small metall extensions for press-fit into holes in the PCB, which we dont't need, so we press them flat with a tool. The we insert the USB connectors into the walls and solder wires for 5V and gnd on it. For more power use thicker wires and one wire for each pair to the power supply. Afterwards we put back covers over it and screw them on the wood. Similarly we insert vent covers and Speakon-Connenctors for the 24V power supply. 2 RGB color changing LEDs are fitted into the top plate for power check, with resistors attached to it. Afterwards we assemble the whole housing (with wood glue). For a nicer finish, smooth the edges and stain the wood.

Afterwards we cann connect everthign with wago clamps and soldering. First we connect the 24V lines of the DC_DC converter to the Speakon-Connectors, and then the 5V lines to LEDs and USB sockets.

Finally, glue salt crystals on top of the LEDs and cover the rest of the top plate with moss. Either use hot glue or clear glue. But that is just vor aesthetic reasons.