Trigger Trap Splash Timer

Sound, light, laser, manual (or any other external trigger) activated flash delay to capture high speed photography. Also operates solenoids for water drop collisions.

There are many pre-made and DIY trigger trap, time delay & water splash projects available. I aim to make this the best, using the latest (but cheaply available) microcontroller, full colour display and modules, negating the need to manufacture pcbs or use unsightly breadboards.

Will have every feature & option I can think of, but any extra functionality required, I can add at users requests.

All the documentation here, as well as the firmware, can be found on my github. billbill100 (github.com)

Github is the preferred repository for documentation & firmware updates, so please keep a lookout there, I will, however, try to also keep the documents here current as well.

Instructables does not allow the uploading of firmware here.

A user forum can be found here

(1) Trigger Trap Splash Freeze Timer Cheap-Easy-It-Works | Photrio.com Photography Forums

If you build the Timer, please post photos & give feedback, as well as any ideas or suggestions for improvement. The more feedback I get, the better I can make the projects. Also any ideas for other photography related projects gratefully received.

An easy DIY project to build a top quality, but cheap trigger timer for your camera. Freeze motion, like bursting ballons (filled with water or powder) fruit being shot (air-pistol) or water drop collisions to capture that lovely crown effect.

The timer can be triggered by an external sensor, sound or light, or a push-button. After a user set delay, the flash will fire. As a flash has a very short duration, any motion will be frozen. The delay can be adjusted to exactly the right moment to capture the photo.

Solenoid valves can be fired. this will allow amazing water drop & collision photos. Setting multiple drop sizes and time between drops, one can catch collisions as the first drop splashes up as the next falling drop collides with it.

Building will follow the same format as the other projects (so take a look at my github) using an ESP32 development board and pre-made modules. This eliminates the need to make pcbs or use breadboard.

A full list of parts, with links can be found in the parts list document. These are all easily & cheaply sourced from Aliexpress.

The heart of the project is an ESP32 microprocessor board. Similar to Arduino, but running much faster with extra resources.

Modules are used for control and isolation, so there is no need to solder individual components, make pcb's or use breadboards. Connections are made by either Dupont wires or soldered wires.

Please note that during testing, it was found that the four-module opto-isolator board would not work reliably as the input resister value is far too high.

A new single module has now been specified. However even this board has a resister value too high and must be changed to 27 ohms. The parts list document has been updated to include the new board and resister required.

The project can be built into any suitable box. The parts list contains a link to a suitable sized project box.

A milling machine with digital readout is the ideal way to cut the hole for the screen and drill the hole for the buttons. However it is easily accomplished with basic hand tools, by covering the box lid with masking tape & drawing the cut lines & drill holes.

The encoder requires a 6mm drill bit & the buttons, a 13mm drill bit. Brad point bits are ideal for drilling plastic with a hand-held power drill, as they will not wander. Links to suitable cheap drill bits are given in the parts list.

If using a pillar drill & clamping the box, then metal cutting drill bits will work fine.

The square screen hole can be cut by first drilling a series of overlapping holes, inside the cut lines, to remove the bulk of the material.

Carefully score the outline with a Stanley knife (box cutter) using a metal straight edge that keeps your fingers well away from the blade. A plasterers trowel works great. Take your time, slowly getting deeper with each cut. Using a hacksaw, cut diagonally into each corner of the rectangular cut-out. Using pliers, it should now be possible to bend the waste material inwards and it should break along the score lines. If it will not easily bend, continue scoring. The cut edge can then be cleaned up by scraping with the knife and a file.

More details & pictures are in the Hardware Build document.

The individual modules are connected using dupont wires. Between the TFT screen and the breakout board, male to female wires and from the breakout board to the screw-terminal modules, male to male dupont wires.

Connections to the 2.1 & 3.5mm connectors, as well as the DC-DC converter will require soldering.

Full details are in the Wiring document.

For your computer to connect to the ESP32 board, to enable Firmware load. A driver may need to be installed to the PC.

Full details are in the document.

The camera must be in manual mode and shutter set as Bulb.

The camera can be operated by pressing & holding the shutter or by cable release.

Additionally, the camera shutter can be controlled by the Trigger Timer, making the process much easier.

The document below describes how to make a suitable cable.

The camera is connected via fully opto-isolated module, no electricity is passed to the camera, to ensure the camera. This full isolation ensures that no damage can occur to the camera.

Firmware is loaded to the ESP32 in the form of three files, These three files can be found on the Github page (instructables do not allow binary file uploads).

A program called Flash Download Tool, published by the ESP32 manufacturers, Espressif, must be loaded onto the PC to accomplish this, A copy is on Github, or download from the Espressif web site.

Full details in the Firmware Load document.

Here is the schematic, showing how everything is wired.

The operating Guide, with photos is attached.

Instructables don't seem to allow photos interspersed with text, so here, you will just seethe text portion of the guide.

I would really be grateful if you start to build the Timer, that you go to the Photrio thread and say hi. Also please post photos of your completed tester.

Please refer to Photrio for further build help & to let us know you are building the timer.

(1) Trigger Trap Splash Freeze Timer Cheap-Easy-It-Works | Photrio.com Photography Forums

GitHub repository where all documentation & code can be found. billbill100 (github.com)

V1.0 25/03/2024

Trigger Trap Splash Freeze Timer Operating Instructions

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Buttons

Blue button.     Each time this button is pressed, the red marker will move to the next parameter.

Blue knob.        Turning the knob will change the parameter

White button    Toggles the focus (shutter half-press). Optionally, this will also open/close the shutter.

Red Button.      Pauses Timer to stop any triggers activating the splash or flash

Green.              Starts splash-flash, or Trigger-Flash sequence.

Yellow.              Single press gives one drip. Long press gives purge of water lines.

Black.               Opens Options Menu

On-Screen Parameters

Master Delay mS. (Splash only)

This opens the shutter and pauses the delay sequence and all timers, for the set period.

This is useful as it gives time for the camera to lift its mirror and open the shutter.

Flash Delay

To make adjustment quicker, the Flash delay, which works in microseconds has been split to two lines, with the top showing the milliseconds component and the second line, the microseconds. Think of it as both rows run consecutively, MMMMuuu.

Normally the microsecond part does not need to be adjusted. One would have to turn the microseconds 1000 times just to get 1 millisecond. Or 1000 X 1000 times for one second!

For fine adjustment, the microseconds can be adjusted.

Note:-

Flash Delay starts from the end of Master Delay.

The flash will only fire after the full sequence has completed. If the sequence is longer than the flash delay time, the display shows yellow as a warning.

Drip1 On Time

This is how long the solenoid will open for, to allow a water drop to form & drop.

(If this figure is set to 0, no drips will occur and the sequence will jump directly to Flash Delay).

Drip 2 Delay

This is the pause before the solenoid is open again for another drip.

(If this figure is set to 0, no further drips will occur and the sequence will jump directly to Flash Delay).

Drip 2 On Time

This is how long the solenoid will open for, to allow a water drop to form & drop.

(If this figure is set to 0, no further drips will occur and the sequence will jump directly to Flash Delay).

Drip 3 Delay

This is the pause before the solenoid is open again for another drip.

(If this figure is set to 0, no further drips will occur and the sequence will jump directly to Flash Delay).

Drip3 On Time

This is how long the solenoid will open for, to allow a water drop to form & drop.

(If this figure is set to 0, no further drips will occur and the sequence will jump directly to Flash Delay).

TimeOut

After the sequence has completed, how long until re-trigger is permitted.

The Options Screen

Pressing the Black button brings up the Options Screen.

Each time the Blue button is pressed, a red marker will appear at the next parameter.

To change, rotate the Blue knob.

Save Settings.

This will save the current settings to memory & they will remain after power off

Factory Reset.

Current memory settings will be cleared and replaced with default settings. The Timer will then restart.

LightSensor.

This affects the behaviour of the light sensor, when room lights are turned off.

OFF.                   Does nothing

Open Shutter.    When the room light is turned off, the shutter will open.

Start Splash       When the room light is turned off, the Splash sequence will start.

Flash-Or-Splash.

This affects the behaviour of the Green button, when pressed.

Flash Only.         When triggered, starts flash delay & then fires the flash. Master Delay and Drip timers are all . bypassed.

Splash.               Starts complete Splash sequence.

White Button

This affects the behaviour of the White button, when pressed.

FocusOnly.          Will ‘half push’ the shutter button. (Note camera must be in manual focus)

Foc+Shuttr.         Will fully press the shutter button, operating focus & the camera shutter.

Mode

Normal.              Trigger-Flash & Splash-Flash functions normally.

Normal+RL.        The external relay will be energised, followed with a pause equal to Master Delay before continuing.

                            Works with Green & White buttons & light-sensor.

Fast.                   This is used when fast, low latency timings are needed. Rotating the blue knob adjusts the flash delay. . The camera must be manually controlled.

                           To minimise latency, other than updating the user selected flash delay, there are no on-screen         

                            prompts during trigger. Timeout is then displayed. 1 uS timing accuracy can be achieved.

                            Note:- Other than a power reset, there is no way to exit this mode.

Instant.               As per fast, but no option to set delay. Latency is < 0.3uS.

Trigger Low

This will change to indicate whether or not the external input is currently triggered.

Useful for aligning light/Laser sensors or testing distance for sound sensors, without the flash firing.

Trigger High

This will change to indicate whether or not the external input is currently triggered.

Useful for aligning light/Laser sensors or testing distance for sound sensors without the flash firing.

Press Black button to return to main screen with updated options.

Note:- Any changes are not automatically saved. Use Save Settings option, if required.

General Splash-Flash Notes.

For splash photography, shutter latency is not usually a problem, as the flash delay is comparatively large & the Timer can be allowed to control the shutter opening & closing. Additional time to allow for latency can be used by increasing Master Delay setting.

The splash sequence can only be started by pressing the Green button or using the Light-Sensor option. External triggers will not start the Splash sequence.

General Trigger-Flash Notes

When the Timer is triggered by an external trigger, Master Delay & all the Drip On & Drip Delay timers are bypassed. It is only Flash Delay and Timeout that are used. The Timer will still operate the mains relay and open the camera shutter, but usually the camera latency is too high, so the normal use would be, setup, turn off lights, open camera shutter with White Button (a cable release can be used instead) & shoot or pop the balloon etc. If using a cable release, close the shutter.

Pressing the Green button in Flash Only simulates an external trigger. This can be useful for testing the setup.

General Notes

Shutter latency is the time from when the shutter is pressed to the time the camera has lifted the mirror & opened the shutter. This can be many milliseconds.

Normal+RL allows a room light to be automatically controlled. When Green or White buttons are pressed, the relay will operate (which can be connected to a light). A delay equal to Master Delay will occur, to allow the light to fully extinguish withoutthe camer shutter being opened. The timer then continues in either Flash or Splash mode.

The LightSensor has a hysteresis applied, equal to the TimeOut time. This is to avoid repeated triggering in flickering light.

A camera Focus button actually has two function. Half pressing will wake the camera up, focus the lens and take a light-meter reading. Fully pressing will then activate the shutter.

The term ‘focus’ is used here, to mean half-pressing the shutter button. However, the camera will not be able to focus in the dark & so should be pre-focused and then put to manual focus mode.

www.doc-diy.net :: camera remote release pinout list

Setting up Splash. Practical guide.

The Mariette bottle should be filled with water and the lines to the solenoids purged, using the Yellow button.

Height of the bottle above the solenoids & solenoids above the table are all variable & will create different effects. On the table, a water container should be placed, Again, amount of water in it & depth can all be experimented with.

The camera should be on a tripod. Focus should be set to manual & pre-focused on where the drop will hit the water.

Camera should be in manual mode, including iso. Shutter set to B. The camera can either be controlled with a cable release, in which case, turn off the lights & then press & hold the cable release button, then press the Green Timer button. Release the cable release button before turning the lights back on.

Flash can be positioned to either light directly the splash, or bounced from a white or coloured card behind the splash. Set the flash to the lowest power setting.

Take some test photos & adjust the camera aperture and iso to give a well-lit scene. The room should be dark. A little light to see what you are doing, will be fine.

Now we can start to set the timings. Set Master Delay to 2000, Flash Delay to 2005. Set drip time on to 0005. Turn drips 2 & 3 to 0. 

Take a test photo. No drip should be seen, as the flash fires at exactly the same time as the drip ends. (2000 + 0005).

Now, increase the flash delay slowly & if you are lucky, you will capture a sphere of water falling.

Keep increasing the flash delay until the photo shows the drip hitting the water. Keep increasing the delay & you will see the water become calm. Keep increasing the delay & you will now see the splash rebounding from within the water.

This will give a benchmark time. You can now experiment with longer or shorter drip lengths. Increasing the height of the solenoids will require a longer flash delay.

Once you have a nice eruption from the water, it is time for drip 2. By adjusting Drip 2 Delay & Drip 2 On Time.

Drip 2 should hit the eruption cased by drip 1, right at it’s peak. This will create the ‘mushroom’ effect. Again, experiment with the size & timing of drip 2.

Drip 3 can be used to either collide with the first collision, or left as a falling sphere, to add more context to the photo.

Experimentation is the key. Different timings, different drip size & different lighting. Adding food colouring to the water or thickening it by adding guar gum. Maybe add different colours to the water container and Mariotte bottle.

A rebounding splash                                     After a drip hits the water                          

On its way down…..

Impact!

Second drip collides with first.

The web is full of tutorials, guides & examples of freeze flash & water splash photography. So take a look via google.

For specific or general help, please post in the Photrio forum.

One of the firstt hings to research if wanting to do splash photography, is a Marotte bottle. This is a simple but clever device that maintained the same water pressure, whether nearly full or nearly empty. In this way, the solenoid head pressure will always remain constant, thus giving constant drip sizes.

Things to try, is adding food colouring to the water & a different colour in the Marotte bottle, to that of the drip tray. Using flash colour gels or different colour backgrounds to bounce light off, add interesting effects. foil wrapping paper works well,

The consistency of the water can be changed, adding guar gum will thicken it. Leave overnight when making.

Other (non-flammable liquids can be used, milk for example. Water based paints work, but it gets messy very quickly.

For flash only, a balloon filled with water or talcum powder works well. Shoot from a distance with an air pistol. Use a sound trigger near the pistol, to activate the delay. Ensure the camera is screened with a stout board and operated remotely. Everybody present MUST be behind the air-pistol.

You will have to support the air pistol on a frame, aim, another person turn out the lights, & open camera shutter.

Shooting very ripe fruit gives great results. Tomatoes work well.