TriFusion - Bridging Horizons: Connecting and Bridging Gaps in Communities Through Art, Nature, and Multicultural Cuisine

Hi! My name is Sebastian, and I'm a Junior at Suncoast Community Highschool in Riviera Beach, Florida. Since I moved to my neighborhood in 2009, I've always loved to spend time with my cousins who lived in the same community. The one caveat was that I had no way to get to their house, so I would have to wait for my parents to drive me over to their house. Once I got old enough, my parents would let me ride my bike to their house; however, this was easier said than done because it was a 3-mile bike ride all the way to their house with one section of the sidewalk being right next to a busy road. For a 10-year-old, this was quite an endeavor to perform twice every day during summer. The funny thing was that my cousin's house was only about 1000 feet away from my house, but since the houses were separated by a man-made lake, I had to circle the whole lake just to get to their house. My parents later proposed that we used our local "community" center which was roughly halfway between my house and my cousin's house; however, neither I nor my cousin liked this since the community center was really just a park with some office buildings for the community HOA.

I've gotten to the point where I don't really spend every day with my cousin, however, I've heard from a lot of kids who are in a similar situation. So, I've decided to try and make a solution to this problem. I've come up with triFusion, a Tri-tipped community center that aims to use three main elements to connect cultures and people together: food and cuisine; art and technology; and nature and science. Now at first, I was planning on making this building a permanent, immovable structure, however, I decided that I would make the structure a semi-permanent structure that floats along the water. Since my home state, Florida, has an abundance of these man-made lakes created around housing areas, this floating structure style can easily be adapted and adopted by many communities.

To connect this floating community island to the lake shores, I designed some moveable rafts that can interconnect and create flexible bridges that can flow with the current. This flexibility allows the bridges to be easily moved from the on-shore landings. Naturally, these bridges physically connect the community center to specified locations on land, but the bridges also symbolize the connection of people and culture as people all over the community can come and interact with each other and their accompanying cultures.

Reading this description might make my idea seem pretty straightforward, however, there were plenty of roadblocks and complications throughout the design process. So, to learn more keep reading and let's get started!

P.S. - I'll try to present this to the community HOA so that they can try to reevaluate their current community center situation, so stay tuned for any updates!!

Software

• Fusion 360 (F360)
• MAYA 2023

Materials used for 1/40 Scale Model

• Hatchbox PETG Filament (Red, Green, Blue, Translucent) - Amazon ($25 /roll)
• Hatchbox PLA Matte Filament (Stone Grey, Navy) - Amazon ($26 /roll)
• Solder Roll - Amazon ($20)
• Glue Sticks - Amazon ($8)
• Colored Construction Paper - Amazon ($9)
• White Poster Paper - Amazon ($20)
• Carboard Box (I used a recycled box) - Amazon ($25)
• Popsicle sticks (I used this so I could use a failed print, so you might not need) - Amazon ($5)
• Various screws (Used for weight, you can change this) - Amazon ($7)
• Various Paper Printed Textures

Attribution statements for all 3rd part assets - Attribution Statment Google Sheet

Before moving on to the brainstorming and the actual build process of TriFusion, I wanted to address some main questions that I tried to ask myself to justify/reason through some of the basics of how, where, and why TriFusion would be built.

Why bother making community building?

In times like now where digitalization and technological communication is replacing social interaction and civic engagement, it is crucial to teach and encourage children and adults alike to come together and not only learn from each other but also interact and build bonds between one another. This community building provides a space that encourages the building of bonds and learning.

As I mentioned before, to get to my cousin's house I had to bike 3 miles (picture 1). One of the most dangerous aspects of this bike ride was a stretch of sidewalk (approx 0.5 mile) that was right next to a busy road where the speed limit was 45 mph, but drivers often exceeded this limit by 15mph+ since it was a long, straight road (picture 11). This meant that, as a 10-year-old, I was often riding my bike 3 feet away from traffic driving at highway speeds. As I start to think of it now, this was super dangerous, and frankly, this is one of my main motivators as to building this prototype.

With the community center, however, that 3-mile bike ride would actually be a much more reasonable 1.3 miles, almost 1/3 of the original distance (pictures 5-6). Additionally, this would let community members utilize much safer neighborhood roads with much less traffic going at much slower speeds (picture 12).

How would the layout look?

The main building would sit in the center of the lake with three pontoon-style bridges stemming out from the building. To give you reference the main building is about 100ft in diameter (roughly the size of two large school buses).

Where would you build the landing points?

The landings for the pontoon-style bridges would mainly be located throughout the community area. The stationary landing would stem from the existing community center's (which is not really a community center) dock (picture 10). The other landing points could be moved around to suit the community needs, I chose some unused HOA land around the other halves of the community (pictures 8-9).

Where would the community center be installed?

Since the building is semi-permanent, the building can be situated in any appropriate spot in the community lake. In this situation, I selected the center of the lake to give the best access to all community members.

How would the building be built and installed?

The main building itself would be built on land and then transported to a designated lift site where a set of cranes could lift the building into the water. Once the building's location is chosen as mentioned above, anchors can be released so that the building doesn't move. The pontoon sections are meant to be built on-site using community teamwork. Each section would be launched into the water and slowly the bridge would be built, starting from the landing docks and moving towards the main building.

DISCLAIMER - The above photos DO NOT actually reveal my address nor my cousins'. I used estimated distances in relatively similar separations. However, this is still the same community area.

Once I knew that I wanted to incorporate community building into my project for this contest, I knew that I wanted to make the pedestrian bridge and the building aspects seamlessly flow. I conducted a lot of research on architecture and infrastructure similar to this idea I had in mind. After watching many architectural Ted Talks, I stumbled upon Bjarke Ingels' Ted talk where he mentions a bridge that he designed that also functions as a museum called The Twist. Ingels' idea to combine these traditionally separate pieces of infrastructure gave me the inspiration to combine the bridge and building aspects to create a sort-of "intersection" at the center of the building-bridge combination. This combination of building and bridge is exactly what I was looking for, and heavily influenced me when I would later design the first model of triFusion.

Image Credits:

Image 1 - Link, Image 2 - Link, Image 3 - Link

As I've been previously mentioning, my idea is to create a combination of building and bridge. To start getting an idea of what I was going to design, I made some drawings of what I was looking for in the functionality of the community center and the bridge. Since my main goal in this project is to connect people, both the bridge and the community center were designed with people and community in mind.

Community Center

In the picture to the left, you can see my final sketch of the actual community building. Of all the features laid out in the drawing, the most important is the actual shape of the building. I decided that the building was going to act as the intersection of all three pontoon-style bridges. This intersection of the bridges symbolizes the connection between the people of the community who share and utilize the building. As a result of the intersection, three main areas popped up inside the building. I decided to take each section and represent them with a color and a key attribute that connects people together. Starting with the Red section, this section would represent art and technology, a great method for community members to show off their cultures and learn from each other. In this Red Section, community members can use computers through a ticketing system similar to those in a community library. Connected to the network, community members can access a small-scale 3D printer farm to materialize any 3D models or designs that they have created. Additionally, community members can use the drafting tables where they can professionally design objects using classic drafting techniques. Finally, members can access a wide array of art supplies including printers, art easels, paints, and coloring stations. In addition to the Red section, the Green section represents nature and science, creating a space where community members can learn about and enjoy the natural world. The Green section offers a large space where community members can collectively help plant hydroponic fruits, vegetables, and flowers in the many different hydroponic planters. Additionally, the green section hosts a variety of fish tanks where community members can learn about the local Florida wildlife. In addition to these nature and science areas, the Green section also hosts the utility area where water, electrical, and AC utilities are situated. Finally, the Blue section, which represents food and cuisine, allows community members to express their cultures through food and provides a way for people to share each other's cultures and traditions. The Blue section houses the learning stations, a long countertop where multiple people can learn to cook new things with the help of each other. In addition to these learning stations, the main cooktop and oven area is housed in the center island where people can also sit down and enjoy the meals they have prepared. Additionally, the Blue section houses the pantry and food storage, and the community center bathroom. Apart from these sections indoors, the outside patio can be converted into an outdoor theatre and sitting area. Finally, the roof houses more utilities including solar panels, water filtration, and composting. If needed, the roof can also act as a spare area where families or groups of people can host small gatherings or parties. The last important feature of the community building is the drawbridges. The drawbridges allow small watercraft to pass the bridges. Additionally, these drawbridges allow the community center to disconnect from all the pontoon bridges so in cases of bad weather, the bridges can be stored on land.

Pontoon Bridge

When designing the bridges that connect to the community center, I still tried to keep in mind the idea of a community. To include the community in these bridges, I designed them so that they can easily be assembled by the community, allowing each member of the community to contribute to the community center. To do this, the bridge is made up of small pontoon rafts that connect to form one large, flexible bridge. These individual rafts are made up of several 55 gal drums, 3 4x8 plywood sheets, and some railing. As the bridge sections are built, they can be launched from on land and then moved in place to assemble the bridge.

Before getting started, I want to point out some key features of my thinking/thought process in the following steps of the instructable. In each step, following this one, there will now be two or three bolded headings. Each of these headings represents a different approach to the problem or task at hand. Beginning with the Real World heading, this heading represents the work, construction, or engineering behind the task at hand, providing a real-world aspect to the instructable and also allowing for a look into the methodology behind the choices made at each specific step. Following the Real World heading, the CAD heading represents the CAD approach to the problem or task at hand. This CAD aspect provides a look into how the problems or tasks at hand can be solved via computer-aided design (CAD). Finally, the MAYA heading represents the rendering aspect of the project. This render aspect of the project provides a vessel to which the CAD aspect can be envisioned, creating a more comprehensive image or visualization so more people can understand the ways problems or tasks were solved.

Additionally, I want to mention that all CAD work and some rendering were done using Fusion 360 (shortened to F360 from now on), and all renders created after step 14 were made using Maya 2023. I used both Fusion360 and Maya through my personal educational Autodesk account.

Real World

Before getting started with designing the building, I first took into account the community center's foundation which has to act as a giant floatie for the building. To figure out how many plastic 55-gal drums I need to make the building float I did some basic math and physics:

Given: Displacement / drum = 55 gals, Weight of water / gal ≈ 8.3 lbs (Source), Weight displaced per drum = ?

55 x 8.3 ≈ 455 lbs / Drum

This means that for every 55-gal drum I use 450lbs will be displaced. Now, I need to find out the approximate weight of the building to calculate the amount of drums needed:

Given: Weight / Ft^2 ≈ 200 lbs (Source), Building's Ft^2 = 5000, Building Weight = ?

200 x 5000 = 1000000 lbs = 500 tons (It's easier to keep in lbs for now)

Now I just need to find out the total amount of drums that I will need to use:

Given: Total Weight = 1000000 lbs, Weight displaced per drum = 450 lbs, Total Drum Count = ?

1000000 ÷ 450 ≈ 2250

After laying out the drums, I found that I could place about 1125 drums right under the main floor of the buildings, this means that to fit the rest of the drums I will have to use two layers.

CAD

Before actually making these drums, I needed to make the main base so I would know how to place the drums, so before actually making these drums I first made the base layout. - To make these containers, I simply made 1:1 scale cylinders of the drums measuring about 3' x 2' in diameter. I didn't try to add too much detail to the containers since I knew that having so many detailed drums would probably overload my computer. After adding proper spaces for things like the hinges in the drawbridges, I added the plastic texture within Fusion360 so that I could later render the drums. To render the drums, I chose to render locally since it would take less time.

Real World

Main Base

To create the base of the community center, a specific set of building techniques must be used. Since this flooring will come in contact with water, a waterproof and rot-resistant base needs to be installed. For this reason, I chose to use Fiberglass-reinforced panels (FRPs) which are water-resistant and do not deteriorate easily. Since FRPs cannot structurally support a lot of weight, the FRPs will just act as a base layer to protect the other vulnerable materials above. After this initial waterproofing from the FRPs, A plywood ribbing (See picture 11) will be used to make a hollow, but strong base. This ribbing creates a much stronger base compared to using regular plywood sheeting techniques.

Drawbridge Hardware

To create the drawbridge feature, the hinge hardware has to be installed. This hardware is a two-piece system, the first piece of the metal hinge (you can see this in pictures 4 and 7) attaches to the main building base. After this installation, the drawbridge platforms can be moved into place with their respective hinge hardware. After both parts of the hinge are aligned, a stainless steel pin with grease nubs (similar to pins on excavators and cranes that connect hydraulic rams to the actual arm of the machinery) can be inserted. After the pin is inserted, the retaining pin is then inserted, and the main pin is greased so that the bridge moves with minimal friction. Since the actual drawbridge platform has drums, there is no need for a physical stopper because the bridge will start to float once it is in the lowered position. The rest of the bridge's hardware will be installed in later steps.

CAD

First off I started by creating a new file in F360. I chose to make design both the community center and the pontoon bridges in full 1:1 scale. To make the main base, I used the conceptual sketch as a reference to what I actually needed to sketch in F360. To copy the shape from my sketch, I first switched to the sketch environment. After entering the sketch environment, I started out by making a circle with a 100ft diameter. To get this number, I tried measuring various real-life objects to find a size I thought suitable for my community. I ended up going with the diameter of my neighborhood's culdesac which was about 100ft in diameter. After making the circle I then started to draw 3 lines from the circle's center to the outer edge, all 120 degrees from each other. These lines would represent the entrances of the building. After making these lines I then created 3 tangent lines with a 20ft span. I then used the constraints to constrain the center of these lines to the ends of the other previous lines. I then made these lines tangent to the circle. After doing this, I then created three arcs that connected the ends of each tangent line. This formed the "tri-pointed" shape that I was looking for. After making these points. I then made another arc to form the deck area at the front portion of the building. I then switched back to the 3D modeling environment. Since this CAD model was for rendering purposes, I didn't make the internal ribbing in the base (since this wouldn't be visible) and I just extruded the shape to the designated thickness. After making the main base, I then moved on to make the drawbridge hardware and their platforms. To make the bridge's hardware, I made simple hinges by creating a mounting plate (Picture 11) and then added a cavity for the connecting pin. I made sure to add chamfers to the edges so that the pin could be easily installed. Then, I started to make the bases of the drawbridges. To make the bases, I started with a 20ft line and an 8ft line with a perpendicular line separating these two lines by 20ft. I then connected the ends of the 20ft and 8ft lines. The reason for the 8ft span at the exiting end of the drawbridge was to make the construction of the pontoon bridges simpler by making the width the same as a 4ftx8ft sheet of plywood. After making the hardware and the bases for one drawbridge I just used the circular pattern tool to copy and paste them for the other bridges. Since I was starting to make a lot of different assemblies, I started to organize all parts into different components and assemblies. I made sure that the drawbridges and the main base were different assemblies so I could create joints between the assemblies. To make the joints, I used the connecting pin as the reference point and I then added a 30-degree stop.

Real World

Colored Walls

Instead of relying on pillars to support the roof, triFusion relies on the exterior walls and the interior weight-bearing walls to support the roof. Since the structure will naturally rely on the walls to support itself, the walls will have to be extremely tough and rugged because it will reside in South Florida, a hurricane-prone area. For this reason, the community center's walls must conform to the extremely strict Florida building codes. As per the 2017 FBC Building Code 1604.3, exterior wall deflection due to hurricane-force winds shall not exceed 1/360 ft (Pictures 7-8). To comply with this code, the best course of action is to utilize a mix of cinder blocks and cement to create the colored walls (R, G, B). The walls will be constructed on top of the base, using rebar anchors to anchor the wall to the base. In addition to the rebar anchors, cement will be laid down underneath the walls, inside the base so that the walls are weighed down. In regards to supporting the roof, the cement and cinder blocks will allow for great compression strength while the rebar will keep the walls from cracking under tensile forces that occur when the concrete expands due to heat (this cracking is a major problem in Florida due to the extremely high heats year-round). Finally, anchors will be installed on these cinder block walls so that the glass walls can be installed.

Glass Walls

As I previously mentioned, all the exterior walls in the building must not exceed 1/360ft deflection due to hurricane-force winds as per the FBC Building Code. This means that the glass walls in this building must be hurricane-proof to pass this requirement. To reinforce the glass walls, a structural support framework will be integrated. This framework will be made of robust, corrosion-resistant materials such as stainless steel. It will provide stability and distribute the load evenly across the glass panels, minimizing the risk of excessive deflection during hurricane-force winds. The glass panels will be securely anchored to the colored walls using a combination of mechanical fasteners and structural silicone sealants. The mechanical fasteners, typically made of stainless steel, will provide additional support by firmly attaching the glass to the framework and preventing any displacement.

CAD

To make the colored walls, I started by making a new sketch and going back into the sketch environment. I start out by projecting the internal flooring so that I can tell where the walls will need to go. After projecting the floor, I start by offsetting the outside perimeter of the flooring by 8" so that the outside walls will be formed. Now that I've completed the sketch for the bottom part of the wall, I have to create a slightly offset top sketch that will for the curved wall (see pictures 9-10). To create this offset, I first create a new plane that is 15ft offset from the floor (this is to make sure that the sketch is at the top portion of the wall), then I project the same sketch that I created previously, finally, I offset this whole sketch by about 1ft. To connect these two sketches, I use the loft tool which connects these two sketches. After creating this colored, outside wall, I then mirror it so that both of the colored walls for one tip of the building are created. Then, I select these two components and use the circular pattern tool to create the remaining colored walls. After doing this, I use the same process to create the glass walls, making sure that the same height offset is used so that the wall curvature is uniform. Finally, I created the interior walls by creating another sketch and drawing the individual interior walls for the entire building. In this case, I did not use the "lofting" technique since the interior walls were meant to be straight, so I just used the extrude tool to create the walls.

Credits: Picture 8

Real World

In a similar process to the base, the roof is constructed of a wood shell with internal ribbing to enhance its strength. However, in this case, the roof would be filled with insulating foam since heat can seep in much more easily than it could compared to the base. This foam will help keep the building cool during the season-wide sunny days in Flordia. In the actual construction of the building, the whole roof would be assembled, and then a crane would hoist the roof into place. However, before the roof is hoisted into place, mounting brackets would be installed on the roof, and more rebar would be left exposed on the exterior walls and the interior weight-bearing walls. As the roof is hoisted into place, workers would align these mounting brackets on the roof to the rebar on the walls. Once the roof is aligned, workers would weld these mounting brackets to rebar to create a strong and secure joint. Finally, after the roof is connected, silicone sealants would be used to make sure there is an air-tight seal between the roof and adjacent walls.

CAD

To make the roof, I created another new sketch and switched back over to the sketch environment. I then projected the outer perimeter of the exterior walls. I then offset this projection by 2ft so that there would be a slight overhang allowing for more shade and coverage on the outer deck of the building. I then extruded this sketch to create the actual roof component. Then, I went back to the sketch environment and made sure to add a cavity in the roof so that the stairs to the upper deck could pass through and up to the deck. Finally, I made another sketch that covered the areas where the main support pillars for the drawbridge were to be located and then I extruded this sketch and used the circular pattern tool to repeat the same process on each drawbridge section.

Real World

To add the entrances, a surround glass fixture is installed on each entrance of the building so that the doors can be installed. After these fixtures are added, the door hardware is assembled and installed along the outer edge of the glass fixture. In addition to the basic doors, an all-weather rubber strip sealant (similar to the rubber that is used in car doors) is installed to make the building waterproof and to keep the building insulated. Keeping in mind the FDC building code, all doors comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) featuring the following: opening widths of 32in, easy-to-grasp handles located 48in from the ground, and electrically operated door openers with opening switches within 32in of the ground.

CAD

To make the entrances, I focused on mainly making one entrance and then using the circular pattern tool to copy and paste the whole assembly to each entrance. To begin, I first made the surround glass fixture by going into the sketch environment and creating a new sketch. Since this glass fixture is technically considered an exterior wall, I followed my previous technique to add a slight curve to the wall which was to first draw the sketch of the bottom portion of the wall and then offset that sketch by 1ft to create the top sketch. To join these sketches together, I used the lofting tool. After creating the actual wall, I then created another sketch that outlined where the doors would go on the wall. After making this sketch, I then extruded it to create the cavity where the doors would go. Using this same sketch I then extruded the doors. Finally, I made the handles by creating two cylinders and then connecting those two cylinders with another longer cylinder. (ADA compliance hardware will be added throughout the utilities and electrical steps later in the instructable)

Real World

Before adding the railing on the upper deck, the stairs must be added. To install the stairs, a hollow wall must first be installed. This wall is not meant to be a retaining wall so it is made out of the same plywood shell and ribbing techniques as the roof and the base. After this wall is installed, wood risers are then installed at 7in intervals in the Z axis and each riser is 11in deep, all in accordance with the FBC Building code (504.2 Treads and Risers). After the risers are installed, the stair's wood and glass railing is installed along with the sideboard. Now, the upper deck railing can be installed. Since the railing will be made out of glass, the same hurricane-proof glass panels from the building's walls will be utilized. This railing will be made up of 3 pieces, one piece for every side of the building. These pieces will be assembled using the same anchors and rubber sealants as the glass walls that were previously constructed.

CAD

I started by creating another sketch and switching back to the sketch environment. First, I started out by outlining the retaining wall for the staircase. I then extruded this wall out to the roof's height. After extruding the wall, I then used the existing wall's surface to split the extruded wall into the final shape. Next, I created another sketch on the wall's surface and started to outline the riser's dimensions, I then used the rectangular pattern tool to ensure a constant separation for both the tread depths and riser heights. Finally, I created the sideboard that would connect all the risers on the other end of the staircase and created the glass railing with wood handles. Since the upper deck railing would have the same shape as the exterior walls, I simply copy and pasted the lower walls and used the scaled tool to shorten the railing to an appropriate height. Finally, I added a surrounding railing around the hole where the staircase passed through to make sure that no one fell through.

Real World

To make the deck safe, railings and life preservers must be installed. The deck railing will be made out of pressure treated, 6inx6in timbers and 1in steel cables. Before installation is started, 5 1-in diameter holes must be drilled into every timber so that the railing's cables can be installed. After drilling these holes, the timbers are then installed. To install the railings, the wood timbers are installed at 4ft intervals around the perimeter of the deck (except the center of the deck where the outdoor theatre projector screen will be installed). Once the timbers are installed, the cables are threaded through each timber and then secured at each end of the railing. Once these railings are installed on the front deck, 4 life preservers are installed at 25ft intervals. Since the decking that connects the blue section to the green and the green to the red should not be accessible to community members, railings will not be installed, however, gates will be installed to prevent community members from accessing this area and to give access to maintenance members.

CAD

To create the railings, I first start out by creating a new sketch. The first thing I do is to offset the perimeter of the decking by about 1/2ft, this provides the center line for the railing. I then create the first 6inx6in timber outline at the center of the deck so that I can use the circular pattern feature to create many timbers at once. I then delete the irrelevant timber outlines including the timbers that are located where the outdoor theatre screen will go. I then go into the 3D environment where I extrude these timbers 36in. After doing this I create another new sketch on the surface of the first timber in the railing. On this timber, I create 5 equally spaced 1in circles. I then switch back to the 3D environment and use the sweep tool to extrude these cables along the railing's centerline. Finally, I add the 4 lifer preservers and the holders onto the timbers, making sure that they are all 25ft apart.

Real World

Now that the building is structurally secure, it's time to start adding the interior and exterior flooring and the roofing/upper deck flooring. Beginning with the interior, industrial-style rock flooring is installed and then polished to create a final finish similar to the flooring you can find at a Costco or Home Depot. After the interior flooring is installed, the exterior deck is prepared with a heat-resistant and water-proof tarp so that the wood shell below is protected in the event of rain and/or extreme heat. After this tarp is installed onto the outdoor deck, composite decking boards are installed over the tarp and secured so that, in the event of hurricane-force winds, the decking does not fly apart. Similar to the outdoor decking, the roof portion is prepared with the same tarp to also protect it from heat and water. After this tarp is installed, waterproof concrete tiling is installed. This concrete will be a white-grey color so that most of the heat from the sun during the long summer can be reflected back and keep the building much cooler. For now, the drawbridge platforms will remain as the simple bases, the finishes will be addressed in the drawbridge's utilities.

CAD

Since all the actual objects are already there (roof, decking, and interior flooring), all that needed to be done from the CAD perspective was changing the actual textures for the roof, exterior decking, and interior flooring.

Before starting to design the interior, I first made sure that I planned out what each area was going to be. I started out by defining what the blue area's rooms were going to house. The upper room will house the pantry, refrigerator, kitchen equipment, and tableware. The blue area's lower room will house the bathroom. This bathroom will follow ADA requirements and feature a baby changing area. Located at the center of the blue area will be the island with cooktops, a seating area, and a rear countertop bench. Moving on to the green area, the upper room will house all the AC and HVAC utilities followed by the lower room that will house the electrical and water utilities. Located at the center of the green area are the planters and water tanks. Finally, the red area will house the 3D print farm on the left side wall, the tech and drafting desks in the rear desk area, and all the art supplies at the various tabletops.

BEFORE I CONTINUE - All renders from now on will be made using MAYA unless explicitly mentioned. These renders will now start to feature 3rd party misc models (i.e. - plates, cookware, plants). These models come from Blender Kit, a free 3D model and materials library intended for Blender (I used some simple code from GitHub to adapt this free add-on to MAYA). Blender Kit uses CC0 - No Rights Reserved, and Royalty Free licenses on all assets within their library. These licenses essentially allow anyone to use the assets without needing an attribution statement as long as the assets themselves are not resold. However, I do not believe in the idea of using someone else's work without giving them credit, so at the beginning and end of this instructable, I will be providing a Google sheet providing attribution to each creator for their respective asset - Attribution Statment Google Sheet

Real World

To start occupying the interior space, AC and HVAC systems need to be installed. For triFusion, two main HVAC (Heat, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) systems will be installed in tandem. One HVAC unit will provide heating and AC to the blue space and half of the red space, and the other HVAC unit will service the green space and the remaining half of the red space. As for the HVAC utility room, the two interior HVAC assemblies will be installed along with one 40 kW boiler. Since the boiler will only be servicing the HVAC units and no heated water will be used externally, the boiler will use a closed-loop system to run both HVAC units. Additionally, coolant lines from the exterior condenser units will run down through the roof and into both HVAC units. Finally, high-voltage wiring and a separate breaker box will be installed to run both the HVAC units and the boiler. Since the electricity will be coming from the solar panels, the breaker box will have to connect to the other utility room that handles the electrical connections. Finally, air ducts will be installed throughout the roof's interior ribbing and connected to the HVAC systems.

CAD

To make the HVAC assembly, I first started out by making a simple rectangular sketch and extruding the face to make the basic HVAC body. Then, I chamfered the top edge of the object to make the area where the evaporator coils would be housed. Then, I made a slightly smaller rectangle and extruded it to make the ducting that would go to the roof. Next, I made a simple cylinder and extruded it to about 2/3 the height of the HVAC unit. I then fileted the top and bottom faces to make the "tank-looking" shape. After making the boiler, I then made the piping by making a much smaller cylinder on the top face of the boiler. After making the cylinder, I then made another sketch on it and added a line tangent to the cylinder's circular face. I used this tangent line as the axis that I would use to make the 90-degree bend when using the revolve tool. I then continued this tangent line and revolve method to make the whole piping system, including the coolant lines. Finally, I added the electrical danger symbols and warnings by using the text tool in the sketch environment as well as just a freehand method to make the lightning bolt. I then just copied and pasted the one HVAC unit to add the adjacent one. Finally, I made the electrical box and wiring by simply making a rectangle and inlaying the rectangle slightly to make the door and handle. To make the wiring's path, I used the sweep tool and the wall's profile to extrude the wiring along the wall.

MAYA

To render the room I started out by importing the HVAC assembly along with just the red walls and roof (this is done to save GPU VRAM and to make the overall rendering process much less grueling on my computer). I started out by applying materials to the room itself. I started by adding a concrete/mortar texture to the walls and using a ramp node to change the original whitish-grey color to red as seen in the render. Then, I applied the same concrete texture to the floor, but this time keeping it original. Finally, I applied a regular stone texture to the roof. Next, I applied a steel texture to the main body of the HVAC system, breaker panel, and top faces of the boiler. Then, I added simple colored materials to the main boiler body and the pipelines/electrical wiring. Finally, I assigned colored materials to the caution and warning signs. I then rendered each image at 1500 samples (1080 x 1920).

Real World

Following the HVAC utilities, electrical and water utilities now have to be installed. To power the community center, solar panel arrays are stationed on the roof (and optionally on lilly pads - more on that later) and are used to power the community center day and night. However, before the solar panels can be installed, batteries, electrical conduits, inverters, and solar panel controllers need to be installed. First, a 40 kWh battery pack is installed and covered with an insulative silicone layer to protect against electrocution. This battery pack will be able to store excess energy that is not used during the day to power the building during the night. In addition to the battery pack, a solar charger inverter is needed to convert the battery pack's 48VDC to 120VAC when the battery is being used during the night. In addition to these solar units, a conventional breaker box is required to handle the building's electrical connections and breakers. In addition to all of this, a solar panel controller will be needed, however, this is installed alongside the solar panels. After installing the electrical utilities, water utilities need to be installed. Since the community center will not use water from on-shore, the building will need to provide for itself using the water on which it floats and its filtration system. To make sure that the water used throughout the building is 100% clean, the community center will utilize a reverse osmosis and UV filtration system that continuously filters and cleans the water before the water even enters the building's main water lines. After the reverse osmosis filter, a water heater is installed (similar to the boiler from the HVAC utility room). Finally, electrical and water connections are spread throughout the building via the roof (the same process as the air ducts)

CAD

To begin designing the electrical and water utility room, I started out by making the battery pack. To make the batter pack, I started by making a simple rectangle that would encompass the whole back part of the room and actually stick out of the walls. Making sure that I made this object as a new body, I would then use the splitting tool and use the sides of the wall as the tools to split the actual rectangle to make the battery pack conform to the sides of the walls. Then, I used the offset tool to make a slight offset on each side of the battery pack so that there would be some space to maneuver it around. Next, I started to make the conduit channel that housed the low-gauge wire that connected the solar panels to the electrical room. To make the conduit, I made a slender rectangle that ran from the roof to about 3ft off the ground. After making the conduit, I then started to model the low-gauge wires that connected the solar panels to the battery pack and inverter. To make these wires, I started out by making three circular sketches on the bottom of the conduit and then I extruded these circles to make cylinders. Using the method that I used to make the pipes, I used the revolve tool and a tangent line to make curves in the wires so that the wires would meet up with the inverter. After making these wires, I then made a center plane that ran down the middle of the conduit, and then I used this plane to create mirrors of the wires so that the solar panels were connected to the battery. Finally, I created the breaker box using the exact same techniques as the previous one I made in the previous step, and then I connected the breaker box via some rectangular cables. Moving on to the water utilities, I started out by creating the inlet to the water system by simply creating a small circle on the floor, I then extruded this circle to make the inlet pipe and then used the revolve and tangent line technique to create the 90-degree bend that would allow me to create the reverse osmosis system. I then extruded this pipe all the way to the boiler (creating using previous techniques). After extruding this pipe, I created a tangent plane so that I could create the sketches to make the filters. To make the filters I made a series of small circles and then I offset each of the big circles (filter caps) by 0.05ft to make the actual filter. I then extruded all of these circles to create the filters for the system.

MAYA

Before starting to add texture to the electrical and water utility room, I want to remove all the previous objects that I imported so that I can free up some of my GPU's VRAM (excluding the actual building and roof). Since all the textures for the building are set up from the previous render, all that needs to be done is to add textures to the actual utilities. I start by adding a silicone texture to the battery pack which I previously mentioned in the "Real World" section will act as an insulator. After adding this main texture, I then added simple colored materials to fill in the danger and caution signs throughout the room. Next, I applied steel textures to the following: DC to AC inverter, breaker box, and sides of the boiler. After applying these textures I then, I then applied colored silicone textures to all wires throughout the room to represent the silicone insulation they would have. Finally, I used a PVC/ plastic texture to represent the materials on the pipes and filters. Finally, I rendered out all the images using all previous render settings as before.

Real World

To make sure that the community center is prepared in case of an emergency, proper fire prevention and protection devices must be installed. Beginning with the emergency exit signs, these signs will be powered using high-duration, heat-proof capacitors that allow the signs to be illuminated in the event of an electrical cut-off. These signs will be placed in each of the rooms inside the building and they will also be placed along each of the connecting pathways that run through the center of each tip of the building. In addition to the emergency exit signs, fire alarms, and triggers will be installed in every room, hallways, and throughout the upper and lower decks. Finally, regular fire extinguishers will be installed throughout the building, however, specialty fire extinguishers will be placed in fire-prone areas such as the utility rooms and the cooking area. The utility rooms will each have their own Class C, CO2 fire extinguishers that work specifically with electrical fires. Additionally, the cooking area will have Class K, potassium acetate-based fire extinguishers that work specifically with flammable cooking oils such as vegetable oils.

CAD

No modeling work was done during this step

MAYA

Since I used basic assets from BlenderKit, no major steps occurred during the rendering process except for actually positioning the assets and the camera. For this render, I kept the same 1500 samples, but I used a mix of 1920x1080 and 1080x1920 size images.

Real World

After adding the safety equipment, now it's time to add all the building's lights and interactive electrical features such as switches and outlets. Firstly, 100 Watt LED tube lights and fixtures will be installed throughout the building. These lighting fixtures will be spaced out every 5ft on the X-axis (perpendicular to the long side of the light) and 3ft on the Y-axis. Additionally, the light fixtures are going to be hooked up to the main electrical breaker box in the electrical utility room. Finally, each space (R, G, B) will have its own light switches for its respective space(s). In addition to the lights, electrical outlets will be placed throughout the building. All the outlets will feature 120V outlets and a max amperage o 15 Amps (depending on the circuit breakers used). Finally, ADA-compliant door switches will be installed on all entrances and exits of the building.

CAD

Out of the three interactive electrical units, I designed two, the light and the ADA-compliant entrance switches. To make the switch, I made a very simple sketch, beginning with a rectangle to make the base of the switch, then moving on to create the lettering, and finally using a reference image to freehand the ADA image. I finished off the button by adding a chamfer to the edge of the button. To make the light switch I simply made a rectangle that would represent the light fixture.

MAYA

To make these renders, all I had to do was to add individual textures to the parts I modeled and add lights to the light fixture. First I started by adding the metallic texture to the ADA button and then adding the metallic blue coating to the drawing and text inside the button. After the button, I then added a simple white material to the light fixture and then I added a few lights to the actual fixture so it would light up the space it occupied. Finally, I installed the outlets using BlenderKit. I used all previous settings to actually render the images.

Real World

Before I start to explain the building process, I want to recap the actual meaning and use of the blue space will be. The blue space represents food and cuisine and employs these elements to bring people and their cultures together. To enable the blue space to complete its mission of bringing people and their cultures together, appropriate utilities and supplies must be installed in the space. Beginning with the island, two Bosch standing stove ovens, two hood vents,. These hood vents will connect to a separate air duct that will fan away smoke and fumes outdoors. Finally, the island's countertop will be installed with a slight overhang to create a bar-style table opposite the stove; seating will also be added under the overhang. After the island, the rear countertop area will be installed along with cabinet sets under each cook station. On the countertop area, various different cooking utensils and tools will be added to an individual station (a cooking/learning area for a community member), and then each station will be copied multiple times to make each of the individual cooking stations. After arranging the back countertop, the side countertop will be stocked with communal utensils and tools such as kitchen mixers and kitchen scales. After the main area is stocked, the pantry is stocked with spare utensils, tools, and silverware. In addition to the utensils and silverware, pantry food/ingredients and refrigerated food will be added to the pantry. To finish the blue area, the bathroom furnishings need to be installed. First, the sink and mirror are installed near the door, then the toilet and toilet paper holders are installed next to the sink, and finally, the baby changing table and storage cabinet is installed along with the Dyson air dryer and neon lighting decoration.

CAD

Since many of the objects in the blue space are actually filler objects (plates, pots, food, appliances) that I inserted from BlenderKit, I only had to make the major installations. I started out by making the island area and its countertop. To make the island I simply made a new sketch, drawing out the rectangular-like shape (making sure to leave holes for the stove) and then extruding it to the height of the stove. After I extruded it to the appropriate height, I then created another sketch on the top part of the island and created a slight offset to create the overhang for the bar seating. I then extruded this face down and made the countertop. To make the rear countertop, I started out by making a new sketch and projecting the glass wall's profile to create an offset so that the countertop would conform to the wall. I then extruded this sketch making the countertop. Finally, I created the pantry's shelves by making a new sketch and using the offset tool to offset the wall's shape.

MAYA

I started out by adding the appropriate textures to all the objects that I imported from F360. Then, I started to import all the filler objects. I started out by importing genuine Bosch CAD files for the oven/stove and the hood vents (these can be found w/ other attributions in the Excel). Next, I imported various different pots and pans and placed them on the cooktop. Next, I added all the cabinetry to the rear countertop, making sure that each individual station had the same set of cabinets. I then started to form each cooking station by importing various utensils and tools each cook would need. I then copy and paste this set to all of the cooking stations. I finished out the main space by adding some communal tools to the communal workstation (including kitchen scales and kitchen mixers) and adding the chairs to the bar seating and general seating area. Next, I started to stock the pantry with various ingredients and tools including flour, sugar, beans, pasta, pots, pans, plates, silverware, and kitchen mixers. I also added some chest freezers and fridges that would hold perishable food. Finally, I furnished the bathroom by adding the toilet, toilet paper holder, sink and mirror, Dyson air dryer, cabinet/changing table, and decorations. To render out all the images I used a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

Before I start to explain the setup process, I want to recap the actual meaning and use of the red space. The red space represents an art and technology area designed to foster creativity and collaboration among individuals interested in various forms of art and technological pursuits. To enable the red space to fulfill its mission of promoting creativity and collaboration, the space needs to be outfitted with all the technology and art supplies it needs. Starting out with the rear work area, a large desk and countertop combo will be installed. The desk is split up into 5 cubbies, 3 computer stations, and 2 drafting stations. Additionally, each station will get its own set of outlets and office chairs. After the desk is installed, four easels will be set up next to the glass wall to give an easy view of the nature and outdoor environment. Next to the easel section, a small community countertop is set up with various paints and paintings, providing an area to dry and store paintings. In addition to this paint area, three additional tables and countertops will be installed to provide ample space to draw, paint, and share creative thoughts. The small-scale 3D print farm is also installed in the storage area to the left of the desk area. This storage area will house all the art supplies and utilities needed to supply the art and tech center. Finally, networking via Starlink is added and mounted in the storage area providing WiFi to the whole building and also enabling a queue feature for the 3D print farm and computers (this allows for a queue to be formed to use a 3D printer or computer in the event it is already being used).

CAD

Similar to the blue section, most of the models in the renders are actually filler objects, however, all of the desks, tables, and storage areas had to be designed in F360. I started out by designing the large desk. To make the desk, I began by making a new sketch and creating the wavy design that created each of the 5 "cubbies" in the desk. I then extruded this shape to make the actual body of the desk. Then, I made the actual tabletop of the desk by using the same sketch except that I also extruded the cubbies. After making the desk, I then made the kidney-shaped tables by creating a new sketch and freehanding the kidney shape in a way that would most efficiently and effectively use the available space. I then extruded this shape to actually form the tables. Finally, I ended by creating individual shelves for the storage area. To create the shelves I just reused the old shelves from the pantry that I made in the previous step.

MAYA

Before importing all the filler objects, I started to apply textures to the parts that I made in F360. Starting with the desk, I decided to apply a basic dark red material to represent the red area. After the desk, I then applied a wood texture to the desk's tabletop, the kidney-shaped table legs, and the surrounding countertops and shelves. After applying all the textures I then began to fill in the area. I started out by outfitting each of the desk areas with computers and drafting tables. I first imported the computer, monitor, and appropriate peripherals for the computer desks. I then copy and pasted the whole computer setup to each of the three computer cubbies. Then, I set up the drafting area by importing a drafting desk, lamps, pencils and pencil cup, pens, ruler, caliper, compass, protractor, and triangle ruler. Like the computers, I also copy and pasted the whole setup to the other drafting cubby. I also imported color-coated office chairs to distinguish each of the different cubbies. Moving on to the art section, I started out by importing four easels and some art for the easel section to the right of the desk area. Then, I added some paints, brushes, and other art supplies to the community tabletop that would also act as an art drying and storing area. After the community tabletop, I added various art supplies and drawing paper to the remaining countertops and the kidney-shaped tables. Finally, I ended the scene off by importing some 3D printers to the 3D print farm. To render out all the images I used a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

Like the previous blue and red spaces, I want to start by recapping the actual meaning and use of the green space. The green space represents a nature-focused and scientific area designed to foster learning and collaboration among individuals interested in nature, science, and local wildlife. To enable the green space to fulfill its mission, planters, and fish tanks must be installed. First, the hydroponic fish tanks are assembled and installed. Since the planters rely on a hydroponic system, each planter will have an injector at the bottom that feeds nutrients into the hydroponic pool below the mulch/hydroponic growing media. Additionally, water lines will be connected to the planters through the base of the building. After the planters are installed, community members can then start to plant and grow various flowers, fruits, veggies, and other decorative plants. After the planters are installed, the fish tank bases are hooked up to the running water supply (this water supply only feeds to a holding tank that mixes nutrients and food before it is released to the main tank, meaning that the water supply will never come in direct contact with the main tank) with a one-way valve. Since the fish tanks are not actually connected to the full water loop, a new water line must be installed so that water can leave the fish tank system. This new water line will reattach to the main water line before the reverse osmosis filter so that the water can be filtered and reused. Finally, the main tanks are installed and filled with water, native fish, and native corral/underwater plants.

CAD

Unlike the red and blue sections, the green section is mostly made up of objects made in F360. I started out by designing the center planter. To make the center planter, I made a new sketch and started by outlining the center wall and then making a U-style shape to allow for people to interact with the planter from more directions. I then extruded this shape up to the height at which the hydroponics growing media would be. Then, I created another sketch on this face and offset and extruded the face to create the retaining border. I then moved on to create the other planter by making the rectangular sketch and then chamfering the top edges. I then used the same extruding, offsetting, and extruding techniques to form the base and retaining wall of the planter. After making the planters, I then moved on to create the fish tanks. I started by making the cylindrical base and chamfering the bottom edge. Then, I offset the base and extruded the fish tank body. Finally, I finished the fish tanks by chamfering the top edge and copying and pasting the fish tanks along the wall.

Maya

I started out by importing all the F360 objects into the scene. I then started to apply all the various textures to the planters and fish tank (more on the fish tank later). On the planters, I added a wood plank texture to the main body of the planters, and then I applied a green-painted wood material to the retaining wall on the top portion of the planters. Finally, I finished the planters by applying a growing media material to the top portion of the planters. I then moved on to apply textures to the fish tanks. I started by applying green concrete (I selected concrete because the bases would need to be made of a high-weight material) textures to the bases of the fish tank and then applying a glass texture to the main bodies of the fish tank. To add fish, water, and underwater plants to the tank, I decided I would use a high-def underwater ocean HDRI as a texture. This actually worked out much better than I expected, since they have a realistic-looking interior but in reality, it's just a texture. I finished the scene by importing various different plants and flowers and positioning them in the hydroponic planters. To render out all the images I used a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real Life

Now that the interior decorations and utilities are finished, it's time to move on to the outdoor decorations and utilities. Beginning with the upper deck, AC and solar utilities will be installed on the rear tip of the building. First, the 8 rows of solar panels will be installed, and then the HVAC's AC condensers will be installed next to the solar panels. In order to connect all the utilities to their respective indoor utilities, wiring, and plumbing will need to be installed inside the roof. Beginning with the solar panels, a solar controller will need to be installed onto the solar panels so that the solar panels charge and operate at appropriate levels. After installing the solar controllers, low gauge (the lower the gauge, the more power and electricity can flow - somewhat unintuitive) wires are run down into the roof and through the low gauge wiring conduit that feeds into the electrical room and then into the battery pack and main inverter. After the solar panels are connected, plumbing for the coolant and return lines need to be installed to connect the AC condensers to the HVAC systems in the HVAC utility room. These return lines and the coolant lines will be run through the roof and into the HVAC utility room. After utilities are installed, the lower deck decorations will be installed. First, the movie theatre projector screen will be installed and electrical lines will be run to the projector in front of the screen. After the screen is installed, theatre-style seating will be installed in front of the screen.

CAD

Beginning with the upper deck, I started to model the solar panels by creating a new plane at an angle. I then created each of the solar panels by creating a rectangle in a new sketch on that plane. I then extruded this rectangle, and I copied and pasted the rectangles to form the series of solar panels. Then I used the glass walls' surfaces as tools to split the rectangles so that they would fit in the tip of the building. I then started to design the parts for the lower deck. Since I already made the lower deck's railing, I needed to make the theatre screen that would fit in between the gap in the railing. To make the screen, I created a midplane in the middle of the gap in the railing and then created the theatre screen's profile. I then used the edge of the deck as a path when I swept the theatre screen's profile. Finally, I ended off by making the theatre seating by using the same midplane and creating the seats' profile. I used the building's walls as the path to sweep the profile.

MAYA

I started out by applying all the textures to the F360 objects. First, I applied solar panel texture to the front part of the solar panels and then I made a basic metal material to apply to the border, sides, and back part of the solar panels. Next, I applied a wood texture to the seats of theatre seats and then I applied a blue-painted wood texture to the frame of the actual seating. Finally, I finished by applying a white material to the front part of the theatre screen and then a blue paint material to the frame of the screen. After applying all the textures, I then imported the AC condenser units from Blender Kit and placed them next to the solar panels. Like before, I rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

Installation

To install the drawbridge utilities, the main mechanical components must be installed. First, counterweight arches are installed on each drawbridge so that counterweights and motors can be installed. Within these arches, counterweights are installed that balance out the weight of the bridge itself. This counterweight enables the drawbridge's motors to move the bridge without actually having to lift the bridge, all the motors will have to do is move the cable slightly and the counterweight and gravity will do the rest of the work. After the counterweights, arches, and motors are installed, the steel cables connecting the counterweights to the bridge are installed on the anchor points on the bridge. Finally, electronics and wiring are run through the base of the building, connecting the drawbridge to the control panel in the utility room.

Math and Physics

The main Physics problem in creating the drawbridge is how much should the counterweight weigh to make the motor's work as easy as possible. The main Physics principle used to calculate this weight is Rotational Kinematics - Equilibrium of Rigid Bodies (Torques). Before starting to explain the actual scenario, I drew up a moc scenario describing the problem at hand (third image).

• First, the drawbridge platform's weight must be calculated:

Using the previous estimate of 200lbs/Ft^2 (mentioned when creating the barrel base), we can calculate the weight

Mass:200 x 500 = 100,000 lbs = 50T

Weight = Mass x Acceleration due to Gravity (g)

W = 50T x 10 m/s^2

W = -500N

• Next, we must find the tension force to balance out the -500N

As I described in the moc scenario, the angle that the cable makes with the bridge is approximately 45 degrees.

θ = 45 degrees

Vertical component tension force needed = +500N

X = Tension Force / Weight of Counterweight

Xsin(θ) = +500N

Xsin(45) = +500N

X = +500N / sin(45)

X = 707.11N

• Now that we know the counterweight weighs 707.11N, all we need to do is deduce the actual mass of the counterweight.

M = Counterweight Mass

Weight = Mass x Acceleration due to Gravity (g)

707.11 = M x 10 m/s^2

M = 707.11 / 10 m/s^2

M = 70.711T

So now we know that the counterweight for the bridge must be roughly 70T for the bridge to maintain perfect rotational equilibrium.

CAD

Since the whole drawbridge assembly was already made in previous steps, I will focus on the actual mechanical components of the drawbridge. I started out by making the counterweights and counterweight arches. To make the counterweight arches, I created a new plane to create the profile of the arch, then I made an offset of the profile to create the hollow void where the counterweight would reside, and finally, I extruded the arch and then mirrored the body to the other side. To make the counterweights, I used the hollow void as a starting point and then used the offset tool to make the counterweight slightly smaller than the void (to allow for smooth movement). Finally, I ended by creating the steel cables that connected the counterweights to the anchors on the drawbridge. To make the cables I made a path and then perpendicular to the path I created a circle sketch. Then, I used the sweep tool to sweep the sketch across the path, making the two cables.

MAYA

Since there weren't many new parts that I had to apply textures to, I decided that I would reuse textures. For the counterweight arches and the counterweights, I just reused concrete textures from the flooring indoors. For the steel cables, I reused the same metal material used in the drawbridge hinges. Like before, I rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Now that I've already designed the community building, it's time to connect it to the land. To do this, I chose to use pontoon-style rafts that connect together to form one large, flexible bridge. The main inspiration behind this idea is actually the U.S. Army's improved ribbon bridges or IRBs, which utilize small connected sections of pontoon rafts with road platforms to make one large bridge that tanks and other military vehicles can use to cross bodies of water. I chose this style of bridge mainly because it is highly maneuverable and can easily be disassembled and moved to another location. Additionally, since the bridge can be built in portions on land, community members can collectively help to build the bridge, allowing the community to feel a sense of accomplishment and also allowing them to add personal, custom additions to the bridges (decorations).

Image Credits:

Image 1 - U.S. Dept. of Defense and Image 2 - U.S. Army

Now that the building is complete, we need to analyze the electrical and water lines/ wires running through the building. First, let's focus on the floor's electrical lines. A mainline branches from the breaker box in the electrical utility room. This main line will first branch off to the green area where the lines will connect to the pumps in both the hydroponic planters and fish tanks. Next, the line will branch off to the blue area where the lines are connected to both stoves in the island and then connected to all the outlets on the rear countertop area, and finally connected to the freezers in the pantry. Finally, the electrical lines branch out to the red section where the lines are connected to the computer desks and 3D print farm and then finally branch off to connect the projector outside. Next, the electrical lines in the roof are run. These lines branch out from the same breaker box and connect to all the roof lights and additionally connect to the breaker box in the other utility room. Finally, the blue 48V lines running directly from the solar panels are connected to the battery pack and then the DC to AC inverter. After the electrical lines, the plumbing lines are then connected. The treated water pipes branch out from the water tank to the main hallway. From there, the lines branch out to the bathroom and then the green area, where the lines are connected to the hydroponic planters and then the fish tanks. Finally, the lines are run to the sink on the kitchen island. After the treated water lines are run, the grey water lines are run next to the treated water lines, connecting the loop to the grey water tank.

Real World

Like in the community center, the main foundation for the pontoon bridge sections will be 55 gal blue drumss. Since we've already determined that one blue drums can displace 455 lbs, all we need to find out is the approx weight of the final bridge section. To do this, we need to analyze the weight of the specific objects that will make up the bridge

Material Weights

• 4'x8'x3/4" Plywood - 55 lbs / board
• 12'x6"x6" Fence Post - 101 lbs / 12 Ft
• 3/4" Steel Cable - 1 lb / 1 Ft
• 2"x4"x12' Decking - 18 lbs / 12 Ft
• Steel Couplings - 250 lbs / coupling
• Rubber and Steel Gap Connectors - 1000 / set

Materials Used

• 4'x8'x3/4" Plywood - 9 Boards
• 12'x6"x6" Fence Post - 24 Ft
• 3/4" Steel Cable - 60 Ft
• 2"x4"x12' Decking - 567 Ft
• Steel Couplings - 9 couplings
• Rubber and Steel Gap Connectors - 2 sets

Final Weight

• 495 lbs + 202 lbs + 60 lbs + 850 lbs + 2,250 lbs + 2000 lbs = 5,857 lbs

Now that we know the final weight of each bridge section, we need to calculate how many drums are needed to support each of the bridge sections.

Drums Needed

• 5,857 / 455 ≈ 13 Drums



With the weight of the raft being about 5,750 lbs, we would need 13 drums, however, this does not take into account the weight of the pedestrian traffic that will use the bridges. So, to be sure the bridges can handle their own weight and the weight of pedestrian traffic, 16 Drums will be used to allow for a max weight of about 7,250 lbs.

CAD

To make the rafts, I just copy and pasted over one of the drums from the base of the community center. I then used the square pattern tool to create a 4x4 grid of 55 gal drums.

MAYA

To make the new scene, I started out by importing the same ocean and ocean texture from the community center scene. Then, I imported all the barrels and applied the blue plastic texture to them. As I did with the community center scene, I rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

Now that the 55 gal drums are set in the 4x4 configuration, the plywood base and decking can be installed along with the railings. First, the plywood base has to be installed. Since the dimensions of the bridge section are 12 Ft x 8 Ft, the plywood platform can be perfectly made out of 3, 4 Ft x 8 Ft plywood boards, without having to make any cuts or adjustments. Since the base of the community center is made using the shell and ribbing technique, the base of the bridge sections will have to be thicker so that both the bridges and the building are at the same level. To adjust the height of the bridge's deck, more plywood sheets can simply be added to compensate for the delta in height. After installing the base, the 2 in x 4 in decking can be installed perpendicular to the 12 Ft side of the bridge section. Finally, the 6 in x 6 in railing posts can be installed and then holes can be drilled so that the steel cables can be run.

CAD

I started out by making the base of the actual bridge section. To do this I just made a simple rectangular sketch and extruded it to the same height as the community center. I then created the six railing posts by making a rectangular pattern of 6in x 6in squares. After extruding the squares, I then added the 5 holes to each post so that the steel cables can be run inside of the posts. I ended by extruding all the steel cables that would make up the railing.

MAYA

To keep the same style as the community center, I used the same wood and steel textures for the railings. However, the decking texture for the deck of the bridge was changed to the 2x4 style decking. I then rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

To couple the bridge sections together, small metal brackets under the base of the bridge are installed and then steel cables are run through each of the brackets and tensioned at the bridge landings. These cables act as a retention mechanism, keeping all the bridge sections in order and preventing an individual section of the bridge from breaking off. Additionally, these wires allow for slight expansion and contraction of the bridge which helps control the flexing and bending of the bridge (more on that later). In addition to coupling the bridge sections together, this bracket and wire combination allows for small anchors to be strung from an individual bridge section, this creates small points where the bridge is fixed (similar to the apexes/ points on a spline curve).

CAD

To create these individual brackets, I first created a new plane parallel to the ends of the drums. On this plane, I then traced out the overall shape of the bracket and then made the internal hole where the cables can be run. I then extruded this sketch and then used the rectangular pattern tool to create the rest of the individual brackets that would connect to the base of the bridge.

MAYA

Since these brackets are made out of stainless steel (to prevent rust), I applied a shiny metal material onto all the brackets. I then rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

To bridge the gaps between the bridge sections when the bridge moves or flexes (for example if the bridge curved left, the inside arc will have a smaller radius compared to the outer, so there will be a gap formed between each bridge section), special dovetail brackets and rubber connectors will be used. These rubber connectors can squish or expand to fill the gap between the bridges. Not only do these rubber connectors help prevent gaps from forming and causing safety concerns, but the gaps also act as shock absorbers when waves or other forces push or move the bridge. Finally, the rubber connectors also act as a redundancy/temporary connector when the bridge segments are getting connected (steel cables have yet to be run through the underside brackets) or even in the case of cable failure.

CAD

I started out by creating the dovetail bracket that accepts the other dovetail connector on the rubber connector portion. To make the brackets, I started out by making a new sketch and projecting the edge of the deck. I then started to create a thin rectangle and then added the triangular female dovetail features that would accept the male dovetail connectors on the rubber connector. I then extruded the whole object and added chamfers to all the edges so that the connectors could move slightly when the bridge flexed or moved. I then started to make the rubber connectors by projecting the bracket in a new sketch. Finally, I offset and mirrored the projected geometry to form the rubber connector, and I finished the connector by extruding the part.

MAYA

I started out by importing the two rubber connector sets. I simply reused the metal material from the underside connector and then I used a rubber texture on the rubber part of the connector. I then rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

Once the bridge sections are temporarily attached together using the rubber gap connectors, the permanent coupling system is installed. To connect the sections permanently, the three steel cables are strung through each of the steel connectors under the bridge sections. Now, to maintain the actual overall shape of the bridge, each of the three cables can be tensioned to a point where one side will have more tension than the other, causing a curve to form. To tension these cables, clamps at the landings will be torqued to specific Nm (ft/lb) values, for example, to create a slight right curve in the bridge, the leftmost cable will be torqued to the lowest possible amount and then the remaining cables will be torqued in sequential order so that, at the end, the rightmost cable will be torqued the most. As I previously mentioned, the gaps created by curves in the bridge must also be managed. You can now see that the gap connectors also flex and bend to accommodate the wider or shorter gaps between each of the bridge sections.

CAD

In this step, the only new object that needed to be created were the steel cables that connect the bridge sections, but before I started to model the cables, I decided that I would first arrange all the bridge sections by copying and pasting the one bridge section I had previously made. After arranging the sections, I then created a new sketch and projected all the mounting brackets for the steel cables. After projecting these brackets, I then created a spline that connected the center point of all the brackets in one specific cable row. After doing this process for each row, I then swept the circular cable face using the three spines to create the full-length cables.

MAYA

Since I had already applied all the textures to the singular bridge section, all I had to do was copy and paste the same textures over to the new full-length bridge. However, I did have to apply the steel texture to the three cables. I then rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

Real World

Before the bridges can actually be installed, the bridge landings must be built so that the bridges can be properly secured to the land. To make the bridge landings, wood forms are made. After the forms are made, rebar is added to improve the tensile strength of the concrete along with mounting bolts for the steel cables. After the concrete sets, short railings are installed to make sure that no one falls off the upper part of the landing. Finally, the welcome sign is installed to the side of the landing.

CAD

I started out by copying and pasting the gap connector over as a starting point for the main concrete portion of the landing. After copying the connector, I then created a wide polygon shape and extruded it to the ground level. After creating the large polygon shape, I then used the chamfer tool to create the inclined ramp up to the bridge. I finished off the main landing by creating small side platforms that would support the railing and then created the railing timbers and the railings themselves. I finished by creating the "National Park Style" welcome sign, using the same iconic shape, but instead using the triFusion logo and a different F360 font.

MAYA

Before starting to apply textures to the landings, I imported some terrain from BlenderKit into the existing scene so that the landings actually had somewhere to connect the bridge. To start with the landing, I applied the same metal and rubber textures to the gap connectors that are installed on the landings. I also reused the same textures for the railings and railing posts. I then applied a basic concrete tile texture to the main portion of the landing. Finally, I ended the scene off by applying all the paint textures to the welcome sign. I then rendered out all the images using a variety of different focal lenses and image sizes, however, all renders were rendered at 1000 samples.

As I previously mentioned, one of the main purposes of making the bridge a pontoon-style bridge was to allow the community to be involved in the construction of the community center as a whole. Since the construction of the bridge is fairly straightforward compared to something like the building itself, many community members will be able to lend a hand in building the bridge.

This hands-on involvement of community members in building the pontoon-style bridge holds immense significance beyond just the practicality of construction. By engaging the community in this endeavor, the bridge becomes more than just a physical structure, it transforms into a symbol of unity, collaboration, and shared responsibility. The bridge becomes a representation of the collective spirit and dedication of the people, working together towards a common goal.

The act of participating in the construction process instills a sense of ownership and pride among the community members. As they contribute their time and effort to construct the bridge, they establish a personal connection with the project. This emotional investment fosters a deeper attachment to the bridge and the upcoming community center, leading to increased care and respect for the facilities once they are completed.

Furthermore, the bridge-building process serves as an opportunity for skill-sharing and knowledge transfer within the community. Experienced builders or engineers can guide and mentor those with less experience, creating a dynamic learning environment. People new to the construction environment have the chance to learn practical construction skills, which can empower them to take on future projects and potentially even pursue careers in related fields. This skill development enhances the overall human capital of the community, contributing to its long-term growth and resilience.

Image Source - Link

Final Attribution Statement - Attribution Statment Google Sheet

Now that all the designs are made, its time to start making the actual physical prototype for the community center and bridge. Some of the tools I used are scissors, an exacto knife, deburring tool, tape, solder, a ruler, hot glue and glue gun, and a ruler (also seen above).

To start making the prototype, I first made the roof and base of the community center out of cardboard. To make the exact shape of the base and roof, I just imported the roof and base from the main F360 file to a new file where I would scale everything to 1/40 scale size. I then created individual PDF drawings of the parts by pushing each object to PDF using F360. After I made the PDF, I used Adobe Acrobat to print out all the individual sheets of paper to make up one large poster-sized drawing. After I printed out all the paper, I then individually cut and taped together all the corresponding pieces of paper (Don't worry this paper was actually used one-sided prints that I recycled after I printed the poster, I then made sure to recycle the paper again) to make the template for the cardboard. I then cut out all the cardboard pieces using kitchen sheers. I finished off the base and roof by wrapping them in a white cardstock baselayer in preparation for the print-out materials in the next step.

After I applied the cardstock base layer, I printed out some wood decking and concrete material textures so that I could cut and apply them to the base of the building. However, before I actually started to apply the materials, I needed to define the area that would use the decking and the area that would use the concrete. To do this, I made another PDF of the indoor portion of the building and repeated the same steps to make the 1/40-size paper poster. After sketching out the perimeter of the indoor area, I then started to cut, align, and tape the decking material to the deck portion of the base. I finished off by cutting and taping the indoor concrete material to the indoor portion.

After creating the base and roof of the building, I then started to 3D print all the exterior colored and glass walls. To 3D print all the wall components, I imported the parts that I wanted to print into the 1/40 scale model file. I then scaled all the parts to the correct size and then started slicing the models directly from F360. I then sent all the same colored parts to a new print job (all red parts, green, blue, and translucent). All parts had come out perfectly except for the red wall, my printer had a clog at around 95% of the print. I decided that I didn't want to create any waste so I searched for a solution to recoup the print. I had found that the remaining height of the wall was the exact width of a popsicle stick, so I decided that I would use a couple of popsicle sticks and some red-colored construction paper and make a makeshift base for the wall. The improvised wall actually turned out much better than expected. Once I fixed this wall, I then glued together all three main wall sections (blue-green, red-green, red-blue) using the hot glue gun. Finally, I applied all the shelve portions of the 3D print farm since it would be much more difficult to install once the walls were actually glued to the base. I then finished by hot gluing all the walls into place, following the concrete material already applied to the base of the building.

After installing all the walls, I then started to add the interior decorations. I started by 3D printing the main hydroponic planters using the same scale method that I mentioned in the previous steps. To add some more realism to the planters, I decided that I would cut out and apply some growing media texture that would represent the hydroponic growing media in the real planters. After installing the planters, I then installed the aquarium tanks. I printed these tanks using a metallic filament that would represent the overall shininess of the tanks. After applying all the finishing touches on the decorations, I then used hot glue to glue down all the components in their respective space.

Similar to the green section, I also 3D printed scale models of the decorations within the blue space. This time, however, I printed the island and table as two parts, making the cabinets navy blue and the countertops light brown. Also, I added sinks and cooktops to the top of the island area using spare sheets of construction paper that I had used to make other parts of the building. After applying all the finishing touches on the decorations, I then used hot glue to glue down all the components in their respective space.

I finished off the interior decorations by installing the red section's decorations and then finally adding all the interior walls and countertops. For the red section, I started out by printing the main desk area in the back section using the same technique as I did in the blue section to make the countertop and main desk different colors. I then started to add all the interior walls with the countertop sections. To make these indoor walls, I used scale models and 3D printed both the walls and the countertops and then glued them together as shown above. After applying all the finishing touches on the decorations, I then used hot glue to glue down all the components in their respective space.

To make the deck railings, I used a strange yet simple technique, using solder and 3D-printed posts to make the whole railing. I first started by gluing all the posts in place, making sure that the holes for the solder were correctly oriented. After the posts were all glued in place, I strung the solder through all the holes in the posts. To make the process of securing the solder in place easier, I looped the solder around so that I would only have to secure the solder in place once at each end of the railing. To secure the solder, I simply used hot glue, making sure to keep the tip of the glue gun away from the solder as it was hot enough to melt the solder.

After installing the bottom deck railing, I then moved on to the upper deck, installing all the railings and utilities. I started by gluing in place all the risers for the stairs. After gluing together the main parts of the stairs, I then glued the whole assembly to the blue stair wall on the side of the building. After assembling the stairs, I then started to assemble all the parts of the upper railing. Since my 3D printer has a small print, I first scaled down the railing and then split the railing up so that I could actually 3D print the whole railing on my 3D printer. After printing all the parts for the railing, I then started to assemble the railing as a whole using the hot glue gun. Finally, I ended by 3D printing the solar panel array and then applying the solar panel texture that I printed.

To make the drawbridge, I first had to create all the drawbridge platforms. To make the platforms, I used the same PDF and cardboard technique that I used to make the roof and base of the building. After cutting out the cardboard platforms, I applied colored construction paper to all the platforms. To make the drawbridge functional, I first installed all the hinges that I 3D Printed and connected the platforms via a small pin that I 3D printed. I then started to add all railings and accessories to the bridge platforms so I could start weighing the platforms. After installing the railings using the same technique that I used to make the lower deck railings, I started to weigh the platforms so that I could make an appropriate counterweight. In this case, I would need 64 grams of counterweight (there are 2 counterweights so each will be 32 grams) to counteract the 47 grams the drawbridge platforms weigh. To make the counterweights, I simply used a 3D printed counterweight that I made that had spaces for small screws that would increase the counterweights' weight incrementally. Once all the calculations were done, the drawbridge arches were installed along with the counterweights and the connecting solder wires.

The last part of the prototype is the bridge. To make the bridge sections, I first printed the 55gal drums that would act as a base (I hollowed out the inside to save as much plastic as I could). After printing all 6 of the drum bases, I then started to make popsicle stick sheets that would act as the decking for the bridge sections. After creating all these sheets, I then used the hot glue gun to glue all the sheets to the actual drum bases of the bridges. After installing all the decking sheets to the 3D-printed drums, I then added the railings using the same technique as the previous railings.

This is the HOA Proposal I made:

Page 2

TriFusion is a community-building project aimed at addressing the need for social interaction and civic engagement in a digitally dominated world. The project centers around the construction of a community center located in the center of a lake, connected to different parts of the community by three pontoon-style bridges.

The motivation behind TriFusion stems from the long bike ride that I had to undertake to reach my cousin's house, where a stretch of sidewalk next to a busy road posed significant risks. By building the community center, I envision a safer environment and a smaller travel distance for community members, fostering bonds and learning opportunities among them.

The layout of TriFusion comprises a main building at the center of the lake, with three pontoon-style bridges extending from it. The main building size is approximately 100ft in diameter, providing a central hub for community activities and gatherings.

The landing points for the bridges would be strategically located throughout the community area. One of the landing points would connect to the existing community center's dock, while others could be adaptable to meet the community's changing needs.

The construction process involves building the main building on land and then transporting it to the designated lift site, where cranes would lift it into the water. Anchors would be used to secure the building in place. The pontoon sections of the bridges would be built on-site with the help of community teamwork, gradually assembling the bridges from the landing docks towards the main building.

Overall, TriFusion aims to create a space that encourages social interaction, learning, and community bonding while enhancing safety and accessibility within the neighborhood.

Page 3

After all materials and labor are accounted for, the estimated upfront costs of the whole building, including the bridges and landings, is about $3,000,000. While this may sound like a large number, a slight increase in HOA member cost can actually pay for the building in a short amount of time. With 1600 members in the community and a $350 / member increase, the cost of the community center can be amassed in about 5 years.

To sum up my project, I made a tri-themed community center whose goal is to connect people through Art, Nature, and Multicultural Cuisine. I really enjoyed making, designing, rendering, and finally prototyping the whole project this summer. Now all I have to do is present the design to the HOA board!