Tool Storage Hacks (or How to Hang Those Black Friday Screwdrivers)

I didn't really need new screwdrivers. But what's a guy gonna do? The old ones didn't all match, and these were on sale.

This Instructable covers three little storage hacks:

1. Making a keyhole mount in the belt clip for a hex driver set.
2. Hanging screwdrivers.
3. Making a metal bracket for socket extensions.

And remember, just because you can use store bought pegboard brackets, there isn't some rule that says you have to. You can do all this with a cordless drill.

1. Lay the screwdrivers where you want them. Be careful to leave enough room for small handles to be pulled straight up past the bulge in the large handles.
2. Mark the center of the tool handles.
3. Set your combination square to mark a the distance from the long edge.
4. Measure the width of the thickest part of the screwdriver.
5. Make a note on your workpiece to indicate what size drill bit to use for each hole. I just used two sizes, but should have gone a little smaller for the smallest shafts.
6. Drill the holes and clean up with a hand plane, sandpaper, a Dremel, or whatever you like.

I really like these hex shank nut drivers for small fasteners. They lock into the impact driver, and are more rigid than using a 1/4" socket adapter. But I would look silly walking around with a set clipped on my belt, so here is how I put them on the wall:

1. Drill a hole big enough for your screw head. I used a deck screw, but a sheet metal screw would hang better. Use a small Forestner bit for this, the plastic is soft and a twist drill would be to grabby.
2. Drill a second smaller hole above the first.
3. Clean some of the web away with a sharp knife.
4. Test fit a screw, and cut away to make it fit. Remember you can cut more away, but can't really put it back.

Space is at a premium on my pegboard, so rather than mounting side-by-side, I went straight out. This is made from a scrap of 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide mild steel.

1. Drill holes for the extensions. 3/8" hole for the 1/4" extension, 1/2" for the 3/8" extension. If you haven't drilled metal before here is how you do it.
   
   • Mark where you want the hole with a center punch. This will keep the bit from wandering around when you try to start the hole.
   • Put a drop of oil on the hole. Cutting fluid is best, but you can use about anything including kitchen oil or WD40. The idea is to help sink the heat away from your drill bit and lube up the exit path for the drill swarth.
   • Clamp it in a vise or drill press. Seriously kids, drills seem safe, but spinning metal will mess you up.
   • Go pretty slow, and push really hard. If you go fast, the friction will heat up your drill bit, soften the metal, wreck the cutting edge, and you will never get through the metal.
   • Back off the pressure right before the bit pushes through. The flutes of the drill bit will snag in your hole, and jerk the drill in your hand.
2. Drill smaller holes for screwing to your pegboard.
3. Put the metal in the vise with the small holes sticking out. If you try to hammer on the end with the big holes, the small web on the side of your holes will bend and ruin your piece.
4. Hammer the metal into a 90-degree bend in the vise. You can soften the metal up with a propane torch, but I didn't bother. I have all kinds of hammers out in my blacksmith shop, but I just whacked this with a claw hammer.
5. Install some screws and your are done.

My wood shop is in my basement, and I like to keep a set of mechanic tools handy. My garage has a big rolling tool chest with 1/2" sockets, impact drivers, big wrenches, and all that. But for sculpture, fabrication, and adjusting/assembling most equipment, a set of 3/8" and 1/4" sockets, and wrenches up to 7/8" get the job done.