Tony Stark Repulsor

Hello multiverse, is that too weak? Not enough fluff. Welcome to the Iron Man show! You know who I am and you're about to learn how to make the coveted repulsor glove. For the record, it was my idea and if you profit off it Stark Industries will sue you. But does that mean I'm suing myself? Anyways...

Now how did Tony Stark build this in a cave with a box of scraps? Well this is what the Genius (capital G) used:

• A small winter glove
• JST connector
• CPX
• AA battery pack (because why would I make you make a miniaturized arc reactor?)
• Some wire
• Wirecutters
• Neopixel strip
• USB A to mini micro USB cable
• A decent computer to code
• General sewing materials
• Force resistor
• DC motor
• Soldering gun
• Soldering wick
• Electric tape... and lots of it
• A good wide table
• A notepad for design work on the go and writing down how much of a genius you are

Trim the wire ends on both the JST and battery pack so that they are exposed... kind of how you'll be once they find out you're Iron Man.

Twist the ends just to make sure they're nice and neat and not sprawling out.

Then you want to lay down some electric tape to make a "bed" on the table so that you can solder without damaging the table in any way. Don't want to mess up your work space.

Lay the same color wires from the JST and battery pack next to each other on your bed so they are touching.

Soak your sponge. Not dripping wet, but soaked.

Then get to soldering with the wick and solder gun. Set the gun to about 300-350 degrees celsius. Hold the wick near the middle of the exposed wires, brush the gun against the wires so that a blob of sick is on the gun and gently rub it along the middle of the wires so that when the wick dries (which will happen in just a few seconds) it connects the two wires. Clean the gun on the sponge after every dab of wick on the wire. Keep it up until the wires are connected and shiny on both ends. Shiny... like the MK II suit before the hot rod paint

Unplug the soldering gun for now.

Now Tony Stark in this universe had a bit of a moment when soldering the first time but it all works out.

Put the batteries in the battery pack.

We can't have you harming anyone so we're using a CPX to give you that flashy look without the danger

Start sewing the CPX into the glove as best as you can, hell, you'll kill it! You're me! You're me... right?

If you're new to sewing go for a different colored thread than your glove. It'll be easier to see where you've started, been, and will end.

Connect the JST to the CPX.

You want to pull the wire slack back as much as possible so its a nice "clean" look. As clean as you're going to get for your MK I glove anyways. I could do better...

Pull the slack and then tape the wire in place to the battery pack after you've connected it.

Boot up the power supply and check if your CPX works!

Get your electrical tape Stark and get a real long piece of it. Maybe 2. It'll solve the icing problem I promise.

Slide the glove on and precariously perch the battery pack on the top of your wrist.

Grab that strand of tape and tape it around your wrist tight, but not too tight. You want to be able to put your hand in it again later and be able to take your hand out too.

If you're feeling like having aesthetic and utility these next few steps will be more work for you but you'll manage.

Minimal Work

Grab your pixel strip, count out 5 lights, cut after the 5th light

Grab decent strip of tape.

Cut it in half length wise.

Grab one half, cut a small square.

Fold it over itself so it it becomes double sided.

Flip your pixel strip over.

Place that piece of tape on the back of one of the pixels, avoiding the gold connectors.

Rinse and repeat cutting small squares of tape and placing them on the strip.

Place the strip across the knuckle end of the glove.

Slightly More Work:

Grab your pixel strip, count out 5 lights, cut after the 5th light

Grab decent strip of tape.

Cut it in half length wise.

Grab one half, cut a small square.

Fold it over itself so it it becomes double sided.

Flip your pixel strip over.

Place that piece of tape on the back of one of the pixels, avoiding the gold connectors.

Rinse and repeat cutting small squares of tape and placing them on the strip.

Place the strip across the knuckle end of the glove.

Cut one more pixel and place it in the center of the backside of the glove (same side as your pixel strip).

More Work:

You want real looking Infinity Stones huh? We can manage that.

Grab your pixel strip, count 6 lights, cut after the 6th light.

Take those 6 lights and cut each one so you have 6 separate lights.

Grab decent strip of tape.

Cut it in half length wise.

Grab one half, cut a small square.

Fold it over itself so it it becomes double sided.

Flip each light over.

Place that first square of tape on the backside of the light.

Rinse and repeat until you have each one with a piece of tape on the back.

Line up each pixel just below the knuckle of each finger and tape them down.

The 6th should go in the center of the glove below your pixel strip.

This step is a multi step-step? Is that a word? I'll pay Oxford to make it one.

Put the glove on and measure out a length of wire that will be a bit more than what you'll need to connect the VOUT, GND, and A1 pin to the neopixel.

Grab a lot of tape and tape over everything near the first area you're going to solder (can be any of the above ports).

Once thats done, you're going to make sure again that theres no glove showing and its all taped up minus that port.

Then expose one end of that wire you cut.

Give it a good twist so its all neat.

Feed it through the underside of that first port, fold it back on itself so that its "hooked" into place.

Grab your soldering kit (gun, wick, holder, and sponge).

This part gets a bit tricky but you're gonna want to solder the wick so that it lands on the edge of the port, goes over your hook, and over to the other side. This will take a couple dabs of wick to do.

Then you want to solder the wire so that it is connected to itself.

Place the wick near the middle of wire the meets itself and get to dabbing and cleaning your gun as you go.

Unplug once you're done.

Rinse and repeat all these steps for the ports you're going to be using (A1, VOUT, GND for now but if you want to jump ahead go ahead and solder some wire to 3.3V and another GND port (make sure these wires - minus the 3.3V - are long enough to get all the way to your battery pack after your hand is in the glove. The 3.3V needs to go halfway up your pointer finger))

Make sure all the connections are secure.

I did tell you it would be multistepped. Again?? Not a word. I'll pay Oxford for its addition.

Grab the VOUT wire you soldered and flip the glove over.

Find the 5V connection on the other side.

Thats where you'll be connecting this wire.

Skin the bad boy so he's exposed.

Twist him like usual so he's nice and neat

Hard part again.

Cut a small strip of tape.

Line up the end of the wire with the connection for the 5V.

Tape the wire down (over its "skin") so that it stays there.

Grab that tape you used for other side to cover all nonessential parts and do the same thing here. You would hate to burn a hole in that glove. 350 degrees celsius and the occasional shaky hand is no joke.

Solder the wire down.

Grab the A1 wire, do the same steps as above.

Grab the GND wire, do the same steps as above.

Unplug the soldering gun.

Grab your motor and your ground wire thats hooked up to the CPX.

Blue is your ground wire for the motor. Shear this a little bit so its more exposed or go hard mode and leave it the way it is.

Grab that other ground wire of yours and lead it around to the blue wire. Shear the wires so they can be easily lined up and soldered.

Solder them over the bed you made.

Make sure you have a decent force resistor or you will run into a million roadblocks (like I did and can't seem to solve currently) and place it over the bed.

Grab your 3.3V wire, connect it to one end of the resistor with solder after you've sheared the wire. Grab another strand of wire that is long enough to lead from the middle of your pointer finger to the exposed red wire of your motor.

Shear both sides.

Solder one end to the other connection point on the resistor. This will be annoying to do this whole process as the connection points (on my resistor anyways) are small.

Place the motor on the bed and solder that wires end to the red wire.

Make it all nice and shiny like the MK2.

Tony needs a little air here so heres a temporary fix for that.

Grab your DC motor and a small piece of tape.

Put the tape on the end of the spinning end of the motor and fold it in on itself so none of it is sticky anymore and looks like a little rectangle hanging off of it.

Now tape the motor to the battery packs top so that the spinning end will be hanging off the pack.

Tape the force resistor to your gloves pointer finger so the resistor is on the top of the finger.

I'm really just handing out resources...

https://makecode.com/_U0vFuhgvHg5e

Once you've downloaded it, drag it over to your CPX on your computer so it loads onto it.

Now unplug the CPX.

Put your glove on.

Turn on your battery pack.

Give your hand a shake.

Remember how I said I needed air? Press against that resistor. Makeshift fan while you work on the rest of the suit.

There you go Tony, high fives all around!