Tic-Tac-Toe 2 : a Brand New Tabletop Game

This is an original game conceived by Paolo Casarini and his original name is TRIS 2 (tris is the italian name for the classical tic-tac-toe game). Tris 2 works like the classic tic-tac-toe but it's 3D and has his own rules. Since Paolo conceived this to be played with classical 6-numbers dice, by attaching stickers on it, I had the idea to turn it in a 3D-printabile and portable game, with his own box. So here I'll explain you how to 3D print it and then hpw to play with it. Main game parts are 9 dices and a 5x5 grid. Optionally you can print a lid for bringing the game with you.

You can download 3D printing files at the following link:

https://makerworld.com/it/models/1397835-tris-2-deluxe-edition#profileId-1449130

You can find STL and 3MF versions for manufacturing the parts. The 3MF file is only compatible with Bambulab 3D-printers and contains 4 plates: one for each part I'll discuss in the steps below.

Dice are intened to be printed with a layer height of 0.08mm (the 3mf file is already set to doing this): this will require lot of time but signs on faces will be perfect and dice will come out very smooth. My advice is to use a smooth buildplate for dice (the Smooth Plate or the Cool Plate SuperTack), in this way all faces will be similar. Printing at 0.08 will allow a perfect fit for the symbols, that will be printed in a second step and in another color. If you choose to have Dice without colored symbols, only with symbol engraving, then you can print dice with a greater layer height.

You can skip this print if you prefer having dice with symbols engraved instead of colored as I wrote in the previous step. I added this to have symbols with different colors than the die body. I perfectly know using the AMS or other multicolor sysmtes, the different color effect can be achieved with less effort, but symbols printed in vertical walls will always have a different appearance than the ones on top and bottom surfaces and this will also require additional time and waste of filament.

Making symbols this way will allow who don't own an AMS to have dice with symbols in different colors. You can also consider to split symbols (I've grouped them as a single object in the 3mf file but are available as STL separate objects) and then make every symbol in a different color.

For printing symbols I prefer the textured buildplate and leave the textured surface on the external of the die. Symbols and engravings on dice are made with zero-tolerance, so it's needed a well-tuned 3D-printer and the lowest layer height for the dice. After the printing you can attach symbols on the dice using a drop of superglue.

It's a 5x5 grid acting as gaming field and box base. I designed it for having the 16 squares on the external perimeter in a different color, so the internal 3x3 grid will have the same color of the grid (the 16 external squares are configured, in the 3mf file, as separate objects).

I made it this way for two reasons: TRIS 2 game is backward-compatible with the old, classical, Tic-Tac-Toe, so the 3x3 internal grid can be used for this, and then the internal grid is also the start position for the TRIS 2 game. Anyway printing squares in different colors will require the AMS or other multi-color system.

You can choose to print the grid with squares all in the same color without problems. If you use a textured buildplate, the base will (probably) have more grip on a certain table surfaces.

The lid has an embedded logo on top, so it's better to print it in 2 colors for having a very cool box but an AMS or other multi-color system is needed.

You can print all of the lid in the same color but you'll not have the logo on top. My advice is to use a textured or 3D buildplate for having a cool surface finish.

Gaming base-grid and lid are designed to have a 0.15mm gap on every side. Having a well-tuned 3D-printer will allow the lid to be attached and removed with very low effort. If your printer is not well-tuned, this small tolerance will lead to a lid that stucks on base and will require lot of effort to be removed (or, worst, lid not attaching on the base), so you can consider slightly sanding the internal sides of the lid if this happens.

First than leave a bad review/comment please contact me so I can redesign the lid for having an higher tolerance that can suit your 3D-printer!

I made a PDF where I explain rules and you can download it below.