Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer (also TS-WX) Noctua Exhaust Fan Mod

The original fan of the Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer bothered me because it sounded like a vacuum. So i thought about replacing it with a noctua fan, which i did. The difference can be heard in the following wav files ^^

The Mod should also work with the TS-XW Racer as they should be identical.

Ad for the TS-GT I am not sure, but maybe it would also work.

Tools

• Screwdriver: 2 PH, 2 Hex, 2.5 Hex, 1mm Flathead
• Hexkey: 2 Hex
• Crimping tool, JST-XH Terminals
• Wirestripper (optional)
• Pliers (optional)
• Tweezers (optional)

Supplies:

• Noctua 5V Fan (either 40x10 or 40x20)
• 12 Washers M4 (for 20mm Noctua)
• Locktide medium (optional)
• 7 x 9x9mm Heatsinks (optional)
• DIY 5V to 3.3V Fan Noise Adapter

Remove the Screws as labeled in the pictures.

Front

• 2 x 2 hex (black) on the Front (left and right)
• 4 x 2 PH (black) inside the Ring
• 3 x 2 PH (sliver) behind the Ring

Sides

• 3 x 2 hex (black) each side (left middle and right)
• Don't remove the bottom one, it is just asthetic

Back

• 3 x 2.5 hex (black) on the Front (left and right)

After you removed the Screws and grouped them where you removed them (I just use the grid form my iFitIt kit) carefully lift the top up and away and lay it somewhere soft to prevent scratches.

Unplug the fan on the Board and remove the tape holding the Cable down.

Remove the top two cap nuts with a 5mm wrench or pliers.

Now you can pull away the Rubber holder and pull the fan out of it.

Make a Photo how the wires are wired in the connector.

Do you have a JST Crimping Tool?

Yes:

Use the small 1mm flathead screwdriver to remove the cables from the JST Connector, by pushing into the connector and pulling the cable. (Should slide out without much force, easier with two people.

No:

Cut the cable at the fan and pull it out. (Be careful only to cut the fan wires)

Make sure the Specs (Voltage and Wattage) of both fans match.

10mm Noctua

Push the new fan into the Rubber Holder.

Reinstall the cap nuts and tighten them.

20mm Noctua

For the 20mm Noctua you have to remove the Rubber Grommet.

Cut away 2 corners on the Rubber holder to make room for the two exstruded corners of the Noctua fan.

Test fit the Rubber holder.

Put 4 Washer on each Bolt and optionally put some medium Threadlocker on the Bolt.

Put the Rubber holder back in without the fan and secure the lowest Point with a cap nut.

Push the Fan into the holder.

Secure the last two Cap nuts.

Add Crimps to the Noctua Adapter (should be inside the Box of the Fan)

Install the JST connector and make sure the polarity matches.

If you've cut the wire you can also use the small connectors (clear plastic) to connect the wiring. (Check the manual that came with the fan)

Plug the Fan into the adapter and the adapter into the Board.

(If you want, you can install the quiet fan adapter I built in another instructable in between and fix it to existing wires)

I added heat sinks to the MOSFETS on the Board just in Case and because I had some laying around.

The Size of the MOSFETS is 9x9mm

Losen the 3 Bolts of the Motor (1 Rotation is enough)

Tighten or Loosen the Black screw at the top and check the feeling of the Belt.

If you are fine with the tension, tighten the 3 screws again.

I am no expert, i just set it that the wheel felt not to tough to turn and the belt not too lose that it may slip.

Remeber: The Wheel Base has to fight you force, don't make the Belt too tight!!!

Before you put it back together, clampt it to a table and test if the fan is working.

If it is, continue. Else, check your wiring!

Put the Top Case back on top, make sure all screw tabs are inside, it should slide on without much force

Add all the Screws back. For Sizes check notes in the 1st step

Back

• 3 x 2.5 hex (black) on the Front (left and right)
• Tip: If the Wholes don't align push the Casing up a bit.

Sides

• 3 x 2 hex (black) each side (left middle and right)

Front

• 3 x 2 PH (sliver) behind the Ring
• Put the Ring back on (Notch to the bottom)
• 2 x 2 hex (black) on the Front (left and right)
• 4 x 2 PH (black) inside the Ring

After you screwed the Screws back in, plug all the cabled back in and test it.

It is quieter, but the motor fan still is audible. With the Stepdown Converter i built it is not recordable with my mic, so it is really quiet.

It is now much less annoying and with headphone it is not noticable as before.