How to Make a Three in One Table Saw Sled || Taper Cuts- Jointer Sled - Miter Cuts

This video shows you step by step on how to build a three in one table saw sled. With this sled you can make taper cuts for table legs, edge joint wide boards, and make 45 degree cuts for projects like making picture frames. This sled can be helpful to any skill level woodworker!

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• Full list of all the tools that I use

Tools Used during this build (affiliate):

• Micro jig Matchfit Dovetail Clamps
• Acrylic Runner For Table Saw Sleds
• Micro jig Grr-ripper
• Micro jig Pushblocks
• 48'' Universal T-Track with Hold Down Clamps
• Makita Track Saw
• Starbond CA Glue
• Delta Table Saw
• Prestige Series Dado Stack

Hey folks, Im Jesse with Penalty Box Woodshop and today I’m gonna make a new table saw sled. One that can not only do tapered cuts but also edge joint boards wider than my joiner and even do some picture frame miters when needed.

First, I cut a piece of 3/4” plywood to 24” X 18” with my track saw.

Then I set a dovetail bit on the router table and cut a dovetail grove at approximately 2” from the 18” wide edge. After making this cut I flipped the board over and made another grove the same distance from the opposite edge.

Then I moved the fence to 7” and cut groves from both of the same edges giving me a total of 4 dovetail groves running in the same direction. Finally, I set me fence at 5” And made two groves running the opposite direction. Again, I just flipped the sheet over and ran the second grove from the opposite edge.

If your asking yourself why dovetail groves? Well, it’s because I’m using these simple yet effective dovetail clamps for the sled. They slide into the dovetail groves and allow you to clamp whatever Your cutting securely to the sled. the six different groves on this sled should give me plenty of clamping positions and options.

Over at the table saw I cut a piece of 3/4” ply to 24” X 5” and then installed my dado stack to cut dados for the t-track. I marked a line at 1/2” from the edge and then used my t-track to mark the exact width. Then, I lined up my marks and cut the dado for the t-track in two passes.

I cut the t-track final length at the miter saw and then pre-drilled and screwed it in place.

Now that the sled is made it’s time to attach the runner. Using some CA glue and accelerator makes this a pretty simple task. I set my fence so that my sled would be slightly over the blade. That way after the runner is installed I can cut the sled to be perfectly square with the miter slot.

To make tapper cuts with this jig simply clamp the angle guid to the top of the sled at the desired angle for the taper. This set up makes it easy for repeatable cuts and the t track hold downs keep your fingers safely away from the blade.

I use it as a joining sled just remove the angle guide and use the dovetail clamps to clamp the wood in the desired position.

Also, if you use a large speed square to mark a 45 degree angle from edge then you can use this mark to make 45 degree cuts while holding your piece securely to the sled with the clamps.

If you want to see more details on this build you can check out the full build video here:

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