The Waterwheel Project V2.0

Introduction

The foundation for this project was laid by Stephan Baur more than 10 years ago, who started to experiment with various waterwheel designs and setups in Germany and Nepal. Johannes Eisner joined the project and built the first prototype in Nepal.

In early 2023, I (Michael Erhart) continued the project idea in the course of a project in India, starting by reinstating former facilities near Lake Tegernsee in Bavaria with a two-wheel setup for long-term testing and better accessibility. After a workshop in India showed the availability of much more modern tools (e.g. laser cutting) than in Nepal, the original design was optimized for easier assembly. We are also working on an online dimensioning tool (see Supplies) that can be used to make simple estimates for an optimal system.

Additionally, the work on the electrical side continued experimenting with different generator types, and methods of connections for both grid-connected and standalone setups were explored. This updated guide reflects these improvements, making the waterwheel more accessible and efficient for diverse applications.

To find out more about the motivation and previous work check out the earlier post from Stephan Baur:

The Waterwheel Project V1.0

Prerequisites and Disclaimer

Before constructing the modular waterwheel using this tutorial, it is essential to note that this guide is intended for individuals with prior experience in working with metal and who are familiar with workshop tools and procedures. The manufacturing process involves cutting, drilling, bending, and assembling metal components, which require a certain level of skill and knowledge to ensure safety and precision. We recommend following Method A) if you do not possess these skills.

Disclaimer:

The information provided in this tutorial is intended for educational and informational purposes only. The author does not assume any responsibility for any harm, injury, or damage that may arise during the construction, assembly, or operation of the modular waterwheel or its associated components. All activities should be carried out with the utmost care and attention to safety protocols.

Given the simplicity of the design and multiple hand-made processes, variations of the dimensions can and should be expected. Always measure and compare your parts to the virtual model and make the necessary adjustments.

Exploring Future Possibilities:

As the modular waterwheel concept continues to evolve, there is a possibility of introducing a comprehensive "commercial" version. This version could offer an all-inclusive package, allowing individuals to obtain essential components in a ready-to-assemble format. However, at this stage, the tutorial focuses on guiding skilled individuals through the process of creating the waterwheel from scratch using common workshop tools.

By proceeding with this tutorial, you acknowledge that you are responsible for your actions and safety while working on the project. If you are unsure about any aspect of the process or lack the necessary skills, it is advisable to seek assistance from experienced individuals or professionals. Your commitment to safety and responsible craftsmanship will contribute to the success of your waterwheel project and the realization of its benefits for renewable energy generation.

Dimensioning tool for easy estimation of an optimal system (work in progress): merhart.gitlab.io/thewaterwheelproject/

Gitlab repository: gitlab.com/merhart/thewaterwheelproject

Step 1.1: Select your method

Two construction methods have been developed for The Waterwheel Project. Choose your preferred method based on your budget and experience working with metal sheet.

Method A): Waterwheel parts are laser-cut by a third party and assembled > more expensive, but fewer skills are required

Method B): Waterwheel parts are cut and bent with hand tools > cheaper, but requires more skills

From this point on, every step will be described for both methods. Simply follow the corresponding instructions for your chosen construction method.

Note: Both methods will be described only for a waterwheel size of 12 modules, but the same principle can be applied to all waterwheel sizes. Adjust the number of materials and components following the output from the dimensioning tool if your wheel is bigger than 12 modules.

Step 1.2: Get the dimensions of your waterwheel

The waterwheel is designed so that multiple sizes can be built using the same module design (apart from one drilling hole). A dimensioning tool has been developed to help you choose the optimal system size and type based on only four inputs:

1. Available water fall height: between 1.3 and 2.3 m
2. Water flow rate (see "Manual Estimation Water Flow Rate Q" on how to measure water flow rate): between 0.02 and 0.1 m^3/s
3. Construction method: laser cut or hand cut
4. Metal sheet thickness: 0.5 or 0.75 mm

This tool will output the waterwheel dimensions, required tools and materials, and the design and drawing files for your optimal system size. Following this link (coming soon) to access the dimensioning tool.

Step 1.3: Download the required files

The required files (CAD design and drawings) for your optimal waterwheel size can be downloaded from Gitlab or the dimension tool to assist in constructing the waterwheel.

The files are necessary for the construction method A), but can be useful also for method B) to compare your parts to the virtual design. We recommend downloading the files irrespective of your chosen construction method.

The required files for the waterwheel construction are:

1. Bottom element (.stp)
2. Bottom element unfolded (.stp and .pdf) (only for Method A)
3. Paddle element (.stp)
4. Paddle element unfolded (.stp and .pdf) (only for Method A)
5. Wall element (.stp and .pdf)
6. Side plate (.stp and .pdf) (take into account the shaft diameter from the output of the dimensioning tool)
7. Waterwheel (.stp)

Note: For simplicity, only the waterwheel with 12 modules includes all the fasteners.

The required files for the coupling structure are:

1. Flange (.stp and .pdf)
2. Shaft (.stp and .pdf)
3. Key (.stp and .pdf) (if needed)
4. Waterwheel complete construction (.stp)

Note: For simplicity, only the waterwheel complete construction with 0.75mm metal sheet thickness has been made available.

Tip: Even though the CAD files have been created with the paid CAD software Inventor Professional 2024, you can open the .stp files with the free CAD software FreeCAD found here: www.freecad.org

Method A)

Step A-2.1: Send parts for laser-cutting and bending

After you have decided on the size and type of your system using the dimensioning tool, send the required parts for laser cutting and bending. You will need the following parts:

1. 12x Bottom element
2. 12x Paddle element
3. 24x Wall element
4. 2x Side plate

For other waterwheel dimensions: Check the output of the dimensioning tool and adjust the number of parts.

Method B)

Tools and materials:

1. Cutting tools (metal scissors or angle grinder, etc.)
2. Safety gear (gloves, safety goggles, earplugs)
3. Galvanized or stainless steel sheet: 0.5 - 0.75 mm thickness
4. Pen, scriber, and square
5. 2 pieces of 4 x 8 feet for 12 modules

Step B-2.0: Manufacture the side plates

We recommend that you manufacture the side plates provided in the CAD files since they can be used in step 8) to position and balance your waterwheel into the desired circular shape, thus saving a lot of time and effort. Use the technical drawings and cut the specified side plate shape with an angle grinder.

Take assistance from a metal workshop or order the component from a laser cutting company if you do not have the skills to do this by yourself.

Step B-2.1: Prepare the sheet

Place the metal sheet on a clean and safe working surface. Refer to the provided picture to visualize the size and form of the module components you're creating. Mark the metal sheet following the guideline (you will get 13 modules out of 2 4x8ft sheets. Ensure you have all the necessary tools and safety gear at hand.

Step B-2.2: Cut the module components

Using your cutting tool, carefully follow the dimensions marked on the metal sheet. These cuts will shape the module components that capture the force of the water to generate power. Precise cutting is essential to ensure proper water flow, optimal energy efficiency and easier assembly of the modules and waterwheel.

Method A)

Skip this step.

Method B)

Tools and materials:

1. Hammer
2. Center punch
3. Pen, scriber and square
4. Drilling machine with 3 mm & 9 mm drill bit

Step B-3.1: Create punch marks and drill 3mm holes

Using a center punch and a hammer, create punch marks at the key locations marked with an “X.” These punch marks indicate where holes will be drilled, and cuts will be made. The boxed dimensions in the provided pictures are the most important ones because these will define the size of the module, while the others are only flaps needed for riveting in later steps.

After punch marking at the “X”, drill holes with the 3 mm drill bit at the same location. This is a crucial step that reinforces the strength of your waterwheel module, preventing stress concentration and potential tearing when bending the metal sheet. The carefully placed holes contribute to the overall durability and reliability of your module, ensuring it stands up to the rigors of its intended purpose.

Bending the metal without holes at the corners could potentially lead to tearing, which reduces the lifespan of the module.

Step B-3.2: Drill 9mm holes

In this crucial step, you'll drill 9 mm holes at specific positions indicated by small circles and dimensions in the provided picture. These holes serve as an integral part of ensuring the structural integrity when assembling the waterwheel. Again, the more important measurements are boxed.

Method A)

Skip this step.

Method B)

Before proceeding with the bending process, it's essential to perform a fine-cutting step that ensures the sheets won't obstruct the bending and helps maintain the structural integrity of your waterwheel module. This step involves precise cuts at specific angles, indicated by dimensions in the drawing.

Tools and materials:

1. Cutting tools (metal scissors or angle grinder, etc.)
2. Prepared sheets
3. Protractor
4. Pen, scriber, and square
5. Sandpaper or deburring tool

Step B-4.1: Cut flaps

Mark all positions with a pen before starting to cut.

Begin the cutting process, making sure to align the cutting tool with the holes that were previously drilled 3 mm. It's crucial to cut precisely to these holes to avoid tearing or damage during the bending process.

Slowly and steadily guide the cutting tool along the marked lines, ensuring a smooth and accurate cut.

Once all cuts are made, inspect the edges to ensure they are clean and free from any rough or jagged areas. If needed, you can use a deburring tool or sandpaper to smooth out any sharp edges.

If you don't have a protractor for the 60-degree angle at hand, follow the DIY instructions for the 60-degree template provided in the manual for method B). This will make your life a lot easier by cutting the whole lot.

Method A)

Follow the same steps as Method B) only if the parts were not bent beforehand.

Method B)

Now that the fine-cutting step is completed, it's time to move on to the bending process. Proper bending is crucial for forming the metal sheets into the required shape for your water wheel module. Follow these instructions carefully to achieve accurate and effective results.

Tools and materials:

1. Bending machine (sheet metal brake)
2. Hammer
3. Protractor

Step B-5.1: Bending

Begin by positioning the metal sheet in the bending machine (sheet metal brake), ensuring it is aligned correctly and securely held in place. Depending on the type of bending machine used, you have to pay special attention to the order in which you bend the edges to ensure you can properly place the sheet in the machine for the remaining steps (I learned that the hard way ;) ). The order indicated by the numbers on the bending edges in the picture worked best for us.

Proper bending is essential for creating the correct shape for your waterwheel module. By following the indicated angles and the specified bending sequence, you'll ensure that the metal sheet takes on the necessary form without any hindrances or inaccuracies. With the bending step completed, your module is well on its way to becoming a sturdy and reliable component of your waterwheel system.

Equal for Methods A) and B)

Tools and materials:

1. Square and protractor
2. Deburring tool or sandpaper

With the manufacturing process complete, it's good practice to perform a thorough inspection to ensure that all parts match the specifications and appearance shown in the picture.

Examine the edges of all components. Ensure that they have been properly deburred. Use sandpaper or a file to gently smooth out any sharp or rough edges. Deburring is essential to prevent injuries when assembling the modules.

Correcting fine deviations at this stage will save you much time during the assembly process. All modules must be as uniform as possible to ensure that the final wheel will be balanced and symmetrical to maintain a smooth rotation.

Method A)

Now that the components have been laser-cut and bent, it's time to assemble them into a cohesive module. This step involves precise alignment and the use of blind rivets to create a robust structure.

Tools and materials:

1. Rivet plier
2. 4mm blind rivets
3. Rivet nut gun
4. M8 rivet nuts

Step A-7.1: Assemble bottom, paddle, and wall elements

Begin by arranging the bottom and paddle elements according to the picture provided. Pay close attention to the alignment of edges and rivet holes to ensure a perfect fit. Achieving accurate alignment at this stage is crucial for a well-constructed module and a smooth wheel assembly in the next step.

Rivet the two parts together. Insert the blind rivets into the holes, as shown in the picture.

During the riveting process, apply consistent pressure with the rivet plier to ensure that the blind rivets create a secure and gap-free connection between the parts. Gaps between the parts will lead to a leaky module and affect the efficiency of the waterwheel.

Continue with the two wall elements just like before, placing the blind rivets in the pre-drilled rivet holes.

Step A-7.2: Place rivet nuts on the bottom elements

Carefully place the M8 rivet nuts on the 11mm holes on both sides of the bottom element (see picture). Fix the rivet nuts with the rivet nut gun. Apply constant pressure on all rivet nuts for better balance and fixation.

The final waterwheel modules should now look like in the picture.

Method B)

Now that you have prepared the individual components, it's time to assemble them into a cohesive module. This step involves precise alignment and the use of screw clamps and blind rivets to create a robust structure. Follow these instructions carefully to successfully assemble your waterwheel module:

Tools and materials:

1. Drilling machine
2. 4mm drill bit
3. Rivet plier
4. 4 mm blind rivets
5. 2 x screw clamp (C-clamp)

Step B-7.1: Align and connect components

Begin by arranging the prepared bottom and paddle components according to the picture provided. Pay close attention to the alignment of edges to ensure a perfect fit. Achieving accurate alignment at this stage is crucial for a well-constructed module and a smooth wheel assembly in the next step.

Once the parts are aligned, use screw clamps to securely fix them in place. Position the clamps on opposite ends to hold the components tightly together.

Step B-7.2: Drill and insert rivets

Refer to the provided drawing to determine the approximate locations for the 4 rivet holes. Mark these locations on the components using a pen or a punch mark. Using a drilling machine, carefully bore the 4 holes at the marked locations. With the holes in place, it's time to rivet the two parts together. Insert the blind rivets into the holes, as shown in the picture.

During the riveting process, apply consistent pressure with the rivet plier to ensure that the blind rivets create a secure and gap-free connection between the parts. Gaps between the parts will lead to a leaky module and affect the efficiency of the waterwheel.

Continue with the two wall elements just like before, placing the holes as depicted in the drawing.

The final waterwheel modules should now look like in the picture.

Method A)

Now that you have successfully created the individual modules, it's time to assemble the final waterwheel by carefully connecting these modules. This assembly process requires precision and attention to detail to ensure a well-balanced and smoothly rotating wheel. Follow these steps for a successful assembly:

Tools and materials:

1. Prepared modules
2. M8 bolts (20 mm and 30mm length)
3. M8 nuts
4. M8 washers
5. 2 x 13 mm wrenches
6. 2x laser-cut side plate

Step A-8.1: Position the modules

Begin by sliding two of the prepared modules into one another, as shown in the picture. Pay close attention to ensure that the modules are aligned on the inner and outer holes and fit snugly together. You may need to apply some pressure to align these holes (for bigger wheel sizes) since the back flap of the bottom elements needs to be bent a bit. Remember to wear gloves!

Step A-8.2: Insert fasteners on outer holes

Once you have aligned the inner and outer holes of the two modules, it's time to insert the fasteners on the outer holes. Insert the M8 bolts (20mm length), along with M8 nuts and washers in between.

You may need to insert the M8 bolts (30mm length) on the inner module hole to keep its position fixed while you insert the rest of the modules.

Important: Do not fully tighten the bolts at this stage. Leave them slightly loose to allow for adjustments.

Step A-8.3: Repeat for all modules

Repeat steps A-8.1 and A-8.2 for all modules one by one. Pay attention to have enough space for the last 2 modules to fit into the wheel.

Step A-8.4: Align and fix the side plate

Once all the modules are connected with the outer module holes, carefully place the side plate on top of the circular module arrangement. Align the outer holes from the side plate with the inner holes from the modules.

If you inserted the M8 bolts (30mm length) in the inner module holes to fix their position, remember to remove them before placing the side plate on top of them.

Once the side plate is aligned with the module arrangement, insert the M8 bolts (30mm length) to fix the side plate to the wheel.

Important: Do not fully tighten the bolts at this stage. Leave them slightly loose to allow for adjustments.

Step A-8.5: Flip the waterwheel and repeat

Carefully flip the waterwheel and insert the M8 bolts (20mm length), along with M8 nuts and washers in between, on the outer module holes (the alignment should be easier this time).

Repeat step A-8.4.

Step A-8.6: Tighten all bolts

Check that all bolts are perfectly in place and the wheel is perfectly round and balanced. Once you are satisfied with the fine adjustment, proceed to tighten all the M8 bolts and nuts.

Tighten the bolts evenly and with consistent torque to maintain the balance achieved during the fine adjustment.

Method B)

Now that you have successfully created the individual modules, it's time to assemble the final waterwheel by carefully combining these modules. This assembly process requires precision and attention to detail to ensure a well-balanced and smoothly rotating wheel. Follow these steps for a successful assembly:

Tools and materials:

1. Prepared modules
2. Protractor, pen or punch mark
3. Drilling machine with 4, 9, and 11mm drill bit
4. Screw clamps (C-clamps)
5. M8 bolts (20 and 30mm length)
6. M8 nuts
7. M8 rivet nuts
8. M8 washers
9. 2 x 13 mm wrenches
10. Rivet nut gun

Step B-8.1: Position the modules

Begin by sliding the prepared modules into one another, as shown in the picture. As you continue inserting modules, you'll gradually form the circular shape of the wheel. Pay close attention to ensure that the modules are aligned and fit snugly together.

Step B-8.2: Insert fasteners

In the outer holes of the modules, insert M8 bolts (20mm length). Place M8 nuts on the opposite side and washers in between along with the bolts. Flip the wheel and insert the fasteners on the other side, too.

Important: Do not fully tighten the bolts and nuts at this stage. Leave them slightly loose to allow for adjustments.

Step B-8.3: Adjust for balance

With the modules in a rough position and the M8 bolts and nuts loosely in place, it's time for the fine adjustment process. This step is critical to achieve perfect balance and a smooth rotation. Arrange the modules such that the inner angle between adjacent modules is equal to 150 degrees (Calculation for other sizes: 180° - 360°/# modules = inner angle). The inner angle of each module, as indicated in the provided picture, plays a crucial role in positioning the modules. This step requires patience and precision to achieve a perfectly balanced and round wheel.

If you decide to use the provided side plate from the CAD design for this method, too, you can use it as a reference to balance your wheel and adjust it in a circular shape.

Fix the adjustment and angles with screw clamps.

Important: Do not tighten the outer bolts yet.

Step B-8.4: Mark the drilling positions

With the wheel assembled, balanced, and the outer screws tightened, it's time to proceed with drilling holes for the inner bolts.

Project the inner edges of the module that slides into the other on the outside surface. The objective is to create holes that align the two corresponding edges of adjacent modules, effectively fastening them together. This alignment contributes to the overall stability and integrity of the wheel.

Using a pen or a punch mark, mark the positions of the holes on both edges. Make these marks exactly 15 mm from each side of the created lines as shown in the picture.

Step B-8.5: Drill the holes with a 4 and 9mm drill bit

To ensure accurate drilling, use the 4mm drill bit from the previous step to create a pilot hole at the marked positions. This pilot hole will help guide the larger 9 mm drill bit and prevent any potential drifting during drilling.

Now, switch to the 9mm drill bit and carefully drill the holes at the marked positions. Make sure to maintain a steady hand and consistent pressure while drilling.

Step B-8.6: Repeat for all modules

Repeat the marking and drilling process for all 12 modules within the wheel. Each module should have corresponding holes that align with adjacent modules.

Consistency in hole placement and alignment is essential to maintain the balance and stability of the entire wheel and ease the assembly of the spokes to mount the wheel on the shaft in the following steps.

Step B-8.7: Remove C-Clamps and drill with 11 mm bit

Once the 9 mm holes have been drilled on one side of the wheel, remove the screw clamps. Move the modules one by one out of the balanced configuration and increase the borehole of the inner module with the 11 mm drill bit.

Step B-8.8: Insert rivet nuts

Immediately after increasing the hole diameter to 11mm, insert the rivet nut with the rivet nut gun on the inner module as shown in the picture. Apply constant pressure on all rivet nuts for better balance and fixation.

Step B-8.9: Realign modules and insert bolts

After the rivet nuts are all inserted, realign the modules into the balanced round arrangements. This time, you won’t need to measure the angle or use screw clamps since the 9 and 11mm boreholes will align perfectly. Once the modules are all aligned, insert the M8 bolts (30mm length) and washers.

Important: Don’t tighten the bolts just yet.

Step B-8.10: Flip and mark the drilling positions

Now that the wheel is perfectly round and one side has the fasteners loosely in place, carefully flip over the wheel and mark the drilling positions just like in Step B-8.4. Project the inner edges of the module that slides into the other on the outside surface. Remember to mark the drilling positions with a pen or punch mark exactly 15 mm from each side of the created lines as shown in the picture.

Step B-8.11: Drill the holes with 4 and 9mm bit

Follow the instructions of step B-8.5.

Step B-8.12: Remove inner bolts from opposite wheel size and drill with 11 mm bit

Once the 9 mm holes have been drilled on the second side of the wheel, remove the bolts from the inner bores of the first wheel side. Move the modules one by one out of the balanced configuration and increase the hole diameter of the inner module with the 11 mm drill bit.

Step B-8.13: Insert rivet nuts on the second wheel side

Immediately after increasing the hole diameter to 11mm, insert the rivet nut with the rivet nut gun on the inner module as shown in the picture. Apply constant pressure on all rivet nuts for better balance and fixation.

Step B-8.14: Realign modules and insert bolts

After the rivet nuts are all inserted on both sides, realign the modules into the balanced round arrangement. Again, you won’t need to measure the angle or use screw clamps since the 9 and 11mm boreholes will align perfectly. Once the modules are all aligned, insert the M8 bolts (30mm length) on both sides of the wheel.

Step B-8.15: Final tightening

Once you are satisfied with the fine adjustment and the wheel's balance, proceed to tighten all the M8 bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts evenly and with consistent torque to maintain the balance achieved during the fine adjustment.

Method A)

Now that you have successfully built the waterwheel and connected the side plates, it's time to mount the waterwheel to a shaft. Remember to use the parts and dimensions from the output of the dimensioning tool (see step 1.3). Follow these steps for a successful assembly:

Tools and materials:

• Waterwheel
• Flange (Hub)
• There are two types of readymade parts that were found in Nepal and India to be usable as hubs: belt drive pulleys (cast iron) and chain sprockets (forged steel).
• Belt drive pulleys have a good availability and lower price. However, the forged steel of the sprockets is a more solid and durable material than the rather brittle cast iron of the pulleys.
• If chain sprockets and belt pulleys do not serve the specific purpose or are not available at your location, manufacture custom-made hubs out of brass or mild steel following the provided CAD files.
• Shaft
• Important: use solid shafts and not hollow ones due to the high torsion acting on it
• Options in Nepal: 40mm readymade shaft out of C45 steel (includes holes for set screws) OR 60 and 80mm mild steel shaft (needs to be straightened with a hydraulic press, turned to 60 or 80mm on a lathe and fabricated with keyways and set screw holes)
• Follow the dimensioning tool to choose the right diameter and length for your system. If you choose the materials described, you will retain a minimum safety factor of S ≥ 3. The shaft length from the dimensioning tool is based on a virtually perfect system, we recommend to add 10 to 20cm to your shaft length to provide margin for error and to couple the generator.
• 2x UCP bearings
• M10 set screw (40mm length)
• M14 bolts (50mm length)
• M14 nuts
• M14 washers
• 16-17mm wrench
• 2x 22mm wrench

Step A-9.1: Connect flanges

Place the first flange on the inside of the waterwheel against the side plate and align the holes from both components. Insert the M14 bolts and nuts, placing washers in between and tighten them.

Place the second flange analogously on the other side plate. Take into account that the set screw or keyway position has to be parallel to the other flange (see picture provided)

Step A-9.2: Insert shaft

Insert the shaft into the waterwheel and align the holes or keyway from the shaft to the one from the flanges. Insert the M10 set screws and fasten them.

If you are using the provided CAD shaft design, be aware that one shaft model can be used for multiple wheel widths and therefore includes more drilling holes or keyways than you might need for your system. Pay attention to fix your waterwheel in the right position with respect to the shaft.

Step A-9.3: Connect bearings

Connect the UCP bearings on both sides to the shaft. Find the right position to fix the bearing taking into account the following two boundary conditions: first, you will need some shaft length outside of the waterwheel to connect your system to a generator; secondly, leave some space between bearing and waterwheel in case of wobbling or side movement of the wheel. You can use the CAD files as a guide for the position of the bearings.

Once you have found your desired position, fix the bearing to the shaft using the set screws and finally align the bottom plane of the bearings so that you can mount the system horizontally to the support structure described in the next step.

Your assembly should now look like in the picture provided.

Method B)

Now that you have successfully assembled the waterwheel, it's time to build the spokes wheel and mount the waterwheel to a shaft. If you used the side plate provided in the CAD files and have already connected it to your wheel, follow method A) Step 9. Otherwise, follow these steps for a successful assembly:

Tools and materials:

• 5mm flat steel
• M8 bolts (30mm length)
• M8 nuts
• M8 washers
• 2 x 13 mm wrenches

Step B-9.1:

Coming soon (new method to be developed similar to CAD side plate but with steel bars).

COMING SOON

Equal for Method A) and B)

Now that you have built a robust support structure, you need a concrete foundation to fix your system to the ground. Follow these instructions to pour a solid concrete foundation that will fix your waterwheel to the ground regardless of system size.

Tools and materials:

1. Wood board, stud, and saw
2. Nails, hammer, meter rule and level ruler
3. C20/C25 concrete: 300 kg of sand, 300 kg of small stones, and 100 kg of cement
4. Shovel and wheelbarrow
5. Rebars, wire, and angle grinder

Step 11.1: Measure the required dimensions

Measure the required dimensions for your concrete foundation based on the size of your support structure and the waterwheel. Add 5cm on each side to have some margin for error and robustness on the edges. A depth of 50 cm is solid enough to hold all the system and wheel sizes.

Step 11.2: Dig the hole

Using the dimensions from the previous step, dig a hole where your concrete will be poured. Add 10-20 cm of margin on each side of the hole, but be as precise as possible with the depth since it will affect the overall fall height of the water and the vertical position of the waterwheel with respect to the tailwater.

Make sure that the bottom of the hole is pressed together and will not shift or sink.

Step 11.3: Build a frame out of wooden panels

Build a frame out of wood panels so that the inner dimensions of the frame correspond to the ones from step 11.1. Place the frame into the hole and fix it by placing vertical studs outside of the frame to prevent any movement while pouring the concrete.

Important: Level the frame as precise as possible.

Step 11.4: Built rebar mesh

Cut and combine rebars to create a mesh the size of your frame.

Step 11.5: Pour concrete foundation

Dump the dry cement mixture into the wheelbarrow and add water slowly while constantly stirring. Stir the mixture thoroughly and mix in just enough water to make your concrete chunky. Don’t let the mixture get too liquid.

Pour half of the mixture into the frame and place the rebar mesh on top of it. After that, pour the other half of the cement into the frame. Even the surface out and let it dry for a couple of days.

While it’s drying, keep the concrete wet to avoid cracking if it’s hot outside. Soak it with a hose at least twice a day (three times if it is very hot outside). Cover the foundation if there is a forecast of rain since it can cause depressions in the concrete and make the foundation uneven.

Equal for Method A) and B)

Now that your foundation and support structure are finished, it is time to assemble all the parts together.

Tools and materials:

1. M10 anchor bolts (135 mm length)
2. M10 washers
3. Drilling machine with 10 mm concrete drill bit

Step 12.1: Connect the support structure to the foundation

Mark the position of your support structure into the foundation and drill holes with the 10 mm concrete drill bit. Align the support structure with the holes and insert the M10 anchor bolts (135 mm length) with washers in between. Tighten the anchor bolts once you have double-checked that the position of the support structure is perfect. Be aware of the dimensions of your system and position your support structure as precisely as possible!

Important: At the end, the waterwheel has to be perfectly in line with the water channel.

Step 12.2: Connect waterwheel assembly to support structure

Now that the support structure is fixed to your foundation, it is time to position the waterwheel assembly on top of it. Place the bearing on the provided place on the support structure and fix the system with bolts.

Equal for Method A) and B)

Before the waterwheel is assembled with the support structure and placed on the concrete foundation, a canal with an appropriate intake and chute is required to control the water flow onto the wheel. Follow these instructions to manufacture the intake so that you can shut down the water flow whenever necessary (eg. maintenance or emergency shutdown). A CAD model of an intake structure is provided at the bottom of this section to provide a visual guide for this step. Take into account that the model is designed for a channel of 30cm in width. Please adapt the size of the intake according to your needs.

Tools and materials:

1. Galvanized angle profile, galvanized steel sheet (1 mm and 5 mm thickness)
2. Angle grinder and manual arc welder
3. Metal scissors, meter rule, hammer, and shovel

Step 13.1: Manufacture the gate

Define the dimensions of your intake based on the width of the channel (from the dimensioning tool), the waterwheel height, and the soil surrounding the intake area.

Tip: The bottom of the intake has to be 2-4 cm above the highest point of the waterwheel (assuming a channel slope of 0°), and the intake height needs to be at least as high as the surrounding soil where the intake will be placed.

Cut and weld the angle profiles to create the intake frame (see the red frame marked on the first picture provided). Beware that there is a front and back side of the intake. Use the CAD model as guidance if needed. Cut six small rectangles out of the 5 mm steel sheet and weld them at the front side of the frame to create a sort of track for the sliding gate (see green circle on the first picture provided).

Cut and weld 10 cm wide rectangles of flat steel sheet to the sides and bottom of the frame. These flaps are required to fix the intake frame to the soil and prevent it from being flushed out. Use the CAD model as guidance if needed. Experience has shown that 10 cm is enough to hold the intake frame in place.

Add a connection frame (20-30cm height) for the channel on the bottom of the intake frame at the backside. Use a flat steel sheet and weld the parts to the frame. Add a horizontal rectangle of flat steel sheet between the vertical sides of the frame for reinforcement.

Step 13.2: Drive the intake into the soil

Dig a hole where the intake frame should be placed. Follow the dimensions of step 13.1.

Drive the intake frame into the soil, with the back side pointing to the waterwheel and the front side pointing to the water source. Leave a distance of 30-40 cm from the water source.

Tip: Beware of rocks in the soil. Crush and remove them if necessary.

Important: The intake area of the frame needs to match the channel width and be 2-4 cm above the highest point of the waterwheel. The 10 cm side and bottom flaps of the frame need to be completely fixed in the soil to ensure stability.

Step 13.3: Reinforce the intake area

Experience has shown that the intake area creates turbulence and vortices that damage and can even flush out the soil surrounding the intake frame. Therefore, a 1 mm flat steel sheet reinforcement is required.

Cut and bend two metal sheet parts, as shown in the third picture provided. The height of the reinforcement parts needs to be equal to the soil depth at the intake plus 5-10 cm that go into the soil for stability.

Drive the metal sheet parts into the soil with a hammer.

Important: Beware of rocks in the soil. Crush and remove them if necessary.

Tip: Add a small flap at the top of the reinforcements and bend it backward 180° to prevent injuries on sharp edges.

Lastly, the soil surrounding the intake frame and reinforcements must be compacted to keep it in place and stabilize it.

Step 13.4: Manufacture the sliding gate

Cut and bend a rectangle of metal sheet (1mm) which will function as a sliding gate in the intake frame. The width must match the width of the intake so that it can perfectly slide up and down and prevent the water from flowing into the channel. The height must be equal (or larger) than the intake frame.

Tip: Add a small flap at the top of the gate and bend it backward 180° to prevent injuries on sharp edges.

The final result of the intake with reinforcements and sliding gate should look similar to the last picture provided in this section.

Equal for Method A) and B)

Tools and materials:

1. Galvanized angle profile (5 mm), galvanized steel sheet (0.5 mm)
2. Angle grinder, manual arc welder, bending machine, and metal scissors
3. Meter rule, level ruler, and shovel

Step 14.1: Dig the canal ditch

Dig the canal ditch from the intake frame to the waterwheel. The depth needs to reach the bottom of the connection frame from the intake (remember step 13.1). At the same time, this depth is 2-4 cm above the highest point of the waterwheel.

Important: Keep the sliding gate of the intake closed so that water does not run through the canal before it is finished.

Step 14.2: Attach horizontal beams

Cut two long beams out of the angle profile. The length must reach from the connection frame of the intake to the vertical support beams of the support structure (+30 cm for the overflow segment).

Fix the horizontal beams to the intake frame at the connection frame (20-30 cm above the frame bottom) and to the vertical support beams from the support structure (see second picture provided). You can either weld the parts together or drill holes and use screws and nuts.

Important: The horizontal canal beams must be leveled since they will define the slope of the canal (ideally 0°).

Step 14.3: Manufacture canal segments

Now it is time to manufacture the canal segments. Cut and bend steel sheet segments into a U-shape with side flaps at the top edges (see picture provided). Make multiple segments depending on the length of your canal.

Tip: Use the fewest segments possible to make the assembly easier and more level.

Important: Since the segments need to overlap, their width and height upstream need to be around 4 mm bigger than downstream.

Important: Adjust the length of the last segment to leave enough space for the slideable chute segment (see next step).

Lastly, the canal segments are placed on the horizontal beams, starting with the downstream segment, and overlap them continuously up to the intake.

Equal for Method A) and B)

Tools and materials:

1. Galvanized steel sheet (0.5 mm)
2. Bending machine and metal scissors
3. Meter rule

Step 15.1: Manufacture the chute segment

Cut and bend another segment out of the steel sheet into a U-shape with side flaps at the top edges. Follow the same principle for the height and width of the chute as for the canal segments.

Important: Adjust the length of this segment so that it can slide from 20 cm upstream to 10 cm downstream of the waterwheel center, effectively creating a slideable and adjustable chute.

Place the segment on the horizontal beams, overlapped by the last canal segment.

Step 15.2: Manufacture the overflow segment

Cut and bend one last segment following the same principle as for the canal segments.

Important: Since this segment needs to be overlapped by the chute segment (in shutdown mode), its width and height upstream need to be around 2-3 mm bigger than downstream.

Place the segment on the horizontal beams at around 10 cm downstream of the waterwheel center.

Tip: Since this segment won’t slide, it can be fixed to the horizontal beams.

Ongoing Development and Future Steps

While the steps described so far have guided you through the foundational aspects of creating the modular water wheel, it's important to acknowledge that some stages of the process are still undergoing refinement and development. The pictures should give you a glimpse of what the prototype already built looks like.

Here's an overview of the forthcoming phases:

1. Instructions for manufacturing the spokes/side plate by hand:

Two methods have been developed to manufacture the spokes and mount them to the waterwheel: Method A) Laser-cut and Method B) Self-made frame with steel bars

A) Laser-cut spokes wheel: Every wheel size has its respective side plate designed as a spokes wheel, similar to the one from a bicycle. The instructions and files for laser-cutting were provided previously.

B) Self-made frame: In case a laser cutting technique is not possible, a hand-made spokes/side plate is required to connect the waterwheel to the shaft. The instructions and CAD model to manufacture such a frame out of flat steel sheets for all waterwheel sizes will be made available soon.

2. Support structure

The support structure that you can see in the provided pictures was tailor-made for the 12-module waterwheel. Instructions on manufacturing this structure for all waterwheel sizes will be created in the future.

3. Electrical connection

The mechanical design of the waterwheel is explained above, and in the future, instructions on how to optimally connect your waterwheel to a generator and/or battery will be created.