The Old Fashioned Machine

{This instructable was created in fulfillment of the project requirement of the MAKEcourse at the University of South Florida (www.makecourse.com).}

The Old Fashioned Machine is an automated bartender that specializes in making an Old Fashioned. This is achieved by 3 Peristaltic Pumps, an 8-channel relay module, and an IR Infrared Sensor Module. There is a lot of growth to be had with this project, but due to the time issues, they were not achieved in this first iteration. However, the machine works and pours your drink in 5.7 seconds!

(Legal Drinking Age in the United States is 21+)

Tools:

• 3D Printer
• ShopBot CNC Machine (w/ VCarve Software)
• Miter Saw
• Power Drill (w/ accessories)
• Screwdriver
• Wirestripper

Parts:

• (1) Arduino Nano
• (1) USB Data Sync Cable
• (1) Power Strip with USB Charging Ports and Outlets (15W/3.1A)
• (1) AC/DC Power Adapter 12V 5A 60W
• (1) Infrared Sensor Module
• (1) Tower Servo SG90
• (3) 12V DC Peristaltic Liquid Dosing Pump (170~460mL/min)
• (3) Air Tight storage jars with Cork Lid (450mL)
• (1) 10ft 1/4" ID Food-Grade Silicon Tubing
• (5) 1/16"x 8" x 12" Basswood Sheets
• (1) 60W Soldering Kit
• (1) Box of Multi-colored gauge wire
• (1) Bag of .75" 20mm Zip Tie Mounts
• (1) Bag of Zip ties
• (1) Bag of Rubber Bands
• (1) 3mm flat leather cord
• (4) PP Barb Y Tee 1/4" Hose Fitting
• (1) 11 oz. Lowball Glass
• (1) Bottle of Peychaud's Aromatic Bitters
• (1) Bottle of Rose's Simple Syrup
• (1) Bottle of Bourbon of your choosing
• (1) Bottle of Wood Glue
• (1) Can of Dark Walnut Polystain
• (1) 8' x 11' 3/8" x 3/4" Piece of Common Board
• (1) 5' x 7' 3/8" x 3/4" Piece of Oak Wood
• (a lot) Wires (Female to Female and Female to Male)

Additional Notes:

The first step is to acquire the wood planks from your local Home Depot or Lowes to cut out your desired pieces of wood and prepping the files for the CNC machine to router. You will need to have 5 pieces of total of the following dimensions:

• "Front Sign"
  • Wood: Oak
  • Quantity: 1
  • Un-Engraved Board Size: 16" x 11.375"
    • Cut Door Opening: 5" tall by 6" wide [CENTERED]
• "Side Panels"
  • Wood: Common Board
  • Quantity: 2
  • Size: 16" x 11.375"
• "Front"
  • Wood: Common Board
  • Quantity: 1
  • Size: 11.375" x 10.625"
• "Back"
  • Wood: Common Board
  • Quantity: 1
  • Size: 16" x 11.375"
    • Cut Back Door: 9.5" tall by 8.375" wide [CENTERED]

Once you have all of the pieces cut out, you will only need to engrave the "Front Sign" and the "Side Panels". Depending on the CNC machine that you have access to, the accompanying design software may also vary. If this is your first time, please take the time to familiarize yourself with the software/machine by either tutorials or the embedded step-by-steps. If you are using VCarve, please follow the directions:

• Upload the appropriate JPEG for what you are trying to engrave. Create vectors from the picture so that it distinguishes the black and white to create lines. Save.
  • "Front Sign"
    • 60 Degree V-Bit Quick Engrave the inside
    • 1/4" Up-Cut Pocket "THE SALOON"
    • 1/4" Up-Cut Profile Cut the outside
  • "Side Panels"
    • 60 Degree V-Bit Quick Engrave everything

*Please note, you can use any design that you want. Just make sure that it is the right size and that it is only black and white (it makes it easier to make the vectors in the program).

The majority of the 3D printed parts in this project are used to house electronic components, secure various parts, and to serve aesthetic purposes. Depending on what components you use, these STL files may not be correct. However, you can always create your own parts. Just make sure that you are using a .5mm tolerance to make sure that all the parts have a snug fit.

Once all of the wood pieces are cut out and engraved. Begin assembling the housing with 1/2" screws. Make sure that the front sign is the last thing you attach to make sure that it is flesh and straight.

For the back door, be sure to sand down the edges and then line it up properly so that you can have the ideal swinging motion. From there, screw the hinge on and make sure that it isn't getting caught on anything.

Once the wooden housing is where you want it to be. Begin securing all of your 3D Printed parts:

• The cage will go flesh with the opening in the front.
• The 3 mason jar holders will be in the back where the back door will be.
• The 4 lid pegs will go in all 4 of the corners of the box, roughly 1/2" down from the top lip.
• The relay/battery stand will be in the left part of the box near the cage (from top down view, the left side of the box).
• The Pump Shelf is a separate step due to importance, but it will be on the right side.
• The Arduino housing should be dead in the center, so it is in the middle of everything.

The pump shelf is very important because it houses all 3 of the pumps that are surprisingly heavy. So when securing the shelf, be sure to use the correct screws and predrill before doing so to prevent stripping. If it still wobbly, you can use hot glue to secure certain points. But the main attachment method should be the screws. Also, don't forget to level and mark where you want the shelf to be to make sure that it is not too high to be above the lid pegs or too low to interrupt the liquids.

*A design consideration would have been to make the "shelf" more representative of one with more supports to prevent it leaning forward and needing some "last minute adjustments".

The AC/DC Power Supply is where the relays will get their voltage from to power the peristaltic pumps. Therefore, what you need to do is take the bulb end of the power supply and cut it. Then, separate the black and red wire. Strip them both with wire strippers. Then take some copper wire and cut 3 pieces. Make sure to size it to the appropriate length where it can reach the relay module. Wire strip both ends. Then connect one end of the 3 wires to the red wire on the power supply. Twist as much as possible and then top it with a wire cap.

Next, for the other end of the 3 red wires, look at your relay module and put it in the middle of the "gate" by using a miniature screwdriver in the soldering kit. At the end, you should have 3 red wires coming out of the relay.

For the relay itself, attach some female-male connectors to "Vcc, GND, K1, K2, K3".

For the pumps, you will need 6 pieces of the copper wire. 3 Red and 3 Black. Measure and strip them to size from the relay to the pumps. Go to the back of the peristaltic pump and you will see a "+" and "-" lead. You will need to strip both ends and then solder one end of each color to each pump. Then, run it through the pump shelf and then connect it to the far left "closed" slot on the module.

Repeat the same procedure for the black wires as this will be the ground and connect them the same way you did for the red wires with the wire nut, except do it with the ground wire from the power supply.

The next important step is to insert the tubing correctly. First, make sure you have all the necessary components such as the Y-tubes, Air-Lock, and the 1/4" food grade tubing. In the peristaltic pump packaging (if you buy the exact one), it came with alternative airlocking device. This is helpful to connect the already pre-existing pump on the pump to a new piece of 1/4" tubing to extend.

From the dispensing end, be sure to add a "Y" piece and the airlock to the top of it. From the mason jar end, be sure to put the extra airlock device in between and tie with zip-ties to make sure that it is snug.

For the case itself, you will need to line up each of the buttons and take a 1/8" drill bit to make the holes for the prongs to come out.

If you look at the button, there are 4 prongs (2 on each side). Due to polarity, only choose 1 side of 2. When you have decided which one to use, fold the other 2 in on itself to secure the button even more. Then, for the top prong, solder a red copper wire piece to it. And then run a black female connector on the second prong. Do this for the remainder of the buttons.

After you have a total of 6 wires on the buttons. Take the red wires and put them underneath the "RED" wirenut. Then for the black wires, connect that to the "BLACK" wirenut.

Remember, these pins may be different based upon if you use my code or if you alter anything. So be sure to pay attention to what you are hooking up. But essentially, you will have a slue of wires coming from the relay module, the servo motor and the IR sensor.

Try to be conscientious on cable management as you go. Maybe even wiring before you put it inside the housing. That is something I failed to do and my setup is atrocious. Remedied with some zip-ties, but could be way better with proper planning/execution.

The code is very cut and dry, but please make sure that you change the pins if you used different ones. And also to not be confused by the fact that HIGHs and LOWs are flipped due to a manufacturing difference.

The dynamic changes that can be done to this code is the time that the peristaltic pumps are given power.

This is the final step! Make sure that all of the pumps are working and dispensing the correct amount of liquid each time. Again, this can be altered in the actual code.

Remember to test the prime buttons as well and that each button corresponds to the correct pump.

Practice makes perfect and consistency is what will make this project the rave of all your friends.

Thank you so much for interest in this instructable, and if you have any questions, comments, or concerns. Please drop it down in the comments below! :) Happy Making!