The Garbage Gardener

by HYPEphillips in Outside > Backyard

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The Garbage Gardener

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Simple, self contained, gardening in a bin!
This is for all those who have no space to do their gardening projects or need a work station in their green zone.

Supplies

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  • A plastic full size bin.
  • Plywood- 9mm or wider
  • Potential other useable materials - polycarb, sheet plastic, hardboard

If to be mobile:

Wheels (depends what you can get)

Base/platform/handle (ply or pallet wood)

(note: This section is not that detailed as the materials you have access to maybe completely different)

Tools - use what you have! I had a drill, sander, table saw and clamps.

Why?

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I'll credit my wife for this, as I first saw her working using this method. She was dealing with a hanging basket, ready to plant it up. We had a black plastic bin (garbage, trash can) and she used the domed lid upside down to hold the basket. Simple but works. It got me thinking...

The green-fingered people who have very small spaces could probably do with a self contained unit that is not only a work surface but has storage as well. For example if you have a balcony space but love your plants then a bin would not take up too much space but store a small bag of compost, your tools and be a work zone that can be lidded to keep the elements out. Another example are gardeners that want to keep all their tools in one mobile space but can only store it outside.

The idea is that the bin can store any of the following:

  • Compost
  • Tools
  • Pots
  • Baskets

The lid is still a lid to secure the contents from the elements at least, but turn it upside down and you create a bowl to have compost in while potting up plants or hanging baskets.

Secondly a work surface could be placed on top if required.

Design - Simple or Complicated?

As a bin with a lid it will do what I have said above.

Simple.

But it could be more...

  • A shelf could be suspended inside
  • Hooks could be placed inside or to the exterior for tools or equipment
  • Sew up fabric pockets that could be suspended inside
  • The lid could be hung on the exterior when not in use
  • Chicken wire or mesh could act as a soil sieve
  • A wheeled base could be used to increase mobility - would a drag handle be required?
  • Paint it
  • Divide the interior

Limitations:

  • It can't store long handled tools - unless telescopic
  • You can't screw fit directly into the bin plastic - it will not hold any weight (its too thin)
  • Any glues being used may not work well if the bin sides flex too much

Design Ideas

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There is a lot of potential to what can be done with this container. Although some of the ideas moved forward into 'prototypes' - some were more successful than others.

With the actual bin the easiest solution is to divide the contents. By doing this you have access to different things without moving other items or having to empty the whole container out. Although I considered 3 or 4 way division the easiest was 1 central divider. This allowed larger items to be stored.

From there other ideas formed as to how this could be best utilised. Item trays, boxes and storage but still all being kept within the main container.

If its to be mobile then how big should the cart/trolley be? Could wheels and a handle become part of the bin? On that point we already have council supplied 'green waste' bins with wheels and a pull handle but they are too deep so become impractical.

The ideas are there but it comes down to what materials and bits'n'bobs I have to do the task so the design gets modified as its built.

Bits in the Bin

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The initial step is measure the bin. Now the standard tape measure is fine, but you can also use 'pinch sticks' (see my other Instructable). This helps to get sizes internally and transfer to your workpiece.

So H720, base ext 364 dia, top ext 500. Internals are 360 base and 443 top.

So I wanted one internal divider and used scrap polycarb (16mm) with a tapered cut to fit the bin. This top edge was taped later on.

The 'disc' worktop was also done in polycarb to fit the bin lid so the it would turn a curve surface into a flat one. This also fits into the bin top.

A 'wedge' flat work surface/ tray was also made of 18mm ply. Primarily I wanted this to fit further down in the bin on top of the divider to hold small tools instead of them being at the bottom of the bin. This later turned into something more.

This was cut out of scrap ply in a wedge form with dia.427mm ends and this then became a snug fit on the inside of the bin with the divider preventing it dropping further.

Edge strips were then stuck to the sides but only projecting one side. These do not run the full length of the wedge sides for reasons explained later.

Lets See Whats Inside...

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So this is the basic set up (follow the photos):

  • Bin complete
  • Bin lid reversed for hanging basket work
  • lid removed with disc worktop
  • lid replaced (reversed) with disc worktop in place
  • bent wire hook placed over bin rim
  • lid hung from wire hook
  • wedge tray view
  • tray removed to view divider contents
  • tray showing bolt holes to allow rim edge placement
  • rim placement
  • tray placed in reversed lid

Appraisal:

Although all the above works admittedly I prefer the wedge tray with the side strips than the disc work top. It fits better and works better. Also when there is soil all over the tray because of the 'wedge' style allows funnelling of this back into the compost bag. Placing the tray on the rim is ok but too much weight and it could be a problem. It works better placed in the lid which acts as temporary soil storage.

This Bits 'wheely' Good!

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So if you want your workspace mobile keep reading.... otherwise jump forward.

I had some scrap 18mm ply that I pulled out of a skip so I thought to use this (but alternatives would do).

I needed to create a 'box for the bin to sit in and for the wheels and handle system to attach. So knowing the bin dimensions I created a rectangle 120hx536x436. Now you can join this together in any method you prefer so I won't go into details but the aim is to produce a box with a base of some sort.

Mine was mitre joined with glue and side strips plus a section over the wheel axle. I used my 'pinch sticks' to size the gap and then cut wood to the exact length and glue/screwed that in.

The wheels part is tricky - you could buy large castor wheels, make wooden ones or in my case use ones off an old push chair. These were quick release style but I needed an exterior axle tube - so scrap tube was found.

I drilled holes in the side of the box to accommodate this tube then secured the tube to the framework. You can get a variety of plastic clips but I used some steel strapping.

So the box ended up with the wheels (280mm dia) positioned so they were flush with the rear of the box. The idea was to have the handle sitting behind this.

Feet...with No Shoes

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With wheels on the back I need something to support the front....feet.

Scrap ply was used, stuck together, cut square, ends drilled - 7mm hole to accommodate 8mm threaded bar.

The best way to get the bar in is use 2 nuts - one tightened against another and then use a spanner to screw this in - basically using the thread of the bar to cut into the hole. Remove it - add glue and do it again. They wont come out.

The 'T'nuts I wanted countersunk slightly - so always cut the rebate hole first - in this case 25mm. Then drill the 9mm hole to allow the 'T' nut shaft to fit. Press this in using a G clamp or F clamp.

Basically the feet then screw into the bottom of the box front to keep it level but can be removed when not in use.

Can You Handle This?

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The idea of the handle is ,,,,to be a pull handle for one thing but also act as a support for long handled tools and also attach other items to it like work surface trays or storage pots.

Also I wanted it to fold down to be able to store it away in the winter months.

18x80x1000mm ply was used for the main uprights

18x86x476mm ply was used for the top handle

18x44x476mm ply was for the rest of the slats

The top piece was cut and drilled and given a rounded over style. A slat would be placed below this leaving a gap of 18mm - for the purpose of being able to slot in a tray or hook. This was when I noticed how many flaws were in the ply (it was scrap and free, so no complaints!) so I felt like these needed filling. Car filler was used and does the trick nicely.

I was trying not to use any screws - for one if they are not stainless steel they tend to corrode in British weather, secondly I find glue and dowel works well and if you mess up then cut it off.

More slats were placed further down with 18mm gaps so that options were available for varying heights.

The bottom slat was to act as a stop for when the handle was upright so it couldn't pivot further back as well as when the handle was in its folded position it didn't drop down below the box front.

Stop.....pins

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I needed a way to secure the handle in the upright position. The main pivot bolts were 8mm, the bottom slat prevented over extending off the back so it seemed practical to use a pin bolt. This was made from 6mm round steel rod. I cut it long enough to go through the box side and the upright and a washer and added a bit - so approx.44mm. A 3mm hole was drilled though 1 end and flattened off a bit with a file. This was so string or a wire ring could be placed through. You can buy these things ... but why buy when you can make!

I needed to make these a bit more weather proof so I 'blued' them (apologies if this is wrong but I remembered doing this at school to aid against rusting). Basically heat them up until glowing a dull red, put them in oil to cool, fish them out (magnet on a spanner works) and you find they've gone blue/black. Even if it doesn't work they look good!

Its an Open & Shut Case

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This is the fully assembled mobile unit/ trolley/ cart - whatever you want to call it. The photos all have various notes to aid understanding. There is no finish applied yet as this is undecided (...basically what colour my wife would prefer!)

All Together Now...

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Please look through the pictures as they all have notes added. There could be a lot of options on how this could be utilised and it would be a case of what suits your own personal needs.

To Conclude...

When I first started this I spoke to a few neighbours who were either to either a balcony garden or just a very small green space, enquiring with them how do they deal with the issue of storage. It seemed they just rolled up the top of the compost bag and stuck it in a corner not wanting to go back to it due to slugs and being damp. Tools were just bagged up and left outside or had to be stored inside. Exterior storage boxes didn't seem to fit with their scenario's either. Work surfaces ended up being the same table they would use for eating outside or having a cuppa.

So it seems a viable design to make a self contained unit that can be packed away and left outside.

On the whole it actually works quite well as separate units and combined. My wife has already 'acquired' it, pottering around our garden so its getting used (before I could get it painted!).

Design Notes:

I'm pretty critical of the work I produce. Having done this I aim to change a few things, so wish to pass this on to others.

  • The centre of gravity is off! The wheels are to be moved back to improve stability. If no bin is in the box it will tip over due to the tools. Therefore the handle assembly will move forward by about 80mm. This also means long handled tools can be placed on the front and the rear of the handle assembly.
  • The wedge tray works well and does 'wedge into the bin. But feel it would work better if a 'saddle' bracket was used to better support the tray. As it sits over the central divider, and is the same width as the ply it could also be transferred over to the handle assembly to sit across a slat.
  • Hooks are ok, but small storage pots are quick to place your tools in, as opposed to hanging them. This could be incorporated better into the saddle bracket as well (a design to explore further)
  • I would have loved it if when the mobile unit was folded down, the wheels would have stored flat in the box. But I don't really want the box too long or too wide. Something to bear in mind.
  • In hindsight I would make the rear slats wider to around 60 or 80mm with the gap between around 50-60mm. This means you don't rely on the tray of 18mm fitting perfectly in the gap. By changing this you need to resort to a hang over or saddle style system for your storage or work surface. This also allows for expansion of wood due to moisture and you don't need to be so exact on tolerances. Due to how the rear slats have been fitted I can cut them off and re position them.
  • Weather proofing in Britain is always an issue. I'm pretty sure the scrap ply I used was exterior use.... but it will need finishing at some point. Probably a gloss paint.

Thank you for reading.