Table Shuffleboard

So you want a shuffleboard for your game room, but you can't imagine paying $800-$1500 for the table itself? Well, either could we, so we desigened this regulation size shuffleboard for only $40! Just add the game pieces and shuffleboard wax and you're in business, ready to play tournaments with friends and family!

Somehow new project ideas are always creeping up in our house. When a "wood & metal project" was due for school, we decided to turn it into a much desired gameroom piece - Table Shuffleboard. We scoured our home, scrap pile and junk pile to find several pieces to make this table happen so that it was functional and fit into the decor of our gameroom.

TABLE FRAME

(4) table legs approx 32" tall - used scrap logs from log home

9' x 28 1/4" Table Floor - used scrap armoire sides

(8) Metal Brackets - used scrap brackets from armoire

(6) 2x4 - cut in 25 1/4" lengths -used scrap pieces from scrap pile

(2) 2x4 - cut in 9' length

(2) 1x8x10 tongue and groove ship-lap

(2) 1x8x3 tongue and groove ship-lap

TABLE PLAYING SURFACE

(4) 2 x 4 - cut into 8' lengths

(2) 2 x 2 - cut into 8' lengths

(5) Floating Brackets - cut in 19" lengths - used scrap pieces from the frame of an old screen door

MISC

(2) Minwax Polyshades - used leftover Olde Maple Gloss & Bombay Mahogany Satin

2" exterior screws - used leftover screws from various projects

1 1/4" finishing nails

1/2 gallon StoneCoat Epoxy - used leftover from counter top project

TOOLS

Circular Saw

Electric Drill

Grinder

Tape Measurer

Carpenter Square

Speed Square

Pencil

Hammer

Paint Brush

Painters Tape

Hacksaw

Wood Clamps

DISASSEMBLE WARDROBE FOR TABLE FLOOR - cutting & piecing together to measure 9' x 28 1/4"

CUT SCRAP 2x4's FOR FRAME - (6) 2x4 at 25 1/4", (2) 2x4 at 9'

CUT TG SHIP-LAP FOR FRAME - (2) 1x8 at 9' 1 1/2" MITRE CUT, (2) 1x8 at 29 3/4" MITRE CUT

CUT 2x4's for PLAYING SURFACE- (4) 2x4 at 8'

CUT 2x2 for PLAYING SURFACE- (2) 2x2 at 8'

CUT METAL FLOATING BRACKETS for PLAYING SURFACE - (5) at 19" each (in our case we used the metal frame of an old screen door and cut with hacksaw then smoothed the edges after cutting with a grinder)

CUT TABLE LEGS to 32" (in our case we already had 32" long log legs)

Frame in the table with (2) 25 1/4 " 2x4's and (2) 9' 2x4's by screwing with electric screwdriver.

Screw in remaining (4) 25 1/4" 2x4's approximately every 2' to support the frame.

Screw in metal brackets (2 for each leg) in four corners (you may choose to inset as we did, shown in picture) and attach legs.

Using finishing nails, nail TG shiplap to outside of frame.

Screw floor (armoire pieces) into 2x4's inside the frame.

ASSEMBLE SURFACE

Gather (4) 2x4s at 8' and (2) 2x2s at 8'.

Line up 2x4s with 2x2s on either side and clamp playing surface together.

Predrill screen door floating brackets (originally was one long metal piece).

Evenly space 5 floating brackets and drill into back of playing surface moving clamps as you go.

PREPARE REGULATION LINES

Using a carpenter square measure and mark playing lines - we used these guidelines: legacy billiards

Using a woodburner, burn lines onto playing surface (feel free to personalize it as we did, shown in picture above).

We did choose to stain the pieces at different times during the building process. This choice is yours.

We used a polyshade in order to provide color and finish.

Legs and outside trim: stained with mahogany polyshade.

Playing surface: Using painters tape section off scoring lines. Vary stain color in order to see zones.

Complete epoxy surface after waiting proper amount of time for stain to dry.

Using painters tape, tape edges so that the tape lifts slightly above table (see picture).

Fill seems with two coats of prepared epoxy.

Apply floodcoat of epoxy to finish surface.

Follow manufacturer directions and wait proper amount of time in between coats.