Surfboard Epoxy Table Using Reclaimed Wood

In this instructable, I show you how to build a surfboard epoxy table using a piece of reclaimed wood laying around my workshop. Even if you don't need this type of table, the woodworking and epoxy tips/techniques can be applied to other projects.

Keep in mind, this surfboard table can also be used as wall art.

There are several things which are difficult to fully explain with words and images, so be sure to check out the video tutorial below!

Epoxy Resin

Resin Pigments (Sky Blue Pearl, Sapphire Pearl, Pearl White)

Epoxy Glow Powder (Fluorescent Blue)

Translucent Blue Dye

Epoxy Mixing Containers

Stir Sticks

Nitrile Gloves

Silicone Caulk

Packing Tape

General Finishes Satin Oil & Urethane Top Coat

Furniture Wax

1/8" piece of Melamine

F Clamps

Brad Nailer

Rubber Mallet

Black Light

Kraft Paper

Jig Saw

Trim Router

1/8" roundover bit

Straight Router Bit

Chisels

Sandpaper (80, 120, 180, 220 grits)

Blue LED Lights

Rechargeable Battery Pack

22 AWG Adapter Plugs

Solder Kit

Helping Hands

Hot Glue Gun

Hairpin Legs

Let's face it - wood is expensive nowadays. So, I like to build things from reclaimed or scrap wood to save money and add character to whatever I am building.

This piece of cypress wood was in the scrap wood pile at my local hardwood dealer. The wood sort of looked similar to a pair of pants. It was located at the top of the trunk just before the tree split into 2 main branches.

Regardless, I liked it and knew I could make something unique with it.

I prepared the resin mold by using a piece of 1/8″ melamine. Normally, I would use 3/4" melamine but I had 1/8" laying around my shop so I used it instead of buying a new piece.

First, I used my air compressor to remove loose debris.

Next, I applied furniture wax to the bottom of the table before laying the cypress wood on top. This helps release the melamine from the epoxy after it cures. You can also use packing tape on top of the melamine if you want to reuse the melamine in the future.

Then, I used my brad nailer with 1.5″ brad nails to secure scrap 1x2s to the back and 2 sides of the wood. This forms the box.

I clamped a scrap piece of 2×4 on top of the table to hold it down while I sealed around the perimeter to prevent epoxy from leaking.

I wanted the void in the middle of the table to be translucent blue and the side of the table to be opaque blue.

Essentially, the translucent blue resin part of the resin and wood wall art would be shallow water and the opaque blue would represent deeper water.

I mixed 1 large batch of epoxy resin and split them equally in 2 different containers.

Next, I put one drop of transparent blue dye in one container. In the other container, I added a splash of sky blue pearl pigment powder and a splash blue glow powder. I mixed both thoroughly with a stir stick.

Basically, I added more or less dye and pigment powder until the color looked good to me.

I poured the transparent blue resin within the void. Once the transparent blue resin reached the end of wood and resin surfboard, I poured the opaque blue.

NOTE: If you notice the epoxy color is too light when you start pouring, I recommend to only fill up the void halfway. More info about this in the next step.

Next, I covered the section on side of the wood and resin art with the opaque blue resin. 

The depth of the resin pour ended up being about 3/8″. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendation on the depth of the pour. Some epoxy may require multiple pours.

I used a heat gun to remove bubbles and blend the translucent and opaque blue colors at the meeting point.

I mixed a small amount of epoxy and white pearl pigment powder. I poured this on side of the piece to represent ocean wave foam. I thought it would add a cool effect to the piece.

After the epoxy cured overnight, I needed to darken the color a bit with a second epoxy pour and repeated the steps above. This is the reason I stopped halfway on the previous step. By only filling up half the void, I gave myself room to add a second layer to darken the color.

While the resin was curing, I tested the glow powder with a black light.

The black light quickly charges the glow powder and it is a great way to test the glowing effect.

I used a rubber mallet to tap on the sides until the wood and resin wall art releases.

I sanded the epoxy and wood with 80, 120, 180, and 220 grit sandpaper. I wrote a detailed article on how to sand epoxy resin like a pro, so be sure to check that out if you have any questions.

First, I used Kraft paper and covered one side of the board.

I flipped the board over and cut out the Kraft paper the exact size of the board. Or, as close as possible to exact.

Then, I flipped the resin and wood surfboard over again. I folded the Kraft paper in half, sketched a half moon, and cut it out with a pair of scissors making sure to stay just outside the lines.

Next, I used painters tape to tape the wood and resin surfboard template to the board. I traced it with a pencil and used my jigsaw to cut it out just outside the line.

I traced it with a pencil and used my jigsaw to cut it out just outside the line. I used my rotary sander with 120 grit sandpaper to sand up to the pencil line.

After the rough sanding was complete, I used my trim router with a 1/2″ roundover bit to roundover the top and bottom.

Even though this surfboard will glow without LED lights (natural light charges the epoxy glow powder), I decided to add them to the bottom in case the resin and wood wall art is placed in an area with low light.

Since the surfboard can be used as wall art, I used a rechargeable battery with an on/off switch to prevent the need for a power cord or wall outlet behind it.

First, I soldered 2 small LED light strips together. Soldering is a great skill to learn as it can be used in many different applications. 

Next, I used my heat gun to heat the shrink wrap in order to protect the solder. Then, I soldered a male plug to one end of one LED light strip. This male connector will connect to the battery to power the lights.

I connected the LED light strips to the rechargeable battery to make sure they work. And, they did. :)

NOTE: You only need to do this step if you plan to use this as wall art and you want to conceal the battery.

The battery is about 1″ thick, which would create a space between the wall and the resin and wood wall art.

So, I decided to use my router with a straight bit and create a small compartment in the back of the surfboard. I made the compartment to fit the battery charger both horizontally and vertically.

First, I drew the outline. Next, I used my dremel tool to create a pathway to start my router.

I removed 1/8 of material at a time until the I reached 3/4″, which allowed the battery to slightly protrude to access the switch. This allows access to the on/off switch without needing to take the wall art from the wall.

I used my chisel to clean up the edges.

Although this finish works fine and inexpensive, it is not my favorite. For more info on finishes, checkout my list of best finishes for epoxy wood projects.

I used an oil based urethane Satin finish by General finishes on the top and bottom of the resin and wood wall art. I applied the first coat with a lint free rag.

Quick Tip: Smooth out the finish by making a soft circle with the rag and lightly wiping the length of the table.

Next, I hand sanded with 320 grit sandpaper and applied a second coat.

Then, I repeated the process above for the third and final coat.

I used a set of hairpin legs I had in my shop from a previous project.

To install the hairpin legs, I centered the back and front pair both vertically and horizontally.

I marked the holes and drilled pilot holes. Then, I secured the table with screws.

After I secured the hairpin legs, I installed the LED light strip.

I placed the rechargeable battery in the compartment and secured it with hot glue.

Next, I laid out the LED light strips and peeled off the paper covering the adhesive side. Then, I pressed them down and secured the LED light strip with hot glue for extra security.

I hope this instructable provided you with value. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions - I'm happy to help.

Be sure to checkout my YouTube channel and my website for more DIY tutorials.