Suitcase BBQ

This was designed using Autodesk Fusion 360

Thermal simulations, stress tests, g-code generation, renders, and animations were also done in Fusion 360

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There are plenty of machines and tools in modern kitchens. Now most people have kitchens equipped with every utility they could need. More recently, automation and new products are making cooking even easier than ever before.

But what if you live in a remote area and don't have access to a kitchen?

If you live in an underdeveloped country and can't afford one?

You're living in an area affected by war or a refugee camp?

Or if you want to bring your kitchen with you?

I've designed and developed this ultra-portable 'Suitcase' BBQ. It can be fabricated almost entirely out of sheet metal at a low cost. It's also been thermally optimized and has mechanisms in place to increase the safety of the design.

The main aim of the design is for it to be accessible. It requires some advanced machinery to fabricate, but the cost is low.

Through testing, I've added features to add to the practicality and functionality of the design to make it failproof.

Tools & Supplies:

Essential -

1. Sheet Metal (3mm)
2. Welding Equipment
3. Metal File
4. Metal Saw
5. Sand/Glass paper
6. Pillar/Hand Drill
7. Metal Grill
8. Malleable Metal Wire (30cm Length)
9. Hinge (x2)
10. Wood/Fuel (Obviously)

Optional -

1. Angle Grinder (for grinding and cutting)
2. Heat-Resistant Paint
3. Plasma Cutter
4. CNC Router
5. Water-Jet Cutter
6. Two-Part Locking Clips

My CAD is included in this step. You can interact with it to better understand how to assemble the BBQ. You can use this design to inspire your own, or you can download my design here.

Each body in the CAD represents an individual part. You can explode the design to better understand it.

For the larger parts, you can machine them using a plasma cutter (which I had access to in my school workshop), a CNC router, or a waterjet cutter.

The holes and smaller details can be added during machining or after with a pillar or hand drill; I recommend adding them in the main machining phase

Depending on the precision of machinery, smaller parts may have to be created by hand. In my case, the plasma cutter minimum radius was too large, so I made them by hand using a saw and metal file. If you make the smaller parts by hand, laser cut or 3D print a template of the part to ensure yours is the correct shape.

After machining or welding, you should tidy up the parts with an angle grinder and sand/glass paper.

The best advice I can give to people who haven't welded before is to wear the appropriate safety gear and test your visor first. Also, don't be nervous; if you are hesitant, it will show in your welds. Just go for it.

You should paint the parts before assembly, but make sure you don't have to do any welding after painting.

With the 5 main parts for each side of the main case (10 parts in total) machined, they need to be welded together. Make sure to use the CAD for reference to ensure they are welded in their appropriate positions and orientations.

After welding, angle grind down the welds and finish with sand/glass paper. I used wet & dry paper as it tends to work better with metals.

Don't paint the part yet, as some smaller parts need to be welded on later.

With both sides of the case completed, you can add the hinge(s) to the spine of the case and the fastening clips to the top. These can be screwed or welded.

You may want to screw these in later on if you are planning on painting.

Make two of these parts.

This part is designed to stabilize the BBQ when deployed and stop it from falling over. It can be folded inwards to reduce space.

The three parts must be welded together. If you are capable of clean welds, then you may wish to leave them un-grinded on the inside and angle-grinded on the outside.

You may wish to wrap the section that will be in contact with the ground in a wrap with a high level of friction (e.g., electrical tape).

The 'Kick-Out' should be fitted to the designated hole on the main case using some screws or a rivet (you will need 4 in total).

If you are to use screws, ensure you use a smaller diameter of the screw than the hole and some spacers to ensure it can pivot freely, but still requires force to move.

This should be done on both sides of the case.

Make two of these parts.

The part I designed in CAD can be created using sheet metal; however, in my BBQ, I decided to use sheet metal for the sides and a metal tube for the handle. I also wrapped the tube in some hockey stick wrap.

It can be made using three separate strips of sheet metal welded together, or you can bend a longer strip of metal.

Alternatively, you could weld two additional strips of metal to the ends or create two additional bends of the sheet metal strip. These could be parallel to the top of the case and screwed on.

Make two of these parts.

This latch is designed to limit how far the case can be opened.

If you are making this part by hand (like I did), I recommend cutting a strip of sheet metal to size before drilling a few holes to reduce the amount of metal you have to file. Constantly reference your physical template to ensure the part is made correctly.

You can make the knob that the latches hook onto using a lathe, or you can simply use a screw.

Make four of the metal parts and two of the spacers.

This additional mechanism is designed as a backup or alternative to the latch. It will limit the angle at which the case can be opened. I included both mechanisms in my BBQ.

The manufacturing process is the same as the latch if you are making it by hand. For this part, you may want to use an angle grinder to speed up the process.

As you can see from the main CAD, two of the metal parts are joined together on each side. Therefore, one overlaps the other. So, you must have a spacer to offset this gap so that they can both be screwed in parallel to the side of the main case. This spacer should be as thick as the thickness of the metal you are using for the metal part.

Make two of these mechanisms if you wish.

This is a less necessary feature. Essentially, it is to prevent any small pieces of solid fuel from falling out of the side of the BBQ. It's quite a complex part to manufacture, as it's quite intricate.

It consists of 2 parts on each side (4 in total).

I made all of them by hand. An angle grinder will reduce the manufacturing time. Again, as with all the hand-made parts, use a template.

You must drill a small hole in one of the corners of one part on each side. Reference the CAD if under any doubt.

You can make the grill out of whatever gridded material you have or can get. In my case, there was some gridded metal in my school workshop, so I cut it to size with a saw.

I then divided it in half and used some metal wire to join the edges of the two sides together by wrapping the wire around them both. This created a hinge.

Reference the CAD for dimensions.

Do this on both sides.

Similarly to the 'Kick-Out' stands, when fixing the latch to the pivot hole, ensure you use a smaller diameter of the screw than the hole and some small spacers to ensure it can pivot freely but still requires force to move.

As mentioned previously, you can make the knob that the latches hook onto using a lathe, or you can simply use a screw.

Do this on both sides.

Attach two of the metal parts together using a small nut and bolt. I recommend using washers. Attach the ends of this part to the sides of the main case using screws. Again, I recommend using washers.

Make sure the spacer is used underneath the elevated metal part so that it is parallel and flush with the side of the main case.

Do this on both sides.

Join the two parts together at the base hole using a small nut and bolt. I recommend using washers.

Then - reference the CAD for this - weld the part without the hole in the corner to the side of the main case. The overlap between the part and the side of the case is represented by black in the CAD.

Keep the other part (with the hole in the corner) loose. With some metal wire, wrap one end around the hole. Then wrap the other end around the two black square holes on the back of the main case.

If you get the tension right, the result should be that when you open up the case, the two parts expand. This should create a wall on the side of the case, blocking any solid fuel from falling out during use.

In the CAD, the size of the squares differs on each side of the case. Choose which design to use based on the thickness of your wire or the precision of your machinery.

Do this on both sides.

These parts should be welded in place on the top of the main case. Angle grind the welds. As mentioned before, alternatively, you could weld two additional strips of metal to the ends or create two additional bends of the sheet metal strip. These could be parallel to the top of the case and screwed on.

If painting the handle and main case in different colours, you should do this by taping off each part for painting after welding.

Do not weld the grill to the main case; this will stop it from folding inward.

Instead, get some more of the metal wire, and wrap some around each corner of the grill. There is a small slit on the top side of the main case. Use this slit to wrap the metal wire around the top side of the case to secure the grill in place.

This will allow the grill to fold inward when you close the case. It will also reduce heat transfer between the grill and the body.

You may need to push the grill down slightly when closing the case, depending on how well you do this step.

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Congratulations!

You've built the Suitcase BBQ. Above is a render of what it should look like.

Obviously, be careful when using the Suitcase BBQ. And clean it properly if you cook food on it.

Here are some images of me testing mine on a snowy day at school!