Strip Table in Oak and Walnut
by hogthrob in Workshop > Furniture
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Strip Table in Oak and Walnut
The seed idea for this instructable came in part from Wholmans fantastic Scrap Table https://www.instructables.com/id/Scrap-Table/.
However I needed to make something that would not look out of place againts the rest of the furniture in my house.
The timber is shop bought (about £120) of oak and black walnut.
I apologise now for the lack of photos of the construction but I have attached a detailed sketchup model and plans for each component.
Have fun and hopefully someone with better carpentry skills than me can do it justice.
However I needed to make something that would not look out of place againts the rest of the furniture in my house.
The timber is shop bought (about £120) of oak and black walnut.
I apologise now for the lack of photos of the construction but I have attached a detailed sketchup model and plans for each component.
Have fun and hopefully someone with better carpentry skills than me can do it justice.
Understand the Design
First have a look at the model ' table complete.skp' and take some time to understand the design. If you have never heard of sketch up it is free modelling software from google. To just view the model simply download sketchup viewer.
http://sketchup.google.com/intl/en/download/gsuviewer.html
and open the file in it. Spin the model round to get a good look at it.
The basis for each component is a 25mm x 30mm section. The real change I made to the design during construction was to cut down the number of threaded rods to 3, however I think in hind sight with a decent set of sash clamps they could be omitted altogether and the top could be just glued.
http://sketchup.google.com/intl/en/download/gsuviewer.html
and open the file in it. Spin the model round to get a good look at it.
The basis for each component is a 25mm x 30mm section. The real change I made to the design during construction was to cut down the number of threaded rods to 3, however I think in hind sight with a decent set of sash clamps they could be omitted altogether and the top could be just glued.
Select Your Wood
I chose to use oak and black walnut for my table as its pretty stable once its seasoned, I bought all the timber in planks from a local timber supplier which specialises in timber for cabinet makers probably £120-00 intotal.
I think it would work with scrap wood or even thick ply as long as you have the right equipment to regularise it.
For example 22mm ply cut into 30mm strips would probably give a great surface effect to the finished table.
I think it would work with scrap wood or even thick ply as long as you have the right equipment to regularise it.
For example 22mm ply cut into 30mm strips would probably give a great surface effect to the finished table.
Start Choppin'
Always liked a bit of Dinosaur Jnr. , Sorry.
The most time consuming part is cutting the tenons for the legs I used a band saw which wasnt the sharpest and therefore a lot of filing and fitting and filing... etc was required in order to make up the compnents for the 4 legs.
Each leg requires
3x component 1
2x component 2
2x component 3
1x component 3A
2x component 4
1x component 4A
The other change I made was not to cut a tenon into components 3,4 (which have become 3A and 4A) and 6. instead I cut the centre pieces flush to what would have been the bottom of the tenon, I have amended this in the sketchup model and noted it on the component pdf.
use table components.pdf
Continue Choppin'
Cut the components for the table top.
2 x component 5
2 x component 6 (see amendment on the pdf)
33 x component 7
I used only 3 threaded bars in the end one in the centre and one over each of the legs..
If you use 10mm threaded bar use a 12 mm drill bit, this will give you a enough tolerance to push the rods through the 37 sections that make up the table top.
use table components.pdf
2 x component 5
2 x component 6 (see amendment on the pdf)
33 x component 7
I used only 3 threaded bars in the end one in the centre and one over each of the legs..
If you use 10mm threaded bar use a 12 mm drill bit, this will give you a enough tolerance to push the rods through the 37 sections that make up the table top.
use table components.pdf
Assemble the Legs
Once you are happy all the joints go together properly glue and screw the pieces together to make up the components mak sure the screws are on the inside of the finished legs.
Assemble the Top
To sash the top you will need a large flat surface ( I used a large glass table wrapped in cling film)
Dry fit the parts first, make sure you can fit the threaded bars through all the pieces and they can be pulled together by tightening the nuts. Do this without the 40mm end strips (component 5)
Once you are happy the table top fits together and stays flat take it all apart again.
Dry fit the parts first, make sure you can fit the threaded bars through all the pieces and they can be pulled together by tightening the nuts. Do this without the 40mm end strips (component 5)
Once you are happy the table top fits together and stays flat take it all apart again.
Sash the Top
Put nuts and washers on one end of each threaded bar making sure there is around 50mm of thread showing then wrap some tape around each of them so they dont move.
Thread all the top section back on to the threaded bars this time glueing each one in place.
When all the sections are on except the 40mm end strips put the washers and nuts on the other end and tighten the strips together.
Thread all the top section back on to the threaded bars this time glueing each one in place.
When all the sections are on except the 40mm end strips put the washers and nuts on the other end and tighten the strips together.
Trim the Threaded Bar
The holes in the end section should be 12mm dia holes recessed with a 20mm dia hole 25mm deep leaving 15mm to bolt onto the rest of the top. see diagram.
You need to trim the threads to 15mm + the thickness of the nuts you are using. This means that you can then fill the holes with a plug when you are finishing. I havent filled the holes yet as I quite like how they look. on the finished table.
Leave the nuts on when cutting the thread as it will help to straighten out the thread when you remove them. If you cut the thread without the nut on it will be really difficult to re fit the nut afterwards.
You need to trim the threads to 15mm + the thickness of the nuts you are using. This means that you can then fill the holes with a plug when you are finishing. I havent filled the holes yet as I quite like how they look. on the finished table.
Leave the nuts on when cutting the thread as it will help to straighten out the thread when you remove them. If you cut the thread without the nut on it will be really difficult to re fit the nut afterwards.
Fit the End Strips
I found that I couldnt get a socket on to the nuts to tighten them so I cut a groove across the top so that I could screwit on like a screw.
Again dry fit them before gluing.
Again dry fit them before gluing.
Finishing
I belt sanded the top flat.
There were a couple of strips which had ended up a few mm lower than the others so I glued in some strips of scrap oak to fill in the difference then sanded these back flush.
Dont forget to sand the legs.
Finish with a hard wax oil this wont change the colour too much and will protect the surface.
There were a couple of strips which had ended up a few mm lower than the others so I glued in some strips of scrap oak to fill in the difference then sanded these back flush.
Dont forget to sand the legs.
Finish with a hard wax oil this wont change the colour too much and will protect the surface.
Fit the Legs
The legs fit over the lugs which protrude from the underside of the finished table tops.
Glue and screw to fix in place. use 50mm screws and counter sink them first.
If any one trys this please post some images!
Glue and screw to fix in place. use 50mm screws and counter sink them first.
If any one trys this please post some images!
Finished Table