Stooge Table WEREWOLF Made in Cold Porcelain

by El Buen Lobo Zatosaga in Craft > Clay

940 Views, 15 Favorites, 0 Comments

Stooge Table WEREWOLF Made in Cold Porcelain

20161016_135838.jpg
20161016_135622.jpg
20161016_135647.jpg
20161016_135726.jpg

Stooge table WEREWOLF made in cold porcelain

Greetings ladies and gentlemen, welcome to this, my first instructable, here will work my very own technique, I really hope you like it. Well, as you can see here a little work on the design of a puppet manipulation composite (or table/stooge puppet as is more commonly known). we will work with cold porcelain maybe some do not know this wonderful material, well, it's basically a moldable mass that dries at room temperature and it will become rigid, is very practical and economical to prepare, so we'll leave here the link of a instructable to be seen, it will be really worth it ... but here we will make a werewolf, I really advise to you to make whatever changes you want, invent your own characters and let your hands materialize the fantasy...

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Cold-P...

So let's create!!!

MATERIAL'S LIST

• Cold Porcelain of colors white, black or any color you want.

• Icopor.

• Scalpel .

• Fine wire.

• Fishing Nylon (resistance up to 60 lbs).

• Liquid silicone.

• Toilet paper or kitchen towels.

• White glue • Wooden sticks.

• Sandpaper (grade 150).

• Stilettos.

• Foil .

• Hacksaw.

• Thick Wire.

OK let’s do it!!!

​STEP 1: CARVING THE PARTS:

20161009_152543.jpg
20161009_152554.jpg
20161009_154125.jpg
20161009_154134.jpg
20161009_154213.jpg
20161009_154220.jpg
20161009_154226.jpg
20161009_163805.jpg
20161009_174834.jpg
20161009_174840.jpg
20161009_174908.jpg
20161009_174928.jpg
20161009_175039.jpg
20161009_175108.jpg
20161009_175115.jpg
20161009_175128.jpg
20161009_175137.jpg
20161009_175141.jpg
20161009_175147.jpg
20161009_175221.jpg
20161009_175234.jpg
20161009_175250.jpg
20161009_175259.jpg

With the scalpel begin to carve the parts we need, once carved we need to polish them with sandpaper 150. In total for this character we need to carve ten specific parts wich are the head, trunk, forearms, two biceps, two thighs and two calves.

​STEP 2: FILL WITH PAPER

20161009_180306.jpg
20161009_180320.jpg
20161009_181336.jpg
20161009_195248.jpg
20161009_212837.jpg

Apply in all 10 carved parts white glue and cover up more white glue, this is in order that the pieces acquire more strength without the weight commit. Let it dry...

​STEP 3: CONTROLS THE PUPPET

20161009_215723.jpg
20161009_215758.jpg
20161009_215804.jpg
20161009_220540.jpg
20161009_220551.jpg
20161010_001012.jpg
20161010_001021.jpg

Meanwhile, we need to open a hole in the back of the calfs and in the head to fix some wooden sticks so that from there you can control the movements of the puppet ... the sticks are fixed with liquid silicone.

​STEP 4: COLD PORCELAIN IN ACTION!

20161009_222441.jpg
20161009_222553.jpg
20161009_222743.jpg
20161009_222754.jpg
20161009_222858.jpg
20161009_224232.jpg
20161009_231149.jpg
20161009_231852.jpg
20161009_232154.jpg
20161009_232200.jpg
20161009_232845.jpg
20161009_232851.jpg
20161010_001220.jpg
20161010_001234.jpg
20161010_001727.jpg
20161010_002029.jpg
20161010_002042.jpg
20161010_002104.jpg
20161010_012015.jpg
20161010_012059.jpg
20161010_111231.jpg
20161010_111244.jpg
20161010_111258.jpg

Take cold porcelain pieces and put it to cover body parts ... I advise you not to stay neither too thin nor too thick, a thickness of approximately 3 to 5 mm would be fine. Once placed, the cold porcelain we can do some modeling like giving the pieces hair texture, this is achieved by passing a stylus over the cold porcelain up and down repeatedly. I almost forgot, if you want to paint the puppet controls this is a good time, let it dry, usually the cold porcelain dries in about one day.

​STEP 5: HANDS

20161010_113336.jpg
20161010_113435.jpg
20161010_113712.jpg
20161010_115409.jpg
20161010_115506.jpg
20161010_115513.jpg
20161010_115826.jpg
20161010_120113.jpg
20161012_171757.jpg
20161012_173612.jpg
20161012_173634.jpg
20161012_173642.jpg

To make the hands we need fine wire structures that mimic the shape of hands, look after them with wooden sticks so that they can be manipulated, then surround them with foil to give volume, then cover with cold porcelain.

​STEP 6: HEAD

20161012_175407.jpg
20161012_175418.jpg
20161012_175942.jpg
20161012_180059.jpg
20161012_180419.jpg
20161012_180429.jpg
20161012_180818.jpg
20161012_180850.jpg
20161012_181309.jpg
20161012_181321.jpg
20161012_181455.jpg
20161012_181512.jpg
20161012_181553.jpg
20161012_182336.jpg
20161012_191418.jpg
20161012_191436.jpg
20161012_195644.jpg
20161012_200007.jpg
20161012_202036.jpg

We need to make the head and start to put all the parts to make a head shape ... in the photos there is the sequence of how it looks and where to place the parts ... do not forget to give it texture.

​STEP 7: CUTS FOR THE JOINTS

20161012_202405.jpg
20161012_202418.jpg
20161012_203955.jpg
20161012_205328.jpg
20161012_205334.jpg
20161012_205504.jpg
20161012_205514.jpg
20161012_205523.jpg
20161012_233357.jpg
20161012_233436.jpg

You guys need to pay attention to this part, keep in mind that the parts go together with nylon ... we locate the parts that carry the grooves and holes of the joints, namely the two thighs and two biceps, take a hacksaw, let's start with the thighs, make cuts both ends across half the diameter of the workpiece, the two cuts in the thigh should be parallel, in the same direction and with a depth of no more than one half centimeters, biceps also need these cuts but these are perpendicular on the pieces, once this is done, we need to sand away the cuts to make the spaces between bigger, with that space and we can move into the part small pieces of cold porcelain made them so they fit in the walls of the cut, as a result we have some pieces with spaces where you can slip the nylon through without problems.

20161012_233909.jpg
20161012_234414.jpg
20161012_235342.jpg
20161012_235739.jpg
20161012_235805.jpg
20161013_000544.jpg
20161013_000558.jpg
20161013_001532.jpg
20161013_001542.jpg
20161013_001554.jpg
20161013_011241.jpg
20161013_011249.jpg

STEP 8: DRILLING FOR JOINTS

At the head, forearms, calves and parts of the trunk that communicate with the limbs and head is prudent to make perforations, the parts to which they were made cuts also would touch them, also make some perforations crossing from side to side as shown in the pictures.

​STEP 9: THICK WIRE SHAFT SET

20161013_002908.jpg
20161013_002932.jpg
20161013_004527.jpg

In the perforations of the thighs and biceps we will place some thick wires passing through the holes, cut them so that they are fair in the piece and lock them in place with liquid silicone.

​STEP 10: NYLON IN ACTION

20161013_020825.jpg
20161013_021238.jpg
20161013_021704.jpg
20161013_021712.jpg
20161013_021922.jpg
20161013_022510.jpg
20161013_022516.jpg
20161013_022606.jpg
20161013_022830.jpg
20161013_022844.jpg
20161013_023235.jpg
20161013_030033.jpg
20161013_030259.jpg
20161013_030313.jpg
20161013_030343.jpg
20161013_030904.jpg
20161013_031437.jpg
20161013_031512.jpg
20161013_031546.jpg

With the scalpel cut plastic pieces in the form of rings, these little pieces serve to tie and fix the nylon, spent said nylon for the ring and set the head went through a short wire to make a l ittle stopper, make the nylon go through the gap of the head and secure it with silicone, once this is done we pass the nylon by the neck hole, you see this hole ends at the bottom of the trunk, there must also tie up with small plastic pieces and silicone so the head is already secured to the body, use more than two nylons in the head is a good idea, attention, do not cut the nylons, they serve to make the tail later. To add the biceps and thighs to the body, pass the nylon between the thick wire that is fixed on the piece of the biceps and thighs, once this is done pass the nylon through the hole in the trunk that ends in the back, moor, secure it with silicone and cut the nylon that is remaining. In order to complete the extremities, take another nylon wire from the thighs and bíceps and make it go through the calves and forearms as appropriate. Having done that the hands may be tied to the forearms with nylon, I make it so in this figure I added a piece to the calf to make it higher and to disappear by the end of nylon in the left leg.

​STEP 11: DETAILS AND FINISHES

20161016_002823.jpg
20161016_002851.jpg
20161016_002916.jpg
20161016_003005.jpg
20161016_003011.jpg
20161016_003055.jpg
20161016_003059.jpg
20161016_003106.jpg
20161016_003119.jpg
20161016_003407.jpg
20161016_003419.jpg
20161016_003423.jpg
20161016_003457.jpg
20161016_003504.jpg
20161016_003600.jpg
20161016_003626.jpg
20161016_003722.jpg
20161016_003727.jpg
20161016_004008.jpg
20161016_004141.jpg
20161016_004431.jpg
20161016_043201.jpg
20161016_043213.jpg
20161016_043221.jpg
20161016_043231.jpg
20161016_043244.jpg
20161016_043251.jpg
20161016_043303.jpg

With a piece of flattened cold porcelain wrap the nylon we leave for the tail, scoop out to make some texture and there we have the tail of our character, also cover the exposed parts with silicone, to finish you can do details such as placing hair in parts where there is and some other features so your own puppet is unique.

​SOMETHINGS TO CONSIDER

20161016_134511.jpg
20161016_134540.jpg
20161016_134544.jpg
20161016_135602.jpg
20161016_135622.jpg
20161016_135647.jpg
20161016_135726.jpg
20161016_135838.jpg
20161016_135846.jpg

• The color of cold porcelain usually darkens as it dries.

• The cold porcelain melts at too damp place or in contact with water

• If the cold porcelain is very sticky leave it outdoors for a period of about ten minutes, knead it and see if you see some differences.

• Vaseline also helps the cold porcelain not to stick to the hands ... or other surfaces, so please take this into account

I hope you like, make many puppets with this technique, also there are fun to made and almost non expensive, also please do no hesitate to make some photos and send them to me, hope to see or hear from you guys, see ya around.