Steelseries H/800 Wireless Microphone Replacement
by josiah47 in Circuits > Reuse
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Steelseries H/800 Wireless Microphone Replacement
![steelseries-h-wireless.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F0Y/H1VZ/IYNLMMET/F0YH1VZIYNLMMET.png&filename=steelseries-h-wireless.png)
Short story is that some how the microphone on my headset blew. could only hear stuff if I blew into it very hard, normal talking was not cutting it.
So the game plan was to replace it. Since I don't need it to be retractable, aka I always have it out.
My plan was to order the Antlion Audio ModMic 4 microphone and try and hack it in
FIY the Steelseries H was rebranded to the 800 series
Stock Microphone Specs
- Frequency Response: 100Hz - 10000Hz
- Mic Pattern: Unidirectional
- Microphone Sensitivity -44 dB
- Microphone Impedance 2200 Ohm Indication:
- Red LED on mute
ModMic 4 Specs
- Pattern: Uni-directional
- Sensitivity: -38 ± 3 dB
- Response: 100 Hz–10 kHzSNR: >50+ dB
- Impedance: 2.2 KΩ
- Operating Voltage: 1 to 10V
- Max current at 2.0V: 500 µA
- Max input SPL: 110 dB
Well it looks like it should work!
Ordered the ModMic4 with out mute switch, we are going to cut it off anyways...
Tear Down of Stock Headset
![DSC_0485.JPG](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FET/G7QM/IYNLMJ28/FETG7QMIYNLMJ28.jpg&filename=DSC_0485.JPG)
You will need to take apart your left ear piece.
Rough Steps
- Remove battery.
- Remove ear cup by pulling gently on one side
- Remove 4 screws surrounding speaker
- Now you have to remove the circuit board that the current mic/led cable is soldered too, noting connections for the mic, we will be losing the LED capability
- By the time your done this step you should have removed the old mic and coil wheel and unsoldered the current mic.
Install ModMic4 Replacement
![DSC_0507.JPG](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FKK/DMW0/IYNLMJ2E/FKKDMW0IYNLMJ2E.jpg&filename=DSC_0507.JPG)
- Take your newly purchased ModMic4 and cut the wire about 4-6" from the molding of wire to flexible arm.
- Strip the end, taking a knife blade and gently scrapping off the varnish from wires, positive one only has it on mine, this will allow soldering.
- Feed wire through old microphone hole in headset, We got lucky here and you can push in snugly and it will stay without glue, also allows rotating of mic boom while using.
- Use old coil wheel clip to secure wire, this will also help if you pull out the mic from the hole, at least it won't be tugging on the solder connection.
- solder onto the circuit board. noting positive and negative connections, Ground wire is usually bigger and goldish and not insulated.
- before assembling your headset, take it for a test drive and see if it works.
- If it works assemble your headset by reversing the tear down steps.
Your Newly Refurbished Headset
![20170202_075214.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F49/II2L/IYNLMJ76/F49II2LIYNLMJ76.jpg&filename=20170202_075214.jpg)
And you should be off to the races, mine has been in use for months already and working amazingly, microphone seems to also produce better sounds. And the flexible boom of the ModMic4 is far superior to the stock one.
Steelseries should change this setup in my opion and do what other manufactures have done and provide a 3.5mm jack in that hole. then you can use what ever mics are on the market. and you could just unplug it when you don't need it... I would also move the mute LED to the Outside ear pieces somewhere.
Any questions feel free to comment!