Steel Pacific Northwest Totem Pole

I have always loved and appreciated spiritual totem poles. I planned and researched and examined traditional ones and created a pole that hopefully honors the real carvings.

This is mostly a scrap metal creation using:

• Propane, RO, and other steel bottles
• Round steel fence posts
• Sheet metal
• Ball bearings

You get the idea. I believe it goes without saying - but in the name of safety - BE SURE TO RESEARCH HOW TO PROPERLY/EFFECTIVELY CLEAN OUT GAS TANKS BEFORE CUTTING/WELDING!!!

I start with a picture of an existing spirit that I like, and a discarded gas bottle. I strip off all the paint down to bare metal after thoroughly venting and cleaning the inside.

Next I draw layout lines both plumb and level to give me monuments for locating the face features, arms, whatnot. I find that a roll of flexible magnet tape is perfect - it conforms to the curves, is easy to level and plumb, and allows me to use a paint pen to mark the lines.

Then to figure out how to get some depth in the tank. Most of the time I kerf cut the circumference of a sectioned bottle, bend in the kerfs, and weld the slits back up. Once ground it adds a bit of a neckline to the figure.

If you have an extensive scrap metal collection, this part is easier. I sit back, wander through the shop, and figure out what piece works for what feature. Washers for eyes, another cut up bottle for ears, etc. I've used concrete form stakes, rebar, round, square, and u-channel bars, ball bearings - the possibilities really are endless.

Depth - it's all about how much depth you can bring to each piece. Just a layer or two really brings the spirits to life.

For the bear ears I cut up another bottle so the curvatures were already correct, layered up a couple sections, and plug welded them together. For the salmon, I rough cut plate steel, heated to forge temperatures, and hammered a dish into them with a shrinking hammer. This left a rough scaly texture and I intentionally didn't remove the scale from the body so they had more interest.

Heat bluing is fun and easy to play with. I used a hand torch and a sharp eye to watch for the beginning of the color change on the balls on the crown. Watch closely to ease up to the color you are looking for. If you go too far, just a light sanding will remove it and you can try again.

I use purpose built cutting guides and homemade tools to make the features and stuff. Mostly fence posts for the arms, washers with the centers welded in for eyes, other bottles or sheet metal for noses, mouths.

For more complex curves like the sheet steel nose, imagine the shape pressed flat to get an idea of how large to start, then just cut paper patterns and trim, trim, trim until it looks like you want. Trace it to the steel, a little hammering, and you'll have it.

Drawing and pre-layout will minimize mistakes and waste. It helps me get proportions correct and spaced well. Use the monument lines to keep the eyes level and the nose and mouth centered.

Once all the spirits are done and I'm happy with how they go together, I weld them together to finish the stack. At this point I have everything pretty shiny or blackened with cold blue on the highlights. I get a few beauty shots, then let it rust with nature. The various metals used will rust differently from one another, adding even more detail to the piece.

All in all I'm extremely happy with what I'm learning in my metalworking. I hope you find this entertaining and maybe even a little inspirational.