This tutorial shows you how I turned a second-hand mannequin torso into a steampunk-inspired wall sculpture using leather scraps, found hardware, resin castings, and metallic finishes. The build mixes upcycling with mixed-media techniques and is perfect for anyone who enjoys texture, layering, and dimensional art.

I’ll take you through prepping the surface, adding patchwork detailing, building the corset, filling the torso with industrial elements, and creating the metallic finish that pulls everything together.

What is Assemblage Art?

An assemblage combines everyday objects into a three-dimensional artwork. Hardware, packaging, jewellery parts, fabric, and even broken toys can become components. By arranging, layering, and fixing them in place, you create a new visual story from familiar pieces. The mix of textures, materials, and shapes is what gives assemblage its unique personality.

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Materials needed

1. Thrifted plastic mannequin torso
2. Leather scraps/offcuts, leather strip for corset, braided trim
3. Sisal or macramé rope
4. Eyelets + punch tool, leather lacing
5. Half-round beads (for faux rivets), pearl drop beads, assorted charms
6. Found hardware: nuts, bolts, washers, upholstery studs, small gears
7. Resin castings + silicone moulds (wings, discs, chess pieces, lock and keys etc.)
8. Metal filigree discs, squares and assorted
9. Blu Tack, strong tacky glue (e.g., Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate),
10. Hot-glue gun + black glue sticks
11. 80-grit sanding block, craft knife & Cutting mat, scissors
12. Black acrylic paint
13. Metallic/rust effect paint
14. Silver wax paste (or DIY)
15. Detail brushes, foam brush,
16. Acrylic spray (optional; test on leather first)
17. Timber block, keyhole wall bracket, screws, drill/driver
18. Safety gear: silicon fingers

Most mannequins are slippery plastic, so the first job is roughing up the surface.

Lightly scuff the entire torso with an 80-grit sanding block—just enough to remove the shine. Wipe away the dust and wash it with warm, soapy water so the glue can grip.

Glue a strip of leather down the centre front. This becomes the foundation for your corset lacing and the decorative elements beneath it.

Cut two long leather pieces to form the corset panels. Fold the edges inward so they sit cleanly and punch eyelets along each side. Brush glue on the back of the leather, but leave the eyelet channel free so you can lace it after embellishing the interior.

Cut your leather scraps into squares and rectangles. Patch the torso like a quilt, overlapping pieces for depth. Old jackets and bags work beautifully for this.

The bust area is the trickiest part because of the curves. Add V-shaped relief cuts in your leather so the patches sit flat.

For the bust, I switched to sisal rope.

Start in the centre, tack the rope with hot glue so it doesn't slip, then apply craft glue and spiral the rope outward. Keep the turns tight and trim the end neatly under the final coil. Finish the look with some decorative buttons.

Add a leather belt or extra trim if you want to break up the patchwork visually.

Now comes the fun: building dimension.

Use metal filigree pieces to fill awkward gaps around the bust and shoulders. Cut them as needed and glue them down. Don’t worry if hot glue squeezes through openings; you can trim it away later with a craft knife.

Add more strips of leather down the front or legs and set eyelets for visual interest. Jewellery from thrift stores is great for edging, framing, or adding focal details. I found a metal necklace that worked as a collar piece.

To make the leather patches look like metal plates, glue a half-round bead onto each corner.

Blu Tack on the end of a pen makes picking them up incredibly fast—dab into glue and press into place.

Finish this area by draping pearl drop beads under the bust for a mechanical-Victorian look.

Because the corset panels are open, you can treat the inside like a mechanical cavity.

Start glueing in nuts, bolts, washers, gears, and resin castings. Layer from the centre outward to build a deep, industrial cluster. Wings, discs, chess pieces, and anything with texture work beautifully here.

Be generous with variety—assemblage thrives on contrast.

Before painting, add all remaining decorations:

1. Upholstery studs
2. Beaded spirals
3. Jigsaw pieces
4. LEGO bits
5. Braided trim along seams
6. Metal charms and small filigree

There are too many little additions to list, so I’ve included the before-paint photos—zoom in to see everything I used. The most obvious detail is the braided trim running down the side of the mannequin; it’s perfect for hiding the raw edges and joins of the leather patches.

Use rust-effect or metallic paints to coat everything inside the corset cavity.

Sponge and dab layers until the texture looks aged and worn. This area should contrast with the polished exterior.

Paint the entire mannequin with black acrylic.

Use a detail brush to reach rivets, seams, rope texture, and filigree gaps. Thin coats preserve all the raised detail.

Apply silver wax paste only to raised areas.

Use your fingertip and barely touch the surface—let the ridges catch the colour while the recesses stay dark. This brings all the textures to life. If you don’t have silver wax paste at home, you might already have the ingredients to make your own, and this post will show you how.

To balance the shine, brush small touches of rust tones onto selected embellishments.

Blend the edges so the colours fade naturally into the black.

A clear acrylic spray gives a beautiful finish, but test it on your leather first. Some leathers can stay tacky for a while. If unsure, leave it unsealed.

Because the back of the torso is hollow, fix a timber block inside the cavity with screws.

Attach a keyhole hanger to the block. On the front, cover the screw positions with decorative elements, such as a small disc or embellishment.

This mount allows the sculpture to sit flush against the wall.

Here are some more ideas you can use for inspiration when creating your mannequin. More tutorials can be found on my website, Unique Creations By Anita.