Steampunk Direct Drive Rotary Buffing Machine Powered by Dyson With Retro 80s Secret

While attempting to make a 10 inch razor i needed to do some substantial buffing.iv had the buffing disk for years, iv used it attached via nut bolt to hand drill, i can make better use of it if it goes faster and is attached to something stationary. that's where making this little beauty comes into play.

Tools

• tap and die set
• hacksaw
• soldering iron
• wire cutters/strippers
• hot glue gun
• vernier caliper
• drill/driver
• scissors
• pencil
• file
• jigsaw
• knives and hammers and things
• vice

Materials

• scrap plywood pieces.
• abrasive paper, 60, 180 , 2000
• M10 bolt
• rubber feet,salvaged from an old Roland amplifier.
• scrap of leather/suede
• contact adhesive evo stick
• araldite epoxy glue
• heavy duty double-sided sticky pads.came with mirror 'lots' from ikea.
• raided my box of odd shapes of metal and plastic.
• small machine screw
• M10 wing nut,i found an antique one.
• buffing wheel with removable shaft.
• self tapping screws
• on off switch
• yellow duster polishing cloth
  
• bison wax polish
• inkjet ink ,i originally bought it for pens until i found out this type of ink gums up pens somin rotten.
• motor and driver from dyson dc24 cleaner head assembly
• rubber holder for motor
• pipe clips ,found in a box at my old place of work.
• perforated steel sheet,salvaged from an old Roland amplifier
• amber neon light mains powered
• exhaust pipe clamp.
• aluminum mesh
• cigarettes and alcohol (optional depending on personal preference and local bylaws)

• I chose this one because its what i had in a draw, i presumed its sturdy and fast.as it manages to make plastic components of the head melt with friction.making a replacement head necessary.
• Iv added links to the exact motor and most materials if your not a found materials kind of person.
• I think you can imagine there's a lot of motors in the world , what one you choose is entirely up to you.

• Driving via a belt has advantages of torque and motor sympathy, wanted to keep the belt drive but the pulley once freed from the housing revealed that it hasn't got much meat on it so attaching the buffer with a strong connection would be a problem.
• Direct drive it will be.

• Compression fit belt drive gear is really well stuck onto the spindle.
• Can you pull it off without dragging the spindle through the motor, Yay!
• Cut it off,trying not to damage the spindle, if it will not move.

• Scribe across the points of the nut,
• See that the lines intersect at the center,
• Scribe or Pointy center punch makes a starter dent for the drill.
• Spindle is very near 4mm ,
• So make a 4mm hole.

Starting the hole in the middle is the easy bit , Keeping the hole parallel to the bolt will take a couple of attempts when using a hand drill.

• Mark ,Drill and tap a thread into the side of the bolt head of the drive bolt.
• Machine screw locks it on the spindle,
• Mount the motor to some scrap plywood.
• Mains power connection allows you to turn it on and get an idea of how parallel your hole isn't.

If you know someone with lathe access, you know what to do. Alan's got a monster.

Incidentally putting a accurate hole down the middle of a bolt only takes a jiffy, with the right equipment.

• Plumbing supply boss adapter rubber holder works a treat holding the motor whilst reducing vibration ,
• pipe clip at both ends holds it all in place
• Put an extra cut clip on to cover the live brush terminals on the side of the motor.

• Remove the reset switch (think it works like a rcd or something) from the pcb, leave the wires alone. It is held on with a sticky pad and some glue round the edge.
• Roughly trim the excess unoccupied space off the end of the board with side cutters to save some space.

• Bend the metal by hand. bit by bit to get a nice curve that matches the motor and clips.

If you have a sheet roller or english wheel you can make amazing shapes in metal.

• Jimmy it to be compact as possible, let the components and materials dictate the size.
• Just in case, you can use a hack saw (meant for metal) to get a fairly smooth finish while cutting the plywood.
• Jigsaws are useful curved bits .

• Knock cutout for on switch and reset button
• Knob shaped amber neon light so you can tell if it has got power.
• Know to put the power cable and neon in their holes before soldering the wiring.
• Knurled plastic grip ,rubber grommet or hot glue and a knot to secure the mains cable.
• Kudos prescribes that all other non insulated connections put heat shrink on.

• Larger mass makes the thing less likely to leap around the table. Newtonian physics explains this.
• Lump of scrap metal is perfect for this
• Lackadaisically you could go about gluing it into place ,or nut and bolt it with a nylock or something, but to be extra secure I recommend threading the ballast, So no chance of a loose nut shorting anything inside.

• Electrical collisions are bad.Make sure it all fits without colliding.
• Everything need to be insulated and secure with hot glue.

The capacitor end of the board fits nicely under the motor.

It makes more sense to do this step before the next one, the picture shows that i didnt.

• Cut a piece of ply the same shape as the base
• Cut a sticky pad sheet the same shape as the base
• Cellular sandwich it all together.

Sticky pads are a similar thickness to the layers in plywood, great eh?

or some other old exotic rainforesty hardwood. Rough guide to the process,i was using trial and error method.

1. Push a file across it to get any lumps off
2. P60 sandpaper
3. P180 sandpaper
4. P2000 sand paper
5. Punctuate with light wax
6. Polish and buff with soft cloth
7. Paint on apply yellow ink
8. Paint on apply black ink
9. Polish and buff with soft cloth
10. P180 paper to bring highlights of wood out.
11. Persist with light wax
12. Polish and buff with soft cloth
13. Please return to step 7.

it will become smooth and shiny and smell nice.

• Running motor draws air in through the front to cool it, polishing pad fluff could go clogging it up.
• Round plastic bit comes from a laptop cooler stand,
• Retailers keep aluminum mesh with car body shop supplies, the mesh cuts easy with scissors or sharp knife.
• Retain the motors original bolts and add washers to fix it all on.

• Add some stamped information on a piece of old polished brass.
• Adhesive glue on the back is what mostly holds it on.
• Aluminum rivets are just for show,
• Adjust their length and glue them into shallow holes.

• Exhaust pipe clamps do bend into an L shape with some effort a vice and hands and a foot.
• Extend the thread with a die if needed or you just feel like it.

When bending things in vices, they bend at the point nearest the jaws. also its surprisingly easy to damage a vice,especially the cheap ones i buy.

• Glue and screw some more ply together, and cut file / sand any unsightly corners off.
• Glue leather as a non slip surface to grip the underside of the desk with contact adhesive.
• Grab a drill and make a hole for the bar,
• Good metal inserts into the hole ends to make it look more designy.

• Thinly wax it its first time,
• Tenaciously cut some grooves with a hacksaw,
• Tin of spray paint gets into grooves.
• Time to wait for it to dry a bit.
• Take a layer off with p180 paper .
• Thoroughly Re-wax and ink it.

various bobbles and pimples.

I noticed the base was mallet shaped, and painted it accordingly, i was always a fan of Timmy Mallet through the 1980s