Star Trek II ( the Wrath of Khan ) Phaser Modifictaion
by timbonderud in Circuits > Lasers
3504 Views, 16 Favorites, 0 Comments
Star Trek II ( the Wrath of Khan ) Phaser Modifictaion
I wanted to add a laser to this replica, so I put in a laser housing.
The laser module is a 5mw 650nm - www.aixiz.net
We purchased our phaser from shop.com and received some
cash back too. I believe we found it for $34.99 with a dollar
something cash back savings, a good price.
You can sign up for a free shop.com account and when you
purchase you get cash back from alot of different stores. Check
out the stores link and see the cash back savings. I buy alot of my replicas and electronic
gadgets through this site.
I wanted to use the existing switch on the phaser so all i added
was a 3volt battery pack and laser housing with some modifications
to the insides.
The laser housing can be replaced with up too a 200mw or so
which is capable of popping balloons but i wanted to keep it
safe, just in case one of the grand kids got hold of it.
The laser module is a 5mw 650nm - www.aixiz.net
We purchased our phaser from shop.com and received some
cash back too. I believe we found it for $34.99 with a dollar
something cash back savings, a good price.
You can sign up for a free shop.com account and when you
purchase you get cash back from alot of different stores. Check
out the stores link and see the cash back savings. I buy alot of my replicas and electronic
gadgets through this site.
I wanted to use the existing switch on the phaser so all i added
was a 3volt battery pack and laser housing with some modifications
to the insides.
The laser housing can be replaced with up too a 200mw or so
which is capable of popping balloons but i wanted to keep it
safe, just in case one of the grand kids got hold of it.
Disassemble unit ( both parts ), the main phaser and the
removable one.
removable one.
You will find 4 lights on a small circuit board inside
the handheld unit.
Before cutting look at the traces to see how the two
outside lights are connected to each other, because
you will have to solder a wire between them after
you cut the two inside lights out, this is for power for
the left light.
Just make sure the original wires for the
two outside lights are still attached. The wires for
the two inside lights do not need to be connected.
the handheld unit.
Before cutting look at the traces to see how the two
outside lights are connected to each other, because
you will have to solder a wire between them after
you cut the two inside lights out, this is for power for
the left light.
Just make sure the original wires for the
two outside lights are still attached. The wires for
the two inside lights do not need to be connected.
This is what the two lights look like after they are
hot glued in place with the laser between them.
hot glued in place with the laser between them.
This is the removable handheld unit you are working on.
Now you will want to connect the positive lead from the laser
to pin # 6 on the connector board.
Then connect the negative lead to pin # 5 on the connector
board.
The connector board is the small circuit board that allows
the pins to connect to each other from the main unit to
the handheld unit.
Now you will want to connect the positive lead from the laser
to pin # 6 on the connector board.
Then connect the negative lead to pin # 5 on the connector
board.
The connector board is the small circuit board that allows
the pins to connect to each other from the main unit to
the handheld unit.
Now cut the plastic cover that goes in front of the laser.
This will allow the light to be uninterrupted.
Then reassemble the removable handheld unit with the
laser inside.
This will allow the light to be uninterrupted.
Then reassemble the removable handheld unit with the
laser inside.
Now on the top section of the main phaser assembly.
You will see the other connector board.
Find pin # 1 on this board and solder the postive
wire from the battery pack to it. Pin #1 has no factory
hookups to it.
Then find the switch circuit board in the lower half
of the main phaser and solder the negative battery
terminal to it.
Now I forgot to take a picture with the wire on it, but
you will see the four terminals of the switch, solder
a wire from the bottom right terminal to pin #2 on the
connector board this is were the gray wire hooks up
from factory.
You will see the other connector board.
Find pin # 1 on this board and solder the postive
wire from the battery pack to it. Pin #1 has no factory
hookups to it.
Then find the switch circuit board in the lower half
of the main phaser and solder the negative battery
terminal to it.
Now I forgot to take a picture with the wire on it, but
you will see the four terminals of the switch, solder
a wire from the bottom right terminal to pin #2 on the
connector board this is were the gray wire hooks up
from factory.
Now place the battery pack in and if you have some
foam or something around use it to help secure
the pack. This will put pressure on it and stop the
pack from rattling around in there.
Now reassemble unit.
You will still have the original sound effects too.
foam or something around use it to help secure
the pack. This will put pressure on it and stop the
pack from rattling around in there.
Now reassemble unit.
You will still have the original sound effects too.
Happy playing !!
This phaser will now illuminate low level
clouds, very very cool.
This phaser will now illuminate low level
clouds, very very cool.