Space Station Themed Friction Mount Window Frames With Smart Lighting

This project walks through the build of removable, screw-free, LED lit space station window frames using pink rigid foam insulation, custom decals, RGB lighting, and a touch of home automation magic. Designed to bring sci-fi aesthetics to my home office (without damaging walls or windows), these frames press-fit securely in place with no glue, screws, or permanent mounting. Each step is brought to life with stopmotion videos from foam cutting to decal application to the final glow up installation.

1. Rigid Foam Insulation Board – 1/2-inch x 24-inch x 96-inch, R-3.0, Butt Edge
2. (Used for all frame components, detail pieces, and structure)
3. RGB LED strips
4. Magic Home Wi-Fi LED controller
5. Black vinyl (for decals)
6. Silver Enamel Paint pen (for details and stencil work)
7. Clear transfer film
8. Plastic painters' mask
9. Grey house paint (used: “Moon Grey”)
10. Wire mesh (small sheet)
11. Diffuser material (cut from packaging or thin acrylic)
12. Basic wiring supplies (solder, wire, heat shrink)
13. Hot glue sticks
14. Vinyl cutter (optional)
15. X-Acto knife / straightedge
16. Soldering iron
17. Paintbrushes, foam brushes

Before you cut anything, take time to measure the window area where your foamcore frame will be installed. Because these frames are removable and screw free, they rely on a tight friction fit against the window trim or wall space; precision matters.

Measure:

1. Interior window dimensions (width and height)
2. Depth of the window recess and exisiting window frame
3. Any obstructions like window opeing handles, blinds, or brackets

Plan:

1. Sketch the outer shape of your frame to match the scifi “space station” look you want
2. Map out where your LED detail pieces, static greebles, and vinyl decals will go
3. Consider leaving 1 mm of oversize in the frame outline to ensure a snug pressure fit

Tips:

1. Use painter’s tape and cardboard to block out a mockup shape directly on your wall or window before cutting
2. Remember: Since you're not using glue or screws, your frame should stay in place through side pressure, light compression, or slotting
3. If you’re building multiple frames (we did for three office windows), sketch each different window size separately (we had two of the same size and one larger)

Now that we’ve planned our design and measured our window area, it’s time to cut the foam board into frame pieces. We used 1/2-inch R-3.0 rigid foam insulation board, which is lightweight, easy to shape, and holds paint and details well.

Tools You'll Need:

1. Sharp hobby knife (X-Acto or box cutter)
2. Straightedge or metal ruler
3. Cutting mat or protected surface
4. Pencil or fine marker for layout

How to Cut:

1. Transfer your design to the foam board using a pencil. be carefull not to get excess marks on the showing side of the foam. I sometimes use the back side to make my lines as not to damage the hero side.
2. Cut slowly and in multiple passes to avoid tearing the foam. Don’t try to go through in one slice.
3. If you're creating a frame with an interior window opening, score the outline lightly before cutting all the way through.
4. Keep your cuts as straight as possible; clean edges help the frame press fit neatly later.
5. Label the pieces with small pencil marks on the back for easy reassembly.

Safety Tip: Foam insulation dulls the blades very fast. Replace your blade after every 3–5 long cuts for cleaner results and less tearing.

With your foam pieces cut and ready, it's time to assemble the base frame and begin shaping the sci-fi window structure. This step includes creating the frame’s corners, adding internal and external friction mounts, and introducing the angled design that gives the frame its distinctive space station aesthetic.

1. Create 45° Corner Joints
2. Cut 45 degree angles into the ends of your four main foam strips.
3. These will form the corners of your rectangular frame.
4. Use a straightedge and make multiple passes with a sharp blade for cleaner results.
5. Glue the Frame Corners
6. Apply hot glue sparingly along the 45 degree cuts and press pieces together to form the four corners.
7. Complete all corners to form a closed rectangle.
8. Allow glue to cool fully before moving or flipping the frame.
9. Flip the Frame Over (Back Side)
10. Position the frame face-down to begin adding structural and mounting elements.
11. Add Interior Friction Plates
12. Cut four 2.5 cm wide strips of foam to match the inner edges of the frame. these are the parts that will be on the inside of the window frame.
13. Glue them inside the back of the frame; these will act as friction plates pressing against the window trim surface.
14. Install Interior Corner Triangles
15. Cut four triangular foam pieces and glue them into the inside corners of the frame.
16. These break up the rectangular geometry and begin forming a hexagonal scifi style window silhouette.
17. Add Outer Mounting Strips
18. Cut four 1.5 cm wide foam strips and glue them along the outer back edges of the frame.
19. These help create a gentle tension fit when the frame is installed over your real window trim or recessed mount area.
20. Shape Outer Hexagonal Angles
21. Trim the outer perimeter edges of the rectangular frame to mirror the hexagonal shapes formed on the inside.
22. This can be done with angled cuts for a unified sci fi look.
23. Take your time to ensure symmetry.

Tips:

1. Use a guide or angle jig to keep 45 degree cuts consistent.
2. Light sanding with fine grit paper can help refine visible angles.
3. Optional: reinforce interior corners with toothpicks if you want added rigidity.

With the base window frame assembled, it’s time to enhance the sci-fi realism by adding static details. These non-functional shapes and textures give the impression of machinery, panels, or airlock components. This step gives the frame its “space station tech” look and feel before lighting and painting.

Materials Used:

1. Foam pieces (cutoffs from Step 2/3)
2. Hobby knife
3. Hot glue or foam-safe adhesive
4. Ruler and fine marker

Instructions:

1. Plan the Detail Layout
2. Decide which areas of the frame will get static features. Common placements include:
3. Side panels
4. Bottom edge; suggesting access ports or vents
5. Corners or seams for faux fasteners or structural accents
6. Cut Detail Shapes
7. Use leftover foam to cut out shapes such as:
8. Rectangles (for access hatches)
9. Squares and strips (for support panels or covers)
10. Triangles and hex shapes (to match the sci-fi aesthetic)
11. layering thin foam to create dimension.

Style Tip:

Even though these details are static, they’ll pop visually once painted and weathered. Focus on making the shapes clean and symmetrical; the real imagineering comes in later stages.

Now that we've created all our custom greebles and detail pieces, it’s time to arrange and attach them to your window frame. This step brings character to the build, helping it resemble an airlock panel, access hatch, or space station interface.

Materials Needed:

1. Pre-cut detail elements (from Step 4)
2. Hot glue gun
3. Ruler or measuring tape
4. Pencil or fine-tip marker (for marking positions)
5. Cutting blade (for trimming if needed)

Instructions:

1. Plan the Layout
2. Lay the frame face up on your work surface.
3. Arrange the detail pieces on the surface without gluing to decide their placement.
4. Focus on balance; place heavier details opposite each other or near corners for symmetry.
5. Mark Attachment Points
6. Use a pencil to lightly mark where each piece will go.
7. This is helpful especially for layered or aligned components.
8. Hot Glue the Details in Place
9. Power up your glue gun and begin with one section at a time.
10. Apply hot glue to the back of each piece and press it firmly into place on the frame.
11. Hold each piece for 10 to15 seconds to ensure a strong bond.
12. Repeat for all other components.
13. Clean Up Excess Glue
14. Remove any glue strings with tweezers or by hand once the glue has cooled.
15. If needed, trim edges for a cleaner profile using your hobby knife.

Tips:

1. Don’t overcrowd the frame; use negative space to help details stand out.
2. Focus on realism: imagine where a vent, access port, or panel might exist in a sci-fi environment.
3. Avoid blocking areas reserved for lighting, decals, or structural mounts.

With your detail elements securely in place, it’s time to start painting! This step lays down your base color, applies a metallic top layer, and adds a bold caution-style accent stripe to give your frame that distinctive sci-fi utility look.

Materials Needed:

1. Base coat: Matte or eggshell grey house paint
2. Top coat: Metallic silver acrylic or water-based paint
3. Accent stripe: Yellow and black acrylic paint
4. Foam brushes or small rollers
5. Detail brushes for striping
6. Painter’s tape (1–2 cm wide)
7. Drop cloth or cardboard to protect work area
8. Rags or gloves

Instructions:

1. Apply the Grey Base Coat
2. Using a foam brush or small roller, cover the entire visible surface of the frame and detail elements with a flat grey paint.
3. Allow this to dry fully 2 to 4 hours ish.
4. Add a Metallic Silver Layer
5. Once the grey is dry, lightly brush metallic silver paint over the surface.
6. Focus on raised edges and corners for subtle variation.
7. This step helps establish a weathered metal foundation for later detailing.
8. Tape Off and Paint the Accent Stripe
9. we painted the 2.5 cm wide interior strips (the faux “inner window plate”) for our caution zone.
10. Useing painter’s tape to mark the top and bottom edges of the strip.
11. Paint alternating yellow and black diagonal stripes, keeping spacing consistent.
12. Tip: Lightly pencil in the angle before painting.
13. Allow to dry completely before removing tape.
14. Touch-Up as Needed
15. Clean up any smudges or bleed through with detail brushes.
16. Ensure silver isn’t covering the yellow/black caution stripe, but overlaps slightly elsewhere to blend the look.

Tips:

1. Don’t worry about getting the silver layer perfect; it will be weathered to simulate wear and tear at the end.
2. The caution stripe adds a pop of color and industrial authenticity. It’s a great detail that instantly says “space station” or “airlock.”

Before embedding your lighting into the decorative elements of your space station frame, we needed to carefully measure, cut, and prep the LED strips. This step ensures each segment is ready for clean installation inside the greebles and detail components in the following step.

Materials Needed:

1. RGB LED strip lights
2. Scissors or precision cutters
3. Ruler or measuring tape
4. Soldering iron and solder optional, if not using connectors
5. Wire 22 or 24 AWG for extensions
6. Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape
7. Marker for labeling segments
8. Small containers to keep cut segments organized

Instructions:

1. Measure Greeble Lighting Zones
2. Determine which detail elements like vents, panels, reflectors, etc. that will have internal lighting.
3. Measure the length each LED strip segment needs to be to fit inside those components.
4. Cut LED Strips to Size
5. Cut the strips only at marked cut points usually indicated with copper pads or scissor icons.
6. Use sharp scissors or snips to ensure clean edges.
7. Label and Group LED Segments
8. Use a marker to label each segment or place them in separate containers labeled by size and location.
9. This helps during installation and reduces confusion.
10. Strip and Prep Wire Leads
11. If your LED segments will need to connect to each other or to a controller, prep short wire leads.
12. Strip about 5mm of insulation from each end and pre tin with solder if soldering.
13. For flexible installation, consider using thin stranded wire.
14. Optional: Add Connector Pins or Solder Pads
15. If using connectors, attach pin headers or connectors as needed.
16. If you’re soldering directly later, pre tin the copper pads on each LED strip now to save time later.
17. Check Power & Directionality
18. mark or take note of the data flow direction on each piece.
19. Ensure your wiring plan supports this flow.

Tips:

1. Work in batches; measure and prep all segments before installing any.
2. Even if you're not soldering yet, pretinning pads now saves time and effort later.

This step transforms our previously prepped LED segments into glowing sci-fi panels by embedding them inside detail pieces. We’ll enhance their appearance using reflectors, diffusers, and mesh to mimic functional, futuristic lighting often seen in airlocks or control bays.

Materials Needed:

1. Prepped LED segments (from Step 7)
2. Reflective material; aluminum tape or foil
3. Diffuser material (thin plastic sheet, frosted acrylic, or sanded PETG)
4. Fine wire mesh
5. Hot glue gun
6. Paint; base Grey and Silver
7. Cutting tools; scissors, craft knife
8. Tape or glue for securing reflective and diffuser layers
9. Greeble housings or panel elements from Step 4

Instructions

1. Prepare the LED Cavities

1. Make shallow recesses inside your greebles where the LEDs will sit.
2. Add foil or aluminum tape to reflect light and boost brightness.

2. Secure the LEDs

1. Mount each LED strip in the cavity with hot glue or double-sided foam tape.
2. Route the wires neatly out the back or side slot.

3. Install Diffuser and Mesh

1. Cut a plastic diffuser to soften the light.
2. Mount a mesh layer above for added sci-fi styling and protection.

4. Paint the Greebles

1. Match the paint job to the main window frame:
2. Base coat of moon grey
3. Brushed on silver metallic highlights
4. Let dry thoroughly before handling.

5. Test Your Lights

1. Temporarily power up the LEDs to confirm lighting quality and appearance.

Tips:

1. Be patient with drying time between paint layers.
2. If your mesh is too shiny, consider painting it matte black or metallic grey.
3. Layering is key: Reflector then LED then Diffuser then Mesh.
4. Don’t glue mesh down until after painting if you want the mesh to remain unpainted.

With the core frame assembled and lit greebles prepared, it’s time to enhance the sci fi aesthetic by adding static detail components. These unlit greebles break up large flat areas, introduce industrial design elements, and help imagineer the illusion of a functional space station viewport.

Materials Needed:

1. Remaining rigid foam insulation pieces
2. Craft knife
3. Hot glue gun
4. Moon grey paint (same as base coat)
5. Silver paint for highlights
6. Sandpaper or sanding block (optional, for smoothing edges)
7. Ruler, pencil, or stencil for marking shapes

Instructions:

1. Plan and Sketch the Details

1. Using reference images or your imagination, sketch out sci-fi panel shapes, vent structures, or faux mechanical modules.
2. Ensure they will visually balance across the frame without obstructing your LEDs or mounting points.

2. Cut the Greebles

1. Use a craft knife to carve the pieces from the foam insulation.
2. Consider layering thinner pieces or cutting bevels to give depth and texture.
3. You can also notch corners for a weathered, industrial look.

3. Dry Fit and Arrange

1. Place the unpainted pieces on your frame to check spacing and orientation.
2. Make sure everything sits flush and complements the LED lit greeble.

4. Glue in Place

1. Once satisfied with the layout, hot glue the pieces.
2. Press down gently until the glue sets, avoiding warping the foam.

5. Paint to Match Frame

1. Apply the same base coat of moon grey as used on the main frame.
2. Highlight edges or corners with brushed silver paint to enhance depth.
3. Let dry thoroughly.

This step brings everything together; our LED lit greeble, our underlighting strip, and the final static detail pieces. we'll mount them securely, wire them neatly, and give our frame the immersive glow and some Sci Fi realism.

Materials Needed:

1. Completed frame from Step 9
2. LED lit greeble component from Step 8
3. Additional LED strip for bottom underlighting from Step 7
4. Static greebles from Step 9
5. Hot glue gun
6. Wire 22 to 26 AWG recommended
7. Soldering iron & heat shrink
8. Electrical tape or wire clips
9. Paint for any touch ups

Instructions:

1. Mount the Lit Greeble

1. Position the LED lit greeble onto the frame surface in your planned location.
2. Secure it using hot glue, ensuring wires are routed out the back or side.
3. Test the LED connections before final mounting, if possible.

2. Install Bottom LED Strip

1. Using the LED's from Step 7 fit along the bottom edge of the frame.
2. Apply aluminum tape or foil to the inside of the frame lip to reflect light downward.
3. Mount the LED strip in place with hot glue or adhesive backing.

3. Route and Hide Wires

1. Gather the wires from both the greeble and bottom LEDs.
2. Route them neatly along the back of the frame using hot glue and electrical tape.
3. Consider bundling wires together to reduce clutter.
4. If you're integrating with home automation, ensure cables lead to a connector port or terminal block as needed. We used one of the Static Greebles and cut a port into it.

4. Attach Static Greebles

1. Once all wiring is secure and tested, glue the remaining static greebles into place.
2. Use hot glue to attach them firmly to the outer surface of the frame.
3. Avoid obstructing LEDs or wiring paths.

5. Final Checks

1. Power up the frame to confirm that all lighting is functioning.
2. Do any minor paint touchups as needed.

Tips:

1. Use masking tape temporarily to hold wires while testing placement.
2. Test LED brightness in the actual lighting conditions of your room.
3. Consider labeling wire ends for easier connection during installation.

This short isn’t a build step but rather a visual highlight of how the external power connection is set into the frame.

This step adds the graphic parts, I've always loved the small details, it makes the project feel like it feel more real. We included designing, cutting, and preparing the vinyl decals before applying them to the frame.

Materials Needed:

1. Adobe Illustrator or any vector software
2. a vinyl cutter
3. Self adhesive vinyl we used black for high contrast
4. Dental tool, weeding hook, or fine tweezers
5. Clear transfer tape
6. Scissors
7. Squeegee or a flat-edged tool

Instructions:

1. Design the Decals

1. Use a art program to design the desired decals. In our build, we created:
2. A Weyland-Yutani Corporation logo
3. A "Viewport Airlock 1 and 2, and Viewport" label in bold sci-fi type

2. Cut the Decals

1. Load the vinyl into your cutter.
2. Send the cut file to the cutter using the appropriate cutting software
3. Let the cutter work its precision magic.

3. Weed the Decals

1. Carefully remove the excess vinyl, leaving only the design.
2. Use a dental pick or weeding hook to clean out any fine interior sections

4. Apply Transfer Tape

1. Cut transfer tape to size and place it over the decal.
2. Smooth out air bubbles using a squeegee or credit card edge.
3. Rub it well so the vinyl sticks to the tape when lifted.

5. Set Aside for Application

1. Store the prepared decals flat and clean until you’re ready to apply them in Step 13.

Tips:

1. Use high contrast colors like black on metallics or yellow on black for the visual impact.
2. If you don’t have a vinyl cutter, hand painting would work.
3. Save your Illustrator file, often, for future reuse or and becuase computers crash at the worst times.

Now that all the elements are prepared, it's time to bring your window frames to life with finishing touches and a final systems check.

Materials Needed:

1. Painted foamcore window frames (from previous steps)
2. Prepared vinyl decals (from Step 12)
3. Transfer tape
4. LED wiring harnesses
5. Home automation-compatible LED driver (we used Magic Home)
6. Isopropyl alcohol and lint-free cloth
7. Optional: dry brush, black/grey/brown acrylics for weathering

Instructions:

1. Add Final Weathering

1. Use a dry brush and black or dark grey paint to highlight edges and crevices.
2. Lightly scuff the frame surface with silver or gunmetal to simulate wear.
3. Add optional grime or streaking near corners and decals for realism.

2. Connect and Test the LEDs

1. Plug the LED connectors from your frame into your driver module.
2. Power it up and test the lighting and your home automation connection.
3. Check that both the internal lighting and underlighting strips function properly.

3. Apply the Decals

1. Clean the surface area to remove dust.
2. Carefully position your decals
3. Press down the transfer tape and slowly peel it back, ensuring the decal stays behind.

5. Set the Scene

1. Frame fully assembled. Run a final lighting demo and make sure everything looks ready for install.

Tips:

1. Don’t rush decal placement; alignment is key for professional results.
2. Use painter’s tape to temporarily hold decals in place before committing.
3. Layer weathering slowly; you can always add more, but it’s much harder to undo too much.

This short video focuses entirely on showcasing the design elements. Filmed to spotlight the detailed work before final installation.

With all three frames complete, it’s time for the final installation.

Prep the Wall and Windows

1. Use painter’s tape and plastic masking sheets to protect areas around the windows.
2. Mask off the window panes entirely to avoid overspray.
3. Apply your base wall colour, we used “moon grey” to unify the scene with the sci-fi look and feel.

Remove the Masking

1. Once dry, carefully peel back all painter’s tape and remove plastic sheeting.

Install the Frames

1. Position each frame onto its respective window.
2. Press gently so the friction mounting lips hold the frame snugly in place without screws, nails, or adhesive.
3. Connect the LED power cables to the external ports and test your home automation control.

Celebrate Your Spaceport View

1. Sit back and enjoy the new illuminated, futuristic viewport.
2. This is where Commander Bear beamed in his friend Coraline to join him in admiring the finished look—bringing this imaginative build to a satisfying conclusion.