Build Temporary Soundproof Wall Panels - Movable and Damage-free

Make a movable temporary soundproof wall between rooms. NO damage to doorway or walls. The soundproofing dampens conversations and music. Convenient and light enough to move and store. Customize to size and shape needed.

• This example makes 2 wall panels (1 wide and 1 narrow), which sit flush next to each other to fill an archway (5’w x 6’9”h) between rooms.
• Customize to fit almost any space.
• The archway can be opened and closed regularly by simply moving the panels.
• Temporary panels gently lean into the archway, and do NOT cause any damage to your house.
• Narrow panel is light enough for a tween to move it, almost as easily as a door.
• We used this during the Covid-19 shutdown so we would have quieter space for remote work in the living room (image 2 is view from Living Room side when closed), at the same time as the kids' virtual learning in the adjacent dining room (image 3 is view from Dining Room side when closed).

Not cheap to make, but less expensive, and more effective, than other options.

• (We first experimented with a type of thick felt cubicle wall and acoustic foam. While these reduce echo from sound reflection, they do not function as soundproofing, because sound passes through felt and foam.)
• The Audimute "Peacemaker" rubber soundproofing is the key to this soundproof wall build, as it reduces the sound passing through.

Total cost ~$300 in supplies

• This was a mother/daughter project out of desperation for quieter working spaces. We chose the light (but expensive) insulation boards as the supports so we could move it ourselves. There may be other ways to do this.

Time to build: About 10 days

• While measuring, cutting, and checking the fit only took us a couple days, more time was needed for the adhesives/glue to fully cure.

1. ($56) Audimute Peacemaker sound barrier-3.2mm. Size: 2’ x 25’ (recycled rubber soundproofing)
   • From Audimute: https://www.audimute.com/peacemaker-sound-barrier
2. ($33 x 3pieces= $99) Kingspan Insulation 2-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Unfaced Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation- R-10. This 2" thick version is used for stability, as it will be standing on its edges.
   • From Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Comm...
   • Note: Do NOT use the Home Depot Foamular insulation. It comes scored, and might snap instead of supporting the heavy soundproofing layer).
3. ($7 x 6 yards = $42) Craft Felt Fabric - 72'' wide x 6 yards. We used Walnut Brown – which is very plain brown, and not reddish brown like the online image at Joanne Fabrics. Use your preferred color. This felt sometimes goes on sale).
   • From Joann Fabrics: https://www.joann.com/craft-felt-fabric-72-solids...
4. ($40 x 2 gallons=$80) Loctite Power Grab all-purpose adhesive (or some other adhesive that does not dissolve foam. This is expensive, but selected for its low-odor). This adheres the Audimute Peacemaker to the Insulation foam, and the Felt to rough edges of the Insulation foam.
   • From Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-Power-Grab-Expre...
   • Can use the smaller self-propelled or caulking tube versions, but will need a lot, which may get more expensive.
5. School glue (at least a pint). This adheres the Felt to the smooth sides of the Insulation foam. (Use Loctite to secure felt to the rough edges).
6. For cutting foam: (Used all of these since it’s difficult to cut straight through the 2” thick foam)
   • Utility knife with sharp metal blade (for initial cut).
   • ($25) Ceramic 3” blade (for deeper cut without much risk of cutting yourself)
     • https://www.sliceproducts.com/product/manual-indus... (comes with rounded tip, but pointed tip may be easier for making cuts if you can get that option).
   • Metal putty knife (for the final cut through to the bottom – narrow and strong, but thin, metal blade. Can be sharpened).
7. Other accessories:
   1. Latex gloves (when using adhesive/glue)
   2. Large pieces of cardboard to rest the foam on for cutting
   3. T-square or yardstick to draw and guide long cuts
   4. Measuring tape/ruler
   5. Gallon zip-lock baggies (for the Loctite adhesive)
   6. Plastic spoon and/or plastic knife and/or plastic putty knife (to put the Loctite adhesive into the zip-lock baggie)
   7. Small disposable cups for school glue
   8. Paint stirring stick (to spread school glue in the middle)
   9. Assorted foam paintbrushes (to spread school glue at the edges)
   10. Push-pins to keep felt in place while cutting/gluing
   11. Damp paper towels for cleanup
   12. (Optional) 1 ¼” long metal screws (if want to attach Felt handles).

Review the steps that follow to determine the quantity of supplies you need from the supply list.

Measure the area you want to place a soundproof temporary movable wall

1. Measure interior archway size (ours was 5'w x 6'9"h - see image 1)
   • You will be putting one layer of foam panels inside the archway
2. Measure exterior archway size to the edges of the mouldings. If no mouldings, add at least 3" around the top and each side. (our was 5'6"w x 7'h -see image 2)

   • You will be putting a second layer of foam panels outside the archway (and the Audimute rubber soundproofing will be sandwiched between the insulation panels)

Plan your panels' sizing, and how to cut the exterior (larger) and interior (smaller) insulation boards to make them.

1. You will be making insulation panel sandwiches:
   • Each sandwich will include an exterior (larger) insulation board, soundproofing rubber in the middle, and a (smaller) interior insulation board glued together.
2. Determine how many Kingspan 4'w x 8'h insulation boards you need to create your wall. Plan how to cut them to make all the pieces for your insulation board sandwiches. (See image)
   1. This example needed three Kingspan insulation boards to make 4 pieces for the insulation board sandwiches. (Pieces 2 and 4 are cut from the same insulation board)
      • The first panel sandwich will glue together piece #1 and #3 (with soundproofing in between)
      • The second sandwich will glue together piece #2 and #4 (with soundproofing in between)
   2. For the internal pieces, cut them smaller than the archway by about 1/4" to 1/2" so they fit in very easily. They should not rub against the archway at all when put in next to each other. They need room to adjust for shifting and imperfect alignment after gluing.
      • The space will be covered by the external piece and soundproofing, so the size of the gap is not a concern.
   3. Important: The straight green double-line in the middle indicates where the two panel sandwiches touch and should be perfectly flush. To make them flush, use the smooth manufactured edges of the insulation panels here in the middle, and also for the bottom along the floor (do not cut these edges).
   4. Any cuts should be made only on the outside and upper edges (shown with dashed lines).

Note: If the insulation boards lean when standing up, be sure to orient them so the sandwiches lean *into* the archway (towards the internal pieces). The archway will then hold the panels up without needing additional support.

Determine the number of insulation boards you need to purchase for your size wall.

• You will also need enough Audiomute soundproofing to cover the larger (exterior) area of the archway.

Mark and Cut the Insulation Foam to Size for the exterior and interior foam pieces

Be sure you are cutting only the outside and upper edges, while using the smooth manufactured edges of the insulation board for the middle, and also for the bottom along the floor.

1. Write on the foam with a pen to keep track of the panel numbers and orientation (e.g., indicate top edge; side to glue to soundproofing - image 1).
2. Use a T-square to draw the lines and make a first cut in the foam with the sharp metal blade of a utility knife. (Image 2)
3. Deepen the cuts with the longer ceramic 'Slice" blade and/or metal putty knife. (Image 3).
4. Make multiple passes until you cut through (image 4). (Not recommended to use sawing motion (styrofoam mess), nor to snap off after initial scoring (can break badly)).

Check fit of your cut panels

1. Check the exterior panels: (image 1)
   • meet well in the middle with each other. If they are not perfectly flush together, check that a felt shim on the bottom would line them up better (to be added at the end);
   • And check that the exterior pieces cover at least 3" of the moulding.
2. Check your interior panels (image 2):
   • meet well in the middle;
   • fit easily in the archway without rubbing the archway sides or top;
   • and where they meet in the middle will line up with where the exterior pieces meet in the middle.

Now your panels are ready to glue together into sandwiches.

Start making the insulation and soundproofing sandwich. First glue the soundproofing layer to one of the exterior (larger) panels:

1. Measure and cut the soundproofing pieces to cover the Exterior panel (image 1)
2. Use Loctite to glue the soundproofing pieces to the exterior panel (wear gloves)
   • If using the gallon tub of Loctite: Cut a small corner off a gallon-size Zip-lock baggie (about 1/3" sized cut across the corner to make a hole - in lower-left corner of image 2, but hard to see)
   • Fill the baggie with the Loctite all-purpose adhesive (use a disposable spoon or plastic putty knife)
   • Squeeze the adhesive through the corner hole in baggie onto the insulation foam to make lines of adhesive
   • Place the Audimute soundproofing on top of the adhesive and press down to stick it on
     • Use spare pieces of foam to press down. This helps distribute your weight so you don't make dents. Flatter is better for gluing on the next foam layer.
   • Allow to cure as recommended (leave it lying down to cure)

Next, glue on interior panel

1. Use Loctite to glue the interior panel to the Audiomute soundproofing.
   1. Trace the internal panel on the Audiomute soundproofing with a pen (image 1 and 2).
   2. Add the next layer of adhesive inside the traced line (image 3)
   3. Place the interior panel on top of the adhesive and press down to stick it on. (image 4)
      • Make sure the smooth middle lines up well with the exterior panel
      • Important: Make sure the smooth bottom of the interior (smaller) panel is pushed up very slightly, so about 1/8" of the bottom of the exterior (larger) panel is exposed. This will allow the wall to tilt *into* the archway, so it can lean against the archway, and won't need additional support to stay up.
   4. Allow to cure as recommended.
2. Repeat process to make the second sandwich of interior and exterior panels with soundproofing in between.

Glue on the craft Felt

(While this Felt is not needed for soundproofing, it makes it easier to slide the panels if they have felt along the bottom. The felt slightly reduces sound reflection, and also looks better than the bare insulation panels.)

Pick one of the wall panel sandwiches

1. Measure the felt and cut to size to fit over the external panel and its top, outside edges, and the full bottom so it easily slides on the floor (but do NOT COVER THE MIDDLE EDGE). (image 1)
   
   1. Can use push-pins to hold Felt in place to measure and cut.
2. Cut the Felt corners so can glue them down with a small overlap (without folding). Have bottom Felt fold up the sides if needed (so bottom stays smooth).
3. Glue smooth panel face and edges with school glue. Use very THIN layer of glue or it will make white blotches in your felt.
   1. Do half of the panel at a time. Pour school glue on top half of the exterior panel (image 2)
   2. Spread glue with stirring stick to make thin layer (image 3)
   3. Use a foam brush to get thin layer of glue to the edges (and to apply to any smooth side edges), and to wipe any globs off the middle. (image 4)
   4. Press the Felt on to stick to the smooth panel and edges
   5. Repeat for the bottom half of the panel
   6. Use Loctite adhesive to adhere the Felt to the edges of the foam that had been cut by hand (the school glue will not hold on the rougher surface of these cut edges).
   7. Allow to cure.
4. Repeat this process to glue Felt onto the internal panel. (Do NOT cover the middle, and do NOT re-cover the bottom).

Repeat this process to cover the other wall sandwich with Felt.

Finishing touches on Soundproof wall (check fit, stability, shim, and optional handles)

1. Place the internal panel side of the wall sandwich into the arch and check fit and stability. The external panel and sound proofing should lean against the outside (mouldings) of the archway. This makes a seal to keep the sound out.(image 1)
2. If the panels lean into the arch correctly, they should stay upright without needing support (image 2). If they do not stay up, try a heavy chair to hold the panels up.
   • Make a shim if you see light between the two panels: Fold a small strip of felt in half (or thirds), and glue under the bottom corner. This should line up your two panels perfectly so there is no more space in the middle.
3. If you would like to add handles, cut strips of felt, and screw on with 1 1/4" screws. Drill pilot holes to prevent twisting the felt.

Your soundproof panels are complete!

Close the archway with the soundproof panels between the two rooms for quiet or privacy. Then re-open the archway by simply lift/sliding the panels away. (Image 3)

Caution:

Insulation foam is flammable, and can put out toxic fumes if melted or burned. Keep the foam and finished panels away from heat sources (including radiators and space heaters) that could accidentally melt or burn them.