Soldering Wires to PCB Mount Panel Hardware - Using PCB Mount Panel Hardware With No PCB

When our electronics projects need to get input or provide feedback to the user, we usually need to use some kind of panel hardware.

For example, toggle switches, potentiometers or input and output jacks. Often these aren't available in panel mount versions with proper solder tags, instead we have to use devices which are meant to be soldered to a PCB. Sometimes the PCB mount versions are also cheaper.

The good news is it is very possible to solder wires onto PCB mount hardware, and in this Instructable I will show you how I do it.

Wire:

We will need some wires to solder onto our device. For low current & voltage applications I have used both solid core and stranded network cable, as well as silicone insulated wires like those in the picture. The silicone wire can be purchased very cheaply from Aliexpress, and it's quite nice to work with.

Always make sure the wire you choose is suited to your application, paying particular attention to power handling requirements and protection against mechanical damage.

Other Tools and Materials:

• Solder - I used 0.5mm solder because it's what I had on hand, but anything up to .71mm would be fine
• Flux Pen (optional) - Not essential, but it makes the job easier
• Isopropyl alcohol (optional and not pictured) for cleaning the pins before soldering
• Heatshrink tube which will just fit over the soldered joint before shrinking
• Wire cutters & strippers - Automatic wire strippers like these Weicon ones make the job much quicker
• Helping hands - something to help hold everything
• Soldering iron - I solder these at 350 degrees

Cut the wires to the required length and strip approx. 5mm of insulation off the end to be attached to the device. Strip the other end as your application dictates. If you're using stranded wire, twist the ends so they are neat.

Hold the wires in your helping hands, tin the wires by using the soldering iron to apply a small amount of solder to the stripped ends. You don't need a lot of solder here, just enough to coat the end and keep it all held together (if stranded)

Clean the pins using isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on a Q-Tip or similar then give the pins on the device a good wipe with flux. The flux isn't essential, but it will make the job simpler. If you aren't using flux, at least make sure the pins are free of grease or other contaminants which will affect the solder.

Support the device, a rotary encoder in this case, in your helping hands or other clamping system

Place the tinned end of the wire against the device pin then apply heat using the soldering iron until the solder melts and reflows.

Hold this for a couple of seconds to ensure the pin is well heated and will form a good joint. Remove the soldering iron and hold the wire until the solder has solidified.

Repeat for each pin.

It is worth giving some consideration to the order you solder the pins - if some would be obstructed by wires on the others, then do them first.

Once all the pins are soldered, clean off any excess flux using IPA.

This isn't essential, but it will help insulate against shorts, and add mechanical stability to your joints.

Before you apply heatshrink, visually inspect your joints to make sure they are sound, and there are no short circuits, missed pins etc.

Cut the heatshrink into as many pieces as needed, one per pin, about 8mm in length.

Slide the heatshrink over the cable until the joint is completely covered.

Do this for all the pins, then use a cigarette lighter or hot air gun to shrink the heatshink tube down onto the joint, being careful not to melt anything.