Snowboard Bench

After you've worn out a couple of snowboards, it seems like such a waste to toss them. So re-use them by making them into a bench! I could not locate plans for a snowboard bench so I figured I'd write up what I learned while making this one. I made two mistakes along the way so you can learn from my errors :)

This design uses two snowboards - one for the seat and one for the back. Snowboards are not that stiff, so I used a ski under the seat to provide some stiffness (you could use a 2x4). If you need snowboards, check a ski shop if they have any damaged ones (usually chipped edges) or a thrift-shop.

If you are in the greater Seattle area, contact me - I run a ski recycling program and have plenty. I also make all types of things out of old skis. Check out my Etsy shop at http://www.skiartistry.com

Lumber:

4x4 8-ft long (preferably cedar but not a requirement)

2x4 6-ft long

Other:

2 snowboards

2 skis (as the bottom brace or you can use more 2x4)

Deck screws - 2 1/2 inches (or some type of exterior-rated screw)

Drywall screws - I used two lengths: 1 5/8 inches and 1 1/4 inches

Tools:

Circular saw - I used a cordless Ryobi, 71/4" (needs to be big enough to cut a 2x4)

Cordless drill - I primarily used a 3/16" drill bit for clearance holes

Chop saw (optional - but makes cutting the 4x4 much easier)

If you are cutting skis, I highly recommend also buying an abrasive blade (< $10)

The seat supports consist of two pieces of 2x4: a vertical support and a horizontal support. You need 2 of each.

The 16-inch horizontal support is used to hold the snowboards.

The 18-inch vertical support is used to hold up the horizontal support.

Cut the 2x4 into 2 pieces that are each 18-inches long. These are the vertical support.

With the remaining 2x4, cut it at a 15 deg angle, then make a 2nd cut at a 90 deg angle that is 16 inches on the long side. The horizontal supports have one edge that is 15 deg (or 75 depending on how you measure it) - that end will go into a notch cut in the main back supports.

We will start with the back supports.

Cut a 4x4 piece at a 15 deg angle. This is easiest using a chopsaw but you can probably do it with a circular saw using two cuts. (I used a chop saw on my work bench.)

Make a 2nd cut at 38" (preferably also at a 15 deg angle although it's really only critical for one end which will sit on the ground, giving the back a 15 deg slant.) I picked 15 deg because that was deemed most comfortable by ergonomic studies...

Repeat on the remainder of the 4x4 so that you end up having two 4x4, each is 38 inches long.

The next part is more tricky - notching the back supports so they will hold the horizontal seat support. There is a left and right back support - they have opposite notches! Notches go on the inside edge of the support. (If you are facing the bench, your left is the left side I'm speaking of - not the person seated.)

RIGHT-HAND, BACK SUPPORT

Measure up 18 5/8" from the bottom of the 4x4, front left side. Mark that location. Repeat that measurement on the back side. Draw a line using a straight-edge so that you have the 18 5/8" position marked.

Place a 2x4 so that the top of the 2x4 is at the 18 5/8" line, use the 2x4 as your straight-edge and draw a line below it. Now you have the area marked that you need to notch. Another way to check this is to place one of the horizontal seat supports on top of the 4x4 so that the 15 deg edge lines up with the back of the 4x4. This is where it will go once we cut the notch.

My mistake was I placed the 2x4 at the top of the mark, then draw a 2nd line too high. This notch is important because it sets the height of the seat from the floor (which will be 18" or so after accounting for the 15 deg slant).

Adjust your circular saw such that the blades protrudes down only the thickness of the 2x4 (which is 1.5"). Do a test cut on a scrap piece of 2x4 to see if it cuts it. It should barely cut it or come up every so slightly shy.

Now use the circular saw to make a series of cuts between the two notch marks. I spaced my cuts about 1/4" apart - it's a lot of cuts but makes the next step easier.

Once the cuts are done, you can shove a flat head screwdriver or a chisel into the cuts to break the wood free. If the notch is still rough, try using a hammer and chisel (or screwdriver) to knock out the rough spots.

LEFT-HAND, BACK SUPPORT

Repeat all the steps above but start by measuring your 18 5/8" length on the right side of the other 4x4. You want mirrored notches, the left one has a notch on it's right side; the right back support has a notch on it's left side.

(My 2nd mistake was to cut the notch on the same side of each back support, so they were not mirrored.)

Start with laying the horizontal seat support (16" long) onto the back support.

Mark two places with a pen where you want to have screws attach the two pieces.

Remove the horizontal seat support, and drill out the holes using the 3/16" drill bit.

Place the horizontal seat support back onto the back support, make sure the back slanted edge is aligned with the back of the 4x4 back support, then screw in a long 2.5-inch deck screw into each hole.

(You may want to drill a pilot hole first into the 4x4 support by placing the 2x4 horz seat support on it, drill through the holes, remove the seat support and finish the pilot hole.)

Next, you can lean the back support against a wall so that the slanted bottom of the 4x4 back support makes full contact. It will be slanted back 15 deg.

LEFT SIDE, BACK SUPPORT

Place one of the vertical seat support 2x4s against the right side of the horizontal seat support.

Mark two spots where you want to use screws for attaching it to the vertical seat support. The two pieces should be square such that the top of the horizontal support is flush with the top of the vertical support.

Remove the vertical support, drill out the holes using the 3/16" bit.

Place the vertical support back against the horizontal support (I used clamps or you can have a helper hold the two together). Use the 2.5" deck screws to attach the two pieces.

RIGHT SIDE, BACK SUPPORT

Repeat the steps above, but this time the vertical support will be on the left side of the horizontal seat support.

Since snowboards are not that wide, the seat isn't very deep. My snowboards were only 10-inches wide. Some are as much as 12-inches. Therefore, the vertical seat support and the back support are not that far apart when they reach the ground, making it easy to tip over. Some type of anti-tipping piece is needed.

I cut a pair of skis such that each tail was 24-inches long (you could use a 2x4 or even 1x4). That was perfect for preventing tipping but still allowing the bench to be slid back against a wall.

If you are cutting skis, you could use a hacksaw - it will take a long time. I'd recommend swapping your saw blade for an abrasive blade. Lowes sells them for under $10. It will cut through anything, but will make a stink because it is basically rubbing/burning through it.

Once your anti-tipping piece has been cut, place it next to the bottom of the back support and vertical seat support. Note that it should go on the outside of the support. So left side of left support, right side of right support.

Mark where you want to attach it - you should drill one hole for each (one for the back, one for the vertical leg). I used 1 5/8" drywall screws for attaching the ski to the supports.

(Another version of this would be to attach the ski to the underside of the back support and vertical support - this would also protect the wood from touching the ground if the bench will be placed outside.)

Are we there yet? Stop whining or I'll turn this Instructable around!

We need to cut a piece of wood or ski to act as the stiffener for the flimsy snowboard seat.

Position the left and right supports on the ground, they should be able to stand up on their own.

Place the snowboard you'll use for the seat on the supports and move the supports around to determine how far apart you want them. I arranged mine so that each was about 12-inches from the ends of the snowboard. Measure underneath between the supports so we know how long to make the stiffener.

Cut your stiffener. Skis are great for this because they are very stiff.

Now you have to figure out where you'll place the centerline holes in the snowboard for securing the stiffener. I tried to re-use the binding holes, although those are metal and tough to drill through. (Use your 3/16" bit again.)

Then transfer the hole pattern to the stiffener. I taped the ski onto the underside of the snowboard, then tried drilling through the holes with a 1/8" bit; removed the snowboard and finished the pilot holes. The ski needs pilot holes, a 2x4 maybe not.

I then secured the snowboard to the stiffener by screwing through the top of the snowboard into the stiffener using drywall screws (whatever length you like - I used 1 1/4" then used a grinder to take off the extra but honestly, no one will see or feel the underside so you could leave them).

(This is a good time to paint all the wood if you want to protect it from the elements. My bench is on a covered porch so I skipped this step. If you bought cedar, that is naturally rot-resistant so you could also skip painting.)

Now you can place the seat with the stiffener onto the supports.

Check the spacing - make sure you like it.

Mark two spots on the left side of the snowboard where you'll drill down into the horizontal seat support below.

Drill the clearance holes in the snowboard with the 3/16" bit.

Fasten the snowboard seat to the horizontal support using drywall screws (1 5/8" are a good length).

Repeat this for the right side of the snowboard with the right support.

As you do this, step back and check to make sure the supports are parallel. The front edge of the snowboard should cover all of the front of the seat support. There will be some seat support showing at the rear of the seat.

This is the easiest part - attaching the snowboard you want to use as the back of the bench to the supports.

Using clamps or a helper, position the snowboard against the supports. Align the top of the snowboard with the top of the supports, or if you prefer to hide the tops you could position it an inch or two higher.

Mark two holes locations on the left side of the snowboard where you want to secure it to the support. Repeat on the right side.

Remove the snowboard, drill the 3/16" clearance holes, then re-position the snowboard against the supports. Clamp it.

Using 1 5/8" drywall screws, fasten the snowboard to the supports.

I wanted to cover up the exposed front of the vertical supports so I cut more skis and attached them to the legs.

I also re-used the toe bindings and placed them on the top of the 4x4s as decorations.