Snake Game Console

Greetings everyone and welcome back. Here's something super fun.

Snake Game Console is a portable gaming console with a specially designed Raspberry Pi PICO 2 Driver Circuit and an RGB 64x32 P3 matrix panel.

We modeled the device in Fusion360, 3D printed the frame, and assembled it with the matrix panel and custom PCBs to make our own game console.

For the game, we created the traditional Snake game from scratch, with a simple Snake entity that can be controlled by four directional buttons. Randomly, a RED Dot appears on the matrix panel, and we may guide the snake to eat this random red dot using the Directional buttons. In the top right corner, we've also added a score marker, which keeps track of how many red dots our snake has consumed.

Furthermore, the game ends when a snake bites its own body.

This console has an onboard power source, which is a single 3.7V 2600mAh lithium ion cell that powers the device, making it a portable game system that we can take anywhere and start playing.

This instructables covers the entire build process for this project, so let's get started.

These were the materials used in this project:

1. Custom PCBs (Provided by PCBWAY)
2. Raspberry Pi PICO 2
3. RGB Matrix 64x32
4. IP5306 IC
5. 10uF Capacitors
6. USB Micro Port
7. 18650 Lithium Cell
8. 18650 Cell holder SMD version
9. Push Buttons
10. 3D printed Parts

We are using the 64x32 RGB matrix panel, which creates vivid text, graphics, and animations by arranging 2048 RGB LEDs in a 64 by 32 grid.

You can click the link below to read my brief introduction to this matrix panel.

https://www.instructables.com/64x32-Matrix-Panel-Setup-With-PICO-2/

The HUB75 interface, which uses a number of control pins, including RGB, address, clock, data latch, and output enable pins, is used to operate this panel.

The row-column scanning technique is made possible by the HUB75 link, which shifts a row of pixel data into a shift register. A demultiplexer is then used to determine which rows should be displayed. RGB channels, addressing pins A, B, C, and D, a clock signal (CLK), a latch signal (LAT), and an output enable (OE) pin are all included in the HUB75 connector.

We can also link several panels in pairs to create a chain by using the provided IN and OUT connections. Making sure the control solution (PICO 2) we are using can manage the additional data load of two or more displays is one of the difficulties of connecting multiple panels.

This matrix was produced by Waveshare, and more thorough details on the Matrix board may be found at the wiki page below:

https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RGB-Matrix-P3-64x32

The first stage in this project was to build a 3D model of the console, which has two handgrip-like components installed on the back side of the matrix. We then created a model of the special button board on one side.

The PICO Driver circuit, which is fastened to the Handgrip frame with four spacers, is positioned on the back side of the device.

Using three M3 inserts that are already on the matrix, the two Handgrip frame components are mounted from the back of the matrix panel. Each handgrip has three mounting holes that we added so that M3 bolts can be used to attach the handgrip to the matrix.

Four M2 screws are used to secure the button board to one side of the console.

Once the model was complete, we exported the mesh files for the left and right handgrips and four spacers, then used a 0.6mm nozzle to 3D print them in black PLA.

Using our PCB Cad software, we first create the schematic for the PICO Driver Board design. In order to connect the Raspberry Pi PICO 2 to the Matrix's HUB75 connector, our setup consists of of a CON 16 connector.

We connected the matrix's HUB75 pins (CON 16) to the PICO's GPIO pins in the following order: A to GPIO19, B to GPIO16, C to GPIO18, D to GPIO20, E to GPIO22, CLK to GPIO11, LAT/STB to GPIO12, OE to GPIO13, R1 to GPIO2, G1 to GPIO3, B1 to GPIO4, R2 to GPIO5, G2 to GPIO8, B2 to GPIO9.

We added a CON5 connector for buttons, and its four pins are connected to PICO's GPIO6, GPIO7, GPIO14, and GPIO15. GND is attached to CON5's fifth pin. Each GPIO will be pulled to GND by the button board that connects to this CON5, and PICO can detect this as a button press.

We also incorporated a power management IC, the IP5306, a fully integrated multi-function power management SoC, to power the entire setup.

It can provide steady 5V 2.1A using 3.7V as an input, which can be used to power any 5V device—in our instance, the matrix and PICO 2.

You can checkout IP5306 Datasheet for more info: http://www.injoinic.com/wwwroot/uploads/files/20200221/0405f23c247a34d3990ae100c8b20a27.pdf

Following the schematic setup, we exported the netlist and created the board file by referring to the CAD file's board layout. The PICO 2, button, lithium cell holder, and USB mini port are all on the top side of the board, while all of the SMD components are on the bottom.

Next, we get the schematic for the button board prepared. It has four push buttons, with the 4 and 3 pins of each button connected to GND. Additionally, there is a CON5 connector that is attached to each connector's 1 and 2 for GPIO and 3 and 4 for GND.

After setting up the schematic, we used the PCB editor to prepare the board file by aligning the buttons in the proper location and following exactly to the CAD file layout.

We made two PCBs for this project: the button board and the PICO driver board. Two orders were made: one for the button board and one for the PICO driver board.

The button board PCB was ordered in white solder mask and black silkscreen, while the PICO Driver PCB was ordered in blue solder mask and white silkscreen.

After placing the order, the PCBs were received within a week, and the PCB quality was pretty great.

Over the past ten years, PCBWay has distinguished themselves by providing outstanding PCB manufacturing and assembly services, becoming a trusted partner for countless engineers and designers worldwide.

Their commitment to quality and customer satisfaction has been unwavering, leading to significant growth and expansion.

You guys can check out PCBWAY if you want great PCB service at an affordable rate.

1. Using a solderpaste dispencing needle, we apply solderpaste—in this case, 63/37 Sn/Pb solderpaste—on each SMD component PAD to begin the PICO Driver assembly process.
2. Next, we use an ESD Tweeser to select and position each SMD component on the PCB.
3. Following component placement, the circuit is raised and set on the reflow hotplate, which raises the PCB's temperature from below to the melting point of solder paste. Solder paste melts and all SMD components are secure in place when the PCB hits a temperature of 190°C.
4. Following the reflow procedure, we flip the board over and use a soldering iron to position the 18650 Holder.
5. After the USB Micro port and Push Switch have been installed, we flip the board over and solder both of their pads.

We stop our assembly process and verify the power module circuits by placing the 18650 3.7V 2600mAh lithium cell in its cell holder in the correct polarity before proceeding with the PICO DRIVER assembly process.

The device will then turn on when we press the push button. We use our multimeter to measure the device's output voltage, which should be 5V. We may now add PICO 2 to the PCB and start the assembly process.

1. After positioning two female CON 20 header pins on the PICO 2 footprint and two male CON 8 header pins on the HUB75 connector footprint, we flip the board over and use a soldering iron to solder their pads.
2. Finally, we reinstalled the lithium cell in its cell holder and positioned the Raspberry Pi PICO over the CON 20 header pins.

The PICO DRIVER Assembly is completed.

In order to begin the button board assembly process, we first position the push buttons from the top side of the board, and then we solder their pads from the bottom side.

1. Using the wire harness that was included with the Matrix Kit, we first connect the PICO driver and Matrix. We soldered the positive wire of the wire harness to the 5V output of the PICO DRIVER and the negative wire to the GND of the PICO Driver.
2. Next, we attach the female wire harness connector to the matrix's male connector.
3. The HUB75 wire harness is then used to connect the matrix and PICO driver GPIOs. It is plugged into the matrix connector first, and then its other end is connected to the PICO driver.

We connected the Mattrix and PICO DRIVE first, then flashed the PICO using our previously converted Game of Life code that we had taken from an example sketch of the FastLED library to see if our configuration worked.

https://www.instructables.com/64x32-Matrix-Panel-Setup-With-PICO-2/

The remarkable cellular automaton known as the "Game of Life" was developed in 1970 by British mathematician John Horton Conway. Since it is a zero-player game, no extra input is required; rather, the game's progression is determined by its initial state.

Checkout more about game of life from here-

https://playgameoflife.com/

The game will start with a random configuration and restart with a new random configuration after it halts and yes this setup is Turing complete.

We are using the Adafruit_Protomatter library here, which you need to install on your Arduino IDE before using this code.

By aligning the mounting holes of the two 3D-printed handgrip frames with those of the matrix, we can now attach them to the back of the matrix. Six M3 bolts are then used to connect the frame and matrix together. We can easily connect the frame and matrix with an M3 bolt thanks to the M3 brass inserts that have been added to the back of the matrix.

The button board is then positioned from the front of the console, and four M2 screws are used to secure it in place.

1. Now, we use four 3D-printed spacers to position the PICO DRIVER on the back side of the console over the 3D-printed frame.
2. We put the PICO driver over the four spacers that are placed over the mounting hole on the frame, and then use M3 screws to secure the PICO driver to the frame.

1. Wiring the DPAD Button PCB and PICO DRIVER board together is the final stage in the assembly process.
2. To accomplish this, we first add five connecting wires to the button board's CON5 port, and then we connect each wire to the PICO DRIVER in the correct pin order.
3. The button board's UP pin is connected to GPIO7, DOWN pin to GPIO6, LEFT pin to GPIO15, and RIGHT pin to GPIO14.
4. Once the wires between the PICO DRIVER and the button board are connected, we carefully tuck the extra wire length within the frame and secure it with a small bit of HOTGLUE.

The SNAKE GAME CONSOLE ASSEMBLY is now complete.

Here's the main code we used in this project and its a simple one.

This code is divided into seven sections, which are the following:

Library and Pin Definitions- which includes the Adafruit_Protomatter Library to control the RGB matrix along with the pins for the RGB signal, address lines, clock, snake length, latch and output enable, as well as buttons, are also defined here.

Matrix Initialization and Snake Structure- Here, the matrix is set up with width, height, RGB pins, address pins, clock, latch, and output enable. the snake structure Defines the structure for the snake's segments, initializing snake length, direction, colors, food position, score, and game over flag.

Place Food Function- Places food on the matrix, ensuring it doesn't overlap with the snake's position.

Setup Function- Initializes the matrix and button pins. Positions the snake in the middle of the screen and places the initial food.

Drawing Functions- drawScore displays the score on the screen. drawGameOver displays the "Game Over" message and the score.

Game Logic Functions- checkGameOver checks if the snake collides with itself, setting the game over flag. resetGame resets the game variables and initializes the snake position.

Main Loop- Controls the main game logic, including snake movement, food placement, score updates, drawing, and game-over checks.

The loop checks for button inputs to control the direction of the snake, updates the snake's position, handles screen wrapping, checks for food consumption, and updates the display. If the game is over, it displays the "Game Over" message, waits for 5 seconds, and then resets the game.

Here is the end result of this long but straightforward build: a functional handheld snake game console that functions perfectly. It has an integrated battery that enables the user to carry it around and play games while on the go.

We can control Snake's movements with the DPad. The objective is to consume as much food or red dots as possible; the score mark position in the upper right corner of the screen indicates our progress.

Snake can cross display boundaries; however, if he inadvertently cuts himself during gameplay, the game ends and you are presented with a red screen that reads "Game over" along with your score. The game will restart and continue after five seconds of waiting.

By hitting the PUSH button on the console's back, the entire device can be switched on or off.

We can use a MicroB cable and a standard 5V smartphone charger to charge the lithium cell. The status LED will continue to flicker during charging; however, it will stop blinking and remain on after the battery is fully charged.

This project was successful overall, and I won't be focusing on a V2 anytime soon.

The Snake Game Console can run virtually anything, including games. To run games, we need to build them ourselves or port already-existing games, but that is a topic for another time.

Please let me know if you require any additional assistance; all the documents, files, and code are included in the article.

In addition, we appreciate PCBWAY's support of this project. Visit them for a variety of PCB-related services, such as stencil and PCB assembly services, as well as 3D printing services

Thanks for reaching this far, and I will be back with a new project pretty soon.

Peace.