SmartFrame

Step into a world of light and color with my Smart RGB Frame — a vibrant DIY project designed to turn ordinary LED panels into a mesmerizing rainbow masterpiece!

Created and inspired for the Colors of the Rainbow Contest, this project celebrates the full spectrum of color by combining a custom 3D-printed frame with a programmable 16×32 WS2812B LED matrix. Powered by an ESP32 microcontroller, this frame lets you unleash dazzling animations, smooth color fades, or dynamic rainbow effects — right on your desk or wall.

Whether you want to display animated patterns, scrolling text in every hue, or a calming gradient that fills your space with light, this project is all about bringing the rainbow to life in a modern, creative way.

Combining 3D printing, Wiring, and the endless magic of addressable LEDs, the Smart RGB Frame is the perfect blend of technology and art — and a bold tribute to the brilliant shades that make up our world.

Hardware & Electronics

2 × 16×16 WS2812B LED Matrix Panels

(or 1 × 16×32 if you have it as a single piece)

1 × ESP32 Development Board

(or any compatible microcontroller with enough power for WS2812B control — e.g., NodeMCU, Wemos D1 Mini if using ESP8266, but ESP32 is recommended for animations)

5V 5A Power Supply

(High enough current for ~512 LEDs — aim for ~30W, more if you plan full brightness)

Female DC Barrel Jack or Screw Terminal Adapter

(for safely connecting your power supply to your circuit)

330 Ω Resistor

(to protect the data line — optional but highly recommended)

1000 µF 6.3V or higher Capacitor

(to prevent voltage spikes — also strongly recommended for WS2812Bs)

Jumper Wires & Breadboard (optional for prototyping)

Heat Shrink Tubing or Electrical Tape (for safe connections)

Frame & Build Materials

3D Printed SMART RGB Frame

(Print your custom frame using PLA or PETG — see Step 1 for files & instructions)

M3 Screws or Small Mounting Hardware (if you want to secure the panels or controller inside the frame — optional)

Double-Sided Tape, Hot Glue, or Zip Ties (to help hold the LED panels and wires in place)

Tools

3D Printer (or a print service if you don’t have one)

Soldering Iron & Solder (for connecting wires to the panels and controller)

Wire Cutters & Strippers

Small Screwdriver (if using screws or terminals)

Software

Arduino IDE (or PlatformIO if you prefer)

Adafruit NeoPixel Library (or FastLED if you decide to switch)

Tinkercad (for customizing your frame — optional)

Optional

1. Diffuser material (like frosted acrylic or parchment paper) if you want softer light.
2. Mounting brackets or wall hooks if you want to hang it.

In this step, you’ll 3D print the main enclosure that will hold your 16×32 WS2812B LED matrix panels, your ESP32, and any other electronics you need.

here's the details of what your printing:

1. A rectangular outer wall that forms the frame.
2. An inner recessed cavity where a frosted acrylic panel or a sheet of canvas screen will sit.
3. A slot on the bottom were you can take off the back wall for access to the electronics.

Use some fine sandpaper to carefully smooth out any rough edges or surfaces on your 3D-printed parts or frame. This will help them fit together cleanly and look professional. After sanding, use a black permanent marker to color any areas that look scratched, unfinished, or white from sanding — this gives your project a polished, finished look.

Apply a small amount of strong super glue to the edges that connect the two main parts of your frame. Carefully align them and press them together until they bond securely. Hold them in place for a few minutes or use clamps if needed. Make sure the joint is straight and fully bonded.

Place your assembled frame on a piece of Styrofoam board. Use a pencil or marker to trace the inside opening of the frame onto the foam. This traced shape will be your template for cutting out the inner backing panels.

Using a sharp craft knife or hobby knife, carefully cut out the traced shape from the Styrofoam. Take your time and make smooth cuts to ensure the foam fits neatly inside the frame.

Repeat the cut to make a second identical Styrofoam insert — you’ll need two layers for proper depth. In one of these pieces, cut out holes or channels for routing the cables from your RGB panels. This helps keep everything tidy inside the frame.

Glue a female barrel jack power connector onto the frame. Make sure it’s positioned where it’s easy to plug in your power supply, but won’t interfere with the panels or foam inserts.

Place your RGB LED panels into the frame. Position them as close as possible to the top opening so they shine through your canvas, but make sure they don’t stick out or press against the canvas too much.

Wire the Power Connector

Solder or attach two wires to the barrel jack: one for +5V and one for GND (ground). These will supply power to your LED panels and the ESP32 board.

Connect Power and Signal Lines

Connect the +5V wire from the barrel jack to the +5V input on the LED panels and the VIN (5V) pin on the ESP32. Connect the GND wire to the GND on both the panels and the ESP32. Finally, connect the signal cable from the LED panel’s data input to pin 5 on the ESP32.

Use heat shrink tubing or electrical tape on all exposed wire connections. This prevents accidental shorts and keeps your wiring neat and safe inside the frame.

Lay your canvas sheet over the front of the frame. Use your fingers to feel where the cavity edges are underneath. Lightly cut along the cavity outline with a craft knife to create an opening that matches the frame.

Once you’ve made the first cut, go over it again to make sure there are no leftover threads or fabric strands. This ensures a clean, smooth opening for the lights to shine through.

Apply a thin line of super glue around the inside edge of the cavity. Be very careful not to get glue on the LED panels — only the frame edges should have glue.

Stretch the canvas sheet tightly over the frame and press it down into the glue. Make sure there are no wrinkles or sagging. Hold it in place until the glue sets.

Final Touch-Up

Once everything is dry, use sandpaper and a black marker again to touch up any edges that still look rough or unfinished. Make sure the frame looks neat and professional from every angle.

1. Connect your ESP32 to your computer using a USB data cable.
2. Go to https://install.wled.me/ in your browser and click “Install”.

Select your ESP32 from the device list (if it doesn’t show up, make sure your cable supports data or you have the right drivers)

1. Hold the BOOT button on your ESP32 and click “Install” to start flashing.
2. After it installs, enter your Wi-Fi name and password when prompted.
3. Click “Visit Device” to open WLED on your ESP32.

When you see the WLED controls, click “Config” to open the settings.

click 2d configuration.

Enter these exact settings you see into your WLED configuration.

Go back to “Config” and click “WiFi Setup”.

Enter an easy-to-remember name in the Client IP — this is what you’ll type in your browser to access your controls.

Last but not least, the easiest step... HAVE FUN!!!