Small Floating Shelf With Hidden Storage

by MattInDetroit in Living > Organizing

3013 Views, 65 Favorites, 0 Comments

Small Floating Shelf With Hidden Storage

BetterSplitView.png
SplitView1.png
shelf1.png
20180912_211854.jpg
sketch1.png
sketch2.png
sketch3.png
sketch4.png
sketch5Dimensions.png
sketch6.png

My wife wanted a floating shelf for our remodeled bathroom. (Pinterest strikes again).

I don't get why many of the examples on Pinterest, here, and here have the shelf permanently mounted into the stud, and sometimes mounted before the surface is finished. Perhaps its just simpler?

After further investigation I found ones like this one interesting with the hidden storage. But when sliding the storage in and out, you can disturb the items stored atop.

My version is removable from the wall and has hidden storage within. When pulling the hidden storage out, the top of the shelf stays in place so none of the items atop the shelf are disturbed. The inside is framed so items stored within don't get stuck/crushed when closed back into the shelf.

If you're curious on the thought process, I attached my childish sketches.

This shelf was sized to fit over our decorative towel bar, so I kept the depth as minimal/reasonable.

Summary:

  • 2x2 frame
  • 3/4" or full extension drawer slides
  • 1/2" plywood top, attached to top of frame.
  • Open plywood box attaches to drawer slides.
  • (optional) 3 additional 1/2" plywood sides. Prevents stored items from getting caught in track. The back is necessary regardless.
  • 1/2" plywood for the sides and bottom panel.
  • All attached w/ pocket holes.
  • Keyholes for mounting to wall. (Instead of permanently securing the frame into studs)

Parts:

  • 2x2 wood (for the frame)
  • 1/2" plywood
  • Coarse pocket hole screws, preferably 3/4" (but I seem to only be able to find coarse in 1")
  • 4" drawer slide set
  • Stain
  • Edge tape
  • Clear polyurethane
  • Toggle bolts (or drywall mollies)

Tools:

  • Pocket hole joinery
  • Table saw
  • Radial arm saw (optional)
  • Screw driver
  • Drill and drill bits
  • An iron (for applying the edge tape)
  • Brushes (for applying the stain and polyurethane)
  • Sanding block or electric sander

Build Frame

20180923_170838.jpg
20180923_170911.jpg
20180923_171105.jpg
20180923_173537.jpg
20180923_173542.jpg
20180923_174644.jpg
20180923_174825.jpg

Measure the towel bar. Our (decorative) towel bar is 20 1/2". So all the dimensions that follow will be based off that. You'll may adjust the dimensions as desired.

The desired size of the shelf I designed is 24 1/2" wide x 4 1/2" deep x 3" tall.

Using a radial arm saw (or the table saw) cut the following pieces from the 2x2 pine.

  • One piece 20 1/2" long, to use as the back support
  • Two pieces 1 1/2" long, to use as support arms

Cut Key Holes

20180923_165544.jpg
20180923_165604.jpg
20180923_172346.jpg
20180923_180525.jpg
20180923_180527.jpg
20180923_172039.jpg
20180923_180707.jpg
20180923_182251.jpg
20180923_182420.jpg
20180923_182617.jpg

Practice cutting the key hole on some scrap wood.

When I built this shelf, I used a rotary tool with a plunge router attachment and the key hole bit (as you can see from the pictures). However, I learned on another project, it is much easier to predrill the entry hole and use the rotary tool with a cut out attachment (rather than the plunge router). Cheaper too. In a later project I built a jig to ensure the rotary tool remained straight. (A router table is even better, but didn't have one at the time)

Determine if the desired installation location of the shelf will have a stud available. If it does you should let this influence where you make the keyholes for more secure installation.

When I built mine I only used two key holes at the same height. In hindsight, I should have added as least one additional keyhole at a slightly different height. This would help keep the shelf more flat and secure against the wall.

Cut Pocket Holes on Short Arms

20180924_211201.jpg
20180924_212522.jpg

Cut two pocket holes on each of the two short support pieces.

Assemble Frame

20180924_212815.jpg
20180924_213500.jpg
20180924_214103.jpg
20180924_214223.jpg

Attach the short 2x2 arms to the longer 2x2 using pocket hole screws.

A corner clamp is helpful to get them lined up nicely in a 90 degree angle. You can also use the corner formed from your table saw and edge guide.

Check Width of Drawer Slide

20180924_220636.jpg
20180924_220701.jpg

My measurements take into account the thickness of the drawer slide. My drawer slide is 1/2" thick.

Cut Side Panels

20180925_202419.jpg
20180925_203612.jpg
20180925_203853.jpg
20180925_204106.jpg
20180925_211533.jpg
20180925_211540.jpg

Cut the side panels out of the 1/2" plywood, using the table saw.

You'll need the following pieces:

  • Two sides at 4 1/2" x 2".
  • Two pieces (for the top and bottom) at 22 1/2" x 4 1/2"
  • One front piece at 21 1/2 x 2" (this might actually need to be 21 9/16" x 2". 1/2" plywood isn't always 1/2" thick)

Cut Pocket Holes on Panels and Install to Frame

20180925_213159.jpg
20180925_214511.jpg
20180925_214508.jpg
20180925_214631.jpg
20180925_214747.jpg
20180925_215015.jpg
20180925_215202.jpg
20180927_202358.jpg
20180927_203306.jpg
20180927_203309.jpg
20180927_204059.jpg
20180927_204102.jpg
20180927_204123.jpg
20180927_204343.jpg
20180927_205054.jpg
20180927_205759.jpg
20180927_210009.jpg
20180927_210348.jpg
20180927_211824.jpg
20180927_211828.jpg
20180927_211832.jpg
20180927_212724.jpg

Cut pocket holes along the sides as pictured, and attach the bottom, front, and the sides together.

I tested out the drawer slide fit to make sure things fit correctly.

Sand the frame as needed.

The top piece will be installed on the frame (not directly to the front or sides). Make pocket holes to attach the frame to the remaining top piece.

Sand the panels as needed.

Install Drawer Slides

20180927_214947.jpg
20180927_215121.jpg

You'll need to partially disassemble the drawer slides to expose the mounting holes.

Attached the outer part of the drawer slide to the 2x2 support arms. You'll want it to the forward edge of the support arm, but you'll need to play with the height to get it lined up correctly (so that the box closes nice and flush).

Assemble Top Piece

20180927_223047.jpg
20180927_223102.jpg
20180927_223111.jpg

Install the remaining extension piece of the slider onto the outer box of the drawer. You'll want it lined up correctly, so that when it is slid into place the drawer slides smoothly and closes flush.

Cut and Install Divider (Inner Storage)

20180928_135109.jpg
20180928_135146.jpg
20180928_135856.jpg
20180928_141637.jpg
20180928_141646.jpg
20180928_141704.jpg
20180928_142204.jpg
20180928_142211.jpg

You're basically making an inner 3-sided frame to install within the drawer box. This will keep stored items from falling out the back, and prevent them from getting crushed when the drawer is slide closed.

You'll need to cut the following pieces on the table saw:

  • One piece at 16 5/8" x 2"
  • Two pieces at 2 9/16" x 2"

Note: I'm pretty sure I had to adjust these dimensions on the fly to get everything to fit correctly.

Cut pocket holes as pictured, and attach the pieces to make a three sided frame.

Now cut additional pocket holes on the frame (as pictured) to so that you can attach it to the bottom of the drawer.

Apply Edge Tape and Stain

20180928_145738.jpg
20180930_165009.jpg
20180930_165027.jpg
20180930_165044.jpg
20180930_170823.jpg
20180930_183425.jpg
20180930_183437.jpg
20180930_183555.jpg
20180930_224744.jpg
20180930_224752.jpg
20180930_224759.jpg
20180930_224805.jpg
20181002_183449.jpg
20181002_183509.jpg
20181002_183524.jpg
20181002_183528.jpg
20181002_185241.jpg
20181002_185253.jpg

I recommend you apply the edge tape FIRST, and than stain.

I stained mine first, and than decided "hey, maybe I should buy and try some of that fancy edge tape". It is much nicer looking than a raw, layered plywood edge.

Follow the directions for the edge tape. Applying with an iron. (An old iron, the iron from your utility room).

Trim the excess.

Sand again, so the surfaces are smooth.

Apply two or more coats of stain as desired.

Apply coats of polyurethane to help protect the surfaces.

Assemble

20181003_200320.jpg
20181003_200446.jpg
20181003_202646.jpg
20181003_211959.jpg
20181003_222608.jpg
20181003_212454.jpg
20181003_213541.jpg
20181003_213815.jpg
20181003_213820.jpg
20181003_213828.jpg
20181003_213836.jpg
20181003_213854.jpg
20181003_213912.jpg
shelf3.png
shelf2.png
SplitView2.png

Place the drawer into the shelf.

If you, earlier, determined there was a stud available at your mounting location drill a pilot hole and insert the screw for the first key hole.

For the remaining mounting points, you should also drill pilot holes. Drill a larger hole to accommodate the toggle bolt (or mollies if you must). Insert the toggle bolt with screw, and tighten until secure, but leave enough of the screw head exposed for insertion into the keyhole. (if molly, insert he molly first. Than insert the screw, and tighten, but still leave enough of the screw head exposed for the keyhole).

I had to "adjust" one of my keyholes to get the shelf level. Wood putty should work, but I added a screw.

It is small shelf, over a small decorative towel bar. Leading my wife to question "why is the storage so small?".

We're both happy with it overall. But... mine just had the two mount points, I'll be adding a third at a slightly different height, to prevent it from leaning away from the wall when the drawer is opened.

I may be building a larger version for over the bath towel bar.