Slam a Winner Upgrade

Items you will need:

1 16.4ft LED Strip with controller and Power supply

1 Rayex LB2H relay from SMART part number 32175 $4.22 each

1 Solid State Relay (Standard IceBall Relay) part number E02111 $25.16

You could just use two Rayex relays, as they are cheaper.

One 24 volt power supply, or two 12 volt power supplies.

Wire

T Connects

Male Connectors

Heavy Duty Double Sided Tape

Tools:

Drill with 1/2 drill bit

Tape Measure

Pencil

Philips Screwdriver

Crescent Wrench

And take it apart

6 screws 3 on each side of the game. Philips screw driver that takes the biggest part of the game off. The plastic should just slide out.

Open the front door for easier access taking the plastic off.

Back door comes out also with the ball chute

Most would use their fingers getting this off.

Use your pencil, and mark where the ball is going to be rolling on the bottom play field. You don't want your LED strip getting run over by the ball so marking it with PENCIL is probably best.

The LED is going in between the two sets of circles. So not on the edge or the very middle.

So you need only to draw two lines with you pencil. Rotate the field around so you get a good circle.

This set is important, you need to know where the ball is going to be rolling after you take the play field off. That is all you need, sorry if you couldn't understand the instructions, I was confusing myself trying to make it sound easy, which it is!

The screw on the bottom of the play field, or pin. So the game knows where the wheel is, needs to be marked on the bottom. Laying LED Strip under this has a potential to grab and mess up your creation.

I can't remember how I did this, almost looks like a free handed it, which worked! Thankfully...

This step might be optional for you. See step 11

One 1/2" hole wasn't big enough so I slotted it slightly to get the other part of LEDs through easier.

Well the sticky tape on the LEDs doesn't work so well for me, or curving the LEDs.

Try and put the LEDs facing the top, the white paint reflects enough to fill both holes with light.

Staple gun will be needed for this step.

Tip: Have the LEDs plugged in, on white. You can turn the brightness down to save your eyes, but the staple gun we used was just wide enough for the LEDs. If you hit the strip you will be able to tell if your shorting out some or not. Since White uses all 3 Red green and blue.

Now, I put the LEDs there in the picture to light up the whole game. You can put them more in the back but I didn't want to see the bouncing lights off the wall from the strip. Also we only have a few inches of slack.

You can't use staples on the upward part. The side is metal. Unless you can, then go for it.

Heavy duty tape and staples. You don't need staples. But they help.

You might need to take the header sign off. It its stapled. So with you staple gun you can staples it back up when your done.

Ours turns off the main light, to give the LEDs more of an effect.

You basically extend one of the AC wires. That's all your doing. Two wires together run to the bottom of the game to the relays. This wire will be on the normally closed half of the relay. Once the relay turns on. The light turns off. Easy.

You've reached the end! Wow! Hopefully those pesky staples didn't damage to much! This is the spot where you LED controller can go, if you didn't want to drill those holes.

I first used the light bulb for the button to control the lights.

But that light turns off to soon and turns the leds back off to soon.

I hooked it in to the light above the ball chute. You can find that wire here, your wire color may vary.

These wires will go to the standard Solid state relay

Its all in the picture. I hope you can understand how it is. I am not the best at making electronic blueprints, or Microsoft Paint. Once that is all wired up. Give it a play!

The fun part!

Well this game is easier than others.
Hope the tutorial was okay. Leave a comment if you have any questions or email me.