Skateboard to Wind-Powered Skateboard

Do you want an upgrade to your skateboard experience? Did you ever want to windsurf but are too far from an ocean or lake? Embark on an exciting journey into the realm of speed with this Instructable that turns an old mountain skateboard into a wind-powered land windsurfing board.

(x1) Mountain Skateboard (my was used and a little rusty but here is a link to buy new board)

(x2) Stiff Bushing (Link to buy)

(x1) Sheet of Steel (5in x 6.5in x 0.1in)

(x1) Mast Foot

(x1) Windsurfing Sail (I used a 4.2 sail because that is what I had but any size should work)

(x1) Drill

(x1) Metal drill bit 1/2 a inch in diameter

(x1) Blow Torch

(x1)Pittsburgh 6 in. Straight Jaw Sheet Metal Seamer (Link to buy)

(x1) Protractor

(x1) Helmet and any other safety equipment you want to use

In order to connect the sail to the skateboard, construct a piece that holds them together. To do this, I first 3D modeled the piece in Tinkercad. I then manufactured what I modeled out of the steel sheet.

Referring to the image, the length for A to C and B to D is 5 inches and the distance from A to B and C to D is 2.5 inches long. The angle ABF and the angle CDE are both 35 degrees. The length from F to E is also 5 inches. The length from D to E and B to F is 4 inches long. The distance from center of the holes on the top plate is 2.5 inches from the lines A to B and C to D. The holes' diameter is a half an inch. The distance between each hole's center on the top plate is 1.25 inches. The distance from the furthest hole's center to the line A to C is 0.75 inches. The distance from the closer hole's center to the line B to D is 0.5 inches. There are four holes on the bent plate. They also have a half inch diameter. The width between the two sets of the holes' centers is 2.5 inches. The distance from the holes' centers to the lines D to E and B to F is 1.25 inches.

To manufacture the attachment, drill the 6 holes using a half inch diameter metal drill bit.

Use a blowtorch to heat the metal sheet to make it pliable. Use the Pittsburgh 6 in. Straight Jaw Sheet Metal Seamer and a protractor to bend the metal to the 35 degrees.

I used a mountain skateboard instead of a regular skateboard because it has larger pneumatic tires and a wider deck for more stability and control at higher speeds. It is important to replace the bushings for stiffer ones to provide support for the additional weight of the sail.

There are two bushings on each truck, four total on a skateboard (click on the diagram above). To replace the bushings, unscrew the bolts holding the skateboard trucks. Disassemble the trucks by unscrewing the kingpin nut and remove the axle with the wheels along with the bottom bushings. Replace the old bushings with the newer, stiffer bushings. Then tighten the kingpin nut, and reattached only the back truck.

Diagram from: https://www.lucidgrip.com/blogs/news/skateboard-trucks-and-parts

With the front truck still removed, align the holes in the bent side of the metal plate to the holes in the skateboard and the truck. Reattach the truck by putting the bolt through the bent metal sheet, skateboard, and truck and tighten the nuts.

Attach the foot mast by unscrewing its attachment nut. Insert the foot mast screw into either hole on the top part of the plate. The different holes are for different sizes of sails. The hole farther from the board is for smaller sails and the closer hole is for larger sails. I put my 4.2 sail into the farther hole. Flip the nut upside down and screw it on the foot mast screw. You will need to flip the nut upside down because a flat connection will be more secure. Slot the windsurfing sail into the foot mast and attach it with the mast foot's pins.

Now you have an awesome wind-powered skateboard. Make sure you wear a helmet and any other protective gear to make you safe. Have fun!